WOW, I just stumbled across the vid of the 58 straight axl. Dude, like your an old school guy like myself. I started combo work in 1971. Did about anything one could think of with a car, with not much failure at all. I'm retired and now and then I get on the kick of what paint and materials can do and what to avoid. Your very awesome in your knowledge and personation. Your vast knowledge should be heard by everyone in the trade and every instructions trying to teach the trade. There text book crap is for the birds, not so real world. First thing even before vid ended was I subscribed. I know the videos take time but please keep em Cumming. You really do your stuff the correct way and I love it. I'm finiky about others doing work on my stuff but you can work on my stuff anytime. That's meant as a huge compliment to you. Dave Hayden, Marysville Ca
Great informative video! Love your honesty. I will definitely be contacting you for some of these products. I always wondered if the whole epoxy primer deal was a myth. In another video you mentioned about the humidity staying on the bare sheet metal and the epoxy not being able to encapsulate that moisture therefore allowing rust to still occur. I’ve run into that issue myself. Totally covered a car in DP90. Did my filler on top of it and sealed over bodywork with DP90 again. It’s been on the car for 15 years and it always garage kept and has rarely ever been wet since. However I live in PA and summers are very humid and I’m noticing a couple of small bumps of filler starting to lift. Your explanation is the only one that makes sense. I always attempt to get the metal worked the very best I can, so my filler is never very thick so I couldn’t understand why this was happening. Next resto I do will get the Clausen for sure. Thanks again and keep this good content coming!
What are you referring to as the window channel? If it's where the windshield or rear window sets, I would NOT use epoxy! Etch the metal with Phosphoric acid (Ospho is a popular brand), and red scotch brite. Rinse with water and the same scotch brite. Dry immediately. spray "Clausens" Rust Defender, sand smooth, and paint...............that's BULLET PROOF!
Actually they are literally "Bullet Proof" if you know what the weak links are (axles and spider gears). Very easy to modify, and very cheap. I know everyone likes the 9" Ford, and I never could understand WHY anyone with a GM would put a FORD rear end in it???????? I like Ford products, and have several, and none of them have anything but a Ford rear end.
