Hi! I got hold of pure pine pitch last weekend and tried to add a teaspoon of pitch to my traditional recipe. Arter fully liquidized, I added all into water and started taffy pulling. It turned out very sticky. Any idea how I can make the wax a bit harder and less sticky?
Thanks so much for this video. Going to try this out for hand sewing horse tack. I've heard there are summer and winter recipes for coad. Maybe I don't need this since my workshop is in a basement that is heated/air conditioned.
I cannot thank you enough for this. What is truly amazing is that these 14th Century garments were constructed using advanced couture techniques that any modern seamstress would approve of and envy. I have a degree in Medieval European History so, I can't say that I am surprised at how brilliant this technique is but, I am absolutely floored at how strong AND beautiful the seam finishes are. It is so sad that we have so few extant examples!
I found this video while I was in the middle of conjecturing this myself in an attempt to make my gores look prettier and it turns out I already did it the way you do! perhaps I've seen something similar before or perhaps it's just that I have several years of hand stitching to my memory to guide me but I'm glad I don't have to redo the seam I started out of impatience before thinking to look it up
If you will check out Bertha Banners book, "Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking", Ch 1, stiches she describes exactly what you are doing here. She calls it seaming.
Serbian word for awl is шило/šilo (read as scheeloh ) and the word for sewing is шити/šiti (read scheetee). In the word used for the tool is the use of the tool... today in industrial manufacture of leather goods in Serbia, people do not know how to use this tool, and so many of workers just don't know how to hand stitch at all... we lost so many good things.
I'm a leatherworker, working by hand with traditional tools... and this is amazing. I was just watching the other day how people made leather back in the day (veg-tan leather ofc) and this made the picture just more complete. Greetings from Serbia!
Thank you! Not making videos is easier than making videos, but your encouragement is greatly appreciated. What would you most like to see more videos about?
Very nice work! This is the Era I'm interested in. Though wool is above my budget right now 😢 I am making myself a kirtle soon, but I am modernizing it by making it in 15 Oz denim. I bet when it breaks in, it's going to be an absolute dream to wear!
Thank you! Having broken in 16oz denim jeans, I can imagine that will be a pretty uncomfortable start but yes, hopefully become soft with wear. I wouldn't say that sort of denim is a natural choice for a medieval dress but would recommend RU-vid videos by Popula Urbanum on cotton in medieval Europe.
I like your way of describing how you work - very clear. I’ll be keeping this video in mind for when I want to try this technique. Can I ask where you buy your woollen fabric and what terms I should look out for to find a lighter weight wool like this?
Great video! I’m very new to hand sewing seams. Right now I’m attempting to make a shift using the “seam and fell” method described in a book I found called “The Medieval Tailor”. It’s a bit like what you described because the seam is worked in tiny stitches from the right side too. Have you tried your technique for longer seams such as side seams or for seams where it’s trickier to have one hand behind like sleeve seams? You might have addressed my questions in other videos - I’ll go and see what else you’ve posted! Also, it’s lovely to hear an Australian accent 😊. I’m in Adelaide, but most of the other RU-vid historical costume channels I have found are in the US and UK.
G'Day Roslyn! I have used this seam for long seams on a cote now, and it is a bit of a headache to bunch the thread, sure. For a sleeve I think I would use a running or backstitch from the inside because, as you say, it's hard to work the seam in something so narrow.
I have a question about the thread; ist there a general(ised) rule about the material it ist made of or a rule about when wool, silk oder linen thread is used or is it like a whatever you have is fine situation and do you know wether they would have been colored in a matching color?
Hello! There are certainly examples of high end garments where top stitch thread like buttonholes were matched, but also for buttonholes that were not matched. Most construction stitching was never seen, so could be a cheaper undyed thread. Certainly when fabric was issued in large households, there is no record of matching thread being issued with it.
Enjoy! Not only is it faster to make and more comfortable to wear, but is actually directly supported by archaeological evidence. Eyelets in this position, to my knowledge, are not found on any extant hose.
Hi Rosequartz, If you don't have an electric drill or know someone who has one you can borrow, the cheapest solution would be to buy a jewelers twist drill (approx. $10-20 purchased online), or a hand cranked woodworking drill (often called an 'eggbeater' drill) as these are available cheaply online in most countries. As for depth of hole, for a 1mm straw needle like the one I used in the video, a hole of about 20-25mm deep works well. To work out exact depth, measure the length of the needle once you've cut off the eye. If for example it is 45mm, then you could make a 20mm deep hole and then have a 25mm blade, or drill a 25mm deep hole and have a 20mm blade, or anything in between. I wouldn't recommend having a blade length shorter than 20mm, or longer than 25mm when using a 1mm needle as the awl blade. I hope that helps!
@@CompanyoftheStaple thank you. yes it helps a lot. i will look those things up. but maybe ill just ask someone to borrow me the drill. anyways, good video.
Hello Lynn! Thanks for your question. These type of hose are sewn from woven wool fabric. If you google 'sew medieval hose' you should find many video and written tutorials. Generally, there are short hose that were typically worn by women, tied below the knee and usually cut on the straight of grain, and longer hose typically worn by men that are cut on the bias and rising, at the distinctive top corner, between mid thigh and hip. For the Bocksten man's hose in particular, all of the links for this find are in the video description. Happy hose making!
I can't believe I used to stitch in re-enforcing material to the tip and then sew eyelets. Putting in the leather lace takes just moments, and can just as quickly be removed if you want to wash the wool but not the leather.
Excellent presentation! Very cleverly done, working out how the main seam was sewn. It has bothered me for ages too. Your method seems well plausible; it's very similar to the felling stitch you used to neaten the raw edge (which is also described from medieval London, as I'm sure you know). Good job and thank you!
