can this method be used on marine outboards cast aluminum? i do not have access to tig or mig. i do have a small inverter stick welder ingco 160 amp. if the pieces im welding is thin can i tack then chip slag then tack again until i complete the length of the area i need welded? that way i dont melt the entire piece? i need your professional advice.
@@pauls330 theoretically you can use this rod for aluminum castings. If your inverter is “good enough” I don’t know. The approach of tack and chip slag does not sound like a winning strategy….. you need some preheat and you also do better with longer ish welds….
@@ZILAwelds what i mean by tack and chip is like spot welding. tack a few spots then chip the flux off then tack few more spots and chip flux again until all is welded. im talking about thin cast aluminum. i would not want the entire thing to melt.
@@pauls330 well. If it is that thin, maybe this is not the right process…. With 3/32” rods I can weld as this as 1/8”. And you would want to weld a continuous weld, aluminum, even cast is nothing like cast iron…. Also,you need heat for the slag to release correctly …. Chipping and wire brushing will only get you so far …. Hot water, a stiff nylon brush and maybe some dawn will help you get remaining “slag” off …. This is nothing like steel welding
Hey Peter, I need to run my PP220 off of a generator, just short circuit MiG. What watt generator do I need? I’ve got access to a 28k peak Westinghouse, runs at 20k. Also do I need to have what you guys call “clean” power with the harmonics and all that? Don’t wanna burn my machine up.
indeed great job guys not many people use stick method for aluminum but you proved that with some good prep and preheat knowing your machine well you can achieve some great results nicely done
Nope, I trust the video Whistling Diesel did. You are bolting a steel piece onto an aluminum frame and I think if people tow a lot with the CT you will see more failures.
Well now I wonder, what happens when your trailer is getting swayed in the wind? That cant be good lol, brittle material getting wiggled, thats how you break stuff off.
The whole hitch is suppose to be steel. Shouldn't break off, bend maybe but breaking off is crazy. You cant cut corners on the foundation of a vehicle but it seems Tesla did
A steel frame breaks off from that kind of drop is bad design. I understand the cybertruck weighs a ton but it then should be able to take additional strain over standard vehicles. Frame may be too small. Regardless an issue.
@@diydad5067 A five-foot vertical drop of the hitch onto a concrete curb is not something Cybertruck owners will have to worry about. Anyone who knows pickup trucks, their owners, and how they use their trucks, gets it. Where have you been? Oh, that's right, Watching Whistlin' Diesel destruction videos. I'm gonna guess you're not a real truck guy.
@@ZipZoomZip If you mean Truck Guy = Moron, then you might be the best “Truck guy.” No one in their right mind pick Cyber truck with brittle frame compared to tried and true carbon steel. I bet you did not even see the video since your head is so far up in Elon’s behind.
When ordering a new sprinter, there is an option to add a 280A alternator and the price was only a couple hundred bucks. What's the difference? Is the one you installed OEM or after market?
After market, i bought it from the dealer lot so i didn’t have the option to buy the factory one Also i set it up like an ambulance , separate 12 volt system
@@vinnyandrocky this aftermarket alternator is geared three to one that means it starts putting power out at idle. I’m not sure that it’s in the same location with the factory alternator is it has a separate belt separate pulley the alternator itself I think it’s about $900 the other $900 are for the custom police mounting kit and so on and so forth and it creates a separate electrical system with its own battery that is not connected to the car itself and the second alternator has 280 A all by itself.
@@ZILAwelds I just placed an order for the van without the 2nd alternator but I noticed there is an option for 2nd alternator. They show a picture of the 2nd 280A alternator but I don't think they will include all the hook up wires. There is a wait time of 5 months so I can still make changes if I want to add the factory install 2nd alternator.
@@ZILAwelds I just found out the 280A alternator option is not a second alternator, it is just an upgrade from the 250A standard alternator. No wonder it was so cheap.😂
I see a commenter below said use JB weld. DO NOT USE JB WELD. That stuff is for amateurs and does not last. If you want a proper repair do it like this guy!
I have the same welder and you are just missing the c-clip that holds the drive wheel in place. You can see the groove that the c-clip slides into at 1:29.
While they might not want to spend too much money handling such a scenario, a few questions are raised: 1. What would have happened to a conventional truck? Yes the steel would bend, but would it bend to such a degree that it would total the car? 2. Could some low-cost changes allow the CT to handle such a scenario? Maybe a few adjustments to ensure there are sacrificial elements taking the force first? It seems noteworthy that the hitch seemed to be intact while the frame was compromised. Ideally you would want this reversed.
If a “truck” can’t handle people doing truck stuff then it’s not a truck. Now throw an old square body Chevy 4x4 against the Tesla cyber truck in the same test that broke the “hitch” and watch it blow the doors off that Tesla. The Tesla isn’t a real truck. There is no modern manufacture that produces a traditional truck anymore. If you want a traditional truck, then you have to go with something made in the 1980s and older.
And hitches see shock loads....thats why steel frames are better. They tend to give and take shock loads far better than any cast metal...especially aluminum!
For some reference, it got hit with 7000lbs of shock force from underneath the hitch. That is about 7 times its rated tongue weight capacity of 1,100lbs (from above). For reference, the gross weight of a trailer that would apply 7000lbs of tongue weight to the top of the hitch would be a 70,000lb trailer, when loaded correctly, not all that far off from a fully loaded semi truck). What is the big surprise here? Is it because it's the cybertruck that people have absolutely insane expectations? It seems like people will use any excuse possible to make fun of it, even if it's something as meaningless and ludicrous as this. I love WD but this is a huge disservice.
7000 pounds is the magic number because that’s what the truck weighs, more with people. That’s half what my 25 foot class a rv weighs while loaded to the max
V-Knurled drive roll is what you need to feed stainless wire. Same drive roll you use with flux cord wire. The drive roll used with solid Mig wire will crush the wire and it won’t feed through your gun properly you’ll hear it snap. That’s just from my experience and imo, correct me if I’m wrong and/or if you got more info on different SS wires and such. Thanks.
I caught the exact same thing. Hit it 1st. Still the jerk destroying the rear frame is NO good. I mean I hit kinetic rope pulls FAR harder than that repeatedly. Never had a frame just disintegrate. It's a problem for anyone intending to really USE the cybertruck as a truck. And the towing capacity tells me that alot of.people are going to be pushing it😂
If you do that to a regular truck it will break period. They are rated for 1000 lbs downforce tongue weight. They will typically fail around 4x-5x the limit. This truck pulls 30,000lbs sleds just the same as a regular truck. The hitch of any truck is not made for 7000 lbs upwards SHEER not to mention the amplified weight of a drop with speed exceeding 20,000 lbs sheer upwards. The only hope a truck would have not to break would be if it’s a really light truck, but the ford wasn’t rioted, or jumped as far or fast or dropped on hitch. After the C4 the ford was not driven again probably due to a major electrical issue
From what you have said, welding to repair a "mega casting" is probably not a viable procedure, I guess. You certainly can't re heat treat an entire vehicle.
WD can be a meat head...over the top..but The vertical drop onto the trailer hitch, followed by the jerky towing, and breakage, are very realistic. If you like off road fun, but also use your truck, a trailer hitch is a necessary evil. I sometimes remove mine, but not always. Leaving a drop where I know it will hit, I will NOT be gentle- some forward speed is needed to prevent getting stuck when the hitch unloads the rear tires. I have slightly bent my frame doing this. Ductile steel is forgiving. Watching the WD video, I also thought that the vertical smack was the start of the problem. After it was broken, I was surprised at how fragile 8t looked. Towing that pulling sled? Repeat "30,000 lb!!" all you want...that was actually very gentle and controlled. Not much of a test. When that thin casting has had 4 or 5 northeast winters with salted roads, it will be completely untrustworthy- its shape looked like it would hold brine well. Maybe other mechanical or electrical problems will preclude these ever towing after many winters. Brittle materials do not belong between a tow vehicle and trailer. Ductility and an excess of material are needed- the instantaneous loads are way too unpredictable, but are certain to happen sooner or later...a pothole unseen while towing on a rainy night... ....or how about when a steel trailer hitch on a real truck is backed into the cybertruck in the grocery parking lot, cracking it...unseen..while you are inside squeezing melons or something? The same hit would not matter, if it were steel.
