Hi, which colored wire of the transmission is the one to start the car. My father is having problems since he changed the transmission with another one after putting in a gear box yesterday
Getting ready to replace the front shaft, torque converter seal on my 96 Camry V6, what brand of seal do you recommend I get, it's the A 541 E transmission, any advice would be appreciated
If you don’t already know debris shouldn’t be between your connections on your car or your light socket in the house or anything in the world that plugs together then drop both sides of the plug and immediately about face and walk away way way away and never attempt anything in life again cuz you my friend are an idiot
Very good pointing information that's overlooked a lot I noticed that a lot when I started working on my truck. I thought the same thing when taking these connectors apart they can easily just go into some Grease because everything is dirty and greasy from being so old so it's pretty much if it's not sitting and going to move and hit something it's going to get into grease and be dirty. My transmission was running pretty good until I had somebody do my oil pan and they put the transmission connectors back and I pulled them back apart after doing a fluid change and they were all dirty with grease same kind of thing that I would have never let happen now I'm looking at more transmission problems electrical on a 4L60E 2003 Chevy S10 2.2. So now what I'm doing is I'm replacing that internal wiring harness because it had a PO 798 or 748 code I don't know it's a 2-3 downshift solenoids are replace that so annoyed with the factory AC Delco part seem to fix the problem kind of temporarily but that just keeps coming back it's like pretty much every morning or whatever I get back and I got the check engine backlight on warm it up turn it off warm it up turn it off warm it up turn it off and clear the code and clear the code and clear the code once the codes cleared the transmission runs great but once that fires up and it throws that coat it starts pumping like really low has no power etc. so now in the process of doing this I actually got a new harness but it has a slightly different plug on it on the 4L60E so I'm wondering if I can just take that old plug off the old harness or better yet even find a new plug and just splice in with heat shrink and butt connectors I know it's probably not recommended but I don't want to have to buy this whole new harness part just for this one plug that's on it that's different.
Hey Boss, I got a problem by washing engine and automatic transmission! No any code on scanner. It is a Nissan pathfinder 1998 3L v6 petrol The car drives but changes first to second gear at 5k RPM ! Any help and advice please??? 🙏
It appears that the torque converter in your video is leaking. Is that normal? The reason I'm asking is because I had to remove the torque converter with the engine (engine was locked up) and I noticed that the TC leaks fluid when held transmission side down. I'm curious as to whether that's normal or if the TC is damaged. Thanks!
Can the shift linkage cable (or shifter cable) cause gear timing or selection issues such as the speed measured by input shaft speed sensor to be different from the speed of the engine, and therefore TCM/PCM to report "Input Shaft Speed Sensor No Signal" error?
yeah that's how my whole Chevy Tahoe is built ,... all plastic everything and it falls apart if you sneeze on it. my 2008 Chevrolet Tahoe is a piece of junk and it's probably the last Chevrolet I'm ever going to buy
Kinda gettin pissed ngl. A million videos on the stupid bushings cuz it's an easy video to make for an easy an obvious problem. You know what isn't easy and obvious? How to actually do the replacement! Does your cable go through the floor or through the firewall? What electrical connections on the shifter itself need to be made? Can cables snap on the inside of the jacket or lose their tension? If you're reinstalling a transmission should the cable be in park or neutral? Is the only thing that keeps cables from being interchanged the linkage and length or are their other factors? THESE are what I want answers to. Not the thirteen hundredth "your bushing could be loose" video
Absolutely bloody agree. My shifter cable, being an old GM design, has NO plastic bushings; it's metal on metal all the way from the column to the transmission. The cable has started binding, probably due to excessive heat, and I want hints on that, not the 1,000th video on plastic clips or bushings.
BMW with ZF 6hp transmission have "Rock free from snow function" You can swap from D to R in an interval of 0.5 seconds to rock free the car from snow.
It should be illegal for manufactures to put such crappy parts in their transmissions!! This is a safety concern! Because you can’t accelerate away from danger if the transmission is slipping badly!
Another installation question. I just put in a new torque converter in a 42RLE. The transmission mounted fine and the converter bolted to the flex plate fine. However once the transmission bolts are tightened to the housing you can’t spin the flex plate. It’s locked up. Spins fine with 1/8 to 1/4 inch of space between trans and engine housing. Do you have any ideas?
@@AFAnthony I did. The torque converter seats inside the transmission. You have to spin the converter and it will notch inside 3 times before it’s fully seated. If you only get it in say 2 times it will be sticking out to much and it binds once you bolt it up. When installing it just make sure the converter is fully sunk in behind the edge of the housing. It was my mistake.
@@patriotfox7192 i put the torque convertor in heard 2 clunks a small one and a big one maybe i got two in one it was pretty well in the bellhousing i bolted it up no issues but the the flexplate is always hard to move anyways once all bolts are in i can spin it but it requires a bit force is that normal i just dont want to start it and then go boom (thanks for the response btw)
@@AFAnthony yeah the flex plate should turn with resistance because it’s moving the pistons. just like spinning the front main pulley. It won’t spin free but the same resistance as when you unbolted it. It would be almost impossible to spin if the torque converter wasn’t seated all the way. Like really hard to spin.
@@AFAnthony yeah the flex plate should turn with resistance because it’s moving the pistons. just like spinning the front main pulley. It won’t spin free but the same resistance as when you unbolted it. It would be almost impossible to spin if the torque converter wasn’t seated all the way. Like really hard to spin.
I put a new pump seal on a AW71 (using a AW70 converter) then installed it in my Volvo. I used a few drops of Lucas ATF additive oh the hub of the converter/seal surface. The trans worked great for 25 miles then began to leak from the converter to pump area. I can't see that the Lucas (which is the viscosity of STP) could cause this. Also the car didn't leak for 45 minutes running on the lift... Any ideas?
Just taken out my auto box. The flex plate had a crack all the way around. Now I know why. It has been out before so I guess it wasn't lubed properly. New Plate is on order so I will follow your instructions.
Hi J&G I'm looking to restomod a '69 Volvo 164 witch has the very inefficient BW-35 trans. What do you recommend for better performance that can handle around 2-300hp (tuned original B30)?
