I liked the results on the soap and folkart paint just as well. More than good enough for me. Cant believe I only gound your channel recently. I love watching videos with this type of crafting. You make it look so easy and its satisfying to watch. New sub ✅
I see this so good for scenery like porous rocks. But what about action figures? Not miniatures, but something like 8” or so. Would this be suitable for textures in figures?
I get that you have called your more expensive product combo - a “premium” because of price…..but holy! Acrylic vs the standard ink ( which is what you’re using ) ..,where Acrylic is the quality product - every single time!! It comes down to what’s is providing the colour to each of your mixes. Acrylic is pretty much 100% going to be a Pigment and the Ink will be using a Dye. Although using dye to provide the colour has its uses, you have to remember one big thing. Dyes are incredibly susceptible to fading . So much that black ink can go from dead black to barely being noticeable. It fades so much and so fast that it can actually disappear on the work. In a consistently daily lit studio, I’ve seen it disappear in 3 months. These dyes just really don’t hold up to any well lit environment. Pigments are a totally different thing. These days it’s pretty hard to find acrylic paint, where the pigment used matches or is worse than a dye when it comes to sensitivity to light. And “pigments” are the key to that stability. So you can have an ink wash that you paid more for the parts of it ( mainly the liquitex flow release - a product that’s totally worth it) - and it may even behave slightly than your first mix of wash. But, dude, what good is it if it just changes it’s appearance over less than a year removing the effect that you paid for - and ends up just going away? If you love using ink for whatever reason, buy a pigmented ink. Make sure it says it on the label. And an acrylic ink would be incredibly better. Slightly more expensive - likely. But it’ll be there 6 months or 20 years from now. And because it’s acrylic, you’ll be able to do different effects on top of that dried wash and never accidentally wipe it off. Most scenery and gaming will have good lighting over it to enhance its appearance and gameplay. But if it’s ink on that mini or scenery, that awesome lighting will be fading that nice ink wash effect you’ve done on it just much more quickly. As much as I used ink in my washes a long time ago, I’ll never use it now. I’ve also taught painting as my job, for 33 years. So I’ve got some time to look back upon even if it’s to shake my head. Forget the ink. Choose a pigmented ink or an acrylic ink if you must. Save the work that you are so happy with. Cheers
What's the name of the instrument that you are using to cut the beams so straight? 😮 Also i've been looking for guide on how to texture stone and wood for a long time! Than you for posting this extensive guide! I always wanted to start miniature crafting, but didn't have any knowledge on how to proceed.
I had problems actually to find someone teaching step by step like u do. And explain along the way why you do some details. This is very good tutorials you’ve done. Thank you. 💜
Why not just use a empty 1 gallon paint can add rocks and foam then shake, keep doing this until you get texture you want , just use smaller rocks with sharp edges 1-1 1/2 inches you want to texture the foam not pulverize it
I just found this channel and I love it! But I'm seeing that the most recent video is almost a year and a half old? What happened is he done making videos?
I would like to watch a bonsai tree being made with the same or similar technique. Also, instead of ready-made greens sold in the market, I would like to see how grass, greenery and flowers are made at home with limited opportunities.
Great work and following along! Also, Not all Dollar Trees in the US have the readi foam BUUUT I've tracked down some equal materials Foam Where: Office Depot Material: White Foam Board 20inx30in Outside Foam (for accents) Where: Home Depot Material: Foamular NGX
