Incredible series mate! I stumbled upon the series this week and I've been watching after work every night. Great to see how the car transformed into a racecar. I do like how you explain things and show the products. It's been inspirational, I'm keen to get my Pulsar race ready. Altho not competitive. Keep up the great work! Also I'm in Bunbury, so might see you on Collie in the near future.
@@helviopaixao5002 Thanks! It’s a BYP V3 gearset, 1-2 is Gear-X and 3-6 are mix and match oem gears. 2.313, 1.650, 1.355, 1.147, 0.972, 0.825, with 5.1 final drive.
In two minds, as I can't find 15x10s in 5x114.3 easily. I may elect to run 17s but with shorter slicks, equivalent height to a 225/50/15, not sure yet. Won't happen for a while anyway, need to save some money!
nice video bro. can i ask what you do for a living? i always wonder about people who can afford to get into motorsport haha. also dont know if you remember me i bought the b18 from your integra. things still chugging along nicely. peace
Thanks Jordan! I'm an Engineer, but there's people from all backgrounds out racing. It's expensive to do motorsport well, my DC2 is "cheap" relatively, but still costs a fair bit to run. However, it's remarkably cheap to just have a crack at track days and sprint events. Look up Shitbox Motorsport on IG, he's got a pretty stock VTiR and has a blast. Same deal with my Mazda 2, I've only got a few $k invested and it's a tonne of fun (and would not be last by any means at Speed Event Series). EG/DC2 is the perfect platform, just need coilovers, brake pads, brake fluid, a good sump and decent 15" tyres. Your car would go great
Before I got my EK Hatch, I used to track a Toyota Yaris - pretty much the same car as the Mazda 2. Was a heap of fun to throw around corners and make the most out of the 67hp it made on the dyno. Keen to see how the Mazda goes.
You're right, this was a very low effort video. Partly through laziness, partly through not wanting to stick a camera in my friends' faces. I guess you could say it was mediocre, man
Wow, just watched all your build video's. Just one word: AMAZING!!. You also inspired some choices for my 'humble build'. WOuld like to ask if it is possible to share the Excel file. I would like to build on your excellent overview and make one for myself. Even if it is not complete yet and has some minor changes... Hope it is ok. :). Will follow your success for sure.
Thanks! If you can send me a message on FB or Instagram (look up TechnoLogic Motorsport Engineering) with your email, I'll send through a blank version of the wiring spreadsheet
When the rear wheel is lifting its rolling over.. hence why outside rear tyres look like that. Address the lift and you'll have even wear. I personally think you should drop back on the front camber to -3. Another thing to note when widening your track width is the scrub radius.. see where you end up and add or lessen it as necessary
are the sensors the ABS pressure sensors that BMW uses?? or are they a different Bosch sensor? (I love the brake system so I am doing something similar on my 99 GSR) Thanks mate! @@technologicmse
@@joshmoline3802 yep that's the ones, they're 260 bar I think, I bought them directly from Bosch. Bosch do sell 100 bar sensors which would be better (more usable range) but they were more expensive.
I know this video is a bit old at this point but just coming across your channel. Not sure if anyone else has pointed out that your pci trailing arm bearings assemblies are installed upside down. It appears that the logo and arrow that’s supposed to be pointing up are actually printed upside down as well. Pretty odd. The toe link angle created by that would result in a lot of toe in during bump. Enjoying the videos so far. Nicely put together car
Thanks Evan, great spotting! I didn’t question the arrows during install, but looking at other images online I can see they are definitely upside down as the offset should raise the arm relative to the car, not lower it. Will get them swapped over 👍🏼
@@technologicmse just an unfortunate manufacturing error I’m guessing. The amount that toe sweeps inward during bump is significantly reduced with those bearings set correctly.
Yep I went for Plastics4Performance, not cheap but they are really nicely made. I went for 3mm (the minimum thickness as per the rules here), I didn't do the hardcoating. They do scratch super easy, like when cleaning the car
In my opinion E85 is a nice power gainer fuel but I hate how it breaks oil down to milk and if you don't have ptfe An- lines. Once used have to run Oct 93 to clean everything. Keep the videos posted brotha!
Probably, yep. If you're just running the engine off the ECU, R3 will be perfect. If you're running the chassis (all the lights etc.) off the R3 too, it's difficult but doable if you get funky with DPOs. I needed the PDM as I have a heated windscreen that needs 50A, and because I have heaps of sensors. A more simple setup would run fine just off the R3
@@technologicmse Yes! NO A/C simple set up.. I want to use the R3 as a kpro replacement and replace my oem fuse box to also be controlled by the r3. I have an idea of but to be sure what are "DPO'S" PLEASE? I also will be installing Aem type sensors( air temp, oil temp/pressure, fuel pressure etc ) is that on the ecu wiring side or for pdm??
@@shionnsr8684 DPOs are digital pulsed outputs, a digital switch basically. They switch the ground side, so you can supply multiple things from a single power circuit (the R3 has I think 10 power circuits) and switch them using DPOs on the R3. Yep those sensors will all wire in to the ECU, R3 has plenty of sensor inputs (AVIs and SPIs). Have a look at High Performance Academy's wiring courses, they're really good for understanding how to plan out all of this stuff
Must have been very rewarding finally driving it around the track! Sounds great, looks like it handles well, quite direct. Foot plates look very snazzy
I guess that car sat fore quite a while with an empty fuel tank. At least you caught it! ...Are you going to recondition the tank? or go with a baffled fuel cell? Car seems really hooked up in that tight circuit btw, great driving!
Yep, probably a good 6 months with empty tank. I’ll get the stock tank cleaned and re-sealed internally, I like the fitment of the stock tank compared to a fuel cell (got to chop up the floor to make them fit properly)
beauty mate. How much does it weigh? and how much you reckon the carbon rear hatch will take off, and you reckon youll eventually go with a carbon hood? Also, any plans for a flat floor or any serious aero?
As it sits, with half a tank of fuel and the passenger seat etc. in it, 1014kg/2230lb. Pretty happy with that! The carbon rear hatch and Lexan rear window will hopefully drop 10-15kg, and yep I'll go for a carbon hood at some point soon. Eventually the car will get a basic aero package with rear wing, front splitter and front diffuser tunnels, but I want to get everything dialed in as it sits so I've got a great baseline to show exactly how much benefit an aero package does or does not provide.
Congrats on all your progress! Nice to finally see the car in action. Curious how much rear brake bias valve adjustment you have left-- I have an OMP adjustable bias valve that has too much rear brake pressure on its lowest setting, may switch to the wilwood variant (even though the specs are the same?) . Good luck on sorting all the teething issues.
When I went out in the first session it was set to max rear brake, I wound it in to about half-way and it was fine. I've had good success with the Wilwood valve, sounds like something else is happening with your system though? Are you definitely turning the knob the right way? Silly I know, but it's usually the little things
@@technologicmse Yes, definitely turning the right way. My rear brakes lock up before the fronts in the lowest rear pressure setting. I'll investigate the issue further. Thanks for the input. Great work on your build! Chassis seems very composed right out the box. Good luck on the sprint!
Thanks! Nope, in almost all instances traction bars cause more harm than good. Only high-hp drag cars would need traction bars. For circuit cars, the extra suspension arm (the traction bar) usually isn't perfectly on-axis with the existing suspension pivot points, so it causes a lot of binding. Good compliance bushes (either hardened rubber or spherical) are all you need
@@ESherbinFox if you search "billet shifter cable grommet" you'll find them, I bought this one I think www.ebay.com.au/itm/183810740813?hash=item2acbf9524d:g:8G4AAOSwZ2VhnDiz&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Mhocnn9zHQfIRbY8c4cM2U%2B26TfRPuY7HA34O3LKA35pnFvTSRrCRTJAo3gxnxHi7%2FoVY9%2FVTMKR5hC1bXHs3a8BkcqI4wH0A3XeMCsRxyRiMVmnDPg6XxjKAaKtBBcl57w2myG5Xj2Du2gogSFvFG2VUx08ZQm7%2BVp3F0hEea0ozgixxaTkNPdVbSB6KrWpD4V4lBDJAeB%2FOqciZfHe9AlKo%2BExtWbyMsgjx9BpsOF9V07gHEfJ2JFvAVUnK6q9WgbzakUU9NQ%2BcDqQ017vi%2B9AvtyWCts6aVUSv4ml0DRhZdeillFU3wR8HhF6LDTDQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM5se-ovpi
