From my understanding Same part is in the Ford 3.8 liter engine also. So good luck finding it. I am buying an entire 4.2 liter engine for $500. And will rebuild and keep it on standby if I need it. The part is worth well more than 500 because it's my business truck. I rebuild the current engine because replacement engine was months out. So the part is worth it for me.
have a 94 jeep 4.0 230,000 miles im tempted to try this but afraid it will just make it loader as it has the the 4.0 ticking ever since i got it with 140,000 miles
If you had paid attention to the oil guys at the Valvoline facility, it was mentioned that oil filter overload is a problem, especially on used, older engines. You are actually trying to do a total fill of engine flush. Perhaps you should have done the standard can of oil flush beforehand, then use the Valvoline with a new oil filter. Can you imagine what those engines look like inside after all those years of use. Using this oil in a new engine will keep it cleaner for the future. 👍
I'm 66. I believe oil changes should be 3000 to 4000 miles when driven every day. I believe that if you believe in taking care of your engine along with coolant
In my opinion, it appears that the ford owner did not do regular oil changes thus creating a horrible situation to start with. I am curious to know what the next 500 mile filter change will look like. I bet it’s not far off from the first one.
It completely fucked my engine up to the point where it keeps blowing out oil filter seal with 3 seconds of run time 2k on that oil and the filter was completely clogged
You could have prevented any damage to your engine or caused by a oil pump or otherwise by using motorkote It bonds with the metal surfaces of your engine with a super slippery surface and reduces friction roughly around 95% preventing a lot of the metal particles ending up in your engine oil filter
Hmm. I wonder how this compares to adding B&G EPR before an oil change. EPR has worked amazing for me in the past. I do it once a year. This sounds like a less concentrated version EPR that's always in the engine so may be even better. If I had a car with sludge/varnish, ticking, etc, I would probably flush with EPR then use this going forward.
Hyundai/ Kia engines have bare bones oil pressure. The advice is to buy OEM filters. Loss in oil pressure means starved lubrication. Gotta really think about this.
I think the difference we are seeing here is the Toyota had regular oil changes, where the Ford may have not. The Restore and Protect probably wasn’t doing much in the Toyota due to it already being clean from regular maintenance, whereas in the ford it was doing a lot because of the lack thereof.
in other words, the Ford engine did not need Valvo R&P and should have continued w/a std synthetic or a high mileage oil, yes? Also, what about direct injection engines? Port injection shouldn't have intake valve deposit problems, but DI is a different story, so how does R&P behave w/creating vapors (NOACK #)?
This is telling me that the oil is doing what it stats it does. I started using it and always charge my oil every 2500 in my 2010 mercury grand marquis. The 10,000 mile oil changes are the dealers way to make sure you keep coming back for repairs same with the motorcrap synthetic blend.
This is why I change my oil every 4k miles with Walmart supertech fully synthetic oil and mobile 1 oil filter my truck is coming up on 350k miles never had anything internal go bad on it 5.3 last forever just change your oil right guys its under 30$ for oil and filter and takes less than 15 minutes
Here's the facts - if you haven't been running synthetic oil - before you switch from conventional oils to synthetic oils - you need to perform an HD30 engine flush routine. Two cases of any brand HD30 engine oil - six inexpensive oil filters - and follow this guide. 1. Change oil with replacement filter. Idle for 30 minutes - check oil for condition - and if not totally black the drive it for 30 minutes. If oil is black then change oil again. 2. Change oil again with a filter - idle for 30 minutes - check oil condition - and if not black drive it for 30 minutes. 3. By the third oil change with HD30 the engine should be getting clean. Driving it for a day and change when the oil changes color to black. 4. Thus oil change go a week on the oil and filter change. 5. Drain and refill with a good quality synthetic oil and another inexpensive oil filter. The higher detergent level of the synthetic oil will further break down the deposits in the engine. Check frequently for oil condition and change when dark. Do two synthetic oil changes before using Valvoline Restore and Protect. Restore and Protect is an aggressive detergent engine oil. Don't change engine oils lightly. Check your oil often and change BEFORE it gets dark. You want to ensure that your engine in clean internally before using such an aggressive detergent engine oil. Never flush your engine with engine flush. Flush with HD30 engine oil and several cheap oil filters until the oil stays relatively clean - then switch to synthetic oil - THEN begin using Restore and Protect. And never run any synthetic engine oil over 5,000 miles. 15K oil changes damage engines. Check your oil frequently and change with it begins getting dark. These are best practices that are known to work. Your auto engine isn't a lawn mower engine. It is a sophisticated and complicated precise bit of engineering. Treat it as such. An oil change is always cheaper than an engine replacement. 2002 Suburban 5.3 - 200K+ - synthetic oil since new - runs as well now as it did back then. Still idles at 60 psi oil pressure.
Fram filters! No kick back valve so the engine starts dry every start! Classic Hemi ticks due to cheap oil change places....filters = engine mileage! 😮
Thank goodness this video came up in my feed. I just did my oil change with 3qt of the restore and protect and 2 quarts Napa oil be changing my filter in 2 weeks and get a platinum Napa filter in place of the gold I got
Two other questions/comments..... if you fear "Too-Good" cleaning for an engine where you DON'T know how sludged-up it is currently....instead of changing fiters very frequently, like for every 30-500 miles.....what about using 1 qt of this oil with the remaining 3-4 qts "normal oil" in your next change?....basically saying use a weaker concentration and end up doing this for a longer number of subsequent oil-changes? Keep in mind many cars have small-diameter VVT (variable valve timing) oil passages that can really get cloggesd up too fast if the cleaning is too good. That is my problem...I have a car with VVT and bought it used with high miles, and although I've done plenty of oil changes since I bought the car....who knows what accumulated sludge there was previously...and if my many years of frequent oil changes already did some good to partially de-sludge the engine. I would like to use this product to possibly free up the piston rings....as the car has 290,000 trouble-free miles on it ( car bought at 150k miles)....but uses a smidge of oil between changes where maybe piston rings are getting stuck, and can be improved. The other idea is to use the full 4-5 qts your oil needs....and then change the filter and the oil maybe for the first 2-3 oil changes. Yes, this gets expensive but maybe is the method to use to avoid issues?
If the oil filter media gets clogged up, it will just run in bypass at that point, so should not damage anything, but it is prudent to change filters throughout the running of the vehicle oil change.
I used this oil for the first time in my 3.6 Pentastar with 55k miles. Bought it used at 19k miles and they just had followed the OLM. Once I got it, I’ve been doing 5k oil changes. I have about 2500 miles on the restore and protect, this has me wanting to go outside and check what the oil filter looks like.
I will regularly run either a half a quart to a quart to be the transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil in an engine before I change to a new oil. It has worked for over 10 decades now
Glad I'm seeing how well this oil cleans because I just started using this oil. Seems on really sludgy engines, you'll need to change the oil filter a couple times within the 1st thousand miles to make sure it isn't internally bypassing.
They say it's supposed to clean over the oil change interval and not clog up a filter fast but that is more that likely with oem filters that filter as well as some higher end after market filters.
Have one for next change on a 60K vehicle, I probably will check and maybe change the filter at 1000. Have cartage filter easy to remove and look at filter paper. I think age/miles, type of oil, interval will determine the sludge. Another channel just showed a 150k Ford with a quarter inch sludge on the opened-up cam. I will be interested in my filter and compare it with the one I will change to see the state of the engine. Got the vehicle at 40K, I doubt you can do much to it in that number of miles, it was a work truck, so I do not expect they were complete maintenance idiots where a vehicle is a key part and expense of your job. It has had 20k miles of decent synthetic oil changes since. Might add a flush 100 miles before the change.
I also had a noise too when I did my change on the ol 5.4 2v like a lifter but after 5 minutes of driving its better this oil works great I went 6k miles with it and it came out blacker then coffee and had some goop at the end after a oil change 200 miles in I can feel it being less sluggish and my mileage improve Slightly (good with a gas hog like a 5.4) but im on my second run with the oil and so far it worked excellent
use synthetic oil and change your oil every 3 months or 5000 miles and you should have no problems with sludge. the oil is the life blood of your car. 😊valvoline advanced, mobil 1 , penzoil, castrol they all are basically the same so long as you change that life blood your car needs 😊
Can you not slide the heater core out without taking the whole dash out? From the look of it from your video , the heater core looks like it slides in the box ?? I'm needing to replace my heater core .
No chance of removing the heater core without pulling the dash on this model. I don't think any of the steps I showed in the video can really be skipped. I would also strongly recommend replacing the evaporator at the same time in case it's on the way out too. Not a job you want to have to do twice.
I agree in 95% of cases, but the blue Fram synthetic endurance filter has been proven to be a re-labeled Amsoil filter. It's a good one. The filter did its job in this case, it's just that no filter that size could hold the amount of junk that was being washed out in that engine.
If this oil does half of what it supposed to do, they’ll take it off the market. People will burn their engines up. Look at that transmission full flush machine at walmart. It didn’t last long because they were flushing transmission oil that was burnt and making the transmission go out.
Results with this stuff look good so far, only reason I could imagine them pulling it is backlash or lawsuits related to damage caused by using it in neglected engines and plugging up the oil filter. The ideal outcome, in my opinion, is for the oil to stay the same, while people with questionable motors just inspect and change their filters while using the stuff.
