The only thing they haven't seem to master is getting rid of the dash rattle and rear shelf/speaker rattles. I also have some rattles on the front passenger adjustable seat belt holster. I'm talking about my 2024 Model 3 performance. :(
Agreed, I have the same issue with the front dash. Did you go to the service center? I did and they said they tied down some wires and added felt padding, but the issue returned 💀
@@officialmichaeltanNot yet. I took delivery on July 5 and reported some other issues compiled from the delivery day and added the rattle a few days after and they have pushed out my apt 3x now. So supposedly, I am scheduled to bring it in Aug 15, but hoping they won't push it out again. And anytime I add another issue they seem to push out the date too. My 2022 Model 3 Long Range had rattles in the same front area and it turned out to be some broken clips. When they replaced, rattles didn't come backl. I should have just kept it. Once that was resolved the car was perfect. Now I regret getting into another rattle box. If they fix it all on then I will be a happy camper. Otherwise I may just move away from Tesla in general.
Don’t press on one small spot where the arrow is. Use your entire thumb to press over the whole area and it’s much easier. No problems after doing this method.
Or.... you know, have a turn signal stalk like every other car manufacturer does.... 🤦♂️ I swear some engineers just like to create problems that shouldn't exists at all 😮💨
I hate my turn signals in my 2024 M3P I heard the cybertruck has real buttons instead of haptic - I honestly don’t understand why they wouldn’t put them in the M3P
they did an apple move. Tesla ran out of turn signal stalks and rather than ordering new ones, they called removing them a new "feature". (headphone jack, home button, vibrate button)
Tesla black seats are less comfortable than the white because the white seats are made from cactus and are super soft and stretchy where the black is just a vegan vinyl that feel thick and heavy.
Hey Michael, great video ... I'm considering a Model 3 Performance so really appreciate your honest views on that car and others ... thanks for posting!
I just ordered an M3P in Ultrared and I wish I could get the Panasonic one from the US but I have to contend with the LG pack which is identical to my 22 M3LR
@@Magnus_Magnusson_702 hello, they updated the rear motor. It produces around 400hp from the motor. It also has a higher peak horsepower curve. Tesla made a video about it on their channel. Believe it is called 4D2 motor.
@@officialmichaeltan Oh yes! You are correct! I forgot about that. I have a 2020 Performance, I just paid it off and I love my car! I am not sure about taking the plunge into this new one or just keep what I have. I really don't care for the wheels on this new model though!! Thank you for responding!
As far as the turn signal problem. I've discovered that resting your finger or thumb on the buttons causes the sticking issue. Apparently, the buttons have two states: one is touch, and the other is pressed. For some reason, when you leave your finger or thumb resting on the button, it's either perspiration or oils from your skin that confuse the computer and thus creates the "sticking" button issue. I've consciously kept my finger/thumb away from the turn signals until I needed to press them, and I've had no issues since. Give it a try! Hopefully a software update could eventually fix that issue.
Got sick of it all together and installed the aftermarket stalks and couldn’t be happier! Feels just like my Model Y and no more having to take my eyes off the road to swipe up and down when trying to park and signaling.
There a thing I realize with drag racing the plaid, I’m not talking about driving it in irl but like watching videos, so I realize like when the plaid is gonna start going fast the head lights usually jumps.
First, oversteer is slow 😊 Second if you’re not using the brakes to slow yourself when entering the corners you’re not going fast enough. Practice threshold braking to get a feel for the limit of the tires and car when entering corners. Trail braking into a corner helps you set the car into the line you want for approach. Remember to look down the track and through the corners. Avoid staring directly in front of your car or the back of the car in front. The faster you go the further you need to look ahead. Lastly, try carrying your speed into the corner trail braking while trying to apex later in your turn. Applying the accelerator exiting the corner. Smooth inputs are faster than abrupt inputs to steering & braking. I hope this helps. Great video! Thank you 🙏
What did the edges of the tires look like? That'll give you a good indication of "ballpark" do you have too much or too little pressure in the tire. Curious to see what that'd be like on a car with 4000lb of heft. My old Miata was 2034lbs after much "adding lightness" but obviously lacking torque. A single temp of the tire isn't of much use. If you have several temps across the tire then that'd be of use.
@@officialmichaeltan The best thing to do is schmooz with the instructors and ask them about tire temps and how best to find it. Chances are they've had enough time with similar weight cars like the M3 to get you in the ball park. Some chalk or some "sneaker whitening goop" on the top edge of the sidewall will give you a good indication of how far the sidewall is rolling over. You don't want to eliminate this entirely by pressure adjustment alone, but it's a super simple way to check to see if your lead sled is going further than you'd like on the tire sidewall. A big circle dab on the top of the sidewall will do ya. Of course the other thing to look at is tire wear. What does it look like before and after the session? Is there much change? How does the tire wear on the track Vs on the street (over time). You do both so you have to take both into account but they may not be as mutually exclusive as you think. If you find the outside 1/4 wearing faster, if you can, dial in a little negative camber - if the Model 3 has adjustments via a cam bolt or similar. I don't have one so I wouldn't know. If you can it becomes a game of balancing the camber and toe and the tire pressure. With a bit more camber, you need less pressure to keep the sidewalls from rolling. Get a reliable temp probe and measure temps across the tire and see. It's easy to do. Temp and depth probes and pen/paper provides useful info - it's super simple yet very informative. Once you have data, if you can''t figure it out yourself, you can also chat to someone that can but without data it's all completely "subjective." If you tell someone "the back end is loose" there's a million reasons why. If you tell them, "my temps are this, my wear is this and it's loosey goosey on the rear" they can make a more informed reasoning on camber, toe and pressure. To be honest, I'd be tempted to set the oversteer/understeer slider in the middle at zero and sort the temps/wear and tire pressures first and leave that digital goodness until later. I've got a few years until I get one of these - set my main goal to pay off the house first and then have some fun. I do miss track days and especially autocross. It has been said that a could autocrosser can always track well but a good track guy may get lost in an autocross. Maybe give SCCA Solo2 a try. That'll give you ample opportunity to get good tire data and at very low risk of damage.
@@officialmichaeltan I'm still gonna buy new, just wanna pay the house off first before I get another car payment. I'm starting to get used to a life with fewer bills and after 30 years of hard graft it's actually kinda nice. LOL I raced Autocross for quite a few years. Just like with any other sport or hobby, if you want to get better seek out those with a ton of experience and ask. Most people at national level are often quiet and reserved until asked cool techie questions and then, as they used to say back in England when I was growing up there "they'll talk the hind legs off a donkey" and give away all but the most of the top tips. The reason i didn't mention getting into replacing things is that if you can get the camber/caster/toe and set the tires at the optimal pressure then you can concentrate on the really important thing: the nut that holds on the steering wheel. No, not the nut under the airbag, the driver :P Seat time, seat time, seat time and more seat time. Go find local autocrosses from all different organizations and drive them all. If you like being out all day, see how many different classes the Tesla can be in and drive all of them.
I’m 6’3 195p pounds and the seats are good but nothing drastic compared to my old model 3 Performance. I still move around a lot when making turns and don’t stay in one place.
Junk one trick pony cars. My neighbor has one and the front brakes are much smaller than my rear brakes, even though my car weighs about 100 lbs less. No 4,000 lb 500 hp performance car should have bicycle disc brakes. Better pay another $15k for carbon ceramics if you really want to run more than a few minutes on a track lol
Recently went to a Polestar dealer and man was I impressed. Yes, they are a little slower and have shorter range, but the build quality is impressive, so is the industrial design. I ended up with a new Model Performance because of the tech, and driving dynamics of the car, but the Polestar 2 or 3 were my second choice. Seeing more on the road too. We need these EV companies to thrive and hope people give these wonderful cars a chance.
800lb lighter, stiffer suspension, better stability. If you throw carbon ceramics and upgrade the brake fluid the M3P would be really good. The plaid is a beast but unwieldy
Inertial dynos usually estimate the transmision looses, and provide engine power figures. If you can try to do that with an EV, as they have regenerative braking and no clutch, you will overestimate the looses and you will read at least 100 extra hp.
okay first off, please post lap times. it gauges the driver experience and also capabilities of the car. you can't give a "track" review without this. you should really preface it if you are a novice driver or new to the track. which it does seem like. to me and a few others in the comments. it seems like a parade lap for novice beginner drivers + too much traffic. talking about Gs or noises and talking about from an authoritative viewpoint really doesn't help the perception either. Just all types of random feedback that exposes ur inexperience. you keep mentioning tire screeching which has nothing to do with performance which is very annoying to someone that actually tracks. you should retitle as "My first track day" or something instead of "review" as if you are an authoritive seasoned track pro. you are in no way reaching the capabilities of the car which is why nothing is overheating for you and pardon the french "talking out of your ass".
Finally, one other person on RU-vid who understands dynos and how you can’t compare between dynos on different days, and what the purpose of dynoing is. If I had a dollar for every moron who compares what someone got on some other dyno on some other day to what I got, lol.
