I am the bike noob - I ride an MT-07 (Dennis) daily to work and for lols on the weekend. Since passing my bike test in 2017, I've been obsessed with all things motorcycle. I've been putting a range of products to the test and giving my personal, unbiased opinions on them.
@@muh4kt you want to make sure the bike is 100% cold when you do this - you don't want to be taking the radiator cap off when hot, as hot coolant can come shooting out of there and burn you! You'll need to run the bike up to temperature after you've changed the coolant. Always wait for it to cool before messing with the rad cap though!
I would just wind the new studs in by hand, with a little bit of copper grease on the threads. I am in the process of making a video of fitting the exhaust - I decided to get some titanium exhaust studs in the hopes that I don't need to ever deal with rusty studs again! I'm glad it was helpful for you!
@@thebikenoob I just bought my bike and after a week or so I noticed the chain wasn't running smooth. So I removed that front sprocket and it was PACKED with rocks, dirt and grease... It was difficult to remove the sprocket because of how full it was 😂 I don't think the previous owner ever cleaned it...
Haha! Im working on my xsr700. Cracked oil pan so the exhaust has to come off. Its a 2016 bike and bith the bolts and the studs are rusted to shit! Ill have to lookin to getting that impact stud remover!
very good video thanks, just one minor point. when holding a torque wrench you should hold in the middle of the handle as this does make a difference to the applied torque. Its due to the internal mechanics of the wrench many people don't realize this .
@@thebikenoob your welcome . There is also a post on you tube which explains why its important and goes into the ratchet mechanics . I didn't know myself until i bought a brand new one and read the instructions properly.. All the best and safe riding .
Hi mate. Question. The thread should be 10*1.25 from the banjo side. What about the connector between the hard and soft lines? I have to replace the front line (from the front pump till the hard line connector which goes straight to the abs cpu). So from one hand should be banjo and from the other side should be a female thread but I don't know which one
From memory, there are only hard lines on the rear (7:43 ish in my video) if you have the ABS model, like mine. If you are only replacing the front lines, you should have two lines which go to the ABS pump, they have banjos on both ends. In the kit I got from HEL, they had a special block connector on the hose that was threaded to accept the hard line. I hope that helps!
I had to send mine back as one glove stopped working. Just sent my second pair back because of the same problem. Stopped working on the coldest of days which is what I purchased them for. And defo not waterproof.
Tell me about it! I noticed the sale price on sportsbikeshop dropped about £70...no doubt trying to get rid, ha. Heated grips are next on the agenda...
Hi! I can't find the size of those cover bolts anywhere, could you tell me or either guide me to a place where all the bolt sizes are mentioned 😅 Thanks!
Hey - sorry I've only just clocked your message! The OEM part number is 90110-06395, hopefully that helps! If I get a chance to measure them I'll bung you the info
Great video, probably good reference for XSR700. MY Experience of using a vacuum bleeder is that it draws air down the outside of the threads of the bleed nipple instead of pulling the fluid fron the reservoir, making you feel like you have masses of air in the system. Opening the bleed nipple, and leeting the fluid self prime through a tube to start with gives a head start and then continuing with the open nipple and compress lever, close nipple sequence always seems to work best for me. Looks like you did a great job fitting the lines, how did the brakes feel after the conversion?
Sorry, I decided to delay the upgrade. I had fuel pump issues and recently installed Quantum Fuel Systems pump. I'll look to do the upgrade in a couple of months. @@Cheskaz
@@Cheskaz Cheers. Much appreciated. Would definitely love to know. Hoping to upgrade the lines next month. I'll you know, if you haven't got the details by then
@@rrondomi5898 I've just bought 1L of mono-ethylene glycol based concentrate. Granville Zerocol 12. not sure about the Yammy coolant but their oil was expensive. Went with Motul 7100 for that.
I didn't need to bleed the system - I ran it up to temperature, didn't see any bubbles in the reservoir and all was well. The workshop manual doesn't mention bleeding either!
Hey Timbo! - they are £180, so you could probably get grips and muffs for the same money or less, but then there is more admin involved in fitting. I'm tempted to try the grip/muff combo next winter to compare, but muffs do make your bike look super lame!
no! I don't ride particularly hard, adjusted the chain when needed and the teeth aren't hooked or damaged. Just changed the chain the other day, sprockets still look fine, ha
I'm thinking fit the brade hose in my yamaha tracer 900,2015 ABS.. I got information from the company saying doesn't need setup the ABS in my bike... I bealive could be very similar the installation.
use harpic initially, then polish with solvol or similar. once polished keep on top of cleaning and pipes will stay bright. (done this with MT07 and ER6n and both look really good)
My experience of the GT Air II mirror yours - particularly with the water ingress, which is a nightmare on a dark, wet, winter night 90 mile commute. You can’t see anything and you can’t wipe the rivulets of water from the inside of the visor. Disappointing for a premium price helmet. Thank you for your review.
Not sure if you tried adjusting it, but I fiddled with the mechanism and finally seemed to get it to close enough to stop water getting in! I do wonder about taking it to a Shoei specialist and see if they can't do a better job of adjusting it...
Thank you @@thebikenoob for taking the time to reply. I have played around with it - I even milled some big holes over the adjusting screws on an old visor so I could adjust in situ. It is certainly better, and if I coat the seal with the Shoei silicon oil, that helps a bit too, but it still leaks. The frustration is that I bought the GT Air II as I had the same problem with the original GT Air that I owned, but I was convinced by the retailer that the II had a vastly improved sealing mechanism. It is better, but it is not fixed. I have owned Shoei's all my life, but I feel that this problem is unacceptable to the point of being dangerous as the ingress water saturates the PinLock and you quickly have no choice than to ride with the visor up - hardly ideal at motorway speeds, in the rain at night! I would cut my losses and switch to another brand if a) I could find a brand that fits my elongated, 'Shoei' head, and, b) I had at least some confidence that another brand would be any better! I watched dozens of Shoei GT Air II RU-vid reviews before buying - why doesn't anybody put them on in the shower to test the critical feature? Thanks again for your video and your comment.
@@neilm58 this is why I wanted to put a review out - everything seemed incredibly positive, no one was mentioning noise or the issue with rain! Which leads me to wonder if I just got a very badly adjusted visor out of the box...I'm going to speak to Feridax and see if I can get any further with it. Good luck with your wet night time commutes!
@@neilm58 I've never had issues with water ingress under heavy rain with other, much cheaper, brands. Your experience is quite disappointing as I was planning to get this helmet. Good thing there are not many days of a big downpour where I live, but it does sound unacceptable.
