Recently got a Walnut pair of 3010i speakers. Combined with a sub, VERY impressive. Haven't tried the 75-85dB bass test yet though. Might play the bank scene from HEAT to scare the neighbours.
How come you didn't play a single female and male voice? that's how you can tell a good speaker from a bad one since we know what the frequency of the vocal should look like and it's easy to tell.
Someone said that the marantz cd 6007 does not have an eject button on the remote control. So you have to bend down twice! The yamaha has it on the remote control. Also, the marantz is always on stand by, even when you have pressed the off button. So you have to you unplug it!!
I hope all the types of physical media that are being produced today NEVER stop! I collect record albums, cd's & even cassette! I love each one & enjoy them all in their different ways. I actually have decent equipment to play them on, so that's not an issue. The only issue would be if they stop making records, tapes & cd's!
Crutchfield had Wiim Ultra listed with expected arrival date of July 5th. Yesterday I noticed that date has changed to Aug 10th now. Audio Advice has it available for Preorder also, but just shows expected date sometime in July.
hi im going to buy a 2nd turtable to play my very old 45s as my main turtable is just for new vinyl im looking at the at lp60 so can you tell me how to connect to amp as i use phono for main tt regars gary
The LP60 has it's own built in phono stage. Set the LP60 to line, then plug it into any spare RCA input on your amp. I believe it comes with the 3.5mm to RCA cable.
I choose A, the NE5532 op-amp as the sound is more natural and transparent; however, the amplifier was designed and tested using the venerable NE5532 op-amp, which underwent rigorous testing and measured well in the laboratory, with meticulously selected passive and active components for the best matching, though changing op-amps to another one, such as the OPA2604 FET op-amp, seems a good idea but must be measured for generated noise and distortion, as it is the surrounding circuit in the op-amp that also determines the sound quality based on how it was designed, the degree of transparency, nuance, and timbral accuracy, and since the amplifier was designed using a bipolar op-amp, the NE5532 was chosen.
Hi. Love the review. This may sound like a silly question, but when you connect via RGB, is the volume controllable from the ‘source/amp’ in tandem with the monitors? Appreciate your thoughts?
@@UTILITARIANTVUK Appreciate the reply. I’ll be considering adding a sub to my set up. My bookshelf units just don’t quite scratch my low-end itch, as it were… Thanks again.
The Martz has just a tad bit more clarity. Sony, has a muffled sound. Very, very slight though. Is it worth the huge additional expense? Guess it depends on how picky you are. With that said, I listen to all my CDs on a sony es dvd bluray player from around 2000 it not only sound great, but just beautiful to look at. Itsold for around $800 dollars back then. Just top notch quality. No way would I ever sell it. PS. Thank you for taking the time to do this great comparison.
Did you notice that the power adaptor is 96W, while they claim 2x100 W output power? :) In fact, the real output is about 25 W per channel. Still great (ppl usually struggle with log scale) but... I know "more stuff" sells. But... you know. Lying about one obvious thing rises questions about everything else.
Amplifiers: The controversy over tubes vs solid state presists. When response, modulation distortion and transient intermodulation distortion are below certain levels (< 1%) there should be no audible difference. Speaker wires: It can be solid, stranded, copper, oxygen free copper, silver, etc.--or even "magic" wire--as long as the resistance is kept to be less than 5% of the speaker impedance. There is no listening difference as long as the wire is of adequate size. Bear in mind, a well-designed amplifier will not have a problem with any of these wires. CD players: In the 1980's, people spoke of experiencing "no air" and "aggression" while listening to digital recordings. Today we understand the principles which are fundamental to this phenomenon, we name it Jitter, we test it, calculate it and dress it with numbers, systemize it and describe it entirely. Jitter has always been and still is the worst enemy of the digital audio format. And today it is understood. Fact: Digital audio data is 'just' 0's and 1's. There may be many formats (.wav, .aif, CD-audio) but the information is still digital. There is no loss during format conversion, provided the formats don't utilize compression. Fact: Copying CD's (if they aren't damaged physically) is a lossless procedure. You can extract CD-audio with your computer and generate a file on your hard disk. Compare this file with the file created when you extract the same audio using a $30,000 player, the resulting two files are identical. The question which naturally arises out of this paradox is: why does the $30,000 player sound better? Before we answer that question, let us first understand that at the Digital Out of a $100 CD-player we have the same 1's and 0's as we do in the $30,000 player. The only difference is in the Jitter content. Jitter only means that the data (the 1's and the 0's) is not perfectly time-aligned, but is transmitted either slightly earlier or later than it should be in the ideal case. However, this time flaw is not as great as to cause a digital error (data fallout). Now if you know that, then you must ask: so why does one CD-transport cost much more than another? Ah, Jitter. The cheap ones shake and the expensive ones don't. Well, that's true. The entire audio business of CD transports and DACs is built on the totally backward setup of the CD player containing the Master Clock and the DAC being the Slave. This results in the entire palette of innovations to lessen Jitter, starting from air drives to expensive digital cable technologies with complex math to reduce line-induced Jitter, to very carefully filtered power supplies, to all sorts of very necessary things when you want to achieve the least possible Jitter. So we have the worst possible digital scenario bringing in the most possible amount of money, because it is extremely difficult to annihilate Jitter when the CD player is the Master Clock. If you're looking for quality, this is stupid, to say the least! The whole setup should be different. As is the standard case in any pro-audio studio, it is always the playing device, the DAC, which is the Master Clock. The clock is located right next to the converter chips. That way, no line induced Jitter can appear. This clock signal is then taken from the DAC device and is used as the clock input of the signal source device, say the computer, the DAT player, or the CD player. Yes, in that setup, the CD player is receiving a more jittered clock than the DAC is, but that doesn't matter, because the DAC is doing the audio playing. When the Jittered audio signal arrives at the DAC, it is quantized into place temporally and is then played, in perfect synch with the clock oscillator, which is right next to it. But oh! In that case, you can use a $100 CD-player with a very poor power supply, a digital cable made from your average household extension cord, and still get a better sound than you'd be getting if you spent $30,000 on the best transport and digital cable! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, this is the naked, uncensored, plain truth about CD players and DACs. Their Master/Slave relationship is BACKWARDS and their prices therefore HIGH. If you don't believe this, then all you need to do is record digitally your favorite tune from a $100 CD player into your computer (provided you have a soundcard and software that doesn't add yet more lies into the equation, which is often the case, so beware!) Then borrow the most expensive CD transport you can get your hands on and repeat the experiment. The resulting sound files aren't just similar, they are identical! But the $30,000 player sounds better! How do you get them to sound the same? You only need to slave the transports to a DAC in Digital Master Mode. That's it. Identical sound, guaranteed. The least possible Jitter. The least loss.
Esos amplificadores son muy efectivos, pero al subirlos al maximo producen distorcion, de eso existe evidencia en youtube y lo e comprobado, lo mejor es a las (en sentido del reloj) 5 ó 4, despues de eso es distorcion, antes que eso es baja la ganancia. Yo te recomiendo que uses tu rotel como Pre Amp, le saca mucho mas provecho. y otro punto es cambiar los amplificadores operacionales, ya que los que trae de fabrica en intrumentos musicales con frecuencias medias-bajas se hace grumoso y no es notorio la separacion de intrumentos. Saludos por su canal.
I’m a physical media junkie as well as an obsolete junkie too! I still have and use laserdisc with over 2000 disc in my library as well as mini disc, HD DVD, Blu-ray and ultra HD and of course the standard CDs and LP records.. I won’t mention the Betamax 😂 and reel to reel tapes!
Hey Martin - hope all is good. So, I've had a few budget Chinese Class D amps... a Topping PA3s, an Aiyima A07max... and they've both come and gone. The differences between all these little dudes in audio quality is marginal, but they score heavily on their size, and price for a desktop set up. More than that? Nah, not really... compared to my Marantz PM6007 which I run for my desktop, and certainly not compared to my new Atoll In100 Signature for my floorstanders that has TOTALLY TOTALLY TOTALLY blown me away. But, I get it of course. The Atoll is a £1,200 amp, but it will be my FOREVER AMP until they wheel me into Shady Pines Retirement Home which has a "headphones only" policy. (I'm gonna fight them on that one). Stay well, my friend - Richard
No, just analogue, I don't need the DAC board or the phono stage, and I got a good deal on an open box unit. Hear one of these if you get the chance Martin, I'm hearing details from my fave music from the 70s/80s (CDs) that I've never heard before. It's like I have a new music collection! And as for the power... wow! At low volumes the amp is stunning too - you don't get that with the Chinese Class D amps, you have to crank up them to make them sound good. The Atoll In100 with your Lintons will be amazing, I'm sure! - R
@@Fidelity_SoundYour spamming this same comment to multiple users though, grow up. I’m guessing you’re one of the people who didn’t make it to the very end of this video 🤣
I tried to hear the difference between A and B but there was no difference at all. For what it is, I think it is a decent amp. Anyway, you wouldn't believe how obedient I am - every time you tell me to subscribe, I subscribe. 🙂
Thanks UTV. Very nice sound to be honest, both nice but A seems to have a tadge more refinement, and I did that blind! Just a smidge cleaner but noticeable in the high frequency's, smoother like you say. Hanging on to my WD 12.2s regardless, very nice speakers and worth every hard earned penny! Listening through my JBL 104BT Reference speakers which are excellent for this kind of work.
excelente video. Sería una excelente idea el hacer SIEMPRE una comparación con un amplificador AB como referencia, dos clase D de similar manufactura no siempre dará mucha diferencia. Me gusta mucho los Blind Test que haces!!! toma tu like.
I am also not a cheap Audio man fan to be honest his opinons do vary a bit, which is why I love this channel 🤘, and a few others. But comming back to your point about power output about this amp not driving your lintons. It is some times not about the watts, but the hi power current delivery. Your Rotel, Nad amps, Exposure and Denon to name a few are not stupid watts but to produce high current when required. So a 40 watt Nad amp will drive pretty much any speaker despite it's low watt rating. Now this amp (and a lot of cheap digital amps) are current limited due to the outboard power supply, lots of watts but not many amps, and when driving current hungry speakers like the Lintons they just struggle. It's not even a digital amp thing as NAD does some wonderful digital amps that could drive a train. I have a fosi and a topping amp and they sound really good for the cash, but I still think a bottom of the range Cambridge audio/Nad amp would be how I would go if were starting out from scratch. I think one day soon though Fosi is going to produce an amp that will take the crown away from traditional amps and thats only good news for us.
I will say that 'opinions' (temporal things at best) are something no one should really stick to in the first place concerning this field of Audio even if they are your own, they are most of the time subject to ones own interpretation circumstantially which may differ from another person and even your own may change given time, so in that light you may give the bloke some slack as well as yourself. I have found my own opinion to be a flawed law. The 'crown' has slipped, imo, a while ago now for traditional amps to some degree but not completely. I have an SMSL A0-300 here and to be honest the only thing I would do if I was an engineer is drop the RCA altogether forever. The coaxial input sound quality is head and shoulders above RCA as it is on most equipment these days and with dac chips like the Cirrus Logic, the upper tier Infineon chips, analogue may have been surpassed, again imo, especially on entry level amps, pre amps and streamers. It certainly has with the AO-300. The coaxial output is by far the cleanest and most detailed. I have found this to be the case with some Class A/B amps of late with built in Dacs too. Although I risk a contraction here I am glad I do still have an RCA on my AO-300 as using a AudioQuest Dragonfly Red from the PC with a 3.5mm jack to RCA goes into the amp quite conveniently and doesn’t sound too bad at all considering it’s quite an old ESS chip and not the highest tier either…
My SMSL AO-300 arrived yesterday. Very sweet amp even before the known 2 week burn in. No misnomer on the power ratings. Running with Wiim Pro Plus, PC and Wharfedale 12.2. Nuff said!
I have the Loxjie-a40 which is basically the same with a phono section and I'm happy with it, it loses a bit of composure when pushed but at moderate listening levels it's great, the bass controll is fantastic compared to my previous class AB amp.
@@Fidelity_Sound Hi. There wasn't any invective in what I said, and I am at a loss as to why it generated such in your response. However, I acknowledge your prerogative. It was my observation regarding a change in Randy's output over time. This was not meant to be a pejorative remark; it was, again, my observation. I have watched Randy from the beginning when the fodder was invariably inexpensive equipment, and I presume that was why he decided to call himself 'cheap…'. He was a very welcome antidote to the numerous esoteric audio equipment reviewers who I think made many perpetually feel their equipment was possibly inadequate - and even, conceivably, pushed some people into a degree of unhealthy spending. I felt then and now, there was an absolute novelty in having a truly enjoyable audio system for such small amounts of money. It did not mean somebody could not afford more - the ‘'bang for buck’'enjoyment factor was the uniqueness.
I used to watch "Randy" but not anymore. He flip-flops on speakers & some of the things he reviews so I don't trust him anymore. I mean one minute he's making fun of people who use tower speakers & then the next, he's raving about them! 🫨 I would much rather hear from someone like you. Someone who doesn't flip-flop or rely on sponsors! As far as the MC351 I think it's weird. Why does it only have 1 VU meter? 🤷🏼♂️🤣
I watched another Audio RU-vid salesman rave on about how great an amp was and that he's "keeping it for his 2nd setup it was that good" Then 3 weeks later in his comments section someone asked about it and he said "it's nothing special" I replied and said "you raved on about how great this amp is a few weeks ago in your review, now you've saying it's nothing special" Most of these Audio guys are full of crap
I think, the comparison can be made technically by recording the track (or many tracks) from both players several times via digital out to a pc for example and then compare tracks from one player from different sessions between each other to understand if tracks were read accurately each time or they are a lot different each time. Better CD player with better mechanics/laser pick up will give you more stable result. Then you can compare tracks from different players between each other and see when there is a difference, and what is this difference looks like?
