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The copper lines on mine are sweating so much in the walls. They have insulation on them but it still sweats. I can’t find anyone having similar concerns…
Is every inch of the copper insulated? If it is 1/2" insulation, and its thoroughly covered, you shouldn't be seeing pipe sweat. Make sure there are no gaps in insulation as well.
The AY models are not yet released. There are no visuals are data available as of yet. As soon as there is information available, we'll release a series about the new refrigerant changes as it pertains to Mitsubishi
Are you referring to a wifi controller or a thermostat that is wifi capable? There are other options out there but we have found Cielo to be the most reputable. You can always get Nest or Ecobee but it seems Cielo has closer ties to ductless manufacturers.
great question! It should be considered when sizing. Mainly the consequences of oversizing your system will be harsher in higher humidity areas. You want to make sure you are not installing overly sized units in your rooms because then the units will cool down the room quickly and turn off and will not properly pull out moisture fast enough.
@@gotductlessusa Thank you. That makes sense. Another aspect that might play a role in my own home is handler placement and room layout as follows: With the thermostat located within the airhandler, the desired temp is reached pretty quickly (heating and cooling) in the immediate vicinity of the airhandler, but not as quickly elsewhere in the room. Due to my living room layout, the airhandler is not placed in a central spot. (The system still does better than my old heating and cooling.) But now I am thinking about installing a remote thermostat, if I can find one that works with my minisplit. Do you have experience or thoughts on this?
Thank you for the video. Can I install the indoor unit with the line set coming out of the left side and out the wall to the outdoor unit? So looking at it from the front and the line set coming out the left side along the wall then outside? So I will not be drilling holes behind the indoor unit.
@@gotductlessusa it will go straight out no bending involved. The connection will be behind the indoor unit because it doesn’t reach all the way. So the line set will be running to the left not left rear <--
Thank you for the info. I have a 16x11x8’ ceiling sun room. Three of the walls are 6’ slat windows will the 9k be sufficient or should I get a 12k unit? I live in Chicago. I will be covering the windows in the winter with marine grade vinyl
Nice video. I would appreciate one going through the steps of install. There have been problems related to that install here at my housing development that I believe are related to connecticity. Thanks for explaining the component relationship of this 3 part system.During the Kumo Cloud iwreless install, the app asks for the installer ID. Can I bypass this? The HVAC company says I can bypass with 9999, will this work?
I believe there is a 10 digit code that is required but this is just a phone number. If they are a diamond contractor then you can use their phone number
Mitsubishi vs. Mr. Cool? Neither. Consider the EG4. It runs on solar panels or household 110VAC. Cools in summer, heats in winter, on solar panels. My electric bill loves it.
@@gotductlessusa Not just single room applications. Our kitchen and dining room goes from one side of the house to the other and it freezes both rooms. It keeps our central air and furnace from coming on during the day. If we keep the doors open, it will get into other rooms too. If my wife sits at the table, she will be wearing a blanket. Cannot use it at night as there will be no central air in other rooms at night which we need. This is why we do not have it connected to the household power, solar only. It definitely reduced our power bill. We usually get at least one $500 to $600 electric bill in the summer; this year we did not get that. The highest was about $300. Our high temps were around 100 degrees this summer.
Did a little reading in the manual and spoke with a couple more experienced techs- how involved is cleaning the blower wheel since, to my understanding, its resting in the "V" space above the evaporator coil
Mr. Cool warranty. Limited Lifetime* & 7 Yr Replacement* on Compressor + 5 Yr Parts 4th Gen DIY®s have an optional LIMITED LIFETIME compressor warranty*, a 7-year compressor replacement* warranty, and a standard 5-year parts warranty for the original registered owner.
No contact, the Mitsubishi is the winner. For the DIY guy, if they want to do it every 3 years, on the Mr cool system, more power to them. I'd rather have a system that I don't worry about for 12 years. One person commented on the audio quality, I have to agree.
Hello, I have a Senville SENL24CD/IX. I am needing to remove the squirrel cage fan but there is no access to the motor retaining screw. Based on the maintenance manual it looks as though the evaporator needs to be lifted up on the motor side to access the retaining screw. Unfortunately the refrigerant lines going through the wall will not allow me to raise the evaporator. Is this the design? It's basically impossible to do unless I pull the unit off the wall way high in the air just for routine service?
@@gotductlessusa I did find a video that shows how. It's a bunch of hard to get to screws and you lift the right side of the evaporator just enough to get a screwdriver in there to loosen the retaining screw. Thank you for responding. I will be replacing this unit with a Mitsu since the cleaning didn't fix it.
Does the position of the head unit relative to the outdoor unit affect the need for a pump? My understanding is that a head unit creates the condensate. We're getting varying quotes for a ductless mini split for a garden level basement. The head unit is on an exterior wall, about two feet above ground. So i assume gravity will take care of it. The line set coming out of the head unit, through the exterior wall, can be sloped. However, maybe the head unit being lower than the top of the outdoor unit somehow compromises that? I can't figure out why they are quoting for a pump. It's a well known, locally owned company. They just keep saying "you need it in a basement install"even after the site visit.
As long as the wall mounted unit is above ground level and is mounted on an exterior wall there should be no reason for a condensate pump. It does not matter if the indoor unit is below the outdoor unit as the condensate comes from the indoor unit and is not related to the outdoor unit. There might be another factor at play that you can ask about?
@@gotductlessusa the other two companies did not feel we needed it. We are also in an extremely dry climate (front range of Colorado) so I can't believe there will be much condensate anyway. We have a Mitsubishi hyperheat unit heating and cooling a finished garage: the condensate coming off that is barely detectable. I just wanted an outside opinion that wasn't affected by price. Thanks so much
I am considering at 4-zone mini split ( having 4 wall consoles ) to air condition 2 large ( 400 sq ft ) bedrooms and 2 small bedrooms ( 200 sq ft ) on the same floor. The LG offering - LG-L4H36F09091212 - has much better dialed down capacity as it can go down to 8400 BTU for cooling and 10080 for heating. A similar 4-zone system for Mitsubishi - MXZ-4C36NA4-U1 - dials down to 11700 for cooling and only 18300 for heating. This is very important difference as my two small bedrooms will have very light load particularly in shoulder season. But Mitsubishi has an advantage - they offer 6K btu indoor ceiling cassette and LG has lowest as 9K. Surprisingly, Mitsubishi has no min cooling/heating rating for the ceiling cassette, while LG does say that its 9K wall console has min cooling/heating as 4270/4600 btu - which makes it competitive if not better from 6K Mitsubishi ceiling cassette for small rooms. Do you think I should opt for LG option , despite Mitsu being perceived as higher quality product ?
If you set your remote controllers to Auto for Mitsubishi you would avoid this issue altogether. In our opinions and experience, we have seen less issues with Mitsubishi overall.
You didnt mention anything about humidity. If you live in a very humid area, it makes sense to slightly undersize the unit so that it runs longer and will dehumidy.
That is true! This is an issue if you completely oversize and the room gets chilled faster than it can dehumidify. This is especially a factor in more humid climates. thanks!
Is a 2x6 wall deep enough to run a line inside? I’d like to run the inline set inside the wall for a few feet before I could get down into a space behind a kneewall and run the line set out the end of the house in a traditional way.
A Btu was originally defined as the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of liquid water by one degree Fahrenheit at a constant pressure of one atmospheric unit. There are several different definitions of the Btu that differ slightly.
How far can I run the line set. I know that the more corners the line set has to bend around the shorter the total distance. Does this distance depend on the compressor model. I have a mitshabishe hyper heat.
Great video! I just installed a new Fujitsu mini split. Going to dump the condensate next to Condenser outside but leave a little space between both drain lines so I can check both flex lines from time to time to make sure they're both draining. Mark you're a great presenter and your videos answer alot of my questions. thanks for the great content! please keep the videos coming!
There is a fan option that is standalone. The indoor fan does run continuously when it is heating and cooling. That is why the system is efficient. It doesn't turn off and on constantly. Ramping on the fan is what consumes energy.
Thanks for the hyper heat specs. It would be cool to know how they acheive almost 90% heat when zero degrees. What’s the air temperature output at zero degrees?
It depends on whether the unit is trying to maximize its capacity. If you only have some indoor units working then indoor temperature won't change. If all of them are working then you would get a lower temperature in each room because your outdoor total capacity has dropped. The drop wouldn't be significant at 90% capacity.
As an HVAC sole proprietor I charge way more labor per hour to install a mini split that I would a furnace or an air conditioner. At least $1,000 just for me to get into an attic
@@gotductlessusa ALL heat pumps (and AC only systems) absolutely need gas lines, but these are for transferring refrigerant gas and liquid between the outdoor and indoor units - NOT fuel gas lines (natural gas or propane for a furnace). I suspect @Movie16Master was confusing the two.
It seems you just glossed over the fact that the Mr. Cool is 115V and the Mitsubishi is 230V. That's a *BIG* difference! That's also the main reason the the Mitsubishi has such better ratings. Pretty much all appliances run more efficiently when they are made to use 230V. Also many people who install one or the other don't have 230V at the location they want to put one in. I don't think you emphasized this difference at all. It also makes the other comparisons pretty much invalid, making this a REALLY _"apples to oranges"_ comparison.
That is actually a good point. Thanks for the input. What we've seen is people buy Mr. Cool mainly because they save on labor and equipment cost while still having a 7 year warranty. Efficiency ratings and such are an added bonus. But nonetheless you have a valid point.
Voltage makes no difference. The electric company charges for watt hours and not amps/current. A load wired with 120 volts and draws 10 amps will operate at 1200 watts. The same load at 240 volts will draw 5 amps at 1200 watts. The two things higher voltage does is allow motor loads to start easier and reduce the installation cost by allowing smaller gauge wire to be used.
Excellent video. I'm currently having a garage built, and I'm trying to decide between through-the-wall and mini-split for cooling... and maybe the one or two days a year I might need heat, here in Florida. The main issue with mini-split seems to be cost, and a big part of that is cost of installation, so I'm starting to understand why Mr. Cool is a bit pricier than some -- it's got nearly everything you need in the kit and the pre-pressurized lines allow self-installation, at least if you're experienced at home improvement/repair. Thanks for making this, it's really helpful.
Mini splits are great because its not very intrusive to your build. You drill a 2.5" hole and that is all, while a PTAC through the wall would require you to find an exact match sized unit if you need to replace it in the future. Plus, mini splits are more efficient to run so your utility bill will be less. Thanks for watching
If I have wi-fi adapters on all the heads and using the Kumo cloud app, will the system work if the internet service is down? It seems like that was the case the last time I used this system.
That's our fault! Bottom line: go with Mitsubishi if you got $$$ and want to have a long lasting system. Go with Mr. Cool if you're on a budget and want a DIY project :)
I am about ready to buy a mini split heat pump system. But don't know if I should get two 12K BTU units or a 12K and a 9K. Those I'm looking at are both Pioneer Diamonte series, so same features, same 19 SEER, etc. Either way should cover the 18,200 btus required to heat and cool my small home (that's based on only square footage… I may need at least 20,000 based on poor insulation and windows. The price difference of the two units (12k vs 9k) is only about $20 currently for the prices I'm looking at with Home Depot. (The 18K is $300 more than those and the 24K is out of the question for me.) Of course, I'd be happy to pay a little more to get the second 12k, ***** UNLESS THE 12K WILL COST SIGNIFICANTLY MORE TO RUN THAN A 9K.***** That is the important question that I need answered. A 12K would go in the larger Living Room/ Kitchen area; The small bedroom/bath area will get either a 12K or 9K. BTW: So far it looks more cost effective to get two units than to get one larger unit that feeds two blower heads. Plus with two separate units I'll always have a backup and I can shut one down in mild temps. Also one larger unit feeding two blowers will require longer lines which adds cost.
Running a 12k will not cost significantly more to run than a 9k. The real question is what does your space require. If you have poor insulation and poor window insulation then I would be conservative on sizing. The last thing you want is to spend thousands and it won't work properly or will be inefficient.
@@gotductlessusa Thank you so much! You say the 12K energy consumption will not be much more than a 9K. Is that true only for inverter+ variable speed compressors (because the bigger unit can slow down to operate like a 9K?) That is what I am interested in btw.
You can check the Mr. Cool website for contractors near your zip code. There will be contractors that don't want anything to do with it but that doesn't mean that is true across the board
They are essentially the same module. The 445 works with all the new Mitsubishi equipment that they have added to their catalog. Mitsubishi is only making the 445s now.
Thanks man! And we use Mitsubishi with tekmar thermostat, and always we have to use a relay for reverse valve OB, do you have another way to works no using relays? Thanks
3 questions 😅 this cielo max will make any non-wifi enabled unit, essentially wifi-enabled correct? or does the unit itself have to be wifi-enabled to begin with? 2- can one cielo max be used to operate two different heads? or do you need one cielo for each head? 3- can you wire this to the electricity cables that run to a traditional thermostat and power it that way? thank you!
the unit itself doesn't really have a way of being wifi enabled. That's just a nice way of saying the unit doesn't come with built in wifi. Yes, you can use the Cielo to make any ductless unit wifi capable. You need 1 Cielo per indoor head. We are not sure. It is a good question to ask the manufacturer. The unit is meant to be plugged into a 115v outlet and wirelessly connect to an indoor unit.
The Mitsubishi is not aimed at diy, however in the small size single head units they are diy adjacent, the units come precharged you just have to evacuate the linesets, which is not that hard, and the equipment is pretty cheap. When you get into the multi zone units from them they get exponentially harder for a diy install with having to add freon to makeup for your linesets and your indoor air handlers, vs the mr cool, which seems like its pretty much diy no mater what. The other thing to note is that decibels are not a linear scale, every 3 DB is roughly twice the noise, so every plus 3 is significant.
Mitsubishi is not a DIY system. Mitsubishi likes their equipment to be installed by a professional so they know the refrigeration and electrical connections, and start-up, are done correctly. There are large portions of the installation that can be done by someone handy but the final connections should be done by a professional. On the other hand, Mr. Cool is a fully DIY product for those customers that might not be able to afford a trade contractor (can be very pricey). Mitsubishi is definitely quieter than Mr. Cool that's for sure.
Not necessarily. It depends on zones. If you have an open space then you can do 1 large unit. Or if you have a master suite that has a bathroom and closet then you would just have 1 unit in the master bedroom and that would cover the bathroom and closet. Mitsubishi also has mixed options for multi-zones that allows you to use both ducted units and ductless units on the same outdoor. Let's say you wanted all the bedrooms to be the same temperature and the rest of the house to be ductless units. With Mitsubishi units you can do that. Mr. Cool you would need to be strategic with design as they don't have that hybrid mix option.
They are technically a Gree manufactured private labeled product. Many other companies use the Gree system so they are wide spread. The warranty is very high on central ducted units, offering a 10 year parts, compressor, and labor warranty (covering labor up to the cost of the unit).
I’m not sure where all this information is coming from, but I work with these systems almost daily. From my experience, Fujitsu is noticeably quieter than Mitsubishi, and their customer support is more responsive. However, one downside of Fujitsu is their ceiling-mounted units, which are more labor-intensive to install and have fewer features compared to Mitsubishi's ceiling mounts. Aside from that, Fujitsu is quieter all day long, their customer support is better, they are more cost-effective and efficient, and I have three supply houses fully stocked with parts and new units. I moved away from Mitsubishi during the hype when parts and units were nearly impossible to get for months. Now, I can visit my local Fujitsu dealer and get three heads and a condenser the same day. As for durability, the tests seem to favor Mitsubishi, but I haven't noticed any significant difference between the two when installing or running them over time. While I’ve seen more Mitsubishi units break down, there are also more of them out there, so it might be an unfair comparison. All in all I think Fujitsu is the way to go and that's coming from someone who has installed and serviced them both.
Thanks for the feedback. This information is coming from the manufacturers themselves, our employees' experiences, and our experiences of selling 1000s of units for both brands and having to deal with warranty on the backend. Yes, Mitsubishi has had stock issues but Fujitsu has suffered as well especially this summer with the looming refrigerant changes. All in all both are reputable companies and this video is meant to compare information and let people make their own conclusions
I have a hyperheat system and kumo cloud. Installer for the second set of units i got did not install the thermostat. I'm wondering if I should just get the MK whatever thermostat that comes with the unit or just get this since it's cheaper?
You can buy the MHK2 but the installation is more tedious and you'll pay more. The Cielo would be a cheaper option and easier installation. Plus it comes with wifi if the second set of units don't have kumo cloud.
@@gotductlessusa Sorry i didn't clarify, all units have kumo cloud set up. Main objective is to have an in room thermostat for guests to tweak. I guess that's not necessary since i have the remote for all units plus Kumo cloud? Only other pro i can think of is the homekit integration. I don't use amazon or google
I’m looking at a new house and they have already roughed in the piping and wiring for an LG system. If I was to move to Mitsubishi would the wiring be the same and would the condensate line also line up.The units are on interior walls so changing things at this point would be challenging. Thanks in advance.
I don’t know anything about the LG’s, but I can tell you this much about Mitsubishi’s the cost of a Mitsubishi and the install price was $9000 for a single head unit. I’ve had it for seven years and I’ve spent 6000 on repairs. And the unit has broke down again I am currently looking into a Blue Ridge or a Della system
The line-sets and wiring is 90% all the same. The pipe sizing might be different on 24k-36k indoor units. The smaller units 7k-18k are all the same. Wiring is all the same as well. The only variance might be on the high voltage line that runs to the outdoor depending on the outdoor unit you go with.
@michaelschroeder6256 It sounds like the contractors in your area are overcharging you for labor, and potentially didn't install the unit correctly if you are experiencing such issues and paying that much for corrections. The system is under warranty for the first 6 years so you wouldn't be paying for parts. You do pay for labor of replacement parts but paying $6k for anything is crazy.
