I have 6 storage units that are jam packed with working electronics and antiques in Midland MI How do I get in touch with you ? I know you would be interested in them
One of my favorite Zeniths. Most of these selenium rectifiers had a voltage drop of about 5-8 volts, so a small (say 10watt) wire wound resistor should do. You can alligator a 25 ohm resistor in series with the new diode, check the B plus and go up if needed.
I had this same car in Red. Sterling 827 SLI Hatchback inherited from my aunt who bought it new in 89. Purchased in Orlando Florida. Car had over 400k on the clock when I totaled it. My aunt still hasn’t forgave me to this day for totaling that car.
I have a Zenith Royal 2000 with low volume and dials dont turn The fromt emd AM-FM worlks good This will need a cap job and the dials serviced Thank God the front end works good Shango 66 had major problem with the front end on the Zenith royal 2000 and it also needed a cap job
This is great! I really enjoy watching people like you keeping these old vintage radios going. No one would ever think of restoring today’s cheap radios seventy years from now! Good job!
Instead of a high power resistor with the silicon diode , what if you used a full wave bridge rectifier? Still might need a resistor, but one with lower watt rating...?
I remember having an early Philco set with similar behaviors and to my dismay what cured that old set was re arranging the component leads underneath. Very choosy circuits and one wire or resistor lead set too close to something else can stop that radio dead in its tracks. Good luck to ya and I really enjoy your channel!
Works for my 2004 Avalon. Thanks. Simple instructions already. Like to add that we can repeat last step for additional keys. KEY PROGRAMMING Please make sure to read through the programming instructions completely before attempting. You must have a black original master key to perform this procedure. If you have a grey key, or you do not have a key at all, a trip to a dealership or an automotive locksmith will be required for the programming. 1. Enter the vehicle, close and unlock all doors using the power lock switch on the driver’s door. 2. Insert your original black key into the ignition switch but do not turn the key. 3. Within fifteen (15) seconds, using the accelerator/gas pedal, press and release the pedal five (5) times. 4. Within thirty (30) seconds, using the brake pedal, press and release the pedal six (6) times. 5. Within ten (10) seconds, remove the key from the ignition switch then insert the new key to be programmed but do not turn the key. Using the accelerator/gas pedal, press and release the pedal one (1) time. At this point the immobilizer warning lamp will begin to flash for one (1) minute (The immobilizer lamp is a small red circular light, or a small red car shape with a key light, located on your dash display or next to the steering column). After one (1) minute has passed, this light will stop blinking, indicating that the new key has been successfully programmed. 6. Additional keys must be programed within ten (10) seconds by repeating STEP 5. 7. Once you have programmed all the keys, exit the programming mode by removing the key that is currently in the ignition, then press and release the brake pedal one (1) time. You can program up to seven (7) keys at one time. 8. Test all keys to ensure they are functioning. If any did not program, restart the programming procedure from STEP 1.
I know it's been 4 years, but I'll leave this anyway. I have the same radio that belonged to my wife's family since it was new and it had the same bad hum. I removed the big orange cap, put the ohmmeter on it, and both sections were wide open. I thought that caps would normally short when they went bad, but this one did the opposite. Maybe it had a fusible component. I hollowed out the paper case with the help of a heat gun and found a big glob of burnt black wax in the top, like this thing had a catastrophic failure but didn't explode. When I get the replacements, I'm going to put them inside the old case. Maybe I'll label the top so someone will know.
Tried one of these from a schematic online. Three things that make them not as good as a yagi with radio sound, like a metal detector. 1) You can't tell if the fox is 180 behind you. 2) Too much multi-path interference, so your triangulation is not exact, but a large area. 3) No good at close up (to fox). Next year, I'll be making a yagi and either have a good signal strength meter, or use the sound on the radio.
I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience about old radios. I also appreciate you don't dress in drag in your videos. Just sayin'......
The alignment by the book starts with the #4 band, closest to the front of the set. I strongly advise not to dig the wax out of the slug adjustment. A coil like that will not change value with age. It is not difficult to run into trouble and declare the set a Time Bandit. Back in the day the term was Tough Dog.
I have revived this same model and was working great after re-capping. Now the power/tone switch is intermittent and does not always power off when in off position. Switch started to smoke even through dim bulb tester and have that awful smell . Any idea as to the problem please?
