My name is Rick Ciotti, and I started “The Paint Spot” in 2004 when it became obvious there was a “lack” of people selling materials in our industry who actually knew our industry. Our mission was and still is to “change the world one body shop at a time.” I started a shop, "Slix", in 1996 and gave it to my son several years ago, we use EVERYTHING we sell at The Paint Spot. If anything does not meet our criteria, it is not stocked and not sold at The Paint Spot, no matter how much potential profit might be involved! I am also quite involved in the “custom world” and sponsor many events and educational classes throughout the year. These classes are so extensive and so “hands-on”, that most people walk away fully able to start their own business… and many have! So, if you’re looking for affordable products, and the guaranty of the job coming out right the first time, every time, put The Paint Spot to the test. “Whatever It Takes” Rick Ciotti
First I pressed like, in one min what you Say I changed me mind. Few pneumatic rules, 1. IF you increase pressure, the air speed trough air cap air holes faster 2. If air comes faster it increase volume 3. If air speed increased, behind the air - to the air moving direction, increases air dynamic flow ( suction force ) So if you reduces pressure, you material is more gravity based follow, if increased pressure gravity + suction based flow so you say why I paint better with lower pressures, its rule nr2. if you increased pressure and volume and speed, in hot climate your clear coat particles becomes partial dry (not so wet) and on the surface it no flow so much, if you reduce pressure you not drying clear in the air and it flows better. Good bye.
A '51 Chevy pickup NEVER had a, from the factory, "STRAIGHT AXLE". It had a "BEAM AXLE". The only place you'll find a straight axle is an aftermarket piece like on a gasser. And it will be really straight.
The nr95 was a great gun! I hated them at first and the whole hvlp movement until I finally gave it a fair chance and got used to it, I was a die hard Jet 90 user, I absolutely loved it after a while for base especially. I still have a brand new nr95 I bought as a back up and stashed, won’t get rid of it. Personally, I never cared for the lph 400 or w400, they’re just too slow for me. Well made and they do atomize nicely but just not for me🤷🏻♂️ The plastic air valve inside the Iwata guns bothers me too, the Chinese have copied those guns dozens of times now and have at least made that valve out of brass lol. I think for the $ these guns cost Iwata could do the same. I do agree with you though that the Sata’s are definitely air hogs, definitely not for the guy painting in a garage with a small compressor. They’ve gotten more and more extreme with their pricing over the years also, long gone are the days of new Sata’s for $200 and some change
I am just getting into to painting at 51. I have been restoring motorcycles for about 10 years and always use others to paint my vision and designs. I am now Studying and cataloging everyone's techniques to try them and see what style I can create for myself to produce my standard. This is something I will document and use daily on my Journey in learning to paint. Thanks for sharing this!
Here's "What not to do".........don't start with a cheap, or inferior gun! You'll just be adding one more variable to the already "crowded variables". In my opinion, the only gun to have is: Iwata LPH-400, 1.3 fluid tip, and LVX (orange) air cap. There's nothing you will ever do, that can't be done flawlessly, with this gun.......PERIOD! Be careful about your purchase, these are the most counterfeited gun in the world! I've received 2 of them, and 1 Super Nova over the last 3 or 4 years, and I could NOT tell the difference until I removed the inner seals!!!! Only to find out a real one wouldn't fit.
A "paint gun" atomizes the paint so that it orients evenly. Part of the equation is the fluid tip size. A "primer gun" doesn't need to atomize, it needs to move material for "build". Because the build characteristics of primers are made up of Talc or Resin, or both, you need a larger fluid tip than a paint gun. I used to use old paint guns for primer, and that's a BAD idea! You'll reach a point where you're up against a wall, or you'll have to sacrifice your work because you're too cheap to buy the right tools! My primer gun is an Iwata "Air Gunsa" with a 3.0 fluid tip......it's the only primer gun you'll ever need. There's way too many viscosity primers out there, and you can dial a 3.0 down, but you can't dial a smaller tip UP...... it's basic math.
Been spraying for over 35 years what I have found out is that different clears lay differently I'm a big chromaclear from axalta yes it's a little pricey but you get what you pay for it lays like glass right out of the gun I can spray this stuff out of a Banks 2001 and a cheap harbor freight Black widow and it lays light Glass I love the new iwata ws 400 series 2 gun if you want to spend 800 to 900 bucks it is a awesome clear gun
I have both, Iwata's lays a better finish true, its downfall though is when you have a corner or jam. A SATA will give you the most control allowing fines, its the better all rounder IMHO.
NR95 was a great gun but the nr2000 1.5 sspecifically ( for some reason the 1.5 nozzle was actually smaller than the 1.4 ) was like magic for solvent basecoat. It's still my main gun for metallics to this day. I could not paint with the lph-400 with the orange cap for metallics, or the silver clear cap. The iwata is a better atomizer than Sata, but not better. Sata just has it down when it comes to replicating the factory finish. The DV1 i did not like either.
LPH400 is my favorite. Im rocking a silver cap 1.3. It sprays anything smooth and effortlessly. Metallics no problem if you adjust it right. If I spray at higher pressures I dont go higher than 26-28psi for clear. You can run these higher pressures if needed if you close the fan in some. Its a happier gun at lower pressures. Love the lower overspray. Probably the most versatile gun on the market. Cant beat it👍
Maybe your Devilbiss DV1 would spray better if you got the DV1-C made for clear rather than the DV1-B basecoat gun like you have. I have all 3 Devilbiss DV1 models. The clear gun I spray clear at 10psi. Will agree my DV1-B sprays mrtallic base better than anything I ever owned, all three guns work great. I use an Iwata Wider 4 1.8mm for surfacer/sealer. Also I use PPS 2.0 cups for three reasons. 1. It speeds up time, 2. Saves me money in lacquer thinner from having to clean out a gravity cup, 3. I can cap and save paint that had just been reduced with no catalyst added. The amount of time they save me, and the amount i save in lacquer thinner which is $23/per gallon now days does not make my paint job more expensive
NO. Doesn't matter what's in the gun, the optimal air pressure stays the same............ unless you're using a different kind of gun. That's EXACTLY why I prefer the Iwata LPH-400 :)
Hello Mr. Ciotti, Have you made the "beyond mosquito wall" book? if so, then I want to say that the book is amazing and thank you for being my teacher back in Margate 2017.
Would you know the paint code to the 1970 SS Nova interior dash /glovebox/black color code and is the windshield cowl the same color code? Just replaced the cowl and want to spray both. Thanks
Not sure what you mean about waiting on your LVX (that is the orange air cap for the LPH400). If you don't paint very often, and someone else is supplying the paint and clear, then use what you have. There's nothing wrong about using any type gun if that's all you have. But when you can afford something better, you'll be glad you did. :)
What are you referring to as the window channel? If it's where the windshield or rear window sets, I would NOT use epoxy! Etch the metal with Phosphoric acid (Ospho is a popular brand), and red scotch brite. Rinse with water and the same scotch brite. Dry immediately. spray "Clausens" Rust Defender, sand smooth, and paint...............that's BULLET PROOF!
@@GypsyNirvana Don't know what you paint, or who pays your labor and materials. But ,if it's someone else, then keep using a Sata. I have to consider ALL aspects before I make a recommendation.
Love the fact that you give out your hard earned knowledge so freely. Every time I see one of your videos I learn something new, (or unlearn something bad). 👍
Great informative video! Love your honesty. I will definitely be contacting you for some of these products. I always wondered if the whole epoxy primer deal was a myth. In another video you mentioned about the humidity staying on the bare sheet metal and the epoxy not being able to encapsulate that moisture therefore allowing rust to still occur. I’ve run into that issue myself. Totally covered a car in DP90. Did my filler on top of it and sealed over bodywork with DP90 again. It’s been on the car for 15 years and it always garage kept and has rarely ever been wet since. However I live in PA and summers are very humid and I’m noticing a couple of small bumps of filler starting to lift. Your explanation is the only one that makes sense. I always attempt to get the metal worked the very best I can, so my filler is never very thick so I couldn’t understand why this was happening. Next resto I do will get the Clausen for sure. Thanks again and keep this good content coming!
Do you (The Paint Spot) sell the Clausen polyester primers that you recommend? I’ve done lots of paint and body work over the years on my own restorations, and this is the first I’ve heard of it. I too drank the PPG kool aid and was less than happy with the results on more than one occasion. Always thought that I made a mistake somewhere even though I followed the P bulletins to the letter. Clausen will only sell 4 gallons of primer at a time on their website and for a hobby guy like myself, I’ll never need more than a gallon at a time. Love your old school approach to restorations and look forward to more content. Liked and subscribed
I would love to have you do my paint ... even though it would be about three days drive to get to your shop from where I live ... it would be time well spent, I think ...... 👍
My truck was repainted probably 20 year ago and for the most part it was done well. Some of the rubber trim still has paint on it after all this time. How do I get the paint off the rubber cause it seems like it’s there for good now.
So, if it's a "lip" of paint around the edge, then you can use the little pocket screwdriver trick I mentioned. If it's thin over sprayed looking (from blown out tape, etc), use the least aggressive chemical (I use recycled lacquer thinner a lot) that works on it. It can be tedious, but that's the way it goes. I've had tape come loose on production jobs a lot (happens all the time when you're using cheap tape), so as soon as I get the car unmasked, I clean it up with thinner.............if you wait, you'll regret it! :)
@@ThePaintSpotAutoBody thanks I’ll give the lacquer thinner a try. I’ve got mineral spirits here too. My truck is in storage until spring so I’ll give it try then. It’s been over 20 years since it was painted so what’s another few months. Hopefully it will come off easy enough.
Does this only apply to certain types of trim and paint? I've owned a few cars that have been resprayed and the over spray on the trim appeared to have been absorbed by the old trim and didn't come out no matter how much scratching I did.
Overspray is a different story. For that, you either need "overspray clay", or the least aggressive solvent you can find that breaks it up. If that doesn't work, you'll have to polish or paint the trim.
your explanation makes a lot of sense and I didn't figure it would need further clarification from the first time around! but thanks for the additional information and for sharing your knowledge! it is so awesome
