I have a 68 Olds I'd like to do this to. Did your ignition coil have a ignition capacitor on it? I didn't see one. Just wanted to make sure that stays or not when converting over.
I installed a Pertronix igniter in my ‘68 Cougar 25 years ago & it’s been flawless. By the way, get rid of that deadly fuel filter. Those are notorious for leaking fuel & potentially causing a fire.
Very cool. Very concise and well-shot. Thank you very much. (My buddy found a mid 70s V8 Dodge pickup on a compound he just bought. (A D100?) She looks to be in very good shape, and I was just wondering how to replace the old points on it. I mean, who has a matchbook on them these days?) Stellar work and thanks again.
Please heed this advice. I only want to help....This video is in error. You must use a clean 12 volt power line to the module! Connecting it to the positive on the coil feeds it a reduced amount of voltage and that's why they don't last. It must receive 12 Solid Volts. The original FoMoCo wire coming into the + coil is a reduced voltage. The Pertronix instructions say that both the module and the coil should get full 12V. Not the reduced voltage the original Ford wire suplies the coil when the key is in Run position. That is why so many comment that theirs failed.
Greg, you are a true artist. I talked to you before I did my conversion on my '66 and it worked out absolutely fantastic. Total success, especially with your videos and advice. Thank you!
That wont last long you want to run it to a key on 12v source youre coil positive with key on is at around 6v it will burn out the system sooner than later.
So doing this upgrade wont affect the resistor wire that is installed into the ignition system from the factory? That also looks like the original coil intended for resistor wire or ballast resistor!
You're better getting a good electronic ignition distributor and then use the module the electronic part to the coil aftermarket MSD or something. And stay away from carbon spark plug wires used the good ones you'll see a little circular coil type picture on the side of them those are the good ones.
Just did a video on the coupe to fastback conversion here are the needed parts. Before you build you need to watch this. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iKa3bt7Srso.html
I have a question I have a 68 chevelle I’m putting a mopar 440 in how can I do away with the ballast resistor? And if I can’t how would I go about adding one ?
Incredible craftsmanship. I did this to a 1968 coup to fastback for $6k. Made a video on how: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LHAEDTKOsgI.html
I happen to think this is an unnecessary waste of money. Having to replace a set of points every 10-15000 miles is nothing. I’ve owned a lot of cars with points and I have NEVER had to “reset” my points every 3-4000 miles. If that Chinese module fails in the middle of nowhere you’ll have a hell of a time finding a replacement. To me, anyway this isn’t an “ upgrade”.
I just tried converting my 69 Lincoln mark III to this 1281 pertronix system. The magnetic ring fits very loose on the shaft and just spins freely. It will not press down any further. I assume it’s supposed to fit much tighter? Could it just be a defective part?
Did he put the vacuum hose back on that he blocked off ? Must have just didn’t see it after set timing But Very good learn video. On a nice classic as well.
One of my life's biggest disappointments came in the summer of '64 when the exciting first Mustang I'd ever seen came to my Dad's wheel alignment shop. The car needed a bent right lower control arm replaced, and my Dad sent me into the stockroom with a part number to pull one (I was impressed that my Dad would already have them stocked). Then came the crushing blow as I examined the box... FORD FALCON 1961-1964. It was also about then I began to have serious doubts about Santa Claus...
