Prior to the prewash, remove the greasy chain and cassette from the bike so the degreaser can't get to the hub and bottom bracket bearings... call it the preliminary prewash preparation
You need a separate: a) microfiber mitt for the frame and wheels b) medium-sized brush for the tires c) specific brush for the drivetrain (hard bristles and cassette scraper) d) soft-bristled toothbrush for hard-to-reach frame spots
Sometimes I forget how lucky I am to live in a desert mountain environment. Mud is a foreign concept when cleaning my bikes, pre wash means using a couple of cheap paint brushes to remove most of the dust, followed by a damp, lint free towel. Cleaning the drivetrain involves compressed air to remove dust, applying White Lightning or similar wax based chain lube, and thoroughly wiping away any excess. Everything gleams, and no water to dry afterwards. It was much different when I lived in Dallas, Texas 20 to 50 years ago: my cleaning rituals were very much as you demonstrated in this video. Kudos to all who seek a clean ride, and keep on pedaling!😁
Clamp on seat stem not frame, adjust seat stem if needed. Use a cloth in clamp. Wheels off, easy to do. Clean with normal washing up liquid including tyres. Clean brake discs and callipers in isopropyl alcohol. Chain off and clean separately. Water soluble degreaser on derailleurs and lube afterwards. Car shampoo for frame either microfibre mitt or soft detailing brush. Not a sponge. Dry with microfibre towel. Finally, if you can see the grease or chain lubricant it’s not doing anything apart from attracting dirt. Should all be internal.
A blower would way more efficient to blow out all the water from the bearings. A towel will definitely not do that. There’s chances that the towel will even scratch the paint. Touch less dry.
The truth is the only parts of a bike that need to be kept clean are the inside of all moving parts. Keep the grease free of contaminates and this includes degreaser. Therefore, don't wash your bike unnecessarily. Should only be done before doing maintenance on it, especially involving stripping down any bearings or moving parts.
@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 We all have our personal preferences. Some like to ride around with a pocket rocket on display under only lycra shorts. I like a good layer of dirt on a bike it proves it's being used and is useful. A layer of dirt has to be earned by miles of riding.
Not a single mention of waxed chain?! The top tube clamp is just wrong. The drying step really is the difference, and a battery leaf blower does 90% of that job. I like automotive wheel & tire cleaner on bikes for the same, sprayed with an IK (hand pump) foaming sprayer. I know we’re shilling Muc-Off but the 1L pump sprayer is just fine for a bike.
I cleaned my bike after a particularly wet and grimy ride.. first time with a pressure washer, stood well back. Then used my petrol leaf blower at full blast which removed all the water! Full polish after, I’ve left the chain for the time being until I know if it’s going to be a dry or a wet summer 🌦️
A couple of suggestions: 1. never use a sponge, rather use a medium stiffness nylon bristled hand brush. 2. if using a hose, keep the water jet to the lowest possible pressure, don't aim it at any joints behind which bearings are located. 3. start from the top, i.e. the saddle, and work down, allowing low pressure water to wet the surface you're cleaning, then using the brush to dislodge any dirt, while running water over the surface to wash the dirt away. 4. I avoid wetting the chain as far as possible, unless it's really covered in mud, preferring to finish the rest of the bike before cleaning the chain and the cogs. 5. when finished washing the rest of the bike, consider what your chain requires. the minimum should be, dry the chain with a clean piece of old towel, then, after a couple of hours, in the sun if possible, sparingly apply chain lube, leave again for a few hours then wipe away excess lube from the chain using a dry clean piece of old towel. Don't rush the cleaning operation and visually check the condition of all components as you clean them, noting anything that might need later attention or adjustment.
I like using blue shop towels to dry the chain and anything else that has grime. Shop towels biodegrade better than cloth. They are also cheaper. If my bike needs deep cleaning, I use disposable gloves to protect my hands.
In the summer put your bike in the sun for 10-15 mins. to finish drying. In the winter and bad weather put it near the furnace or another warm dry place. A little iso. alcohol and a very clean rag, to clean those brake rotors after.
When drying, dry from the top-down, if you start from the bottom, water from the top may drip down and have you re-dry some places; you may be able use gravity to your advantage when spraying water/soap on your bike too: top and work down---keeping in mind the contamination risk as mentioned in the video: be sure not to get some products near your brakes--or drop down from above the brakes.
Thanks Manon! Useful stuff, especially as you just reminded me that I'd cleaned my bike this afternoon. And left it outside to dry late into the night! (Thankfully out of sight and under a roof line, so no dew set.)
Soft bristled paint brush = perfect waxed chain duster. After that task, it can be used to knock off a lot of dust and light dirt, especially around wheels, spokes, cassettes, mech.
Use Much off MO94 or WD-40 after a wash to displace any water trapped in the hard to reach places especially the headset to prevent rust and corrosion. Make sure you cover the disc brakes prior to prevent contamination.
Jet wash, GT85 liberally on chain, wait 2-3 minutes, jet wash chain, re-lube chain with any good R&D'd lube (engine oil is great and will save you loads!), replace bearings with stainless steel ones once they develop play or seize up. Keep it simple.
If you jet wash you will drive out grease and get water in the wheel bearings, centre bearing, steering bearings and other places. Then you’ll be moaning that everything on your shiny, expensive new bike is creaking and grinding and what a ripoff the brand is.
I've often been told over the years not to use a pressure washer to clean a bike's drive train as water can be forced into the bearing assembly. Not sure how valid that is for modern road bikes. I ride a 1993 Trek 520 Touring.
As a mechanic I knew a few shops in the area used a pressure washer to clean the bike before a tune up. And yes the bicycles that I had worked on with their sticker on it always had problems with lack of grease and an abnormal amount of corroded and seized parts. Definitely took longer to refurbish to sell confidentially as a second hand bike. Really cannot recommend pressure washers. It's not necessary anyway. A little diluted detergent , cotton rags and Lemmon Pledge with a clean rag at the end. That worked for our shop during the 35 years I worked there. Non of the other brands worked as welll.
You really want to clamp carbon frames in the middle tighter the better. Use an oily rag on any matte finish and disk brakes to get them nice and clean. Follow that up with a jet wash, making sure to get right into any bushes and grommets. Plenty of degreaser on the chain, just leave it on for a couple of days. Boom! You're welcome.
Hacksaw blade is far better than a screwdriver on scraping grime from jockeywheels. And its the best tool for cleaning the cassette. You can use it with a rag aswell.
I put the chain on a large cog and the big ring to extend the derailleur, then just pinch each jockey wheel between thumb and finger with a rag as I rotate the chain. That's done every chain cleaning, real easy.
At the Giro recently I saw a team's bike mechanic clamping the top tube while working on the bike. I do that too, very carefully. I'm a short-ass, so don't have a lot of seat post sticking out, and don't want the hassle of removing the saddle bag, and raising the saddle.
I see people cleaning gears and cogs by spraying degreaser. Isn't it risky? I mean, can't the degreaser enter other bearings that should be kept lubricated and clean them?
Only if it has a quick link that is designed to be reused, not all are. Pressing out a pin is really not advisable. They never go back in as tight and can cause the chain to break. Good idea to remove the chain when washing the bike.
I treat my 100$ commuting bike the same as my 10k mtb. If they cant handle a wash then they shouldnt be in my garage. Plus if I scratch them ill just repaint them
It's a park tool advert (the stand). And a disaster, clamping top-tube on an expensive carbon frame (made worse by nothing between harse clamp internals and frame) and the nice expensive stand that this video is really about is getting wet.
@@tobiasbouma4071 yep I agree completely... However I try find the proper balance between washing and greasing as one takes considerably longer to do than the other so if the bike is just dusty from a few dry rides I don't rush to wash it...
I started waxing my chains this season. One for immediate use and one for a spare. Swap them out every 500 km. Almost zero maintenance. Lightly wipe it down with a piece of paper towel after a wet ride. Dust it off with a soft bristle paint brush after a dry ride. That’s it. Mech and cassette stay cleaner too.
What about those of us who live in a third floor apartments with no hose or running water available? Everything has to be hauled down to the street and the washing done on the sidewalk between the entrance to the apartment building and the street. What if the apartment management objects people making messes in front of the building? What if there is no space accessible to the public between my building and the buildings adjacent?.
Time to get creative! If you want your bike parts to last longer, they're going to need to be maintained or your going to be hit with an expensive chain/cassette replacement every time the gears start auto shifting and skipping gears. Silca has great gear wipes to clean the chain/cassette. I've cleaned my bike countless times in the shower/bathtub. A garden sprayer works great if you have the space, and sometimes bike shops have bike cleaning stations that you can use.
Are you suggesting this is purely a sponsor video? Parktool,Elite wheels,Shimano all on show, next to no effort on what the video claims to be about, you could be onto something.
Precisely, I'd skip the sponges. Use old towels ripped or cut to US facecloth or diaper size ( about 30 cm x 30 cm). Throw them in the washing machine to clean or out in garbage if they get too dirty.
Im really sorry will not follow you guys any more. I followed you perhaps now for 4-5 years, but I have the feeling that I am rewatching every video again and again, every two to three months there is coming the same content every time
Dont use a screwdriver to clean your jockey wheels 😬 metal on plastic not a good combination. Use a rag.. Also take the wheels off to get around the frame better. Takes an extra 2 mins but worth it. Obviously dont clamp your top tube if cf.
