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Mostly to be inclusive since some people have no real idea what a millimeter looks like. Providing general conversions helps get people in the proper mindset. I thought about it for a fortnight and in the end I didn't want to go too many leagues under the Sea with my explanations.
Thank you. Full build videos aren't as popular as flashy reviews - but they are needed and I'm happy to do what I can to provide them! Belting is one of the items that both intimated and frustrates a lot of people. Trying to record the process if also... well, a process. So I added in the zooms and the illustration to try and help further. Thanks again.
You don't need to put packets in with the filament; it won't hurt - but this dryer uses warm air to pull moisture from the filament and expel that air to the outside. I suggest you focus on keeping ABS/PETG/ASA and any expensive filaments dry. Don't worry about PLA. Once you dry them get a good container with a seal on it. Place your spolls in this container and keep your desiccant packs in the container for good measure. Every once in a while you can put these packs (they come with nearly all filament) in the over ~250 for an hour or so or in the filament dryer to dry those out. Depending on where you live and how humid the air is where your printer food is, will change how much moisture actually gets into your filament. Hope this helps! Feel free to reach out any time - I'm here to help!
Shouldn't the nozzle cleaning be done with the nozzle at temp? How would one go about setting this up with the nozzle at temp to clean it? Or does it not matter
Good question and 100% yes. My config cleans the nozzle at 150 degrees first because you can't Z home or probe with a tap with the nozzle above ~150. Once that's all done the printer does a secondary cleaning at the end right before the print, this cleaning starts with a bucket purge and ends with awie on the brush to make sure there is not "dribbles". To get the print temp it needs to be stored as a temporary verible, these are in the code as: print_start HOTEND=[first_layer_temperature] BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature] - or something simular in your code start, then you can call on these things in your macros.
The trident is a super printer - easy to maintain and a little easier than the 2.4 to build. After this Voron - I'll be making a RatRig V-Core 4 Idex machine.. Stay tuned.
This Trident will have the inverted electronics - trying to decide if I'll do anything special for mounting. I'm still deciding. As for the RatRig, that's coming in about a week or two - so The Trident needs to be completed!!! It's going to look nice with the UV LEDs....
How do I do this when I barely have enough travel room for the brush on my 350mm (2.4) and have the scoot the bed forward. If I do that then my 350y end stop switch will be off from the edge of my bed and 350mmY will be short of the front of my bed?
Please feel free to send me an email with a photo and more details - happy to help. Yes, this purge bucket does make you lose about 2-3cm of usable X, but it shouldn't change anything with the end stops. kerm@builditbasement.com
I know I'm coming very late to this 'party', lol, but for your future projects you will find the bed parallel to the front measurement easier & more accurate by measuring from the back side of the steel rule. That way, you can push the calliper depth rod right up to the bed and the body of the calliper flush to the steel rule. Two things to consider, though: both to do with accuracy. 1. Mark the ruler in pencil at the two points you are taking measurements from and measure the width of the ruler there. This accounts for any manufacturing error in the consistency of the ruler width. 2. This allows you to subtract this distance from your calliper reading, giving you the distance back from the outer frame. It's much easier to do that 'guesstimating' by eye. Hope this is helpful, I have arthritis in my hands & find this way easier to contend with as less to 'handle' simultaneously.
I believe you are speaking of doing this using the rule as a straight edge held on the front of the printer while you measure off of that as a static point? I agree, fully if that's what you're saying. I don't recall the specifics of that day, but I will say that sometimes you have to make due with what you have on hand when you're working alone and trying to make videos! Not and excuse, but it can be a pain at times and I do get flustered! Hey 100%!! Thanks for the note and anytime you have ANYTHING please do leave a comment - they are her to help me and to a much LARGER community of people making things in their own Basement or maker space! Thanks again!
@@BuildItBasement You are more than welcome, I come from an engineering background so have had to find ways to 'juggle' things over my time, lol. On a separate note, I sent you an email recently, about the hexagonal small parts trays that can be used singley or connect together. I was wondering if they were bought or 3d printed? I'm trying to make up my mind, by watching your build series, if a Voron build could be my next project. I'm fine with the build part & okay with the wiring & basic electronics, but the 'programming' type stuff terrifies me to be honest. After paying out the best part of $2k in all I don't want to be beaten by not being able to get it working. All my 3d printers have been manufactured and some assembly so far. I like the Voron idea though, so it will be time to choose after I've watched all of your build, ha ha. Thanks for making this. 🙂
Trident has less parts, software isn't so bad. You're free to join my discord, I and multiple like-minded people there to help with the software. I'm here for ya!@@nicolasharman3527
Hi, not sure if my earlier reply got through. Just loaddd the g-code file you sent into orcaslicer & it's saying 13¾ hours, lol, for 1 cup? Is that right or have I got something really wrong? It's for printing on an Elegoo N4Max, so it's not a slow printer.
It's all about trying to get those angels! I could probably use another two cameras. It's going to be fun to figure out how to record a top-down for a 500mm printer, the ceilings are not very high in the BIB.
@@BuildItBasement one of the things I love about your builds is that your show where you're at in instructions too, so this is perfect so I can keep up with building. It's great for people like me that need to look at instructions, see how it actually looks IRL then understand what I got to do when I am building.
Mine do not have the groves to clamp Z belting. However: github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main/usermods/Tetsu/Symetrical%20BFI OR the originals: github.com/clee/VoronBFI
idk how people get their rama idlers to break ? did they not print the inserts in the correct orientation ? the way they are printed makes the layer lines be horizontal when installed later meaning the pull on the piece dosent pull on the layers... seeing how some people have theirs broken either tells me they printed them wrong, used the wrong materials, didnt print their abs with the correct temps or plain oriented them wrong? im stillusing the first ones i had with a belt tension of 120hz and they are like new.. no cracks to see nothing
So many people, so many printers. I had some that broke on the horizontal, but I blame the filament manufacturer for that. (I had to replace a lot of parts on that printer) I guess to me the newest front idlers (I have never used them) have that part to part point where the screw enters and that just seems like a bad design. But I encourage everyone to try both stock and mod parts - testing, building and modifying is how we, as a community can make such great strides. I'm a big pin-mod guy, so I choose to do Rama or other idlers!
Do I need to use the F-command anytime I need movement? I'm trying to modify my end_print macro, and it just parks right on top of the print and melts into it when the job is done, even though I input a location to park the head and the bed.
No. But. There are two trains of thought on speed commands. One says that you set it and forget it. The problem is that speeds tend to stay at what you set them at until a new speed setting sets them to a speed. I prefer black and white, I want this speed now. I would see if your Gcode is setting the speed to 0, it would be a little odd, but would explain the no movement. A better option may be to call on the Home X/Y macro after you raise your Z by around 5-10mm. Many options.
True - over a long period, true. It all depends on the printed materials and priorities. I personally rather scrub the nozzle than wipe it. If a nozzle gets damage over time, I replace it. Silicon does a great job, like a sponge. I just prefer to brush!
Thanks for the video! Are you able to put two brand new rolls of Polymaker filament laying flat side-by-side so you can slide either one out past the other or does one roll need to be pushed back slightly into the cabinet behind the other one?
I'm not 100% sure I understand. Out of the box you gain a little room since the spools are bigger than the filament that fills them. You can fit them stacked inside (sideways) and a couple (vertical) in the front of those. Hope this helps!
i had that exact hotend that's on your ender 5 but it ended up failing within an hour into a 3H print, i know this video is over a year old and about the spider V3 (which im currently waiting on), but i am wondering if it ever gave you issues with heating or overall died recently? (sorry if this comment comes off sounding a tad rude, im genuinely wondering do to 90% of the reviews ive seen have had the same problems)
Since I installed this hotend I have less than 30hrs of print time on the printer. I have to be honest and say I have not kept up with others or done any further research on the Spider. BTW your comment isn't at all rude. What exactly failed on your HE? Thermistor, heater, or something physical? I ask because now you have me wondering... I could run some prints w/o filament to see if it fails in the first 100hrs or so. Failing within an hour is 100% unacceptable!
@@motionless6449 I'll hook up the Ender and run some custom GCODE to heat and cool the HE over a 24-hour period - I'll let you know what happens! a few dozen 60c to 260c cycles should do it.
100% - *BUT* you will need to make sure they are loose and not terminated at the toolhead. I would also say that once you get the belts run and terminated you do the same treatment and adjust the tension of the belts on either side to ensure equal tension. Great question - Totally understand not wanting to run those belts more than you have to!
@@DYCKnights You'll get a feel for it. I keep my belts "mid" some run loose so they can go faster - others tighter so they get slightly more precision. These belts are pretty long so they will always feel looser than those of the "z" drives.
This video definitely needs to be on the group buy page. I've been perseverating on one of these for so long because it looks like it can only hold 5 rolls from the pic on the group buy. Knowing i cam get rid of most of my cereal boxes with this has put me over the edge.
I love mine - I keep most of my expensive filaments in there. If you plan to use it as a feed you'll fit a few less, but it will fit at least 10 rolls in there with enough room to allow for the five feeding spools!
i dont like the idea of that, doesnt doesnt really mean its square... it just means youre ends are aligned with the other ends.... well if your AB motor mounts/front idlers arent put on the same way, its also not going to be square, you could just shift one axis forward, and the other back, do this procedure, and youd have calibrated it to be a parallelogram.
Assuming you constructed the frame square from the start, that shouldn't be much of an issue. There is always a way to make a tip or suggestion not work the way its intended - extremes will always be there. Under normal and proper construction where you need to minimally adjust your gantry, this has worked for me on three builds. I guess what I would really like to say is that without a decent starting point (before this stage) you'll be fighting a battle no matter the method. You are 100% right if your frame is not true during the build this will not fix all the possible issues. I will also add that if your gantry parts are properly printed and everything is tight it would be difficult to not notice the printer being a parallelogram. Linear rails don't like being askew.
Hey - Jokes aside, it could. - Some people have suggested dryers with shoe dryer inserts. If you needed to dry a bunch of filament quick before storing it for use, it was meant to be funny - but the irony is that it could actually work.
For the clothes dryer method, companies used to make a plastic rack that was attached to the lip of the door frame. The rack was supposed to be used for drying shoes or other heavy items that you don't want bouncing around in the drum.
I may have heard of that once or twice. Some one should do a test, my LG doesn't have the feature. It would also be neat to use a dryer that is a heat pump unit...
Never tried this but you said a pole in the cloths dryer, they make shoe racks for them and you could theoretically sit the rolls on top of that and they wouldn't tumble
I need an upgrade on my dryer! A lot of folks saying this. I just thought that if you can keep filament and food mostly separated - the better off? The good ole oven does work well, but I cook pizza in there!
You're doing great, but I hope you don't mind a bit of advice. The intro itself isn't really a problem, but together with the following screens of information it drags on too long and leaves too large of a content gap. The sponsorship and subscriber information should be worked into the video itself by displaying it over footage and/or briefly mentioning it. Skits are great, however generally you want to at least give the viewer a taste of the content they clicked for right after the intro. They should be cut down as well (20 seconds of the video were spent placing filament in the oven) to avoid an engagement dip. Not that it's necessarily about being fast either, because that can tire people out. It's about not wasting any time. I believe you can see where the engagement dips are if you go to your dashboard. For music, it may depend on the target audience. Loud goofy music can be off-putting to youthful viewers (when it's not the type of goofy they like haha) or those deeper into internet culture. It's also not very fitting for technical sections. In contrast, simple background music (such as the music about 6 minutes in) has wide appeal. Hope this helps!
Take a look at my replies to people - I want people to tell me what they like, what works, and what was a put-off. RU-vid videos is yet another hobby in my laundry list of things. I 100% want your input! I love to learn new things and when you create content you often get tunnel vision of the production. I have been learning Resolve this past few months and prior to that I just did all videos live without editing. I'm enjoying learning and I take everything in stride. Your opinion is highly valued and I hope you continue to provided feedback is you decide to watch more of my videos in the future. I'll still be creating technical long-form videos, but I wanted to start and use the skills my developing in these videos that may provide my channel with a wider audience base. If you like, I'd like to know who you feel makes great videos and specifically who has great video intros. You hit many valuable points in your comment! THANKS!
@@BuildItBasement I think CNC Kitchen's content is excellent for those just interested in the technical details. As for his intro, the visuals are nothing special (had to look it up to remember it) but I remember his intro phrase really well ("Guten tag everybody, I'm Stefan, and welcome to CNC Kitchen"). That said however, there's nothing wrong with a simple intro, and I think it's usually better than a flashy one. If you really want a good intro though I'd say involve your personal skills. Check out the way Alpha Phoenix does it. He didn't use fancy graphics at all and I'd say it's very memorable. Manifest your passion into it with what YOU'RE good at. Ideally not just a print timelapse because pretty much every 3d printing video has one of those. Maybe design or customize a moving print to have your logo on it, such as a jack in the box. Just keep it short. For less serious channels, there's Zack Freedman but he may be a bit insane and vulgar to use as an example. I'll instead move over to general engineering territory and mention William Osman and "I did a thing". They both smoothly integrate skits into their videos. Just be careful that you don't get lost in one-upping yourself. Some changes are purely positive, but other times you could be unwittingly starting down the unsustainable path of trying to make every video better and crazier than the last. It can lead to burnout, and sadly going back to an older calmer style could cause your channel to take a hit that it doesn't recover from. Although this probably isn't something you have to worry about much at this stage (especially since it's a good time to experiment), but it's something to keep in mind. A couple wild videos aren't gonna kill your channel, just be mindful of the expectations you're setting long term and if it's ok to break them.
Well taken from this end of the conversation, and well expressed from your side. I enjoy Zack, but you may be correct... RU-vid is as much a hobby to me as the experimentation and analytics are. Feel free to contact me via email if you want to continue the thoughts. I enjoy the comments, they may actually show interactions that help the video grow however emails are often easier for providing details and links. Just an offer. 3D printing and YT are not my day job, I'm actually an RF engineer and Director of Operations for a small company in Maine. Like MANY things in my life, I learn by doing, and doing things is key to learning. As I get older the more I want to do, and in some cases the more I'm able to do. Time is my only real limiting factor, so your provided perspectives are a short-cut in some ways. Thanks again.
@@BuildItBasement Oh, I love Zack myself. He's one of the most skilled creators in hobbyist 3d printing. I just wasn't sure how to relate his content to your calm family-oriented style. Sounds like a cool job by the way! Alright, I've sent you an email.
as a chemist i would like to make it very clear that putting filament or anything you make out of it anywhere near your food or cooking utensils is a terrible idea.
Why? Filament is not that different from all the plastic cooking utensils, kids toys and other plastic stuff we have in kitchens. It's not a powder or has high risk of getting into your food, like small ABS Lego pieces for example. Printed parts do have a much higher chance of getting into your food and the porous structure isn't great either because it can host all sorts of ugly.
@@zapl80 No, they are not even remotely similar to plastic cooking utensils, toys and other stuff meant to have human contact. You can't see the chemical makeup by looking at it. Anything that is meant for human contact, especially cooking utensils and toys, are regulated so that only plastics are used that don't have highly toxic monomers , so TPU goes straight out the window. Catalysts and additives are also regulated and must not leech out of the plastic. With filament there are not only almost no rules, but they also have to add colorants, flow modifiers, UV protection and antioxidants etc etc etc. Its a terrible mess and should never be near anything you eat.
@@monster2slayer One example would be PET vs PET-G. I try not to consume glycol... Some filaments are made to be in use with more pronounced human contact, but they are far from all the masses of other plastics - It's a general rule. amzn.to/3Rtkgun - One such filament. Here is a "decent" article about the topic. As will all things including my comments and videos - do your own research and make your own decisions! formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-food-safe-3d-printing/
@@BuildItBasement edit: yeah, that formlabs link you posted basically sums it up. the problem is, even if you manage to buy genuine food grade filament, no one has a food grade printer. you are using PTFE tubing, you have used non-food safe filaments in the past, your grease isn't food grade and so on. Unless you really know what you are doing, and you're printer is built from the ground up to be food grade and only food grade, it isn't food safe.
LOL - I actually cleaned it a couple of weeks ago. Wife was away. I'd share my secrets, but there are already a ton of YT videos on how to clean ovens! Hey - but thanks for noticing my hard work!😁
I'm very much into that EIBOS vacuum pump system. I printed small cylindric boxes with holes which, filled with silica gel desiccant, I put in the middle of the filament spool and then vacuum the bag. It's comparably cheap, energy-saving, easily extensible, and seems to work well so far, no problems at all with wet filament. :)
EIBOS makes some nice products - I maybe I'll get the opportunity to try some at some point. The vacuum pump is a great way to store dried spools. I've used similar items in the past. The limitation is the ability to use the filament while it's in the dry air of the bag. Very cheap, VERY energy efficient! I enjoy these comments - if anything I want to spark conversations and comments so people can learn from each other. Please always feel free to leave a "what I do" on any of my videos! The more we all know, the better we'll all be.
Hi - Not sure why you are seeing blank descriptions. You had me worried so I checked a few this morning and they are all in place. To help you out here is a direct link to the git page with the macro your asking about and some of my configs. These are not updated and should be used to work from, not fully rely on. github.com/kermyb123/3DPrinting/tree/main/UltiBIB%20Configs
