All things mini / micro RC. I will do tips and tricks, build videos, some bashing and racing, and just other cool stuff I find along my RC journey. We will focus mostly on sub 1/16th scale cars and trucks. Mini-Z platform, SCX24 FCX24, TRX4M, FX118, UTB18, Mini B / T 2.0 and even some Turbo Racing 1/76th scale cars and trucks!
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Thanks for this excellent demo. I have a question tho. I just got my first one which is a power wagon cab one with the same controller you seem to have. And lately it only wants to go reverse once in any given session and then never again. If I turn the controller off and on again it will once again only let me reverse once. I tried adjusting the trim and that didn’t help either. It wasn’t the brake function either. Idk what to do. Please advise
Hi, I just got this FMS Landcruiser and when i put it down i immediately noticed the wheels are not centered and always steering a bit to the right, I already tried the calibration but it still the same :/
Hi I just got My meus kit... I would like to paint the cage... Should I use premier... Or just spray it up with the color... What about the screw holes, Will they get block by the paint? Hi from costa Rica, and thanks You in advance Pura vida, gracias gente!!!
as long as you don't go too thick on the paint, the holes should be fine. Honestly, on my Meus ripper, i assembled the cage with all the parts i wanted painted and painted it assembled. You can use primer but even without, you should be good.
Hi I just recently bought the same MEUS Built-in Spring Shocks 58mm, loved the look but the problem I have is it is too stiff even with the extra softer spring it comes with... If I were to put one tire over my finger, the other tire is lifted off the ground, as if the shock will not compress at all. I filled mine with 30wt oil, and the car is stock including the wheels. Can you kindly advise if there is workaround? I would like my rig to be trail and crawl.
Just got one, all late to the game. I got a Tamiya Blackfoot when I was like 7, but first time I saw this kid in the neighborhood with a Losi I was so jealous! Meeeemmmorieees of the waaaaay we weeeeeeere haha.
Hey, I want to do rear steer on my trx4m, what do I do , I clicked becaue I was like ok but I realize they are diff cars, stilled watched, please get.back to me. Thanks
For the TRX4M you need to get a different remote, receiver and esc. :( traxxas stock electronics aren’t the best. (Or get a special module like the Bastens, I show in a video below) There are a ton of good options out there. You just need a channel 3 with 3 position switch (but that gives full left, full right and center) or even better mixing or a dial I have another video talking about 4ws ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-10YeeDYoe3c.htmlsi=HnLlqJgNMYHwAXzF
@@TheShopMiniRC I was looking at is INJORA MB100 ESC And 6CH Transmitter Receiver For 1/18 1/24 RC Crawlers, will it work where I can click a button to change it form crab to rear to front or to all?
I dont know about the 6 ch transmitter. I am pretty sure it doesnt have "rear steer mixing" where the front and rear both turn from the steering wheel... but it does have a channel 5 where you can turn the rear there or use the channel 3 3 position again.
Very nice! Does anyone make talking arm links for scx24 besides mofo? I was hoping for high clearance extended trailing arm links, but it doesn't seem anybody has made them.
@@TheShopMiniRC i may need to try it but use your fishing line crimp method. Hopefully the width of those balls fits, but i guess it's within grinding width? Plus 35mm would be great on the Meus LCG scx24 build i just did because it's too short. And so then the only thing would be the drive shaft, can't remember, do the these drive shafts fit the scx24 transmissions? Ehhh, it's kindof a crappy shaft because of the round hole and screws. I'll need to find something else for that. Hmmmm I could still find a drive shaft. Gonna have to follow a couple of your links! For links! Hehehe Thank you for the help, and awesome tutorial videos!
@@MrsRabbit8 yeah, the driveshafts generally work but they do have a full circle hole. You can usually make just about anything work with enough effort. lol
Just seeing this now but awesome video! It’s funny how you say that the wheels line exactly with the lettering. That’s how I came up with the size 1.8 and know everyone else who makes these just straight up copied lol. So glad chad (hardpark) helped and made the barrels and then started selling them. Had no idea they would get this big
Dual rate trims were off, I had no throttle by steering was fine. I could get the tires to turn with the trim, but not the throttle. Every other video said, esc or motor yet I knew it wasn’t yet didn’t know how to fix it. You saved me. Thanks
Sounds like the furi none tech does not actually check their products in real world setting. Thats pretty sad seeing how much these products are priced.
Knowing you're a Furitek guy now! 😛 Do you know what (comp) chassis i could run on my Cayman pro v2? Should i look for scx24/18 chassis, fcx24/18 chassis or can you do both or none?? Because down the line you want to try the printed upper chassis or Furiteks own scythe chassis. 🙂 Already thx again and great BTC video!
The Caymans use M2 Hardware. It basically the same as the FCX/Hobby Plus/Redcat/FX118 platforms but you would need to make sure the skid/belly plate lines up (or be able to drill new holes) The transmission is an SCX 24 and the axles are FCX axles. Shocks are M2 ball joints so FCX/Hobby Plus/Redcat/FX118. You could use an SCX24 chassis but you would need to drill out all the shock mounting holes to fir M2 screws as well as the links and skid (Basically all holes would need redrilled for M2.)
@@TheShopMiniRC Ah thx for this, this is an answer that is worthy!! So basically you can fit every chassis you would want 2, you just need to get an m2 drill bit and see what holes need to be bigger fot mounting th links and shocks. So its better to take an scx based chassis that needs the drilling then fcx/hp/redcat where your gearbox wouldnt fit because its scx base. Did i get it right? 😛
@@angelikakurowicka7182 well, the scx24 gearbox mounts to the skid plate/belly plate. That can be mounted in any chassis where you have the correct holes (or drill new ones). Same as shocks and links. The skid for the cayman is a custom/furitek specific skid. It’s scx24 transmission mount but their custom hole spacing and m2 hardware for the Furitek Grasshopper chassis. But yeah, you can kinda do what ever you want if you’re willing to modify.
@@TheShopMiniRC Thx again. So Furitek FCX/Hobby Plus/Redcat/FX118 platforms are m2 based, even the cayman with the weird gearbox combo of the scx. So its going for a M2 style chassis or an scx chassis you drill new m2 holes in where you mount the hardware. (Or just buy an 2nd crawler based on scx base 😛)
Howdy Ken! Hey, is that chassis that you're holding at 5:10 the Artemis chassis? I've been eye-balling that one. Did you ever build that out? I love these build videos of yours. Keep going! Have a great weekend!
Something to keep in mind is that an unbalanced cell almost always means there's a problem with the battery. Cells rarely get out of balance for no reason. Usually it means that one cell is charging or discharging more quickly or slowly than the others and that's not a good sign. Doing these kinds of things usually just masks the warning signs that the battery is trying to give you that it's failing.
I totally agree, which is why i mention that you should always watch that battery. We have had some batteries that went out of balance, and since we rebalanced, they have yet to have an issue and have been using for months, if not years later. On the other hand, we have had some we rebalanced and within 10 minutes the bad cell is off balance again. Those ones get the boot.
