It depends on your needs. The Trail Designs is longer burning for cooking but slower. I tend to use the Evernew for day trips for boiling water for a drink. It's too fierce for cooking and hasn't got the long burn time.
Yes indeed. One of life's true gentlemen and he adored his family. His death knocked me for six even though I'd only met him on a couple of occasions. He heat treated my first ever knife for me.
Tempering determines the final hardness/toughness balance which you require. I triple temper for two hours each time at a temperature that gives the balance I want.
My last job before I retired I ended up being the heat treater for a big machine shop and their TIG welder for certain jobs, but was hired as an engineer. Go figure huh? I became the heat treater because I mentioned to the owner that I made knives as a hobby. As the HT guy though I could do my own knives and use drop-off scrap if big enough for knives. I already had a working relationship with a HT company I used them for jobs that wouldn't fit into our oven which was 24 inches deep. Used D2 a lot for paper cutting blades that cut the "FOLD AND TEAR HERE" lines you see on envelopes and other things. HT always the same, 1200, hold then 1600 and hold the ramp to 1850 for 30 minutes and air blast with an air hose and paint sprayer misting water. Temper at 500 degrees for two hours then cryo in between blocks of dry ice in a cooler with 4 inch thick walls of Styrofoam for 4 days or 6 if a weekend was in the cycle. The dry ice had only half evaporated. Then into the HT oven to 1000 degrees for one hour, do not exceed one hour. It will be right at HRC60 with decent toughness for D2. D2 isn't a very tough steel like O1 for instance and if you want or need the toughest knife or ax you ever saw use S5 steel at 59-60 hard. The S stands for shock and S5 is better for knives that S7 which doesn't get as hard as S5. Worst thing you can do to D2 is overheat it by even 50 degrees. 1850 is D2's sweet spot like 1475 is O1's. A temper at 700 degrees the D2 will start getting harder until you hit 1000, it drops fast past there, like 1200 will get you HRC55 instead of the 60 at 1000. Now mind you at 700 it is still 57 hard, but if you want 55 or lower you're not getting it in your kitchen oven. For some industrial applications you need to go softer than HRC 59/60. Keep in mind that hardness is not the end all and be all of D2 as it will hold an edge at 58 as good as 60. What gives D2 its abrasion resistance or edge holding is the chromium and vanadium carbides it makes. As quenched D2 is 63 to 64 hard and 63 is preferable for toughness and too fast of a quench can setup stresses in the matrix of the knife. Knifemaker Ray Rogers told me he had a D2 knife crack and break apart 3 weeks after he finished it, but he had also forged it too. Something he called a nightmare because D2 must be forged at 2000 degrees. SAFETY TIP, wear a tinted face shield if tempted to try it as the light will harm your eyes and even a regular forge is long term harmful as well if you stare into it too much and don't even think about heat treating D2 in a forge. It heats up too fast and easily overheats.
@@rarknivesandleatherwork8045 You're very welcome. Everything I learned about D2 came pretty much from Hinderliter HT in OKC, OK. That 1.50% of Carbon in D2 guarantees that the Chromium and Vanadium will make carbides, but look at AEB-L steel with its 0.60% carbon. That is to ensure that the Chromium does not turn into carbide. Therefore the chromium doesn't convert into austenite and lose its stainless properties. AEB-L achieves its hardness from mostly Ferrite or Iron Carbide and should have a shallow cryo treatment of -95 F. I used dry ice at -110 and simply put the blades between the blocks. I tried the mixing it with one of kerosene or alcohol, then acetone to make a slurry, but it used up a bunch of dry ice, made a mess and the acetone was just plain scary. So I just built a box with Styrofoam 4" thick slightly bigger than the 10lb blocks I could buy at the grocery store. I lined the inside with an 18 gauge, .051 stainless box that nested into the foam and made the outside out of aluminum that the foam dropped down into. It could hold 3 blocks of dry ice for over a week. (Safety note, if using dry ice store in a well ventilated area. It could make a basement into a death trap.)
D2 difficult heat treatment with raping stops to critical temp . Triple temper . I use 99% alcohol with dray ice in a strophe picnic container for cryo , till the dry ice evaporates through a hole in the lid . pour the alcohol back into bottle .
As you have the instructions do they tell you how many pump strokes to give on lighting and with a full tank. It would have been useful to show how to turn the lamp off as many people do this incorrectly. Also some safety hints, how hot it gets and could burn,especially children. Also never fill the lamp with fuel at the same place you light it as any spilt fuel could catch fire. Keep meths and fuel away from the lamp when lighting and when in use.
Just found your channel through Loz & Zed. Beautiful craftsmanship & wonderful attention to details! I adore the dragons & love all the colors, blending/shading, & stamping.
Excellent vid Rob. I've just picked up one of these stove's from Military mart, And thought id check out some ideas. Great mods buddy, really impressed with what you have done with it. Thank you for sharing mate. All the best, Jay
Finally a realistic workshop video with a fellow English person in it with no bullshit or nonsense contained in it or the video. I love your workshop too as it reminds me of mine when I first started off at the age of 12 Excellent video keep up the great work 😊👍🏻
Really nice shop. A bit similar to mine but a few feet longer. I like the fact that you don't have loads of clutter in your shop. Something I need to aspire to!
And I did get myself one (or two)! Picked up a Nice hardly used Green M1. Going to check it out in a couple of days when we go camping (At last). I also got a decent Bialaddin Vaparlux 320 which needs a bit of restoration. Subscribed.
@@rarknivesandleatherwork8045 It all started when I bought a brand new Coleman from Amazon. Then just out of curiosity I started looking on Ebay to see what the older ones were like. I had heard of Tilley, but never heard of Willis & Bates (and I used to live in Halifax!). Before I knew it, i had bid on a couple or 3 and got them at a very good price. The Coleman is still in the box unused. I am learning how to take them apart and service them, but they are all up and running ok. This is an unexpected new hobby.....
In terms of security, a cheap burglar alarm system would do just fine. The alarm box itself is a good deterrent and any one trying to break in wouldn’t have much time with an alarm blaring. Maybe a dummy camera/s on the shed itself too.
About 5 years ago I was fortunate to acquire a vintage petromax 523/500cp that appears unused..I knew and still know very little to nothing about these lanterns... but it was an incredible piece I just had to have. I look at it daily as it is perfect, but I never fired it up. Since recently retiring I am fascinated by paraffin pressure lamps and stoves and am now addicted and learning as much as I can. Researching Utube I found your channel and this video....BY FAR the best and most informative I have found. Thank you! if you ever get to the west coast of Florida on holiday, lunch and beer is on me.
Thank you, the Petromax is a beautiful lantern, I have several. They are a bit like the F1 racing car of lanterns - brilliant when they work but need setting up just right.
I recently bought one !Got it off Ebay...paid quite a few quid for it...in really good condition.Advertised as fully functional but advised to change the seals and buy a new mantle,which I did.However I had problems immediately with flames rising from the mantle which would not burn white.So did a little research and bought a new vaporizer which cured the problem.Expensive lamp now though!
I have found this woodworking book “Bαzοmο Tdy Plαn” (Google it) well suited for me. Not just does it cover wood working techniques, however it even describes the development cycles of trees that lead to the characteristics that craftsmen find advantageous in lumber. I also provided my dad another copy. .
I was researching and trying to describe about my stay up in the mountains of Lebanon where they still use this kind of lighting, and came across your video.. Thank you, it helped
Nice it’s good to see someone who hasn’t got all the money in the world, this video really appealed to me as I am in the very early stage of doing my workshop
