On this channel I share all my random projects. I also have several free downloads that range from Real Estate analysis tools to pictorial instructions on how to build stuff. Checkout my free downloads at the link below and don't forget to Like and Subscribe!
This video is exactly what I needed to see. I’m moving into an apartment, where the landlord says I can paint over the last tenants work of art. They left uneven surfaces, bleeding and just horrible paint jobs in 4 of the rooms. I cannot wait to do this and make the walls better to look at.
I would caulk the bottom. However it’s up to you. I know the theory of if you caulk the bottom it will trap water. However if you have brick the weep holes in the bottom act as drainage anyway. Also, the bottom of a window sill gets a lot of water in a driving rain and water will get in.
I think you know this is not how caulking is done. Takes way too long, wastes tape and caulking, and does not give a good result. When you rip the tape off, it can rip the fresh caulking edge with it. Small tubes like this with small nozzles will not do a professional job. You need a large sausage gun with large nozzles. No tape. Those small guns can do bathroom caulking, that is what I use, but for large exterior beads like the bridge between window and brick, you need at east a 3/4 to 1 inch bead. You can't do it with those tubes or guns like the builders do it. I have done caulking repair for 35 years with those tubes, but it is not really a professional result and not how you would caulk a new door or window. This video shows how it is done professionally. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-By90PdmsODo.html
Those vents are called vents for a reason. Those vents are also cut to a specific size depending on the volume in your attic. You just reduced airflow by 80%. Congratulations
If you want to finish a side then you remove the side forms once the concrete is partially cured. Leave the bottom supporting form boards till fully cured.
Perfect video. I've watched a couple that left me shaking my head. This one shows the practical ways of getting from point A to Z and makes the most sense of any I've watched.
You only need to take a short amount of tension off the main lifting spring about 3-4”. Leave one of the tension rods in the slot and let it rest against the closed garage door. That way you don’t have to completely in mind and rewind the springs which can be very dangerous!
There are too many variables to give an accurate answer. Material wise just 10 bags of sand topping mix cement and form boards. Labor cost will vary drastically depending on where you live. A crew of 2 people should be able to complete in 2-3 days.
So I was looking at my RU-vid Studio today wondering why I haven't found time to make more videos and I saw that you are a subscriber on my channel. Dude, your channel is great but it looks like we're in the same boat as far as uploads. I'm making a plan to jump back into it and if life allows I encourage you to do the same, you're great at it. I just hit that subscribe button! Take care! -Brian
Thanks for the encouragement. Yeah I have 3 kids so it’s hard to find time. Shooting videos isn’t the problem, editing is. Love your channel by the way.
How do you recommend identifying where the floor joists are. My underlayment is also particle board and I’m wondering if that would impact sanding down the seems. If you see this thank you in advance!
I’m also very grateful for videos like this. I’ve seen a ton of videos about installing LVP and they always brush over the most important part: PREPPING THE SUBFLOOR!
To find the joists you can look at the nails or screws that are already there. If you can’t see them because another layer is on top, you can find one by measuring off of a floor register or something like that. Then one will be every 16 or 24 inches depending on the framing.
What caulk did you use? I want to redo mine. 5 year old house it’s already separated and letting moisture and dust inside. Need to do garage and windows.
The color cabinets I want and style didn't offer a farmsink base. I thought I had to choose a different one but here is this video! As long as my cabinet doors don't interfere with the sink, I can still get everything I want! And flipping the cabinet and sink over to mark it, well, genius! Also adding the supports and putting the screws on the outside of the cabinet before installing the cabinet is a great touch. No one will see the screws. Thank you so much for this simple easy to understand video!
Chimney flu is supposed to be min 4” extruding!And chimney is supposed to be filled solid with a 3/8” cavity surrounding the flu(to allow for expansion)!Just saying!🧐
The best way for a homeowner to do this in modern times is to use as much Quad Max as necessary, go slow, and not tool it. Tooling the sealant in this scenario with such ragged surfaces doesn't really make it look any cleaner, it just makes it smaller, and it'll fail sooner. Just put a thick bead of Quad Max down and move on.
I just ran a level across and made it even with the top of the cabinets. That way the countertop is completely supported. Most farm sinks have a rounded edge so there is plenty of room so seal between the sink and countertop with caulk.
Was the guy following you smoothing it with his finger using a screwdriver to push caulk into the grout gaps? Just wondering what that technique was. Great tips here!
Yeah. The screw driver helps get in the mortar joints when needed. If you spray the caulk with soapy water from a spray bottle then smooth with your finger, your finger will glide right down the joint and make everything smooth.
Mine comes from the floor and was sealed just pushed it all out sump pump my only answer just need a few days of no rain and this coastal flooding not helping
I am so baffled to how water is pouring into the basement? my basement is finished and water is seeping in under the basement steps through an inside wall that runs from the cellar to the living room??? I assume there's a crack or hole in the wall behind the dry wall at the steps??. The water that comes in is crystal clear not muddy at all?? This is puzzling to me to how it would be coming in through the wall without any mud?? HELP!!! Anyone have suggestions/? I do not have a sub pump my basement is really tiny.... IDK
Fist thing to do is check your down spouts and make sure water is being directed as far away as possible. Then look at the grading or slope of the property and make sure it slopes away from the house. Excess groundwater around a foundation will always find a way in. A sump pit should help as it will lower the water level by pumping excess away. It would be worth talking to a contractor about the issue.
Good job in describing your work ,though it seems like you've over-complicated a few things. I've been roofing for 25yrs and am still learning new techniques, but sometimes the old school way still works best. First, you're never going to be able to make a snap lock seam absolutely water tight, no one can, there's too much wiggle room. Go 1" dbl lock standing seam and you'll have no worries there. Second, put a 2" lap on both sides of the valley, that'll eliminate the cleats, and the pans can be folded into the valley itself. Third, when installing 1" standing seam, the pans are 20⅞" wide, they cover more area. Fourth, also when installing 1" standing seam, the angle change (transition) can be made right into the pan by fabricating the bend into the locks themselves with a pair of needle nose pliers, eliminating all that extra metal transition trim. And that's just the field, there are much simpler solutions for caps, hips, and stack (pipe) penetrations as well. I'm not going to go any further 'cause y'all know the difference in styles. These are naught but suggestions. Good luck guys! And thanks for the video!
That’s a slot to accept mulling strips. Mulling strips are a way to hold windows and doors together to create one big unit. www.google.com/search?q=mulling+strips&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari
@@HowtoHacks Good to know. I thought your technique was excellent and that there couldn't be a gap after such a good application. Thanks for the quick reply and great video!