I did the Stage 1 NSR Comp Cam MK 112 300 11 on a 2006 5.7 hemi that was pushing 324.6whp/364.1wtq with longtube headers with a dynotune. Haven't had it dynoed since the Cam install and new dynotune
Frp has a Tomahawk 2.0 cam with 111 LSA . For a street car this should be all one would need and make great power everywhere. I think 108-110 would be the best LSA for these cars with 108 preferred. A cam with 230-235@50 intake duration would be all you would ever need. You could run a single patteen on these cars as they have decent exhaust flow. Of course a cam with that much duration and that tight lss would require flycut or aftermarket pistons. The 6.4 with upgraded springs is more than capable of 7000+rpm which is where the 230+ cams will shine and the tight LSA would keep your bottom end. The idle would be radical and a good tuner mandatory. I will be building my Hellcat next year. Most likely will spec a custom cam though the FRP offerings are getting pretty close. A cam with 230in 242exh and 108lsa would be very nice indeed. Boost in the 20-23lb range with my Kong ported 4.5 Whipple.💪 It will be 400+ci. Im factory blower and 17lbs on pump gas now with a few gallons of e85 and some boostane for safety. I plan to run E85 when built and leaded e85 when i need to push the car harder
Hemi's do not work well with tight lobes, and generally anything that adds Overlap with restrictive street exhausts is going to result in a loss down low. Nobody who's familiar with the Gen 3 hemi is going to put a Single Pattern, Long Duration Cam with a tight lobes in it. It's all centered around keeping overlap to a minimum, because they don't respond well to it.Going from a 224* at .050" to 234*@.050 would require closing the intake valve 5* later (low-mid loss) and double the overlap from 5 to 10 (which with street exhaust's will result in more power lost). Which is why once you get to the 220-228 @ .050" Intake/230-238ish at .050" exhaust range and 112-114 Lobe sep, you see greatly diminishing returns on both the 5.7 and 6.1/6.4. 2 of the 3 Guys that have gone 10's N/A on 5.7 Hemis in trucks, guess what the cam specs were? 218/228 at .050" on a 112 LSA. Jay Greene's cams have even more split, 15* or more. One last Caveat - FRP Ryan's Cams, even those that have tightish lobes, aren't a 111 LSA, they're a 111ICL. By advancing the cam timing and not the lobe, he gets the low-mid increase from the earlier intake valve close, but doesn't need to add in the duration and overlap that you'd get from moving just the intake lobe, which would cause the power loss experienced in this video. Check out SPDC's hemi cam testing - they tested a 108LSA, and a 112 matched it down low and made more in the midrange and up top as well. Notice how once they get to the high 21X range on the intake and high 22X range on the exhaust, there's really not much more gains. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RxSQDvgqeAY.html
Many thanks for this huge informations. I dropped stage 1 in my 6.4 scat pack and i just added filter intake (afe) and also removed the convertor, all other parts are factory, my question is do i need headers (after market)? If yes, which headers do you recommend and size.
For Stage 1, you don't need headers. Stage 2, headers and new valve train. Stage 3, valve train, headers, ported heads, TB, ported manifold. Stage 4 is all out race car .
I think my old man's worn LS pulled more than that standard and still running with 450000ks on it. Nice VK Tho I was expecting way more power even as NA.
Hi ,got recommended from the comments on rad potential,this is just so much fantastic info for my 13b na bp rx4 coupe.I can’t thank you enough.appreciate you giving such a clear honest,open vid. Best regards from New Zealand.
Non MDS lifters are required, correct? I had been looking at a stage 3 cam for my 2019 scat pack challenger, but after looking at your other video and dyno numbers of the 3 stages compared, the stage 1 seems like a no brainer, especially on stock internals.
Great results from such a mild engine. The mixture plot really shows how fuel injection can fill in all those areas where the mixture isn't optimum even though peak power might not be much more
Obviously no need for any more than stage 1 on the stock motor. One of the MAJOR issues is LSA. Usually the smaller cams have tighter LSA which makes more TQ and average HP. Just facts. Somehow in all our modern wisdom; we think that adding duration along with a widened LSA is the way to go. It's not! Run a tighter LSA and moderate duration. This will provide what the engine wants and not what you want. On a Hellcat you could grind a cam with factory numbers except for big tightening of the LSA and make more power everywhere. Most likely beating aftermarket wide LSA cams in average power. You could also keep your VVT while increasing power everywhere. On a side note . You CAN get a lopey idle with the smaller can and tighter LSA
None of these seem to be worth the trouble. I am pulling 426HP and 425 lb-ft stock with a stock Chrysler 5.7 exhaust on my 6.4. Tiny gains for the cams
Something is wrong here...I've seen dyno runs making more or the same power then that on a stock 392... so then whats the need for a cam exchange just saying...
So are all stage 1 cams from different manufacturers the same in performance levels? Is this something new I don’t recall having stage 1-2-3 cams for older engines like 340-440? Thanks
You don't need a 1000rwkw "$2k barra" to enjoy driving your weekend street car Some of the nicest sounding engines I've ever heard were 304, 308, 355, 383 Holden V8s A nice Holden V8 sounds much better than an LS IMO
Great vid! She sounds like an evil wench when she's on cam & winding up! I'm here in the states & contemplating a 6.4 upgrade for my '06 300. How much of a PITA is that & how do you switch the idle from choppy to smooth?
The variable cam timing retards the cam as revs increase. Idk, but let's say it varies by 8 degrees. Would maybe start out with a 4 degree advance on the cam optimized for torque in the middle of the power band. And at half rpm or 3050, would be at zero degrees. Then drop a degree every 760 rpm increase. It's best to pick a cam that gives the best average horsepower from basically 1000 rpm to redline. And the flattest torque curve. A dialed in setup is what is needed. No one component will ever really improve and engine like the 6.4 without supporting changes. Best post I've seen thus far . Eliminating the non wrenching boy racers opinions is a refreshing thing. Noise and lope are not necessarily faster. Efficiency always is.
The stock bottom end can handle the the higher rpm range with upgraded valve train. The 6.4’s do not have a long enough stroke to cause issues. Sorry, but the video is a waste if you are not maxing the cams with their proper rpm range: also, having the cam specs will help a lot as well. Depending on how big the stage 3 is you could benefit from a shorter runner intake with a stall. Moreover, the video was done well.
Yeah stock 6.4 should be able to rev at least 7000+, Stage 1 is 218/228, stage 2 is 220/230, stage 3 is 224/234 IIRC, with the stage 2 and 3 having higher lift, but less LSA
Lmfao! There’s no such thing as “Stage cams”. Lift, duration, icl and LSA are specs. Not stages. As far as RPM, that has to do with your valvetrain. You can’t just slap a bunch of $hit together out of a catalog.
@@Cultofpersonality09129. Agreed, that’s why we specs and blue printed my 394CI 6.4L stroker. Even had 5degrees of advance added to the cam to help with torque production in my heavy CrewCab💪🏻. I think it’s mostly the newer car guys whom go by specs. Most people don’t understand specs like we do.
@@captainboose8788. Still running a 6.4L intake on my stroker with a 233/246 112LSA cam, and revving to 6,600rpm because of 5degrees advance. Went with this on my combo because I’m running a no prep 4X4 setup for the street, extra torque goes a long ways. However, MMX did say I am maxing out the 6.4L intake. A lot of the 5.7L SBE trucks are revving to the 7k+ range with the bigger cams.
Have a 2019 scat with a JLT Cai and solo performance cat back and hhp tune put down 441whp dyno jet. Cam and headers should have you in the 460- 470ish whp from what I've seen. But great vid sir 👏 👌 👍ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gj3DgxLzZtI.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7MRTxawAhOE.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5QBZ9ZLAoCI.html few examples
i am suprised he didnt check the needle seat size first up upon removing the lid and checking it everybody knows you change it if it's only a 2mm, a 3 mm is the norm for any performance application what was he thinking?
Bro.u need a 45.mm venturi a 235 main jet and f11 emulsion tube or f8 tube and a 110 to 110 air jetaq celebratory pump 0 and make sure the discharge nozzles are drilled a bit.Idle jet run a 70 to 75 for racing.and when ur gona drive normal stick a 65.and ur motor will drive and sound beautiful.thats what I did.if u drive it with 70 idle or bigger ur gona foul plugs.so carry 2 sets of idle jet in ur car.With this combo u will be very happy my man.Try it out and let me know what happens.If u run a air cleaner put a 230 main
