Resources for products and skills you'll need to make your own gear. We design and distribute technical materials and components to help you make your own gear or grow your business. Including tutorials, product demos, interviews, and more.
I am so pumped for this episode! I wanted to submit some stories but I'm just starting out so I don't have a ton of failures so far. Maybe I'll catch the next episode. 😊
There's a lot of different products in this video. The goal is to show users how to hang a a bear bag using the PCT method. Check out the Loop Alien hardware mentioned in the video.
A bear bag is used to hang gear up in a tree so that bears and other animals cannot access your items. People often put their meals, snacks, and other items that might smell good to an animal in a bear bag.
Doesn't need to be a kit. It is not a useful technique without a sketch or explanation. Kits are of limited value anyway, because they are generic, while most MYOGers want something more custom.
@@billb5732 I can help provide a little more context for you. How this technique works is that after you build both panels of the tarp you can run a basting stitch that connects the two panels. After those are basted together then you bind over the basting stitch with grosgrain. That reinforces the seam and has surprisingly good water resistance.
This is going to be really burly for most shelter applications. Maybe look into our 1.6 oz Silpoly. ripstopbytheroll.com/products/1-6-oz-silpoly?variant=43872854212778
I made a few of these, then realized I had one in the set that had the zipper running right to left. To change the direction the zipper unzipped, I turned it inside out, removed the waterproofing tape, seam ripped the seams and removed the pieces of threads with tweezers, and shifted the positioning of the top fold to the bottom. Sewed it back up, taped it again, and when I turned it back right side out, the zipper ran left to right like the others. No problem at all.
I lined our wallets with an RFID blocking fabric. I’ve finished one, so here are my notes. I first stitched the fabrics together in the seam allowance, and then sewed the zipper tape to the fabrics unit as directed in the video. Folded the zipper tape back, and top stitched it, as usual. I then made an overlapping piece of RFID blocking fabric to sit behind the zipper by folding a width-long strip of the RFID fabric down the length, wide enough to cover just the zipper tape, and folded in the long cut edges about 1/4” so that they would be finished inside the stitches when I sewed the wide strip to the inside of the zipper. I put down another line of top stitching to secure it to the top side of the zipper tape. Once the entire wallet was all sewn up as usual, I had to tape the inside edges of the wallet because the RFID fabric frays like crazy. I turned the whole thing right side out and put some cards inside, and I thought it was pretty tight in there with the bulky seams, so for the next one, I’m going to cut the seams down to about half their width before immediately taping them. A fray with a very narrow seam allowance could be disastrous for the RFID lining. …though I might just sew a narrower seam, making the wallet a tiny bit larger to accommodate the extra bulk inside.
I DID buy the kit and will sew it up soon. I made one on my own about 10 years ago. I moved and for some reason I thought it was a good idea to give it away before I moved. WRONG! Then I saw RSBTR kit and here I am! I look forward to keeping this one for a long time!
@@RipstopbytheRoll - It’s great as long as you don’t sit down much, but I’m also a pretty small frame, so I think that’s most of it. I’d reached out to them a couple of months ago about making another buckle just scaled down a little.
Just finished my first packing cube. I’m an experienced sewer but not with much zipper tape. A tip: make one side of the zipper tape longer so that way one side can have the zipper pull on the longer side secure, then pull in the shorter side. I made the mistake of making them the same length then jamming the zipper pull on both sides at the same time. I wanted to kill myself! It took me 30 minutes to get it on! Once I made one side short it was much easier!
@@RipstopbytheRoll thanks. I’m on my second packing cube in the 3 pack and having trouble with the second zipper pull. I have to laugh because 1st one went on very easily. Though I’m short, I have wide thick fingers. Tiny things are challenging for me, but I like making stuff. I do take it all in stride.
As someone who began sewing their own outdoor gear 35 years ago, I am so impressed by the changes in materials. Lighter, stronger. Now I just need to order materials😊
Time to make outdoor clothing that is stylish for the girls. I have two melanzanas but would like to make other outdoor clothing with similar textiles,skorts and pants, camping robes that is ankle length, changing towels. once I get a hold of some of this fabric, all my friends will be in a fleece cult lol
That's always a great UL option. The daisy chain is another option for people that may want a more rudimentary suspension system. Great for new hammockers, kids, etc. The daisy chain is also great for other DIY projects where modular attachment points are important.
Hi Heather! Thanks for watching, for more info check out the Learn MYOG Alpha Raglan Hoodie Pattern on our website. We used a serger here, but many people use an overlock stitch so they can use their standard home machine.
hello so i ordered new backpack as a gift but the shoulder straps are short so do you think i can elongate it ?to add more length to it?( by shoulder straps i mean the upper part including the padding and all ,cos it is just covering his shoulders while the rest is just the straps without the padding...so it is not so comfortable
Hey! Thanks for listening. You could replace the straps altogether. However, that would be best done if you had some shoulder strap experience previously.
How do you like that Highlead machine? Is it the GC0518? A video series on the difference of the feed mechanisms and which are optimized to which fabric types appears to be missing from the internet ... I sense you all might be the right ones to make that. I'm perpetually weighing which machine would be best for my needs, and whether needle-feed, compound, drop, etc., are optimized to a specific need. I sense that needle-feed with DBx1 needles might be more optimal for projects like the one in this video over DBx17 needles on a drop-feed machine ... seems that the latter creates puckering and other issues, no matter what you do, with lighter (ultralight) fabrics. Optimal feed mechanisms by fabric / project type and where they work least-well would be super useful to me ... :)
@@joe_ferreira Hey Joe! Yes, Check out the ULTRA 200. It's lighter but still extremely durable. Here is the product page: ripstopbytheroll.com/products/challenge-ultra-200?variant=43872778059946
I own the Rugged Long Haul 50 L & the Ultra Superior Frameless 35L. Love them both. The Rugged Long Haul was my first purchase with SWD. Loved the way the pack feels like it just hugs my back. It really disperses the weight of the backpack & my back is so happy. Wish I can say the same about my knees. I was new to hiking & backpacking & I had some decent backpacks but I was never happy with how they felt or the layout of the backpack. I just accepted them till I decided that I loved hiking & backpacking & wanted to continue doing it. So I looked online & found SWD & loved how customizable they are. It took me a month or so to decide what I wanted & I did it & never looked back. Also they look badass & are badass. They also are very well made. I’ve thrown them around & have taken a few tumbles & no problem. They still kickin ass.
