This patio heaters are around $180…. No worth the amount of time and work in my opinion but if you bring something like this to me and I see that it works, I’ll buy it for maybe $60 so it’s a good video overall for people to learn how to fix and resell.
so this is the 2nd video of yours i watched. the first being the one where you fixed a scooter. My only question is this.... Why in the two videos are there some kind of police or fire trucks passing by?
So I just got a new used scooter. Meaning its not new but its new to me. I appreciate this video so much. I would say im above average technically, but could always use a how to here and there. The problem with most videos that I watch is they usually like to make them as short as possible and will usually skip a removal here and there especially if they are having problems. I dont know if its a matter of pride or maybe they feel the viewer doesnt way to see what problems may occur when making a repair, which I disagree with since the reason a user watches these is to see how to do the repair including when the person doing the work runs into a problem. This video changed all that. You addressed so many possibilities and were perfectly fine is you diagnosed one of them wrong you just continued on with the progress. I learned so much not only about how to make several repairs but also what to expect. For instance, I was watching a video on repairing a toilet which involved removing and replacing the old rusty bolts that connect the seat with the tank. The guy had an old toilet where the bolts were rusty so I thought this would be perfect. The video he showed the toilet together where he explained and showed where the bolts were and how he was going to take them off. Then the video ended and restarted with the tank separated from the seat and he went on to show how to replace with the new bolts. I didnt figure it out till later that the reason he stopped the video at that point is because since the bolts on his were so rusted he couldnt just undo the bolts and ended up having to get a hack saw and try to cut through the bolt from in betweent the tank and the seat and hope to not crack or break either of the two parts in the process. You would think that would be something you would want to mention to the watcher when creating the how to video but no, just stop the video and start it showing how easy it is to just add the new bolts and not mention how hard it is to remove the old rusty ones. Anywoo, I complement you and thank you on your video. As I said I learned not only how to make the repair, but how to diagnose as well as how to handle when even the repair doesnt resolve things Again thank you
So we pretty much all have been through the embarrassing realization of learnthe meaning of kick scooter It sounds like the controller is overheating. Replace it and you should be good.
You're trying but there's nothing wrong with your starter that connects with the side case and you have erratic starting I guarantee inside your engine or something wrong
Thank you for sharing with the world 😎 how you approach fixing stuff! I've viewed a few videos about these cans' power switch issues. "Although" its the lengthiest, yours also was most fun to watch. The simplest solution I got to work is to connect the "+" pad underneath the BT switch PCB to the hall sensor's connection point on the main PCB. Connecting the wire to the hall sensor's active point on the PCB (the one next to the ribbon connect that is closer to the earpiece's shell) took me a bit of trial-and-error. It definitely helped to add some solder to that point first, before soldering the wire into place. Holding the wire in place with tweezers also massively helped. Two important points: 1. As @superspeeder already wrote, its important to use a good length of wire, and route it from _underneath_ the switch PCB. Place the wire in a bow across the main PCB inside the earpiece shell. Otherwise, that wire will get in the way when you re-insert the speaker module into the shell. 2. @co2588's description sounds similar. However, the middle pin on _top_ of the switch PCB is actually connected to the ground plane of the main PCB. You can verify this with a continuity tester. By connecting the wire to this point, the headset will be switched on all the time… It's actually the left pin on top of the PCB (when looking at the PCB from above with the switch facing away from you) that is connected to the positive BT lead. In any case, though, I suggest you solder the wire to the bottom of that PCB, as per point 1. above. Good luck!
The exact same issue I was facing. Your method of re-forming the plastic switch worked perfect. Thankyou. It's my original 20" ego. Rarely does a product exceed expectations. I'd say the only issues with my generation is almost all plastic and some plastic can wear. I see newer models have updated parts I've had wear out, so the company is on top of it.
Also adding a microswitch to on off the device would be nice, i have a pair with the same stuff, im planing on fix it on 3 days when my tools from amazon are coming, i was just thinking on just adding a microswitch and do a mini hole with my mini drill to glue that small switch 🤔
My son spent 2 hours on his bike following along with exactly what you did just to find out that he “broke his scooter beyond repair.” You should at least add a disclaimer so people know you messed up your bike.
Can anyone here help my electric scooter works perfectly fine but once push off and throttle hits max speed it turns off and iv got to plug in charger again to get to work again and it repeats
Your resets will return your volume all the way down so you can't even hear the menu navigation beeps. Just use your remote and turn the volume all the way back up.
Those clock signals simply identify the makeup of a pixel in the circuit to which they're assigned. In other words, it tells a pixel what position it should be in, what color it should be, how long it should be there, how bright it should be and so on. If the clock circuit is bad, those pixels will simply be invalid.
I fixed it under battery cap bottom side the conection loose or broken stupid front motor hit curb too hard all the force on the battery pegs broke 2 difrent scooter this way
Wow .... What a well made piece of Crap ....!!! You might as well Hot Wire the whole mower when you buy it new .... No relays, no switches , just a shitload of wire nuts and electrical tape .... Turn it on and off by taking the battery in and out ... It's a real bitch when it's moving, but it will always go . 😅😂🤣😡😡😡
Thank you very much for this very helpful video. My 65 inch onn TV started working again. There was only one difference, when I disconnected the ribbon cable on the right side, half of the screen turned white, and when I disconnected the left side from the T-con, nothing happened. In video, you had at least half the picture. Desperately, I started trial and error with tape and randomly covering a series of connectors on the right ribbon cable until I saw the complete image, but the quality was not good, and lines were also visible, and the light on the upper left corner of the screen was increasing and decreasing. . In short, I think that I only covered the connector number 15 or 16, the picture came back great and now the TV is working without any problems.
And the only thing wrong to start with was an air bubble in the pump tyat vouod gave been eorked out by running water thru the system with the wand removed and maybe tilting the machine back n forth in different directions. Time well spent recording a video of how to make sure your pressure washer never works again.
Came across this video not sure why ahah but well, I fixed several TV's (LED from various brands) just replacing the failing led, usually I look for signs of burning on all LED's just in case they look like they will fail soon. If more than 2 look burned on the same stripe is better just to replace the whole stripe because the others might be "overwhelmed" with the extra voltage. Each stripe takes ~24vdc, if you check on the controller board it will be written there. ( also on power board all power pins will be marked as 24v) Most of my test clients were friends and family on "nothing to lose repair style", and the repaired LED's always lasted for more than 2 years before they fail again, actually my own 75inc Samsung has almost 12 years, kids use it from morning to eve and already repaired 2 times after warranty around 4 years difference between each repair. The best trick if leds do not blink at all, is to switch on the TV, pick up a flashlight on a dark room and point very close to screen to check if display is actually showing up image, if this is true then you know leds are faulty. Have a good one and for more future cheap 1/20th of a new tv repairs!!!
Don't bother fixing it. I own a 150cc. Something else will break within a week. It is not reliable in any way except you can count on it failing regularly. I am converting mine to hybrid or full electric. Sick of this crap!
