I tried following your instructions, which seem like the best idea I’ve seen, but I have one piston that just won’t move and wondering if you have any other advice to get it to budge? Thanks.
Provided you are going to replace all the seals in it, you could try soaking the entire calliper in some sort of solvent, or maybe ATF, or both, for a while and then try again. Maybe it will loosen up. That’s probably what I could try next anyways.
Great video with lots of patience applied. 2 days ago I couldn't blow out the piston from a 2010 CR-V using a rubber blow tip and compressor (as I have seen many do). Struggling for 30 mins, I put it back on the car and it still required lots of pumping to move millimeters. When it finally gave, it made a loud bang with fluid everywhere (I did place an old brake pad in front). The old piston was little pitted but not terribly and all that caused no movement. I will adopt your rubber hose adapter idea. Thanks.
Glad to have helped. Yeah, stuck callipers are an exercise in patience. Whenever possible I try to just install reman units, far less aggravating. However, that’s not always an option.
I find ripping sheet goods much easier on mine since I have it built into a long bench. I don’t have room for a large out feed table for my table saw so ripping plywood on it is much more difficult. I do find ripping smaller pieces easier on my table saw though.
@@JustFixIt99 Honestly, it doesn't get really get cold in the South Carolina low country...and I would also posit that not all hot glue is the same. The stuff that I use does remain remarkably flexible, especially in the ridiculous heat and humidity that we see for most of the year.
Sorry, this was years ago and I no longer have the bike to check. However if you look it up on a site like partzilla often they list the bolt size in the description.
looks great .... but like you said rust comes from other side also, so unless this process is done inside also ....which isnt possible from what i can see as cannot access inside .....just sayin
If you read through the comments this has been discussed at length. I’d suggest spraying the inside with a rust converter first. Several products out there that let you do that.
I am noticing more radial arm saw videos available over the last few years. They could be making a come back. Sad the disinfo that has been spread over the years. I have found, after 50 years of owning one, that cross cut and ripping is much safer than a table saw. If they start selling them again in the United States for the home wood worker, they should include a video. A big percentage of people will just go at it using their table saw routines and get into some mischief. And of course they blame the RAS. Instead of the operator. The RAS has many functions that can save you money in extra tools. But if you are willing to spend some time learning this tool, as you should any tool, don't buy it. Or any tool for that matter.
I think a big part of the resurgence is the fact that you can get a good one for less than $100 used, or often free. You can actually buy new ones still, King makes one, as well as the Original Saw Company. A big part of where I think people run into trouble is that they don’t realize you need to properly adjust and set up a RAS before it can be safely used. It takes a couple hours the first time and people just don’t take the time. That and they put a blade on it that’s not suitable for the RAS. There are still some ripping tasks I prefer to do on my table saw, ripping very thin or narrow pieces for example. However since I have a very small shop the RAS is able to remain set up at the edge, against a wall as suppose to all my other equipment which needs to be rolled out and set up. It’s very handy being able to use one machine to cross cut and rip quickly if I need to for a project. The reverse side is that since I have my saw built into a long work bench it’s far easier and safer for me to use it to rip down sheet goods. All tools have their uses and down sides. The RAS can be pretty useful for the cost though, no question.
good job but to be definitively efficient, you should put grease everywhere. grease et the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind bumper, behind (inside the car) the repair you made (everywhere inside this hole before reclosing it ), hollow areas... For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year.Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france
Thank you! Going to try this now. I spent nearly a full day trying to get two pistons to decompress that were stuck all the way in the bore. No edges showing to grab to and obviously brake pressure was not doing the trick. I tried everything. That air compressor “adapter” setup seems so obvious now but I think it’s brilliant. It never crossed my mind.
There are no absolutes in life, but I’ve never heard of bad tail light seals causing exhaust fumes to enter the cabin. That’s almost always caused by an exhaust leak somewhere in the system.
Unfortunately this products works well for a short term. I have purchased 2 over the past 4 years and they both quit working properly with variable speed. No parts available to fix this problem. Consider this a throw away tool.
These molding cutters work great. I had a company back east grind some molding cutters for me as I had to match some older trim that was no longer available. A little spendy but saved me in the long run.
I picked up the bigger brother the RX-770 on Offer Up for $40 because the display didn't work. Found a 2 pack of bulbs on ebay for $9 shipped, super easy to replace. I used it for my main 2 channel setup for about 6 months then ended up selling it on ebay for $280 :) I liked the sound of it a lot honestly, pushed my Klipsch KG 4.2 perfectly, but I just liked the sounds of my Marantz integrated better with more detail and smoother high end.
Great Video Sir, quick question, I i 2018 have Lincoln MKX could the water under the passenger sear and back sear also come from truck leak ? There's apparently no sign of water there either but the water is under the carpet only.
The water in the rear seat floor under my carpet came from the trunk. Another common spot that could be your leak is up under the dash. Often water drains plug and water Weill leak back in through the HVAC ducking. It will leak down under the carpet in the front and run to the back.
Hi All. We have tried a trick with success when using an ultrasonic cleaner. Instead of filling the whole cleaner's chamber with solution place parts to be cleaned in small poly bags then dip them into the chamber which is filled with plain water. Cloudy ammonia works very well on brass - the clock boys use that.
Nope.... I got new seals and also used weatherstrip seal gasket maker all around the seals and it still collects water in the spare tire well.... everything else inside the trunk is dry as a bone. No idea where it's coming from. New trunk seal, new light seals, new license plate seals, and gasket seal.
I get what your saying. However I believe crown moulding is defined by being placed at the transition from wall to ceiling. Crown can be flat on the wall, or even on the ceiling. It’s not always at a 45*.
On mine just gonna get a piece of sheet metal and form it to the bad area coat inside the rocker with rubberized undercoat and back of sheet metal plate and screw it on prime and paint outside good enough.
The rubberized undercoat will not stop the rust. It will keep rusting and eventually rot out the area. You need to use a rust converter or rust encapsulating paint.
Educational video on repairing a caliper. Best of all, you added safety measures. As a former fire and rescue responder. I had to take a patient to hospital for broken finger from removing a motorcycle caliper piston.
I still have it, its still in pieces. I lost my workspace after my last video on it so I had to box it up and put it all in storage. I am hoping to be able to build myself a workshop in the next year so I can resume its restoration and finish it.
Very informative video. I have 2 Craftsman 10" Radial arm saws. One is a 1975 and the other is from 1981. The older 75 model is my favorite. It is VERY ACCURATE. I have a laser line sight on it. OSHLUN LG R-01 , I highly recommend you get one. It shows you EXACTLY where the left side of your blade kerf will be. I recently got a moulding head and 15 sets of blades for it WITH A GUARD. Again, GREAT VIDEO.😎🇺🇸
