Really very awesome I tried it today and the AC started working like before There was no wind coming from the front But now she is doing good work, A Trixie is very useful Thank you very much you shared a very useful video ❤
Depends on the center caps i guess. I'm still loving these new center caps I went with, no more rattle, and they're OEM Lexus. Check it out in my other video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rvD_XA5hegg.html
@NKPGarage This video helped me! My AC was blowing hot on the passenger side then I turned on the heater both sides were hot. I was in a panic then came to RU-vid. Thank you ❤ 3 of 4 vents are blowing cold.
The 2017 is a quieter interior. But ride comfort is about the same overall. I can tell that AHC functions more smoothly between transitions on the 2017 vs the 2009. But if you don’t sit in them back to back it would be hard to notice. The bigger brakes are definitely a big improvement on the 2017. I prefer the back seats and where the rear AC controls are on the 2009. The kids do too. The 2019 has the 8spd transmission versus the previous 6spd. I haven’t noticed any real world benefit of the 8spd. I actually prefer the way the 6spd drove on the 2009. The 8spd feels sluggish until you get to highway speeds. And the 8spd in the 2017 seems to get worse gas mileage than the 2009 did. I really miss the touchscreen on the 2009. I really don’t like the joystick control on the 2017. That’s probably the main things I’ve noticed so far.
@@mason7300 Unfortunately was not able to get any dyno scheduled in time. So the app was the closest I could get. I tried several apps and this one seemed to be the most consistent. I'm not looking for actual HP/TQ numbers, but mainly looking for the difference before and after. Once I get the supercharger on it'll definitely head to a real AWD dynojet.
Im curious what is happening in the stock tuning that there is such a large gain to be had <4000 rpm but then virtually nothing above that. Makes it seem like something very intentional by Toyota.
I would guess that some of it is timing, some of it is leaner AFR, and some of it is the timing of when the variable valve timing kicks in. I ordered a VF tuner for myself and will be using it next time around so that I can see exactly what is changing in the tune.
@@NKPGarage I have VFTuner and I don’t believe you can open the tunes. I’ll check again but I believe the tuner can lock them. I’ll check my Yotawerks GX time when I get a chance But I understand how they make power. Variable valve timing on these truck is always functioning though. It’s not like VTEC where it activates at a certain RPM. The timing is adjusting at all rpms. Additionally, the PCM is continuously looking for peak ignition timing on the fly so im not sure there is a ton to pick up there either. What I dont understand is why Toyota left so much on the table <4000 rpm but not above. I wonder if it’s simply the throttle not being fully open. My GX460 would not open its throttle all the way up on the stock tune but I have not datalogged my LX yet I really wish HPTuners would open up support for the 2016+ Land Cruisers because it’s so much better than VFTuner
ITS A GREAT UNIT the only inconvenience I have is the drop down screen as it block my review mirror, specially when I am driving. Everything else is great specially the car play featureless.
There are a couple different ways to tune more modern Toyota/Lexus ECUs. HP Tuners and VFTuner are the two main ones used, depending on what year and model your Toyota/Lexus is.
It’s not well documented online. But the VF Tuner supports all years of the LX570. The HPTuner is more for the Tundra guys and doesn’t support the LX570.
Thanks for the video. It helped a lot. I had the warning light a few times but I just cycled the car on and off like you said and it cleared up. It rides way better now. Super glad I finally did this
That’s awesome! What year is your LX? And how many miles when you did the work? I’m always curious to hear how long these AHC globes are lasting before needing replacement.
@@NKPGarage hey- I have a 2009 193k miles. I have 34s and front sensor lift and some other fun goodies. I did a fluid flush when I got it at 165. After some decent towing and a considerable amount of off roading, the suspension degraded till it was time today. One globe was obviously bad. My next big to dos are the valley plate leak and valve cover leak. I hope it’s not the cam tower. Both are slow leaks so I’ll get to it when I get to it. I’ll probably also do some preventative stuff while I’m in there as she’s got some age on her now. I love your content and was stoked you got another lx. Keep making vids for us please!
@Skyvisiontube sounds like you are putting that LX to good use! How do you like the ride with the sensor lift versus stock height? I tried the sensor lift on my previous 2009 and it looked nice, but I didn’t like the more firm ride so I set it back to stock height. I’m going to do the valley plate on my 2017 LX when I do the TRd supercharged install. Will be checking route the valve covers too while I’m in there to see if there’s any reason to R&R them.
Yup!! That is for "boost" if you have a turbo charged engine. It shows manifold pressure (PSI). So if you have a supercharged engine or a turbo charged engine it will show the PSI (boost pressure) while operating.
I have 2013 Landcruiser giving a “00” code but there is an issue with the ac blowing cold only on the driver side. The passenger and rear climate has warm air. Any ideas?
Try to reset it using the reset procedure in the video. Then drive around for 10-20 minutes with the AC on. And change the AC modes to blow air out of various vents while driving around. Then come back and check the codes to see if any new codes are stored.
More 80 updates soon hopefully 🙂 For the 80 series, or really any daily driver or a vehicle you take roadtrips in, where you want to keep track of health statistics, gauges, MPG, and other stats, the app I like is called "DashCommand". For troubleshooting and general diagnostics my go to app for easy diagnostics with the bluetooth OBD2 adapter and my cellphone is "OBDLink"
Cobalt builds such a great boat. I sold my 246 last year that I pulled behind a 2008 and 2016 LC. It was optioned with the Volvo 496 and scaled around 5500-6000 lbs depending on fuel/gear. The 200s did admirably, but towing was always stressful if interstates or mountain passes were involved. With that said, the maneuverability of the 200 couldn't be beat at launches with tight trailer parking. Nice video, and kudos for towing that big beast around!
Good video thanks and the rsca off is for off-roading so if you put it on its side they don’t go off because if they deploy it pretty much totals any car, they can go off with a side impact like sliding into a tree or ditch etc it. The traction control off is more for off-road situations
I think the words Land Cruiser should be removed. I never saw a Land Cruiser. The word on the street is the LX and the LC lights are similar but different in size and can’t be swapped over. I like the new upgrade to the new lights though!
You’re right. They’re similar but can’t be swapped. But even if you are in a Land Cruiser 200 series this gives a good visual hopefully of how the assembly goes together and assembles. Thanks for the support and watching!!
My son and I worked on this project yesterday as a fathers day project. This video was very helpful, but the video should be clear it is what you should expect for an FJ80 that has had the radiator replaced before. It was not representative of one, like our 1997 one, that was pretty much untouched. There was no mention of bolts sticking, which we experienced from the very first step, trying to remove the belly pan. Lots of penetrating oil and busted knuckles ensued. But the worst part of the process for us was removing the fan. Wasn't too difficult to get the 4 bolts off of the fan, using a closed end wrench and rubber mallet, but the fan was literally fused to the pully. It was a major major effort to get them to separate. And once they were separated, the video made no mention of releasing the tension on the belts. That was the biggest omission of the video. I should have known better. Once the 4 bolts and the fan was off, the tension of the belts on the pully caused the pully to go askew, as you would expect. So getting the fan back on was impossible like that. After further research, sounds like the best solution is to do the water pump at the same time, which requires removing the belts and putting on new studs, which come with the water pump. Took us 3 hours to get the old radiator out because of all of the roadblocks. We spent another hour or so before we just bailed as it was getting late, and getting frustrated trying to get that fan back on the 4 bolts with the pully askew. So, about 4 1/2 hours working on it, but no fan or fan shroud at the moment installed. Will pick it back up tomorrow once the new water pump and studs arrive.
Thanx again for your always informative and clear as day explanations. Always enjoy watching your video's. Very greatfull to learn something new after every video🙏
If you buy a new cap it should come with the o-ring. I don’t now the part number for just the o-ring by itself. The link to the new cap is in the video description
I used to set mine to 10 as well. But honestly now a days I prefer to keep things close to stick so I set any 1FZ motor I have had lately to factory setting.
@airselectricalcontractors842 stock timing setting is safer and less risk of detonation or engine damage. And I did not notice much improvement in power or fuel economy.
Thanks for sharing. I tried to convince my wife to get a LX600 or LX 570....She said no... So I will probably look to pick up a 2021 LX570 next year....but with a TRX and JL 392....trying to "add a LX570 this year would upset the "boss". Quick question did you look at any replacement head unit options? I know for my 2008 Sequoia, they have a whole head unit replacement...
Ya. I looked at a lot of various options. On my old 2009 Lx570 I did one of the large Tesla style screens and it was great at the time many years ago. But these days the majority of what I want is through CarPlay or android auto so this is the easiest route to avoid messing with any of the OEM electronics. This has worked out really well for us. Sounds like you’ve got a nice collection going! You’ll enjoy the LX hopefully
you got it! The transmission diagnostic was very helpful for me on my H1. I was seeing various solenoid errors, replaced the solenoids and still saw errors. My problem ended up being the TCM itself, new TCM ordered and programed and that fixed all my shifting issues.
Nice results. Apparently Cobalt boats have notoriously hard gelcoat. There is even a thing where Cobalt’s get oxidation but the gelcoat is still shiny.
It's not just Cobalt. Every boat we have ever owned has similar oxidation after time and needs regular maintenance. What I can tell you about the Cobalt though is that it has really good quality gelcoat in comparison the the SeaRays we have owned in the past, not sure how to describe it. The Cobalt gelcoat seems tougher and you can get it back to shiny easier than our previous SeaRay boats.
@@NKPGarageLee at “local boydidgood” describes SeaRay gelcoat as being “soft” and that it compounds like butter. He will take 3M Super Duty to battle the Cobalt gelcoat hardness, then 3M Heavy Cut, finishing with Perfect It EX AC, depending on the oxidation level. I need to get my boat compounded soon.
There is some really good information here. I didn't consider that higher speeds and dropping preasure could add extra load on the pmd. I purchased my h1 during a winter season and drove it from California to texas, doing 75 to 80 while pulling an m1 trailer, amd it ran fine all winter, of course when summer arrived it failed and i had to replace it. I've started to hate the 6.5 and want to replace it with a more reliable engine, maybe a cummins, possibly the 4bt.
It could also be the fuel inline fuel pump not flowing enough at higher loads and causing additional strain on the high pressure pump and PMD. I since sold this H1, but I have the itch for another one. Been doing a lot of research on what other swaps would be simple, reliable, and provide power and torque. I think I've landed on a 8.2L/502 crate motor, the modern version of it with coil packs, modern LS style intake manifold, etc... That's a really realiable motor, has plenty of power and torque, and can easily be bolted to the H1 transmission. It also has no turbo, so there's way less heat to deal with, and keep the plumbing much more simple. If/when I get my hands on another H1 that will be my go to for a motor swap for sure.
