Hey photographers, if you're looking for detailed hands-on reviews, explanations and demonstrations of cameras, this may be the place. Here you will find honest and detailed camera reviews, along with some how-to videos and the occasional travel review. I strive to provide what one viewer called "pleasant impartiality". In my reviews I examine and demonstrate all of a camera's controls, features and menus so you can see what it's really like to use it. I show you what other reviewers only talk about, along with lots of sample photos and videos. I don't sit at my desk - I go out and take photos. One more thing - as long as your comments are relevant and civil, I will read and reply - I'm always happy to interact with my viewers. In previous careers I produced and directed TV, wrote reviews for daily newspapers in Toronto and developed interactive television applications and services.
No, my friend! What you demonstrte is most EMPHATICALLY not ETTR! ETTR, BY DEFINITION, is a technique limited to BASE ISO... As soon as ISO is increased - which is what you did - whatever you are doing is NOT ETTR! The point of ETTR is to get as much LIGHT on the sensor as possible without blowing important highlights in order to make good use of the sensors dynamic range... The ONLY way to increase light capture by the sensor is to increase aperture or slow the shutter speed... ISO plays no role here! Clearly you are NOT being honest about ETTR and from the comments your audience doesn't know enough about to realize that you are talking nonsense! Sorry, but it has to be said!
A pleasure to read your kind words. Yes, still happily riding my sporngy wonder seat. Wouldn't ride without it, take it travelling when we go cycling in Europe.
I bought mine online not realizing that it didn't have an ext mic input jack until it arrived & I couldn't be bothered shipping it back for a refund. A bit of a disappointment as I like to use a Lav Mic for vlogging. I do have an audio recorder that I can use though. Apart from that downside it's a great little camera.
I have a fair amount of Nikon equipment, DSLR and Mirrorless. I was checking your channel to see if there is a way to mute a video that is recorded with sound on the D850. It is sad that camera photography is dying. I don't think phones will ever replace cameras for versatility or creativeness. So many things of my youth are becoming archaic or legislated against. Anyway, I have enjoyed your reviews and will continue to use my equipment until I'm dead or they are.
Muting a video recorded with sound is usually done as a playback setting on your playback device or in editing. On the camera, there is a playback sound control - just turn it to the lowest (off) setting. While yes, many of the devices we purchased in the previous millenium are obsolete and no longer manufactured, I'm trying to think of those that have been eliminated by legislation other than incandescent lightbulbs, which I was happy to see go.
Great work! This comparison is more a real life comparison, not just the specs you can read anywhere. Little details you just notice after a time of use. For anyone who was torn between the two, should now be settled. Thank you for the effort!
Thanks for this video! I have a Z6ii and I have settings that look good in certain situations but in other lighting situations, the saturation and contrast seem weird, but if I use a colorchecker profile (made with daylight, which I apply to most pictures regardless of lens or lighting situation) the picture looks fine. Now that's fine for raw images, but for video, I find it frustrating that settings that looked good in one situation don't look good in a different situation. I would rather not color grade my videos, especially since the z6ii doesn't shoot 10 bit video internally. I don't know if it's somehow a matter of improving my lighting, or is it a problem with my picture control + portrait impression balance settings, or is it a nikon thing and should I look at different brands?
You should take a colorchecker profile image for each lighting situation, otherwise the white balance will be incorrect. That’s easier to fix with stills (especially with RAW images) than video. For video, I highly recommend that you take the few seconds required to set a custom white balance for each lighting situation. That will spare you the need to make colour adjustments in editing.
@@MaartenHeilbron I set the white balance with a gray card but I still have that weird problem sometimes. No matter what active d lighting and slider adjustments I make in the picture control software, there are situations where I can't get it to look right. I even tried a custom tone curve. But the raw file is fine. For now I just try to be very careful with lighting and do test videos to make sure things look right. But I wish I could understand what is causing this problem. It seems to me like there is a color gamut issue, but it seems like an unnecessary issue. The colorchecker profile I use(in Affinity Photo) gets colors looking right, I just have to adjust the white balance, so if I could just put that in the camera, I think everything would turn out fine. When I export photos in sRGB, things usually still look right, which is why whatever is going on in the camera seems like an unnecessary problem. It seems like nikon is trying to have some kind of style that limits colors and puts a weird contrast on things that looks unrealistic. Or my settings are wrong and I just can't figure out the right settings.
Hi Maarten, another excellent tutorial. Must a well exposed picture have a full histogram from left to right? Or, is it well exposed so long it is in the centre of the histogram?
Well, if you’re being technical, yes, it should be centred, with a wide a range as possible. However, the actual image and your creative intent should always take precedence over any meter.
Excellent tutorial, Maarten. Very organised and concise language. I like the way you describe the when and where for the AF modes and AF-area selection. However, I am still not clear the difference between subject tracking with AF-S which "tracks" the subject and AF-C which "continuously" focuses on the subject. Is it not that tracking the subject means continuously focusing on the subject? Plse help to explain elaborate more.
That’s an opinion, not a fact. the number of people still anxiously waiting for theirs is a testament to Fujifilm’s accuracy in judging the price/value combination here.
Thank you for the video. Do you know if a variable fps rate (VFR) can be set for video recording? Panasonic has it in their GH line. This feature is handy for quick timelapses done in video mode.
This is the most useful, unusual and serious-photographer-orriented review of a most reviewed camera. There are so many reviews out there in which someone holds the camera and shoots as many specs as he can during his video, while you explain the (unusual) way this camera works and its design philosophy. I wish you came back to RU-vid, I really enjoyed the videos you made. It shows your profound understanding of this technology, which is so rare these days. I, as so many, wanted to buy this camera, now I know why I should and why I should not. Thanks !!!
Thank you very much for your kind words, they are appreciated. The primary reason why I’m doing so few videos is the lack of support from manufacturers who no longer lend cameras to reviewers and have sharply curtailed all of the marketing and promotional activities.
Dear sir, I dont know how to contact you, thats why posting my queries here.I am a physician 46 yrs old from India.I am looking for a camera to take family pics, vacation trips, nature and birds on the trees.Since i am scared to use multiple lenses, i thought of sony RX 10 mark 4, but some have suggested to get a full frame camera with minimal lenses, i see you using fuji cameras much and i do like the colours, if you were in my position, which camera will you buy, i want to get a second hand camera and use it fully to understand the art of photography.Really appreciate your work, although i dont understand many technical details.I love the way you respond to all our queries and not biased in your opinions.Currently i own a canon point and shoot camera and my practical knowledge and usage of camera is very little, but i am really interested.Thank you.
First, I’d like to understand what you feel the deficiencies are with your current camera or phone. The RX10 is a valid choice, as is the recommendation to go with a full frame system, as is your desire to understand the technical details of photography. Practice and review with any camera should improve the two things only you can control - composition and timing. The rest can happily be left to the camera to manage.
As far as the cluttered controls, I think you have the option to customize the "my options" menu. That way you can select options you think you can use without having to dig through all the rest.
So what are bayer-induced impurities again which need to be cleaned up? Please elaborate on what exactly this clean up process is supposed to be? You can't mean a demosaicing process, since this is needed for x-trans to. Regards
If that's your need, then it's likely best to use the small EVF inset in the optical viewfinder which provides an expanded view of a selectable area. Otherwise, rely on the autofocus (works well, particularly with face/eye), or use the EVF when focussing with one of the many manual focus assists. Thanks for your kind words.
What? I've dealt with Jeff many times for replacement pads and upgrades since I purchased over ten years ago and have always found him (both on the phone and email) to be friendly, very conscientious and helpful. At one point he insisted on sending me a replacement part for free. I tried to e-transfer him a gratuity as thanks and he returned it.
Martin, great video - I've had mine for a few months now and love it. It's my everyday carry and it's always with me. One point you misspoke about was the camera not detecting the optional WCL and TCL lenses. The early versions of these were not the II version, and did not have auto detection. The II version like the one you were using, have a small magnet near the thread which let the camera know which adapter lens you are using, WCL or TCL. The X100VI automaticly knows which lens you added and it's noted on the display and viewfinder. One other thing I think you missed was the digital teleconverter that changes the standard lens to 50mm and 70mm. This of course does lower the megapixel for those shots to Medium for the 50mm digital zoom, and to Small for the 70mm digital zoom. The raw image for these digital zoom levels is as normal - the change is to the jpeg output. As always, well done!
Thanks for your kind words - and thanks for pointing that out. The digital teleconvertordoes not seem all that useful to me, so I passed over the opportunity to comment on that. Nice to hear that you've found value in this setting.
I don't use this camera but I do think it's a great camera and it's almost like a fashion accessory camera. It has that vibe that people search for and if that gets them into Photography that's a good thing and I think they've improved the auto focus on many of the series cameras. I own the XT5 and also a GFX cam so I really have no inkling to buy this camera but if I had a spare couple of grand lying around, maybe I would buy this camera in the futureWhen it comes down in price and this some available but I think it's a great camera and the sales on this camera indicate this is the type of camera people want people complain about the menus in FujiFilm cameras but my goodness I found them fairly easy to navigate at least what they are called in the menu is easy to understand. If you go into a canon or a Sony the terminology it's like it's in Chinese for me but that's just my brain once again thank you for the review. I do think this is an amazing camera and if it gets out there and people are taking photos that's a good thing.
Which camera lens should I choose, 16-50mm or the 18-140mm, as I prefer the compactness of the camera so will it be compact enough with the 18-140mm lens.