Thank you!

It was a lot easier to do on a new door, though that part is always trickier for me than the hole saws: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TuWXl4rb4bA.html.

If I know I'm going to be working in one place, the green foam pad is perfect. Otherwise, I have the kind you can put on and walk around in, but they get uncormfortable

@@toolsandrepairs Gotcha. Thx

Thanks, it's a sponge headband to keep the sweat out of my eyes

@@toolsandrepairs Oh good, Thats what I was hoping it was. I need one of those. :D

Try to fasten the brackets into wood if possible. If you're set on using these, make sure you tighten the screw very tight and perform a test to make sure the bracket is sturdy. You have to tighten the screw more than you think to make the anchor expand so it will be strong.

@@toolsandrepairs Thanks for the reply. I’m think of going down another route with those fixings that screw into the wall or if there is a big enough cavity behind the plaster board, try the metal anchors that splay out when tightened.

You don't really have to start at the drill setting but it helps keep the bit from skipping around, which can happen if you start on the hammer setting. Set it to hammer once you drilled just enough to keep the bit in one place.

Hi, what were you thinking? My email is homerepairsvideos@gmail.com if you want to talk about a potential collaboration.

@@toolsandrepairs ok,I will contact with you by email

@@toolsandrepairs Hello, have you received my email?

Glad it helped!

There are some things to lower the risk such as using a stud finder with electric sensor. There may be a metal plate on the stud in front of a wire on newer homes or a ceramic tube through the stud in older homes, either way don't drill further if you hit anything but wood. Ideally they'd make the lag bolts short enough not to hit the center of the stud and use more bolts but I've never seen short bolts so you always have some risk of hitting a wire or pipe.

This particular wall was just a thin skim coat over concrete. Drywall over block with furring strips (and a space between concrete and whatever you're hanging) would require other strategies like in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xZF4I46dqmQ.html

I just did that today, was a bit skeptical it would weaken over time. Have you ever had an issue with them? Everyone always say only to use studs.

@riveraedmond7301 studs are useful if your tv is very large, over 50lbs, and you plan on extending it from the wall for any reason. Other than that, four to six toggles work fine. Also, if you have a mount that has just 2 points of connection (linear, top, and bottom) to the foundation, I would use a stud. Otherwise, I would use toggle bolts. I like to use washers between the bolt and the mount. I'm not a professional and am not giving you verifiable structural advice. I'm just telling you what has and does work for me.

@@SoSaysYou Thank you. My Tv is 75 inches and I use 6 contact points into the dry wall with anchors and the bolts. Mine is a swivel but due to the increased pressure on the wall I don’t even extend it out.

The short answer is always longer than you think at first. Actually assembling the lock and strike plate of course only take a few minutes. But for all the measuring, sawing, chiseling and routing to take quicker than a few hours, you will need to be more than just handy with tools; this is not a beginner's carpentry job. The hole-sawing doesn't take too long. But the first time I did this I was shocked at how long the routing for the strike plates took but it's even longer just using chisels.

The putty is there to help stop leaks from under the faucet and though the plastic will stick to the putty it is not a glue. It will take some force but it should come off, probably by using a wrench on the tool as seen in the video.

@@toolsandrepairs i ended up stripping this tool and had to buy a bisen wrench which worked really well!

Happy to help!

😂😂😂

The anchor will be weaker if the toggles aren't pushing toward the back of the wall. I'd had them pull right out not realizing the toggle didn't properly pop in place.

It's really only strong when it pops in place behind the wall. If you just screw it, it may not hold as much weight before failing. It's hard to grasp without seeing the other side of the wall.

When I had to really torque the smaller orange one, I felt like I almost broke it as it started to twist. At least this Ridgid one is a much more substantial thicker plastic that could handle a lot more torque.

which one?

@@airgreek The one I have is orange and more rounded than the red tool he is using. I own and rent condos and have to change tap's from time to time and this tool has made my life so much more easier. It was a job I hated.

Searching for "quick connect" drain fittings shows a few brands. If you can't find a replacement part you may just have to replace them with more standard drain pipes

It should hold over a hundred pounds as long as you have at least 1 inch embedded into the brick and use 3 or 4 properly installed screws that don't spin, aren't stripped, and are tightly driven into the correct sized hole (3/16" for 1/4|" screws). For a large TV and anything other than a flat mount I would use a mount with plenty of slots to add more than 4 screws for extra strength.

It can make a big difference depending on how much air is trapped, and it should definitely save on the oil bill.

I use a power driver until the last 2 or so %. As long as you are driving straight, it should be fine. The main issue is the very last part where it tightens but has no give so if you over-tighten you will strip the hole. You can use a ratchet wrench or even a screw driver the whole time, it just takes a while.

@@toolsandrepairs what is a power driver? Something different that a regular drill and a hammer drill?

I use the same Tapcon screws in brick for TV mounting or anything else like I do in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rRpi1usP7_c.html, (edit: the same 1/4" screws). You can also use the plastic anchors but for the lag bolt sleeves that's a lot of drilling

It needs to be a 1/2" hole for the toggle to go through. The plastic part is just holding the toggle tight against the wall and centering the bolt.

@@toolsandrepairs only video that was actually useful! Much respect and appreciation for ur time making the video and responding! Thank you so much

It might be possible but maybe look at the filters specifically designed for "under sink," which may be easier to hook up the flexible connections and also easier to change the filter.

From their website it looks like 300 lbs per upright for this type of system, assuming it is installed properly of course www.rubbermaid.com/home-organization/closet-systems/adjustable-closet-systems/expandable-closet-kit/SAP_2060344.html

@@toolsandrepairs awesome. Thank you for the info and link. Great video btw.

Thank you!

The drill bit needs to be smaller than the screw threads. The package will tell you the size for the screw: 3/16" bit for the 1/4" screws for example.