Welcome to Wayne's Garage I will be teaching myself how to film and edit youtube videos on my spare time. I am a full time Master certified ASE automotive technician. I love learning new fields of work and trying out new things. (Plumbing, construction, HVAC, woodworking, electrical, etc) My videos are intended to spread knowledge and help others who are willing to learn. Remember that no one is ever too old to learn new things. Please subscribe and help me build this channel.
Thanks you so much thanks to this video my husband was able to fixed his impact and now he doesn't need to buy another one definitely I would recommend this video to anyone that needs help with their impact.
Hi, maybe you can help me, I was replacing the pads/rotor on my 2017 crv ex 4wd and when Im trying to press the piston back in , the piston itself went all the way out, I meat off thr booth, any idea how could I fix it? Thanks
I recently did my own brakes on my own F150 03' same method except without that bearing grease tool. I wish I had that greaser bearing tool it would have made it easier for me. That's a cool tool to have.
I got the 'Bank 1 Too Rich' error at a smog station, then went to Auto Zone and their machine suggested I replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor, which I did and will now test drive and hope the 'check engine' light does not return 🤞
@@MrSkullWolf the Mass Air Flow Sensor didn't fix it. The smog person said he would test the fuel pressure pump next. Online says it can be a faulty oxygen sensor causing the bad reading. You can also try cleaning the engine air filter, and using fuel injector cleaner (the liquid that you pour into the gas tank). Good luck!
Hi there you know that secondary turbo pipe that goes to gasket, my new one is closed but i dont remember if old one was like that too, is it suppoes to be closed like that(maybe there is a valve there?) 3:11 Also ı break that pipes clips and cant find anywere any suggestion? Lastly 3:42 i do not have those metal inside cylinders, is it normal? Thanks! Can
Mild misinformation; early on, when the rotor still has cross hatching, this is somewhat the case, as the hatching will rip away and hold the material of the pads. But as the hatching wears away, you're using more and more of the actual metal as your friction surface, until it's worn down to a finish that matches whatever sandpaper grain the pads would be considered to be, then it's all pad to metal, minus some small imperfections in the rotor finish where pad material can still build up a tiny bit. Resurfaced rotors are the same deal, it looks visually different from a bedded rotor because the finishing pass of the surfacer is a different, coarser grit material than the pad material, which then gets worn back into the shinier finish from the pads. When it comes to overheating the brake system,cyou were right about the cause and effects, but wrong again because you tried to loop it in with this pad material theory; The pad can leave material on the rotors in an overheat condition, as you said, and you will get a warped-like effect from the pad material, but that's because the pad-on-pad material friction is different from the pad-on-metal friction, not because more pad material on the rotor equals more friction; the pad material buildup on the rotor actually *reduces* friction, as on a microscopic scale the buildup comes free during a pass and acts kind of like a thrust bearing until it is worn back away to be pad on metal. Here's my take on brake service: If your rotors have a visible ridge of rust on either side of the pad zone, they need resurfacing or replacing. If they are warped, you'll know it and they need replacing. if there's a spot of buildup but no warpage, you can try to clean the buildup off with brake clean, but if you can't then you might want to get them resurfaced. However, if you have no signs of these issues, they are perfectly fine to just go ahead and reuse, as long as you don't contaminate therotors or pads with oils or something, if there is any contamination either side, brake clean it until you are reasonably confident it's clean again. I wonder how many people got scared into buying new rotors with their pads over this video...
Great video! Wayne 🤝 waiting for my parts gasket+ pcv. Hey! Mr. Wayne you have any video how to remove+ replace PCV valve??? Thank you 🙏. Pat I have similar car like your 2013 mini Cooper S R56 N18. ** Hope to hear from you soon. ** Want to ask you. Do you put any sealant on the valve gasket before you reinstall it???? Thank you.
Mr. Wayne's. I have 2013 mini Cooper S R56 N18 similar to your car I tried to remove the pvc cover, i couldn't get it out and almost cracked the engine cover. I stopped the process. * Can you please help me how to remove this PVC. Tell me where the latches located exactly. Thank you.. Pat. ** Hope to hear from you soon. ***It looks so easy on your video. * What if I just cut the PVC out ? You think that is possible???? Without yanking it out avoiding cracking or breaking the cover.
Hey man, same problem here. Same car as you mentioned. I have tried to open it almost one hour with no results. Have you resolve your problem already ? What was the solution in your case ?
@@yanivanov1719 Nope still there. Couldn't get out.1719 😞. I'm afraid to break or crack it the valve. I went dealership, they want it$450 to replace it . Nop! * You have any idea how to get off please let me know thank
@@sirisackx1582 Hi! I thought about it as well. But I was able to open it sucessfully! So I tried a couple of time with the screwdriver. I found another guide, with different clips order. In my case the upper right clip was the second one. Its hard to explain how, but: After snapping the first one, move on to the second one from the top right. You need to accurately insert the screwdriver between the membrane cover and the base right next to the second latch.Then, when you have found this place and inserted the screwdriver correctly, you need to carefully turn it clockwise. I had no problems with the other clips. Take a close look at the latches on the cover; if you have one in your repair kit, this is a good clue. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LG_8MY8yKBs.html
great information but is it accurate when vehicle is warm and finger is placed on solenoid and it sucks, meaning solenoid is working. Hope to hear from you. Thanks and God Bless.
hi helpful video the problem with mine is when i go to switch it to forward it doesn't have as much power as it usually did and when i put it to reverse it is perfectly fine. going forward is where the problem is and not having a lot of power but it is still moving. it all happened randomly
My friend bought a new MG car. I think it's 1 yr old now. I saw last month all this red stuff on her hubcaps. (I don't drive myself, but I'm worried as she is elderly) Is that normal to have all that red dust on them? I didn't see that on her other car. Are the brakes overheating, or does she just have to break in the new car? Can you please help me?
Thanks for the video! I’m a novice and trying to get my 3phase lathe connected to a vfd. My 9wire motor low voltage setting is wye like this one. My question is about 4,5,6. After wiring L1,L2,L3, do I just leave 4,5,6 capped together inside ? Also if the motor has no ground would it be acceptable to wire my own ground to the chassis?
