That’s exactly what I warned about. It happens… Only way is to carefully cut the cap off with a hack saw or dremel near the body and slide off the “cut” pice that covers the anti reverse bearing then unscrew with Chanel locks. The anti reverse bearings is preventing it from removal. At this point if you don’t feel comfortable a VS service shop will be the best bet.
Yo great video as always. Looked like fun catching the snapper blues. Yo you crack me up boohoo the blue fish got my fish lab lure. Sounds like me. But I love to hook up with blues. There bad ass. Keep up the good work
I can’t remember but It was either in the accessories bag or they were hanging out of the key slot in the actual bracket. Pretty sure they were in the bag with screws/ etc
Nice video. Pertinent and concise information delivered in a pleasant laid baçk manner. You had mentioned that water had entered into your system through “the loader controls?”, I think you said. I think I may have a similar problem on my 1530. How about creating one of your fine videos addressing, How water gets into hydraulic systems, and ways to stop having to spend hundreds replacing the hydraulic fluid, by finding and fixing the water infiltration problem. (Kind of a long title, but it gets to what I’d like to see. Thanks in advance, I have every confidence that you’ll give it a shot! I can also understand the frustrations that could be involved, and that for the price of a couple rounds of filters and fluid a very nice tarp or the start of a small shed could be obtained. (maybe why you skimmed over the problem in the first place. Lol)
Thank you for watching! Not at all. VS factory service actually recommends coating it. Reel is butter smooth even in cold weather and hasn’t missed a beat.
im getting ready to tune and delete my 18 l5p but my question is do you leave the emissions stuff on and tune it... then take the emissions stuff after tuning?
Your guess is as good as mine but it was on there from the factory and I’m sure it serves the most important purpose on the whole engine. Forget to reinstall and it grenades, sets itself on fire but cancels your insurance policy before it does.
I have the same tractor but my bucket and 3 point bounce as it’s coming up. Fluid is full and filter is new. Is there a screen somewhere. Mines a 04 tc30 4x4
As far as I’m aware there are no other filters. Is it surging or just jumpy? If it’s just jumpy you can havE an issue in your flow control valve or just touchy controls and need to finesse it. If it’s surging there may be air/ cavitation in the fluid. What fluid/ filter are you using? That could possibly cause cavitation/ starvation and flow issues.
Mine is a little set screw located on the hydraulic block where the bucket control is. I don’t know exactly where it is on yours but that should be a good place to look.
I bought a TC30 withought a manual. Sorry if I missed this but how many gallons does it take to fill in the rear, so not including the hubs? Also, what's the difference between the multi g and the MAT 3540 in the pic at 18:55? Thanks, this vid has helped a lot!
The TC30 is a great little machine!! According to my local NH dealer New Holland discontinued the Multi G oil and only produce the new formula which is now recommended by New Holland. As for oil capacity for the non-hydrostatic (Grear and Clutch) it takes around 8.5 gallons with a filter change. Good luck with your machine!!
@@xlandscaperExcellent, thanks again! Only got about 700 hours on it and it runs like a top, just want to keep it that way. Did you upgrade your loader or is that what came on it? I have the 7308 and wondered about those clamp on forks but hear horror stories about them bending the bucket. as Curious if you made that change intentionally or was just what you had. Any issues with those forks?
@@MrJsiemers Great!! Just keep up with the maintenance and don’t try to do more than the machine can. I used to use my machine for commercial landscaping jobs and I ran it pretty hard. I definitely could have done with a 50-60hp machine but the smaller/ lighter tractor got into backyards and tighter areas where the bigger ones couldn’t touch. Now she lives a pretty easy life doing an occasional job here n there n lite work around the house. I purchased the upgraded Rhino loader when I bought the machine. It had a little more lifting capacity and was a little more but has served me well. As for the forks I have a 1/2”x 3” solid steel cutting edge I welded on. If my bucket were to ever bend the tractor would probably break in 1/2 before that happened. I do have my eye out for a set of quick attach forks though and will jump on them if a local deal were to come along.
So you drained the front drive and hubs, then filled the front drive and hubs. I thought they use the same pump? If they use the same pump could you do all the filling in the rear instead? Just got one, and ready to change fluids.
Hi, thank you nice video. unfortunately I have mounted the left side cover incorrectly in the final phase of reassembly and it's all stuck, I can no longer open it, I even bent a key, nothing, all stuck, do you have any advice to overcome this nightmare? I am in complete despair Regards Caesar
Man that’s unfortunate. They only way to get the side plate off is to cut it off. Take a hacksaw blade or dremel cut off wheel and slowly cut through the side cover being careful not to cut into the shaft. Once that’s fully cut off you can unscrew it bc the part you cut off has the anti reverse bearing. It’s definitely not for the faint of heart but it can be done. If you aren’t comfortable definitely send it in. Also google search it, there’s a few forums that explain it with pictures. Good luck man.
If you do not know which way to tighten and loosen a filter I’m sorry but I think you should take your machine to a professional. I don’t think any amount of RU-vid tutorials may help you.
