Medieval Sewing - Facing a Neckline 

Great question! When, in the past, I have cut a hole for my head and draped the pattern the wool the weight of the body panels cause the neckline to stretch out. After having this a couple of times and having some success repairing them with sort of drawstring basting thread, I resolved to always face or at least stitch to reinforce the neckline before ever draping the body. Next, I am inconsistent with applying the facing to the wool. Tried freehanding it, pinning, basting, measuring whatever but when I cut, fold and apply the facing I tend to wind up putting too much facing on not enough neckline in places causing a slight gathered pucker and the opposite causing a stretched curling section in other areas. Basically I think I stretch the bias corners of the wool while working the facing on. That's probably just inexperienced ham-hands on my part, but I can't in good conscience suggest that others try it that way, make 10-15 wool garments and hey you'll get the hang of it.. esp when I still don't have the hang of it. So I wanted to try this new tactic of folding around my stitches like a modern tailor would apply a facing and see how it went, and I think it's more reliable for a newbie/intermediate maker. It requires 4 runs of stitching though. The 4th row is not mentioned in despatches but I can weasel justify that it is not seen without dismantling the seam, could have been linen that is now rotted out or some other cowardly intellectual dishonesty... hmm. I aspire to just pinch the facing onto the neckline and sew it down with the casual ease of Mathew Gnagy applying trim, but I aint there yet. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m3O260f_7KY.html

@@CompanyoftheStaple Brillant, thank you for your insights, very informative

Thank you! I have put a link in the notes to your Medieval Sewing Made Easy videos because I think they'll be a great starting point for anyone unsure of the individual stitches and techniques I mention.

@@CompanyoftheStaple Thank you very much

Cheers. I know I skipped out on this step for my first few garments after one look at the book but hopefully if it's clearly shown, people will be more comfortable having a go.

@@CompanyoftheStaple absolutely! I'll be showing our members to get them to do it!

Thanks Kiriel! Glad you liked it.

Thank you! I will have to try. :)

Thank you! Having broken in 16oz denim jeans, I can imagine that will be a pretty uncomfortable start but yes, hopefully become soft with wear. I wouldn't say that sort of denim is a natural choice for a medieval dress but would recommend RU-vid videos by Popula Urbanum on cotton in medieval Europe.

The idea is to make it easier to handle into a precise crease at the desired location. Once it is in position, pressing steams off that water and sets the shape .

Hi sophie! The silk is from E&M Greenfield in Sydney and is a stock item from them. The wool is from The Remnant Warehouse in Sydney and was a passing remnant. I found you really have to be able to drop in there regularly and rummage around for a chance to get suitable wool there. I'll put 'finding good wool in Australia' on the requested videos list.

Hello! There are certainly examples of high end garments where top stitch thread like buttonholes were matched, but also for buttonholes that were not matched. Most construction stitching was never seen, so could be a cheaper undyed thread. Certainly when fabric was issued in large households, there is no record of matching thread being issued with it.