I haven't but I don't typically use shampoos in a foam lance, I tend to stick with traditional snowfoams for that - although, I have tried the shampoo/lance method with other shampoos... It's just not really a process I enjoy to be honest, I prefer the traditional bucket method 👍🏼
Thank you Mark! I've used UHD wax but not on a video... Not yet 😉 I have something very similar to what you've suggested in the pipeline, hopefully going to film it this winter 👌🏼
Depends where I am lol - at home I use the Ava, I use it 95% of the time for car cleaning, have done for nearly 2 years now. When you see me using the Kärcher I'm actually at my dad's house, I keep the Kärcher there for practical reasons - he can use it too and saves me lugging the Ava about (it's not exactly light!) So to answer you question, I would (and do!) choose to use the Ava over the Kärcher - but the 2 I have are not really comparable machines - I have the Ava P80 which spec wise is close to a K7, not my K4 Hopefully that answers your question 👍🏼
From my own experience, no. A friend of mine has a K4 Compact and as far as I can tell from specs and using both, they are mechanically identical - one just basically has a body kit! 👍🏼
Haha couldn't think of any other way to describe it lol But personally I'd do the same... I use a 20m hose on my K4 and the bigger unit houses it! Plus, like you said, it has different spaces for the attachments 👍🏼👍🏼
@@SparkleanAutos Looking on the Karcher outlet site. There's a K4 premium and K4 power control. The Premium is £60 more, all I can is it comes with the a hose reel (easier to store the hose?). Thinking of getting a rubber hose as well. (hose from the machine to lance, NOT the tap side)
The hose I can't recommend highly enough - the standard Kärcher thermoplastic hoses are so frustrating whereas these make life so much easier. I have the 20m one but tbh, 15m or even 10m would still be a massive improvement, just for the hose quality alone! www.in2detailing.co.uk/products/karcher-k-series-c-clip-to-c-clip-reinforced-heavy-duty-rubber-replacement-hose?variant=32368465313871&ghref=3377%3A554508 As for the machine itself, obviously entirely your call but I would rather save the money to spend on other accessories 👍🏼
To clean around it... I don't blast it into the filler neck - this is absolutely harmless if you know what you're doing (I've over 30 years experience of working with cars 👍🏼)
Great video and will certainly use this method. Will The citrus prewash remove current wax, protection etc. recently bought BH touchless and that seems to remove everything!!! Don’t really want to have to polish, re-wax the car each time. Thanks
At this dilution no, the citrus wash won't remove any more of your protection than a contact wash will 👍🏼👍🏼 I still have to try Touch-Less but it is higher than high on my to do list lol Thanks for the comments 🙂👍🏼
Sorry Alex, I had a look for your expert channel but can't find anything 🤔 strange. Anyway the following information, directly from Koch Chemie's website will probably help you in future - I wouldn't want you making an arse of yourself 👍🏼 "Depending on the dirt accumulation: cleaning vehicle exteriors and engines use a 1:5 to 1:30 solution."
My Black Matt original a45 wheels (2017) are just now not worth the effort for cleaning now. I spent over an hour with them yesterday and they are never super clean anymore. Looking at some nice black gloss alloys to replace them.
Black wheels are just like black cars themselves - they look great when in great condition, but they highlight every single defect!!! I hope something in this video helps with your new gloss black wheels!!
"Thank you for sharing such valuable insights! Your videos always inspire and educate me. I appreciate your dedication to creating content that makes a difference. Looking forward to your next upload!"
Not exactly - I would never really describe any snow foam as the 'best' as there are too many different scenarios that require different products - winter grime, light dusting in summer etc. But I will say that from the ValetPro range, Snow Foam Combo 2 is the 'Most Powerful' in terms of cleaning power 👍🏼
That's the standard AVA hose, I think it's 8m, possibly 10m? On my Kärcher I use a 20m reinforced flexible hose - www.in2detailing.co.uk/products/karcher-k-series-c-clip-to-c-clip-reinforced-heavy-duty-rubber-replacement-hose?variant=32368465313871&ghref=3377%3A554508
Looks a brilliant wax for its price and its presentation is first class...... I'd honestly have expected another £15-£20 onto that price (and more) from a big brand company
Easily Peter, especially for a pot this size!! Don't get me wrong, it's not a 'game changer' or some 'mind-blowing' gloss enhancing wax - but it's a solid performer and it's incredibly easy to use... Great value for money 💰
I completely agree, and anyone experienced enough with car care/detailing should know that... BUT... It doesn't say that on the bottle, and this series is about following instructions the way any casual user would 👍🏼
Would there be any benefit to layering this ? I found a bottle in my garage so would it be worth applying it dry and then going round again for a second coating ? Thanks.🙏
It's a good question... I can't say yes or no but it certainly wouldn't do any harm... But I wouldn't apply it straight away - with 'true' ceramic coatings you should leave 3-4 hours between coats and, although this isn't a proper ceramic coating, it does contain some of the same chemical properties and I would suggest a similar method... Certainly at least 2 hours to allow some curing 👍🏼 To be honest though, if you wanted to be really sure what is best, you could contact AutoGlym's own technical support team 👍🏼
Depends on the polish... If it's AutoGlym SRP, or any other type of glaze/all-in-one polish then I would leave as long as possible - although these polished do contain some mild abrasives for paint correction, they are primarily 'fillers' and as such would need curing time - ideally 24 hours but that's probably overkill, I would still wait at least 4-6 hours, 12 if it's practical! If you're using a 'proper' abrasive polish (or 2 stage polishing) with a machine then you'd be fine to go straight in afterwards, although you would certainly need to use a panel wipe of some sort to remove the polishing oils - but DON'T do this with a glaze/all-in-one polish as you'll just remove that filers again! Hope that helps and isn't even more confusing?!
Thanks Alex... I'm not a caravan expert so probably not the best person to ask (I don't want to give you bad information!) but I've read from numerous sources that you shouldn't 'seal' the underside of a caravan - not with the likes of Waxoil etc that people would use on a cars underbody! Apparently this is because the underside of the wooden floor/frame needs to breathe and the wood is treated anyway. But to be honest you would be better speaking with a caravan expert, something I most definitely am not 🤣👍🏼
Thanks for the reply, “surgery” was supposed to say “superb” by the way haha That makes sense now you’ve said it, I just hear horror studies of rotten boards underneath but maybe they are the lesser or two evils
@@alexlomas1424 haha I assumed 'surgery' was an autocorrect word, my phone does that every day! Like I said I'm no expert on caravans, certainly not underbodies, but I have read that the underside shouldn't be sealed the same way you would a car, for that very reason! 👍🏼
Yes, always set the foam cannon for maximum pick-up (which is generally indicated as '-' on most lances... The + and - refer to water flow from the pressure washer, and less flow will increase pick-up 👍🏼)
You CAN dilute reactive wheel cleaners up to 50% but it's not generally recommended as it won't be as effective... Better to use it full strength every 2-3 months 👍🏼
Great video. Just bought my first 5ltrs or TFR after purposely avoiding it for years. However, I now have a car that is filthy and I need it thoroughly clean before doing a machine polish. Tried various snowfoams and never been massively impressed so gonna have a go with TFR
The right TFR is an essential part of any cleaning arsenal in my opinion - the one I've used here is a non-caustic TFR, which is important, particularly if it's going to be used regularly 👍🏼 Glad you liked the video, thank you 👍🏼
For a job like this, with overspray or large amounts of decontamination, there's absolutely no substitute for a proper clay bar, in my opinion! Clay mitts/pads etc are fine if a car is regularly decontaminated, but they aren't suitable for a 'proper' decontamination as far as I'm concerned 👍🏼
@SparkleanAutos thanks for the lightning quick response! I found that I'm using a lot more elbow grease to properly decon with synthetic clay than traditional clay. I use fine grade clay bars but medium grade synthetic clay to get the same results. Also- you have one of my absolute favorite channels. I love your presentation and your technique is world class. Keep making videos and I hope your subscriber count really explodes in popularity. Top quality work and a great sense of humor. Your channel is a hidden gem that I will do my part in promoting.
😳 wow, I really appreciate that!! Thank you!! Yeah the synthetic bars and mitts are ok if you know there's not much there - for example it's your own car, you gave it a good clay 12 months earlier, plus a good machine polish... and it gets a chemical decon every 6-8 weeks! Beyond that, I'd stick with a proper bar, for the sake of an extra few minutes!! Thanks again for the kind words & support .. and I hope you're right about the subscriber growth 🤣🤣
im new to this stuff, I bought a karcher foam gun thing for my pressure washer and this halfords snow foam the other day, can you recommend a better snow foam? ive not opened the halfords snow foam so could still take it back for a refund! or maybe I could use this im a beginner and then buy better snow foam next time round? any advice appreciated, cheers
Welcome to the hobby!! First thing I'll say is it's a big rabbit hole that you could endlessly fall down! So before you go too far, ask yourself what your expectations are from products - but this will change over time too! As for snow foams.. there are generally 2 different types - The majority create foam but have very little actual cleaning power and this Halfords one falls into that bracket. These generally say pH neutral on the label. They can still help but better if you use some form of prewash underneath (citrus wash or a non-caustic TFR). Then there are the high-alkaline snow foams which do provide some cleaning power but the downside for some people is they also degrade any protection that's on the car (waxes, sealants etc.). Here's a video I made on pre-wash process and why it's important - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BjJaOxgtJfA.html Hopefully this helps a bit but feel free to ask me anything, any time 👍🏼 Main thing to remember is to enjoy the hobby and avoid the rabbit hole!!
This is the first video ive seen using weight and yes its a lot, lot simpler but still comes close to the average figure of 1% is 100ml diluted to 1 litre and this is the same irrespective of what methods of calculation I've seen used ...... Yes i know its hardly scientific but for say a 4% PIR I've seen fugures quoted of between 380-420mls of snow foam to 1 litre and lets face it most of us arent going to measure out exactly 380 or 420ml and will use our trusted kitchen jug and measure out roughly 400mls
You're 100% correct Peter... To be honest I do this once when I get a new machine or lance but results are always the same so for simplicity I just stick with 100ml/Litre is 1% General I don't make up that much, but same principle so I use 30-40ml and make up a 300-400ml solution for 1 car! Why complicate it lol 👍🏼
@@SparkleanAutos ..... I trained as an industrial chemist so mixing up solutions was in the early years a big part of the job and it just cracks me up watching people say they've got 12 litres in a 15 litre bucket judging by the graduations on its side or measuring it out in a plastic kitchen jug that's accurate to about 50ml then saying the calculation is 388ml to a litre ..... I'm more worried that even with my new Karcher HD 4/8 pressure washer I'm still needing a litre to foam the whole car, it's a Skoda Superb Hatch so a big car, when I watch videos of folk doing there's with 400-500mls
Very interesting video and satisfactory pre-wash! Personally I really struggle liking citrus products, the ones I’ve used I don’t use in the winter as they just don’t work very well.
Thanks Greg. I'll admit that prior to my RU-vid channel, I wasn't a big fan of Citrus products either and rarely used them. I have stronger products that are still LSP safe but there are a few citrus pre-washes that I have found myself using more and more regularly!
You could if you wanted to, you had that much spare time, and you didn't mind wasting product and electricity... Once a week (generally) is plenty for me though 🙂👍🏼
You could if you wanted to, you had that much spare time, and you didn't mind wasting product and electricity... Once a week (generally) is plenty for me though 🙂👍🏼
Flipping heck, I got an unopened bottle here. Still to use. But I will give it a go, I always like to give a product a go, especially if I have a bottle in my garage already, I mean in my hand as I watch your video 😂😅😂 I also do understand different PH levels and strengths, I have had irritations from high pH level products before as I use washing mits also, so if this cleans enough of 1st go, it may suffice. Plus mine is an older car, so paint protection is also a concern. Great video thou. 😊
Every product has a use somewhere... I may have been a bit harsh on this one or expected too much in the circumstances! But I was very disappointed on the day! Hopefully you have more joy with it! 👍🏼😁
The exact same process was carried out on both sides prior to testing, to keep it fair... The polish was Koch Chemie F6 and the panel wipe was my own mixture of 80% water, almost 20% IPA and a small amount of degreaser 👍🏼
You are correct in the sense that what people would recognise as 'real' ceramic coatings generally come in glass bottles... Ceramics are basically made up of 3 things - solids, solvents & additives. Whereas ceramic coatings are typically around 50%+ solids, and once opened typically have a shorter shelf life... ceramic spray sealants can be as low as 10% solids, and as such it's absolutely fine to store & transport them in larger plastic bottles. Once applied they typically last 3-6 months (despite some bottles saying up to 12 months!), and will be applied more often. So products like are still ceramic, the same way that a fast food burger is still a beef burger despite the sometimes questionable amount of beef! 👍🏼
Hi - unrelated to this product but I’m really impressed with the microfibre drying cloth so just wondered if you could share what brand it is, please? I’ve bought a few (some really expensive!) but none appear as absorbable as the one you use. Thanks in advance.
Hi Jon, the one I'm using there is the Autobrite Direct Ultimate Drying Towel... (See links at the bottom of this message!) I genuinely really like this one, so much so I have 3 of them now! I find the key is to dampen them first - for me the best way to do that is to dry the glass first - then just lightly drag it across the panel the way you see me doing here. I don't wash them after every use, just let them air dry somewhere clean (takes a day or 2!) then put them back in the sealed bag. I clean them every 5 or 6 washes... For cleaning them i used to just use plain supermarket's own branded non-bios, about 20-30ml and ABSOLUTELY NO FABRIC SOFTENER... but recently I actually got some Autobrite Direct Clean Towels in offer from Amazon and it really made the towels like new again! Towel - www.in2detailing.co.uk/collections/autobrite-direct/products/autobrite-direct-ultimate-drying-towel?variant=40869457461327&ghref=3377%3A554508 Towel Detergent - www.in2detailing.co.uk/collections/autobrite-direct/products/autobrite-direct-clean-towels-microfibre-wash-detergent?variant=40088608538703&ghref=3377%3A554508
@@SparkleanAutos Hi Mark - you’ve been amazing (and quick with replying)! Thanks so much. I’ve never thought about not using softener when cleaning them - I’ll definitely do that from now on. Cheers for the links. A new sub from me!
😁😁 much appreciated Jon, every sub means a lot! I'm no expert but any time you have a question just pop it into any of the videos and if I can find the answer I'll help you out 🙂👍🏼
That’s brilliant, thanks Mark 👍 I am a proud owner of an Audi S5 and 4 Series BMW so always looking for ways to keep my babies (expensive monthly payment babies…. 🙄) looking every bit as nice as possible! They need to just to warrant me paying a mortgage on them… lol… boys and their toys, eh…. 🙄😂🤣😂 thanks again, Mark. You’ve been a great help 😉
also holding nozzle too close to the seals and letters for my liking, but doesnt look too high pressure either. anyways if it was my car i would not enjoy you washing so close to seals, chromes and everything. i mean pause at 8:17, nozzle is near 1.5cm. To my eye it just looks like youre trying to stay real comfortable washing the car, even if there was a spot its an easy toothbrush/sponge job. Some areas there are microchips in the clearcoat and on white paint like that you wouldnt see that, just causing trouble and possibly chipping extra coating. Mini/BMW are both known for clearcoat issues.
Hi Paul... Well the simple answer is, if you spray water onto the bonnet and it just 'sits' there, as in it's not sheeting off or beading into small droplets, it means the water is in direct contact with the paintwork - What the protection actually does is put a 'barrier' between the paintwork and the environment... This makes it easier to clean, and the easier it is to clean the less chance there is of causing damage. Hope that answers your question!
Thank you Phil, feedback like this is very much appreciated, thank you for taking the time to watch the video and comment! I plan on making a few more AutoGlym videos in the coming months so if you're interested, please subscribe 😁👍🏼
It's not really a dilutable product, it's a reactive wheel cleaner that's ready to use but these products aren't really for regular use, maybe once every 2-3 months. I wouldn't recommend diluting it as it won't be as effective 👍🏼
Hi Jonathan - If you mean Aqua Wax then the simple answer is no - the idea is the same in terms of the wet application, but Aqua Wax is a carnauba-based sprayable wax, whereas this product is a ceramic-based protection spray - both essentially do the same thing but chemically in a different way! 👍🏼
cool... and cool from valet pro trying to save their image.. but there is plenty of bad reviews of that citrus pre wash so... even tho they have better products, doesnt change the fact that, that specific one is a bad product... i guess they are in a draw right now 🤣
There are plenty of negative reviews yes, but in ValetPro's defence, they have taken that on board and are redeveloping it... A lot of brands will simply ignore negatives or, and this is a massive growing trend(!), they'll ONLY send products out to people who'll give a positive review regardless! That's a more worrying thing for me regarding social media and 'product reviewing' - but there are still a few of us who are actually willing to be honest, and negative if necessary!!! 👍🏼 But yeah, as a pre-wash for a properly dirty car, ValetPro Citrus Pre-wash wouldn't be my first choice ... Maybe it's more suited to light maintenance work!
