Top tips for Games Workshop and Warhammer terrain, the miniature painting hobby and your budget!
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A most honest and balanced take on 3D printing. I too long for the day where you just pick what you want and press print. I do understand that for some it is a hobby in and of itself but I just want nice models. I have gone down that very same rabbit hole only to discover I had to go just that 'little' bit further, first a flexible plate to make removal easier, then an enclosure and a heater. Ireland also not known for its high temperatures.
Keep pushing it back down. I used an old credit card to smooth it down. Once it’s fully wet on the underside it should stay down. If it’s still not sticking then you might not have put enough water on the sponge or stuff underneath.
Thank you so much for making this video. I had such a horrible experience with resin printers that I almost wanted to make a youtube video myself, but you've covered most of it here. One final death knell you missed in this video though is that most STL's arn't actually free. Sure you can find plenty of fancy free ones out there that youtubers love to showcase, but if you're actually planning on building an army you're probably going to want something specific, and unless you want some awful low poly sculpt you're gonna be paying somewhere in the region of 10-20 quid for it. Sure you can print as many as you like, but unless its your standard infantry unit how many duplicate models does the average person want anyway? Oh, and I also just wanted to note that you absolutely are not being overkill with safety. I did about half of the measures you did but skimped on some others, and I ended up getting severe resin burns within a month.
Omg you’re so right. I looked at buying some armies and they were like £70. Lots of models sure but add in resin at £30, all the disposable items like gloves, IPA, paper towels etc and it’s not really that much cheaper. As you say you can print multiple times but I only need one Army, not two. Add in that most models come in a subscription that I don’t want to pay for because I won’t need ALL the sculpts. I like Loot Studios stuff but it’s a subscription. You cannot buy single models.
Who washes their build plate? Swipe with paper towel to remove resin chipped during model removal and put it back in. Heating can be solved with brewing belt, or dedicated printer heater instead of that pointless filter inside. Enclosure can literally be a cardboard and duct tape with plastic window on the side too check the print. Ventilation system is needed, so that's fair, but on the other hand, 12v pc fan, some weak 12v power supply and flexible conduit are not expensive. That's what I did, looks a bit scuffed, but who cares if it sits somewhere out of sight. About the printer itself, pixel size is super nice, I'd personally throw that ACF film in the garbage where it belongs tho. Overall good small machine with potential for excellent prints
Brewing belt would be a good shoot but it’s not goi g to work on any of Elegoo new tilting vats. And they’re probably here to stay. Built in heating would be best on all machines. No heater fits inside this machine sadly. There’s not enough space. Even if you removed the filter. So the environment around d it needs heated and be fireproof. A cardboard box isn’t going to do that. Wife would kill me if I burnt the garage down! On the fan, yes. I’m pretty sure that’s all the creality one is at around the same price fully assembled. Saves anyone having to hook it all together which I was trying to avoid. Call me old fashioned but when I put together a setup I want it to last and be less ramshackle. 🤣 I guess I was attempting to show people a way to do that was all off the shelf bits, that was safe and could be done by anyone. Especially those who don’t want another hobby. 👍🏼
Awesome video. I was very much like you were on the whole resin 3D printing venture. Your insights and learnings have been very valuable and cover some valid and common issues associated with 3D printing. As someone who currently uses FDM printers and who has lived the nightmare of poor QC and the cost of adding more and more parts and accessories to my old 3D printer, I wasn't keen on this journey with resin printing. Hopefully the whole process will be made easier and less messy in the coming years where I can purchase a machine that is consistent and easy to operate and has very little clean up.
Ive done everything i can and gave myself every reason not to buy a 3d printer, all i want is a nice set of terrain that matches the wtc sizes without it being wood. Nice texture so i can paint it up. Gw pieces will cost me £600/£700 and still not be absolutely correct so this is the only way to achieve it! Elegoo mars 4 ultra and the wash station for half that and ill print all the forge world models too 🤷
This was a great video, you answered all the questions about the current state of tech. I don't want another hobby, I just want to print models of SciFi/movie ships that aren't available and spend time on the modelling. So I will continue to whittle away at my stockpile instead. I subscribed a few months ago, and based on the standard of your videos (and sharing a similar sensibility and age) I look forward to your RU-vid success. Please don't start adding stupid reaction faces to your thumbnails!
Haha. Thank you. Honestly I never understood the reaction faces. What are people reacting too? The thumbnail? The video? Tbh it’s too much faff spending extra time photographing myself and I’m hardly photogenic! 🤣🤣
Is the trigger a one piece slot in, no fiddles or faffing with trying to slot in a tiny column which has an elbow joint and a tiny baffle plate? If it’s a yes I’m getting one. Today. 👍👍
It’s basically a trigger on a stick with a ball at the bottom and a curved hinge. It just drops into the hole and then all the parts just screw together.
I want a 3d printer, but the fiddlyness of the settings, smell, and wet resin being hazardous put me off as I have a toddler/child who cosplays as a Kuiju often and I worry for her safety. Plus I get frustrated easy. I am lucky as I have a friends who prints for me. Great to see hobby videos from a fellow parent.
Yeah I want my kids nowhere near resin or unsafe lasers. I see too many videos of people just printing in their house with no safety. Just because it’s invisible doesn’t mean it isn’t bad for you. 😜
Yeaaaahhh this absolutely put me off, I was considering buying the Mars 5 ultra which comes out tomorrow as my first printer, but it just looks like a faff. I just want to take it out the box, grab a model file and say print. In my room, not caring about temperature. Wait a while and come back to a good quality figure. I'll wait another 10 years 😂
Hmm I wish it was like that too. But for that you’ll need a much more expensive printer. And even then, you’ll still need a ventilation tube to outside.
YES WE ARE THERE IN 2024, the brand is Bambú Lab and they are basically plug and play any of the models, I recommend you take a look at the A1 Mini, Bambú Lab Printers are tools, for resin printes check the HeyGears Ultraceaft Reflex or the Uniformation GK2 those are top tech resin printers that are as close as click and print as you can get, on the lower end check the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra which is an affordable and good printer as well
I’m using Saturn 4 ultra inside a small form factor enclosure w vent fan hose to my office window. Wash n cure station def a plus. This setup has been my easiest and safest method and amazed how fast I’m getting my prints.
I think you’re doing it absolutely right. The amount of people who just don’t bother with safety is hilariously unfunny. There’s like a whole Reddit thread about ignoring safety like breathing invisible toxins isn’t a big deal. 🤣 I want those people to talk to me in 20 years time. Glad your having fun getting great prints whilst being safe!!
HEY, im new to model painting and was wondering how well the army paints go through an air brush?..... being my first paint set because of the rang of colours and tri colours. ...or do i save the headach and just go for airbrush paints???
A useful and entertaiment video as always. I'm not into 3 d printers and after watching your video I can't be less interested. I think I'm still buying plastic models from GW and 3d printed minis from professional printers. I have the space and the money, but I don't have the time and the interest to jump in another time consuming hobby.☺️👍
I think I am less inclined to print models, as much, as I am wanting to print my own detail pieces for wargaming terrain. Things that would be fiddly and tough at small 28mm scale. Window frames, stair railings, pitchers, tankards and cups, packs, bags, and bundles. Things to dress up terrain that are rounded and detailed in ways the laser cutter or hobby knife can't replicate. That being said, the models of commoners and NPC every day people and live stock for your campaign from various sellers are getting really, really good.
@thestateofplay2023 Would there happen to be a link or download for the 24 color chart references? We would d love to be able to print it and reference the drops etc. at our family hobby area.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! The first video, that tells me, man, you are far to lazy for a second hobby, just don't do it! Wait another 10 years, safe money and time and order your 10mm minis online like you did the last ten years. It worked wonderful, still does. And I can stop watching "3d printer videos". That's a lot of time I will have for painting. So, this video helped me a lot. Thx, wish you the best, greetings from Germany
You’re welcome. I do like 3D printing but as you say, it seems like most videos are from people already fully invested. It’s like watching a football fan tell you his team is the best. Of course he thinks that! 🤣it’s takes someone else on the outside to look objectively at whether it’s true or not. 👍🏼
I started this recently too, and it's all so true! I think if you just print and don't design it doesn't make any sense other than saving the cost of figures or printing things that aren't found in plastic or metal castings. However, STL designers are generating a business model where the files are not cheap enough to be worth all the inconvenience of having to print them yourself, I understand that their work has to be paid for.... But I think the trend is to release a lot of products because they are not going to sell many of each, and expensive enough to amortise them in a very short time, because pirated files will be circulating quickly. The last straw is that I found a brand that sells STL or the same figures already finished in metal. Excellent figures. The thing is that STLs are more expensive than metal figures! Well, at least the STLs allow us to avoid all the inconveniences that we have on the continent when importing from the other side of Brexit.
Yeah it’s one thing I wondered. If I have to subscribe to 5-10 different STL makers and only print a small fraction of the models then is it that much cheaper. After all even if you buy a whole army for say $70 in STLs how many times are you really going to print them. Probably once. Because then you’ll have the army. I don’t imagine people will print two of the same army just to make it cheaper. 🤣
Interesting question. I’d probably do it by starting with the mid colour and adding the complimentary to darken it then adding white to lighten it. Which judging by the amount of white pigment in fanatic paints seems to be how they’ve done it. Having said this you could also do it by taking the colour you want on the chart and adding more or less drops of the mix to each side.
You dont need iso alcohol tho. You can, at least here in Denmark get denatured alcohol much much much cheaper. And after probably 200± prints I have yet to see it not work for rinsing or cleaning. Yes 3d printint is a bit expensive up front, but with the vast community you can easily find models for anything and often free - so price per figure goes down real quick. Especially because GW keeps increasing their prices and 3d printers and resin goes down (keep an eye out for holidays, especially the chinese ones) and you can get deals for something like 5 or 10kg resin for something like 100 british pounds - and thats from Elegoo or Anycubic. Sunlu is a great resin brand and is even cheaper. In regards to the used alcohol: you can use it several times, like probably 50+ times, with that build plate size, before you need to clean it. And that part is easy - leave the container outside so the suns UV sorts out the resin. Pour the alcohol into another container and you can reuse it. If you want to get rid of all of it, pour it into any sort of container and bring that to your local landfil/reuse center/garbage disposal area and ask them - they will have system for it.
Thanks for that. Great info I’ll be using in future. And yeah, GW price increase are pushing me into 3d printing. My one gripe so far is all the subscriptions for 3D models. Far too many on a subscription and not as individual sales.
I recently got my first ever resin printer. I've very much of the same opinion. Plug and play. But I caved since at the time the Anycubic photon mono 2 was on sale on amazon. I figured if I was going to give this a shot, a good sale was a nice starting point. And I don't regret my purchase. Anycubic has a great exposure time finder that lets you test 8? (I think 8) exposures at once. So I was able to do a single cones of calibration test using it and there I had it. Done. And yee. I'm with ya on Presupported models. I stuck to it a lot. And I printed a lot of things I've enjoyed. The number of models I have right now outweigh the cost I would have spent purchasing them. And that's awesome. More recently I've finally printed a model I had to support. The presupported version failed me and I desperately wanted this model printed. I prayed and used autosupport, using the medium option with the large option's base. And it worked out. Oh and I also recently had to tune the tolerance setting so parts would fit together smoothly. Aside from that I do not change settings and never intend too. I couldn't care if it takes 5 hours to print or not. It prints and that's what matters to me.
Oh yeah I also don't use an all in one. The cost isn't worth it. A couple Tupperware and lots of vigorous shaking does the job for me. A machine to spin alcohol seemed like a needless expense. I benefitted from having a nail curing station that I use in tangent with a cheep solar powered spinner for curing.
I remove my supports prewash. I've not seen any videos suggesting it but the idea of washing my supports, the material I'm going to be tossing out, seemed like the wildest thing to do. I've not had any issues doing this and it helped get in the tight areas that the supports otherwise cover up.
The monument mold line cleaner is better than the citadel 1x10,000 times and it actually has kind of an edge. It's not going to cut you kind of an edge but it has an edge. As far as filling holes.... Sprue goo, for even bigger holes you can get putty. I feel like filling holes has the exact same problem as sanding which is if it's in a really inconvenient place you can damage details or screw up the look somehow.
Now I’m imagining people in tweed suits with pipes standing around a wooden building arguing about Pythagoras. And I don’t know why. I went to Uni - there were no staff remotely tweedy. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 HaHaHa! the staff were: the shop foreman - had more of a hippie vibe; the shop technical expert - kinda like an assistant manager on a football team; and the student assistant - a medical student with a heavy artsy, crafty vibe
oh man, why do all guys do reviews and tests with worst possible resin? you should use phrozen 8k or hyper fine resin - better results are day and night
Absolute bollocks. There's been more than enough test around showing that the 8k in resin is just pure marketing bullshit. The resin he used in video is just fine and useful. With good settings it will suit anyone but the top 5% miniature builders. And at a fraction of the price on the resin.
Yes I watched a Once in a 6 side video that confirmed what I thought anyway. Stick an 8k on the label and whack up the price. I’m sure some resins are better but I highly doubt a $70 dollar resin is $50 better than a $20 dollar one!
@@thestateofplay2023 Cool, thanks. I’m color blind, so when I find a scheme I like it is better to stick to the recipe. I might do something that looks unnatural to others if I start improvising.
@@thestateofplay2023 Tell me a little bit about what the tops on the columns and walls are supposed to be. Are they and the platforms with the ossified earth prime coat supposed to be a galvanized metal? I was thinking that I might want to repaint them grey to match cement of the interior wall, but I want to make sure I understand what your recipe is trying to do before deviating from it.
It was basically an oxidised metal that tends to have blues, oranges and creams in it. As Necromunda is 10s of thousands of years old making it concrete would have meant adding my loads of cracks where people walk. But In my case it was a simple case of making them match the battlemat I use.
@@thestateofplay2023 Got it. Thanks! I'm not planning on deviating with the floors and platforms. But I am thinking that cement colored wall and column toppers will tie the look of metal cladding on concrete walls together even more. (And, while gangers may climb on top of walls and columns that aren't topped by platforms, I don't think there would be regular foot traffic there).
Those images are now the background for my laptop. Finally knowing how much of each ink to use will save me soooooooo much time. The only hang up with this is they don't have a straight magenta, there is a pink and red is available both are magenta adjacent, I'd say go with another brand for pure magenta though.
If you want to make a ventilation systwm. Just go for standard parts, used for houses. Studf from 3d printer companies are most often not made for houses.
If you increase the resin printer size, you have to raise the k to keep pixel size more or less the same, compared to the smaller printer. Sou you still have to up the k to shrink the pixel sizes. Unlike with cameras, smaller pixel sizes are better. J3Dtech has a video, comparing print quality between 3 types of vat film: fep, nfep and acf (the cloudy stuff). You can get each kind for every printer - you need them as spare parts anyway.
Well... you can get sls printers, which work with powders instead of resin. Sadly, those start at about $8k and go up to 6 digits - not counting in the cleaning stations, where you get the excessive powder off to reuse it.
my main aversion to 3d printing is that i just want it to plug and play, ive always said, when it is easier than just buying a model online - then ill buy one. - Plus my pile of shame is more like a room of shame.
Same here. Although sadly my pile is a mountain that I could actually ski down. So much so that I can’t even think of anything to 3D print because I simply don’t need any more models. 🤣
Top quality video as always. The day a resin comes out that I can use in the house without worrying the kids will grow a third eye then that’s the day I get a resin printer.
i currently have two resin printers and have had no real issues. they were both pretty much plug and play. with around half an hour to set up. i use a nail salon fan to help vent out the window and i have no issues with temperature. also to reduce extra chemicals i use elegoo water washable resin and a pickle jar to clean the prints. if you have the cash and the space i really recommend going for it as i have printed tonnes of stuff over the years.
Good advice. I wish I lived somewhere hotter but sadly I don’t. Although if I was being totally honest I’d don’t think that fan setup is doing anything for the VOCs floating through your room. No one really knows yet how bad breathing resin is for health. I guess we’ll find out in about 15-20 years. 😳
