this channel will be for showing random stuff, projects, unboxings, reviews, mini lathe projects, tools, how-to's, diy, 3D printing. Wide variety of things mixed in with some mischief Something for everyone, and family friendly.
@fayetowlson-mann2615 perfectly normal fear to have when it's a leaking flammable container, but yeah make sure its lit and firing flame before you hold it on, if too much gas escapes in a small place then you ignite it, it could flash you. I just light it up and if it starts to get awkward holding it, I clip the switch to hold it on by itself so I can manhandle the tool how I need it holding it in weird ways to reach where I need to get to. I found the button by accident, started freaking out why it wouldn't switch off when I let go of the trigger lol, panic mode for a few seconds.
Lol I said leave the caps on as a joke. I kept having to run around looking for them, so I told everyone else to do the same 😆 🤣 😂 Leave them off 👍 👍 👍
No because I'm in the uk, and they are very fussy about regulation. Just search QEV VALVE. Easy to put together, easy copper pipe and brass fittings, also plastic plumbing pipe can be used with the brass fittings. Can make any shape you want, search youtube for "qev rifle" Lots of easy to follow videos. And very impressive results, that I couldn't possibly show on youtube. Can easily put "AA BATTERIES" through car doors if needed lol
@@oraclescave Out of curiosity, do you know what PSI that QEV is rated for? All the ones I can find online are way below the output pressure of a paintball regulator
@WarlordEnthusiast yes they will be lower power rated, but there is a modification on the qev valve with a spring and a piece of rubber. It helps raise the pressure and make the shots faster saving more air aswell. I couldn't get mine all the way to 3000p.s.i either but you can get it close. Just check qev valve rifle videos, some American videos show exactly what to do, I just couldn't because I'm in the UK, it would be very illegal to shoe that for me.
Maybe check the "inline" fuse. Sometimes they have an overload reset button you can press. Or the fuse might have popped when you connected everything. Check to see if the metal part in the fuse has blown and separated.
@@oraclescave its currently charged at 8.5v its a 12v battery. Might as well charge it full day. Is it okay if i keep the top open because it was bubbling.
@shaheen06 you can keep it open, but have it somewhere people can't just be splashed on. You wouldn't want that to splash in your eyes. So wear some protection, even if it's just sun glasses, while it's open, incase you drop it or it splashes at you when the bubbles pop. Bur really it should be OK
Yes the cheap one is not amazing. But most people buying a mini lathe, do not have the £200, to throw at a steel one straight away. Or they would just buy a £1000 lathe that has everything. My cheap one didn't give me much issues and would have lasted long enough to do some projects while I saved up to buy the steel one. So yes the cheap one isn't amazing and won't last a lifetime, but it is a way of working your way around having one until you have the cash to get the strong one. The original toolpost works great, but very annoying trying to use when you are changing tools a lot. So again, it is worth spending the cheap amount buying the cheap toolpost, especially if you are working on delrin, plastics, or other soft materials long term. So completely steering people away from something that is so cheap and easy to get hold of, is not very good advice from a creator. Unless you are one of these other plebs that has a lathe and thinks they are a full on engineer, which is complete snobbery and goes against makers and creators learning.
I've been looking for a s/h mobility scooter of which there are many where the original owner is no longer alive, but the family have not kept them charged, and the batteries are dead. These are always way cheaper and now it's a good option for me to consider. £100 plus per new battery was out of the question, but the price of some distilled water and a bit of faffing about with the cells is quite within my means. Thank you v much!!!
And there is very cheap battery refill pouches with fresh acid, turns battery to brand new if my way doesn't work, very cheap. Much better than paying for new ones. 👍👍👍
Hey @oracle, after you add the battery solution (not distilled water), is it safe to charge the battery? i have two 12 volts battery for a wheelchair. Thanks!
Sometimes it's just solution no need for water, other times it's just acid and you need to add distilled water. Normally if its "solution" no water is needed, it will say on the packet. But yes solution added then charge.
@@oraclescave Thank you so much for the quick response! i just filled mine with solution and was doubting if i should charge it after removing the excess
@sohn1207 leave caps off and charge, make sure you are wearing some eye protection even sunglasses, and have your PowerPoint somewhere you don't have to lean over the charging battery to turn it off, have it off to the side. Your battery will be back to brand new full power. Charging with the caps off to release any bubbles, then it's good to close up and use as normal
@sohn1207 yes normal to leak at first, once it's charged it will be all good to seal up. But yes totally normal until all bubbles are worked out of it.
Hold the bottom of the black piece at the front and twist the rest of it to the right with the drill facing away from you. It could just be cranked all the way down, if something is wrong just return it for another one, the warranty is immediate replacement. Mine can get a little crunchy but has always worked, I imagine yours is just tightened all the way
I have the same batteries in my mobility scooter and it's not holding a charge so I'm going to try this before paying $150 for new ones, ty so much for showing this
You can also buy battery refills, just fresh acid, much much cheaper than a new battery, all the power in a battery comes from the "electrolyte" liquid, the rest of the battery is just a jar really.
Yeah, still got mine, still as strong as ever, will absolutely buy again if anything does go wrong as I have used them for many many things. Awesome tools.
Yes I imagine that could be done as long as you didn't turn on the vehicle while it's connected. It would be much safer to disconnect and charge just incase anything bad happened with the battery while charging, like exploding, then the vehicle would also get damaged. But chances are it would be fine, cars normally get trickle charged while battery is in place, so yeah, as long as you don't turn the vehicle on until the charger is disconnected, it should be good.
Thanks for the informative video. I bought an old Black and Decker electric push lawnmower and it has 2 small 12volt batteries connected in series that look like your battery. I’m assuming they’re very dead. Do you know if a car charger can bring the batteries back to life or would it be unsafe to use a car charger. The smart charger doesn’t charge it at all.
Car charger can be used to kickstart a battery into getting voltage but if left the 6v battery could dry up and cause thermal runaway. So I would advise not to do it unless it's to just shortly use it to raise voltage so the smart charger can start to work, voltage would only need to rise a small bit for the smart charger to start working.
I've got a desktop power supply, so I can push any voltage I want on anything. My little old 6v won't take even 0.01a of any voltage. I started at 7v, cranked it way the hell up, still nothing. This is after topping off all the water. The battery does read at about 2.25v, before and after my charging attempts. I guess sometimes, they're just truly done for, huh? They're very cheap, but I'm still a little disappointed
Not volts amps, have the voltage at the correct volts and can charge at higher amps. Sometimes dropping the battery onto a hard surface can knock it enough to loosen the crystals inside to allow it to begin the charge, also look up reversing the terminal connections to help with restarting the charging cycle.
I have the same car and it failed mot on rear brake imbalance.. Would this be cause by uneven wear on one side so changing the shoes should fix this? Thanks
It can be a few things. Worn brake pads, bad discs with scoring on them, a stiff caliper that is starting to seize up. Just check them and look for obvious issues, undo the slider pins and clean them up and put some grease on them, it's possibly the piston in the caliper that's starting to seize up so it's not fully squeezing the brake disk on one side. You can take the wheel off, start the car and have someone apply the brake, and when you tell them to let off, watch for the movement in the caliper, when applied and when let off, you should see a noticeable squeezing motion, if it looks like nothing happened then you find which side is the issue. If both are squeezing fine and letting go fine, then you know it's either your pads or discs that's the problem. But I would bet its discs or piston in the caliper that's causing it. Hope this helps you narrow it down.
And yes it could also just be your shoes, but if the discs have grooves, it's best to replace them aswell, so you have full clamping force, grooves on the disc can cause the issue you are having.
You should never leave a chuck key in your chuck. When using a chuck key, never let it out of your hand always take it out. Never let go of it until you lay it down. You also have the wrong jaws in your chuck for what you were doing. Hope this helps
If anybody is interested in seeing what's necessary to correct these pieces of shit, here's the collection of parts that I machined to replace every single component of the original. Who says you can't make a silk purse out of a pigs ear! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5v4M_QfRAgU.html
Thanks dude trying to decide whether to buy the wedge style or that styling your video for much cheaper just to get started on my mini lathe I think I'll go with the cheaper one for now and see if my Lathe holds up
Hi there, a quick note in the hope that it helps someone out there - I had a D620 with these exact symptoms, tried the method here and unfortunately it didn't work for me. So I opened it up and determined that the SMD capacitor labelled PC252 had shorted (the tall one near the power inlet, you can see it poking through the palm rest, next to the CMOS battery, with just the keyboard removed). PC252 is a 100uF 25V electrolytic, in case the markings aren't clear. I replaced that with a new capacitor and the D620 burst back into life :) Hope this helps!
Yes, all water will actually work, but normal water has minerals in it, this will cause issues and corrosion on the lead cells, purified, distilled or deionized is fine. 👍👍👍
I've got the gas only version of this and it's been a pain in the ass trying to get it to run properly. When it decides to work it's good and it will weld 0.7 to 0.8mm Honda/Rover panel steel but it seems to change settings overnight and the next day it will burn through even if nothing has been adjusted. I fitted a metal strap to the wire feed mechanism which helped, I also replaced liner and swan neck liner with metal Clarke liners. It also helps if the wire feed motor gearbox is regreased. When I took my one apart, the old grease had dried into semi soft crumbs. I cleaned it out and re-packed with ceramic brake grease. However the biggest issue is the pulsing motor which bogs down when the arc strikes on low settings. I need to work out how to give the motor a dedicated power feed. I've seen some info on the migwelding forum but it's vague and the photos aren't clear.
We won't have to soon, new nuke batteries have been invented by China, they last about 30 years without recharge, so far they only make 3 volt ones but 6 and 12 volts won't be far behind.
hey, the mechanisms of the gun work but when I fire the bullet remains in the magazine and is not picked up. What could the problem be and how could I solve it?
