Tstat temp rating is a science. Depending on your climate a 160 is better than 180 in other areas 195 is better than a 180. The Tsta is only a door that allows water that is beyond the selected temperature to leave the engine. It’s the radiators job to cool the water. The Tstat or the radiator don’t care how hot the water entering the engine is. The Tstat is the engines exit door the water pump is the engines entrance door. So running a Tstat that is to low temperature can actually raise engine temperature. With a lower Tstat degree the radiator has less time to radiate the heat so the water entering the engine isn’t as cold as a higher Tstat due to water being locked in place allowing the radiator to radiate the heat and allow the water to cool. So a driver running a 140 Tstat in Phoenix AZ will overheat compared to a driver in Minot ND who’s running a 195 Tstat has an engine never going above 180. In AZ outside air temp over 100 takes longer to radiate heat @ 75mph compared to ND outside air temp under 90 @ 55mph on the same day. So in reality the AZ driver driving in 100+ temps daily may get an overall cooler engine running a 185 Tstat than his buddy driving next to him running a 160 Tstat. Furthermore engine coolant mixture changes warming/radiating values in water more than a Tstat does. A driver in Phoenix AZ could safely easily run a 5% coolant to water to drastically accelerate radiate times than the Minot ND driver who has to run a 50/50 mixture so not to freeze up in winter. Again depends on your climate and raw air temperatures on what will net the best results. It’s far more than changing the Tstat rating. The Tstat is merely the gate keeper, the radiator, coolant mixture, outside air temp, and airflow dictate how hot/cold the water entering the engine are. The Tstat only lets water OUT doesn’t care if water entering is hotter or colder than what it lets out. It just won’t close if water isn’t colder than Tstat so a Tstat to low will be just like running no Tstat. At first engine will not warm up to operating temp but eventually all coolant will be to hot and just like in the 60’s you’ll be steaming on side of the road
I had a shop do work on my car and it came back with $7000 in damages and it hurts my soul cause it was a gift to myself 2 years ago and now i gotta wait like 6 months to get it fixed cause i have no way of proving they did the damage and i gotta try to save up the money it was a real differential in the drive shaft to my 2019 scat pack
I’d love to do some of these mods eventually. I already got the air intake and bigger wheels. I think I got my eye on the 3.09 lsd next. I d heard good things about the swap and it doesn’t require a tune. I’m sorta trying to do stuff that doesn’t require a tune until I’m ready to jump in the deep end with mods. Super long term goal would be a cam and headers
Bro is it easy to fix exhaust bolts? I have boosted 6.4. i got a exhaust leak. But I can't figure it out the best way to check the bolts. Did you do at home or you took to the shop? I live in California no one wants to touch modified car here
Awesome video, 5ys later lol. Just got a 2013 with a 5.7 was looking into shorty's. Eventually going to do an mds delete and cam. thanks for the infor!
To say doing common mods like CAI, headers will lose power without a tune is incorrect. You won’t lose power because those things are engineered by volumetric efficiency, Then they may strap them on a test mule and dyno them but, when this test is done, it’s not always on an aftermarket tune. A better disclaimer might be, if you want to optimize performance, a tune will be needed. Engines are just a pump so, allowing it to operate (breath) as efficiently as possible will always show gains.
Donny how are you buddy calling out to San Diego I have a 2013 nag one RT slightly built it’s definitely worth the money to me just like you said in your video cars like the scat pack and hellcats are just way too expensive. This car is paid for and I don’t mind doing a little upgrades to keep me living a car even longer so money is not an issue Here in a couple months I’m hoping to save up was going to get the cam kit lifters in a gear on my 57. Do you think that is a better way to go because some people say the 57 is better engine and a 64 just lately I’ve been thinking about maybe getting a 64 engine and dropping it in . What do you think bud
What was your problem when your engine was binding when trying to mess with it with the breaker bar thanks ! Cause I’m having the same issue with my stall converter
So anyways, the real reason or the reason for the vehicle running At 203°F is strictly to keep emissions down because the hotter you can keep that engine is the hotter. You can keep those cylinders and engineers want to keep them as hot as they can without creating a pre ignition scenario, or pre detonation which could cause cylinder misfires. even with the added spark plug for each cylinder The engineers needed to ensure the hemi engines would meet stringent EPA regulations regarding emission controls. The truth of the matter Is the optimum operating temperature for maximum horsepower and performance is right around 180° temperature definitely not 160 as you were mentioning. When an engine is run too cool it could cause improperly atomized fuel from the fuel injectors to sit on the cylinder walls, similar to condensation outside of a cold toilet bowl in the middle of a hot humid summer. Not all of the fuel would be burnt which could cause some of it to be washed away during the combustion process into the crank case causing an oil delusion scenario. This would further breakdown engine oil a lot sooner than had the engine been running a little bit warmer not to mention the piston rings may not expand and contract as they were designed. This could lead to premature cylinder wear. Running 160° thermostat could also put strain on the engine oil by the coolant being cooler than the engine oil could cause a natural heat sink with oil doing most of the cooling and As it would normally.
lol do you really think he knows what you're doing in there? He probably has no clue? He may not even be looking at you? He may be looking at the car behind you? Maybe looking further past your vehicle? You could be on your phone for all he knows, or singing to a song. I wouldn't let somebody rent space in your head for free by overthinking, what someone may or may not be doing? Misinterpreting is the same as assuming and we all know what assuming does? Well, I sure as hell do! Ask me how I know? 😮
Maybe I missed it but I did not see a comparative before and after 0 ~ 60 or quarter mile time tests to see if what you have done has actually improved performance? Horsepower numbers are totally irrelevant if you cannot put it to the road, so at least Kudos that you covered tires?
What did you do about the fuel line being in a new location for the new intake manifold? I have an 08 5.7 with the 392 manifold and the fuel line does not reach around to the new spout. Any advice is much appreciated!
Hey, I havent written to you in a few yrs and have been watching a few of your vids. I had a set of Long tube headers from American Racing Headers installed on my 5.7L chrysler 300C back in sept. and had the car tuned via diablosport trinity tuner. I asked my local speed shop for a more aggressive tune and he suggested to get a cam and dyno tune. Ive always wanted to put a cam in this car and i think im going to pull the trigger and have it done. The speed shop said with headers, cam, cai and dyno tune that Ishould be making almost 500hp at the crank. We shall see. 😅. Im going to need a torque converter too, its a daily driver 5 speed nag1 so I've seen some cam kits that recommend 2500 stall speed.
