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That's incorrect. There's the same amount of pressure on both jaws. The fixed jaw is twice as strong as the moveable jaw. Look at the contact points. The way you are using the adjustable wrench the leverage advantage is against the weak jaw. Test 2 wrenches in a press and see which way holds up the best. The press will need a pressure gauge.
I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you. There's no argument that the fixed jaw is significantly stronger than the moveable jaw. I can't speak to the value of 2x as strong, and I'm sure you don't have the science to substantiate that claim either. And, I don't have to test them in a press to know which way the tool functions best. You can simply speak to manufacturers of these types of wrenches who design them to understand that they are designed to have forces applied in a specific direction. Use them as they weren't intended and they just don't have the same strength; it's just that simple. You can easily test this with channel lock style pliers. Try gripping a piece of 3/4" OD alum round bar with the jaws one way and then try to use them the opposite way. In the direction they are designed to be used, the jaws will naturally bite down on the material and grip it securely. Flip the pliers around and the pliers will rotate on the soft piece of alum without the jaws gripping the material. And thanks for the pro-tip with the pressure gauge, I would have never thought of that.
I agree with you about the pliers. I don't have access to a press or I would make a video and test them. The reason the manufacturers are wrong might have to do with tradition. That's the way most people use them. Or maybe they want to sell more wrenches, especially after someone uses a cheater on it.
@@johnpapa8681 With regards adjustable wrenches, keep in mind that the only reason the moveable jaw is there is to keep the fixed jaw on the fastener. The majority of the forces, when used as intended, are applied to the fixed jaw. I encourage you to perform your own test to see for yourself.
@@billetproofdesigns5609 what you are saying about the jaws isn't possible. The same amount of force will be on both jaws. What would cause there to be a difference?
Great question. If the tank is aluminum or steel, you can install this type of fuel gauge. If it's a composite material, you won't be able to weld the bungs into place. However, there are alternative ways to affix the bungs to the tank.
Great question. 'Channel Lock' style pliers are designed to rotate things. Grabbing something to pull isn't necessarily what they are designed to do, however you can make them work. Some pins are difficult to 'grab' because the pin material is harder than the pliers making it difficult for the jaws of the pliers to hold the pin. If you can grab the pin and rotate at the same time you are pulling, that technique works best because it breaks the friction that's holding the pin in the pin bore. If the pin has a head on it, even better because it allows you to get a better purchase on the pin. 'Hooking the head of the pin, or making certain that one of the jaws of the pliers is grabbing the head, ensure that the pliers will retain the grip on the pin. Just be careful not to mar the pin too badly to where it can't be used again. Thanks for the question and have a great day.
I agree that most of the time, people use them because they're too lazy to get the right wrench, but as a vehicle alignment tech, I have seen some absolutely wild tie rod nuts. Wrong hardware, rusted, rounded, you name it. I use adjustables quite a bit, and this video was quick and to the point with great info and an easy way to remember. Thank you!
I suprised nobody has made an electronic fuel gauge and sender unit for older bikes.. youd just have to mske a fuel cap that screws in and stays there and then use capacitive sensor like harleys oem sender and then run two wires up out of the now semi permanent fuel cap so we can run power to it and have the readout around the edge of the insert for the fuel cap then simply have a smaller cap that screws out to fill up the tank with fuel... and with the sender unit being extendable you could have extendion pieces so we can make it longer or shorter for different tanks. I know myself and some others that would buy it even if it cost 300 or more bucks to not have to track miles or check the tank and instead just look st the fuel cap and see how many lights i have left even if its not perfeftly touching the bottom of the tank atleast it would allow me to update my older bikes
Thanks for leaving the comment. Although a great idea for a new product, I don't think this is something we'll be tackling anytime in the near future. Thank you and enjoy the ride.
We vent the caps with an o-ring that's grooved and it works very well. Vent hoses are ugly and this way eliminates them. Thanks for the concern and interest in our parts.
Good morning Goran. I'm assuming when you said 'blocks' you meant 'locks'. I'm not quite sure what style adjustable you are using, however I'll assume you're using the type that adjusts with a worm gear. If that's the case, you may have an inexpensive adjustable or it might not adjust because there is still some force on the work gear. The next time it locks up on you, tap the moveable jaw on something to relieve the pressure on the worm gear. Since the gear is so small that your trying to rotate, you don't have that much leverage, so any additional forces on that gear will make it tough to rotate. Good luck,
It’s nice to know that when I failed a test in fluid power course on tool identification, that indeed in industry, what they called a slotted adjustable on the test, is in fact, A CHANEL LOCK WRENCH. Thank you for winning a bet for me. Now only if the internet results for pictures match this fact…
You can use either teflon tape or a paste with teflon. You can also use both at the same time if you like. Another product that works quite well is called Blue Goo. Works great but gets on everything and can sometimes make fasteners difficult to unthread.
Good morning. You can visit our website at www.billetproofdesign.com. You can search 'battery box' or navigate through the categories once you're on our homepage. Thank you and please feel free to reach out to us if you have questions.
I want to change to a right sided petcock. I have a stock 2001 883. What petcock do you recommend? What do i do with the voes? Go directly to the CV carb? Should i get a OEM style or high flow petcock? Future plans is a 2000i dynatek ignition and probably hammer performance 1275 kit.
If you are concerned with fuel flow, you can't go wrong with a Pingel or Golan fuel petcock. Both are top of the line and are fully rebuildable. They aren't cheap, however they are hands down the best. Both make high flow options, however I really don't know if you're going to need it with even the 1275 kit. As for the VOES, if you are going to an electronic ignition with electronic advance, plug the VOES and just get rid of that switch.
@@billetproofdesigns5609 yeah brother, life is all about having fun with your buddies and brothers hanging out with/out No one getting harmed. 1/2 hour to clear out. 😲😲🤣🤣🤣 That clip was funny as heck to me, sir... I really needed the laughter on that day with being DOWN SPIRITUALLY AND EMOTIONAL! THANKS FOR THAT AND KNOW GOD LOVES YOU IF YOU DON'T KNOW IT. AND, SO DO I IN CHRIST! 1 John 4:20. y'all take care be SAFE AND PLEASE POST SOME MORE FUNNY STUFF!!!!!!!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍✌️
I have also recorded in mind, procedure as MID,, which equals to movable jaw in direction of rotation. I am 70 years old and Indian. I use tools for DIY only. I am engg graduate of 76 batch. Now enjoying Retired life happily, along with grand children in India.
We Indians are accustomed to British tone and not at all US tone while hearing English. When I heard you, I understood every word and procedure despite you are from Penn. Probably you had British ancestors. I see lot of Holywood films on TV. But every time I need a Headphone. Still I fail to understand 100%. May God always with you.
Pump the brakes 1985 and keep the negativity to a minimum please. It remains here to spark creativity among others and to provide ideas and alternative solutions.
So simple lmao wish I had thought of this. Thats like 9 bucks worth at Lowes lol. Top to bottom, make sure the top is very flush to fill the hose when the tanks full. Can see with the hose lol.
The battery box itself it cut from 11ga HRPO steel which equates to about 0.120" THK. The top clamp is laser cut from 7ga HRPO Steel, or 0.179" THK. Thanks for looking.
You're welcome. Now that you know how adjustables and channel lock type pliers work, you can try using them both ways so you can see the difference in how much harder they grab the fastener. With regards to the channel locks, when used the correct way, you barely have to squeeze the pliers in order for them to 'bite'. Have a great 4th!
Will the bushing be able to handle the repetitive micro sliding(on the spacer) in the long run? Wont there be integrity issue with bronze bushing being worn or dented having it get stuck on the axlespacer?
Good day and thanks for the interest. That's the entire idea of a bushing. Would you rather replace the entire bracket or a $15 bushing. I think you are thinking about this a bit too hard. If the bracket is trapped when mounted the bushing takes very little abuse as there is virtually no movement between the axle and bushing. If you have a floating set up, the bushing will last for tens of thousands of miles before it needs to be replaced. Nothing is rotating between the spacer and bushing and the little movement that does occur is so minimal, it's almost negligible. Thanks for reaching out and hit us up if you have any more questions. Cheers!
@@billetproofdesigns5609 good to know. Your method addresses soooo many concerns i had about procuring washers, spacers, fittings etc. to fill gaps and all. Im gonna try this. Thank you!
@@koonsickgreen6272 I'm really glad I could help! If you have any more questions about this product, please check us out on the web at billetproofdesign.com. If you do call in, ask for Damian. Thanks brother and be well.
I wish I could take credit for it, we just made it better with the frenched bungs we now use. They pull the 90 degree barb fitting in closer to the tank for a much cleaner look. It's the details that matter most!
Good morning and thanks for the interest. You can find one of the gauges here: www.billetproofdesign.com/billet-proof-sight-window-gas-oil-tank-gauge-with-steel-bungs-brushed-aluminum-barrel-style-made-in-usa/. It sounds like you might be on BULLET PROOF's site and not BILLET PROOF's site.
