Depending on how it's misaligned, the vehicle may not go into park and roll when the column shift indicates 'park' or the interlocks may not work properly so that you can start the vehicle in drive but not in neutral, etc.
I have a teslong usb borescope camera that would let me see it however, the metal from your gear has dropped into the engine and probably run through the bearings. If this gear is completely round, then it didn't have lubrication and the rest of the sliding stuff in your engine are similarly pooched. These motors are plentiful and pretty cheap. It's not worth overhauling. You should be able to find a used 4.3L for a few hundred bucks. Swap the engine. The trick would've been noticing that the oil pump was already failing/weak. Best of luck with it. www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Teslong-Borescope-Inspection-Waterproof/dp/B0C1GFBTDC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa
Dude this has nothing to do with putting transmission into gear! Nor does aligning it my truck goes info reverse for 3 seconds then stops jacked up i just put in a used transmission new filter new fluid was told the transmission shifted good when tested.. however i put my original switch on because it didn't come with one.. so you're saying that this petty lil switch tell the computer to tell the shift solenoid to go into gear.. truck starts even if you don't have this so that's a lie... Someone please explain because if that's the case why would you have to alight that is not a sensor
Dude, your non-working "used but good" transmission that isn't working probably has less of a problem with my accurate comments than the promises made to you by the seller of your replacement trans. You can call me a liar all day long, but that's not going to fix your transmission, or make any of what I said inaccurate.
You got hosed on your "good" 60E. I've been building them for years and the pressure switch manifold tells the TCM what gear its in, so it can control shifting.
Drop the engine cradle a little by loosening them. The cradle has 6 bolts attaching the cradle to the frame. Also a coolant line has to also be removed right above the bell housing top eight bolt
I just fixed mine, epoxy glue was stuck between the striker and the front plate. That forced the striker away from front plate and then it hits 2 or more staples. The front plate can be removed by taking out 2 pins, look for something wrong there. In my case glue. Sometime broken bits of staples can jam in there.
Luckily I didnt have any issues with the 02 sensor. However I had to remove the cowling and cabin air filer assembly. Reasoning being the assembly by not being removed, makes it tight in rear of the engine. The heater manifold connected to the thermostat assembly is in the way of the bell housing bolt. Makes it messy with the coolant leaking. It turns out it is best to drain the coolant. Also a radiator tube with a 15mm bolted on the edge of the cylinder head needed to be loosened and a bolt towards the front above the alternator.
I suspect my distributor gear is not turning freely. Horrible low speed hesitation and a loud sound (like a gear being stripped) when I floor it. Do you think this is a symptom of a failing distributor?
My Arrow stapler has worked flawlessly for 30 years untill I bought a pack of Chinese staples, and have had nothing but jams. I strongly suspect you are using Chinese made staples that have bad tolerances and lousy glue holding the staples together. Try buying Arrow staples.
Just replaced My neutral safety switch because park and neutral would not light up when engaged. I still have the same problem. All started after having pump assembly replaced on transmission. Any ideas. Drive fine. Indicator lags but R lights and D 321 light. No park or neutral dash indicator lights.
theres is a coolant petcock on this radiator.... it can be found on the lower right hand side of the radiator, on the tank of the radiator facing passenger side.
Holy cow! The oil coating that thing looks like it came from the La Brea tar pits! Do you realize that the camshaft is equally as worn? I wouldn't give that engine long to live.
The flex plate gear was partially separated from the plate, but that wasn't the worst of it. It had a rod knock. Someone had replaced the engine with an earlier 2007 model, unknown mileage. It was a bit of a fiasco because the failure was likely caused by a partially blocked oil pickup due to pieces of a broken cam chain tensioner partially blocking it. if the car was driven by someone who kept the rpms under 3500, it probably would've been okay, but the owner like to put the hammer down at stoplights and a couple of big end rod bearings failed. I replaced the rod bearings and then discovered that the timing chain was the earlier design (with the 2009 parts in hand). Choice was: get the older model cam chains for $150 or replace the phasers ($500+) so the owner elected to get the earlier cam chains. He didn't drive it far with the bad bearings, so it didn't have time to oval the rods and the new bearings worked fine. I still have the NIB 2009 cam chain set that I'd like to get rid of.
The ECU controls the various transmission solenoids and pressure application. If it's getting mixed or incorrect signals, it's difficult to say what the ECU will do with transmission control. Depending on the model year, you may get a "Check Engine" light or you might get a transmission-error message on a functional display. I.e. the alignment is important, but I don't know what the ECU and transmission will do, and I'm not sure that you're going to be able to find a reliable answer to the question because the behaviour would vary with the degree of misalignment. If it was so bad that the switch said the trans was in Park when it was actually in Reverse, I imagine that wouldn't be too healthy for the trans.
Lies I just put in a used 4l60e transfered my original switch didn't align it because I didn't know that they have to be aligned it only bolts on one way and the gear arm only goes one way back and fourth... My truck is jacked up in the rear and when I put it in reverse it last 3 seconds tires spin then stop .. new fluid new filter.. I was told that these switches nothing to do with how the transmission actually goes into gear.. but clearly it must ?? So my faulty or unaligned shifter switch could be the cause why my transmission won't go into gear because it's not getting ground or bad connection?? Weird how this lil peace plays a huge delicate roll.
I bought this stapler because I was told at Lowes that it was a compatible with T50 6mm staples. It came with no instructions, and as far as I can tell, those staples are about half the size that are needed.
@@alafrosty Apparently I had the wrong type of T50s. I guess I confused the Lowes guy when I showed him the stapler and showed him the staples, and asked if they were compatible.
I wrecked my 2011 STS 3.6 LLT so I went bought a 2008 CTS LY7 beautiful car with a blown engine...I was just gonna swap out the motor and transmission from the STS to the CTS.Will that work?
The LY7 engines are ridiculously expensive, so using the LLT in the 2008 makes a ton of sense. Anything can be swapped, the question is do you have the tools and competence to make it happen? If the transmissions are the same, then the odds are good that you'll be able to take everything from the STS engine bay and slap it into the CTS. And if the transmissions aren't the same, then you can migrate the transmission (and diff?) from the STS to the CTS as well. The various modules around the car will complain about a VIN mismatch. The CTS was available with the LLT, so worst-case scenario, you get a PCM from an LLT CTS and run that with the original CTS transmission. Or send off the PCM for a segment swap. I'm pretty sure that the exhaust manifolds and engine mounts from the CTS will bolt right up to the LLT. You may be able to find someone who's done this already on the Cadillac Forums group. There are some pretty great people there. www.cadillacforums.com/
@@alafrosty everyone is saying that I would have to change everything from the heads on up to make it work. They say my CTS has port injection and the STS has direct injection
@@jasonmassey7883 I see your post. Yes, I wouldn't bother trying to make the LY7 into an LLT. Just disconnect the whole LY7 from the transmission, exhaust, fuel, cooling and engine mounts and pull it and the harness out. Then set about dropping the LLT into place with the LLT harness and PCM. You'll need to update the PCM VIN to your vehicles, but it can be done. I now see that you can't get the auction LLT running. Start there. If you have trouble getting that LLT engine running, you're in for a world of hurt trying to swap the non-running LLT into the STS. www.cadillacforums.com/threads/engine-swap.1109224/
@@alafrosty it's the CTS LY7 that I purchased from the auction...the STS was the LLT...I've decided I'm going to just buy a used LY7 for 1400 and put it in the CTS cause I know nothing about that cars history as for why it's not starting
@@jasonmassey7883 Be careful with the model year of LY7 that you purchase. Last Thursday, I discovered that this 2009 Caddy has a 2007 LY7 and the timing chains and phasers are NOT the same! I.e. You will need a 2008+ LY7, or a 2007 LY7 with the second-design cam chains (difficult to check when buying a used motor). Check the year code etched onto the side of the block to the rear of the alternator before spending your money. You might wish to consider rebuilding your blown LY7. It's going to cost around the same amount of money, but you'll have a fresh motor.
I bought a new genuine T50 today and it jammed. And, kept on jamming. It should be in a garage band. 50 million sold to suckers. Thanks for the (too-late) crappy tool review.
Damn, I'm not the only one! I've struggled with my Arrow T50 for years. I lubricated it, i bought different staples, and usually gets jammed. Yesterday I just needed to staple some wire to my wall in the garage. Freaking thing got jammed. Had to take it apart. 30 minutes later got it fixed and put my 5 staples in. A 30 second job took me 35 minutes! Argh! What's a good brand and model to buy?
I bought a DeWalt. It has jammed exactly *once* since I bought it (which was right after I returned the #(*$& one in this video) and honestly, I was really surprised when it did jam because it was reliable before that! Worked flawlessly since. TBH, I have another Arrow stapler from about 25 years ago that is absolutely reliable, but the pins fell out of it and got lost. I had been so happy with it that I immediately knew I needed another Arrow. Boy, was I ever wrong about that! I bought a DeWalt replacement and I've been happy with it. ["not a sponsor"]
Milwaukee makes a nice one too (better than the yellow one imo because of a few extra features, but either are fine I'm sure. (Mine never jammed that I can recall, unlike the 20 or 30yo one my dad had from Arrow...) That said, I just picked up the arrow pneumatic one and it is REALLY nice. Maybe it's because it has a real power source, but it doesn't seem to have any issues at all...
I have owned a dozen or so T50 staplers in my life. I do not ever remember using a full row of staples without the staple gun jamming or giving out. They are not trustworthy at all.
Not made to use on drywall. And if it gives you problems under normal use, don’t allow the nose to hop. That’s what causes jams and half driven staples. Like using a hammer there’s a technique to learn. Hope this helps, it’s not the current staplers fault, just takes using one a little bit. Practice on a 2x4 if you have the time.
The 25 y.o. Arrow that I tried to replace with this worked perfectly. I replaced this junk it with a DeWalt and it works perfectly. I don't think I changed my stapling technique. I think the tool is junk.
@@camgreer I should do a follow-up with my DeWalt. Sometimes places take returns and then don't visibly see anything wrong with the return, so they put it back on the shelf, even though it's broken.
@@alafrosty Yeah, I emailed DeFault and they told me to take it back with receipt (yeah right, I kept the receipt!) to HD, or I could ship it to them. Not worth the shipping costs, so I'll just have to write this off as a learning experience. Next one I buy, I'm gonna take it outta the package and shoot about 20 staples in an oak 1x6 over in the lumber department to make sure it works.
I have the red electric version of that, and it is amazing, however it is at the very least s18 years old, I kick the shit out of it, and no problems,, that sucks
I have a blue one from about 25 years ago that I similarly kicked the snot out of and it has been just about perfect! The pins fell out of it and got lost, so I figured I'd buy another one. Oops. Quality has gone to the dogs! This is another story like Boeing where a once-great company with engineering prowess seems to have been taken-over by bean-counters who don't give a #$(*& about the quality of their goods or what harm they're doing in the marketplace.
I have my dad’s that is thirty or more years old and a bit rusty and it works great. My own is around fifteen years old and it works like it should. One bad stapler doesn’t mean squat. An honest review would mention that. Every manufacturer can put out a bad one every once in a while. Take it back Home Depot or call Arrow. Or better yet buy a cheap Chinese made stapler that doesn’t last and quite your complaining.
This was actually the second one! I figured the first one was a bum unit and replaced it - second one was just as terrible. I have a 25 year old blue arrow T50 that was great, too, which is why I bough this junker. I bought a DeWalt replacement and it's been great since.
Thanks for the feedback. Great question. The switch is good. In the description, I wrote "If you have continuity as shown here, then your switch is good."
