Honestly it would been nice if you could given a tutorial explanation in this operation and what the parts are actually doing for us Dummies 101. Thanks.
How did you size your txv and cap tubes did trane give you this ? How can i get this for any unit or unit im working on different tonnage and acutra tubes i have 25 ton trane with 16 orifices.
This is called ratcheting. It's the noise the scrolls make when they separate during shut down. It is normal for the system not to make this noise but slowly develop it and will not affect the performance or longevity of the equipment. Super common on any scroll compressor regardless of equipment manufacture.
so this is normal, our new install is doing that. No affect on performance or cooling, if it's normal im going to leave it be, rather not touch something that is properly cooling.
There's something about the sound of the old turquois 06s, v/ the newer gray ones...the aluminum pistons just don't have the sound of the old ones did, NOR do they put up with slugging
A Huge THANK YOU! to you sir! I was testing a new micron gauge and one i already had both directly connected to the vacuum pump using a tee. The rise in microns after isolating was driving me insane. Last time i used my old micron gauge it worked fine on an ac system but now it seemed to be acting up. You saved me a lot of further fustration. Again THANK YOU!
I just realized your an ammonia mechanic. I realize there are state licensing requirements but are there paths to learn what I need to know to get there?
Newer scroll compressors have a discharge port check valve just behind the discharge port. This was added because of customer complaints of back wash shutdown noise. A lot of techs don't wrap a wet cloth or heat dampening putty around the ports when they braze in a new compressor and if the check valve receives too much heat it can warp it making it not close properly. It is more important on high SEER units with large condensers that hold a larger refrigerant load. The subcooling level is a percentage of condenser volume that is liquid refrigerant. Larger condenser means more liquid refrigerant in condenser when it shuts off. Copeland specs specify a maximum system refrigerant load to avoid off cycle flood back due to larger refrigerant loads. Unit manufacturers get around this by closing down expansion valve and relying on compressor check valve to trap liquid in condenser during off cycle, preventing low side flood back through evaporator. On these units you will notice the high side pressure does not drop off after unit shuts off (unless it has a leaky check valve). All scrolls have a floating differential pressure plate in the middle of top fixed scroll plate. It drops down during off state to unload compressor so when it starts up again it is not initially pushing against system high side pressure. Copeland says their scroll compressor's don't need a short-cycle timer due to differential pressure plate, but there is another issue with a less than half second power glitch that can cause a scroll to immediately start to orbit backwards. It makes a terrible racket when orbiting backwards. Copeland says this does not damage scroll but it overheats compressors until it finally trips internal protection due to overheating. If you live in an area with a lot of thunderstorms and get a lot of power glitches you still should have a short-cycle timeout timer. The internal protection overtemp/overcurrent breaker has a limited number of trips before it gets damaged, requiring a compressor replacement. I have noticed the turn off 'grunt' sometimes occurs more when it is cooler, like at night, with lower high side pressure. I am guessing lower pressure does not provide the 'slamming' force on check valve to completely seal it. It is a bit ironic because lower temps make it more likely to have flood back.
I think I’m having this issue on a new construction Lennox ML17XC1-048-230A02. It’s a very loud grinding type noise at shutoff. Can you give any more tips to narrow it down to this? I see in the installation instructions to it says to protect the service lines with wet cloths. If that wasn’t done during installation, what can be done to fix it at this point?
I noticed that Slidell was increasing in capacity, but the screen was staying idle directional Vals either bleeding by or a slide out. Glad to be rebuilt.
We had a Carrier system installed 10 months ago. The ac unit has a Copeland scroll compressor. Started making this noise between winter and spring. Installer came out for a service, I was told this is normal and that all units make this noise. My concern is it didn't make noise for 4-5 months. He called Carrier tech support only to get confirmation that it's normal.
@@tdperformance157did you have anyone check it out, I don't plan on calling a tech since it's properly cooling and seeing multiple posts that this is normal behavior for a lot of scroll compressors. Just wish I got a heads up from the install team instead of sourcing to RU-vid for answers lol
No. Not really. My installer has turned out to be pretty sorry. He won’t come out. Says he’s ordered a “blanket” to his the noise. Called the BBB on him now he tells me about this common problem. I’ve been trying to get info all summer. I do feel better about it now after reading all these comments.
@@tdperformance157 haha same, as long as it cooling properly I probably won't touch it but I was thinking about throwing a compressor blanket when fall comes around, I've already had to call out the installer two other times to have other things fixed so we'll see
Great video!!The only problem I see with vac gauge set up is there’s no valve to isolate when refrigerant is introduced and manufacturers state that you shouldn’t expose them to positive pressures and oils. Wish they made core depressor with isolate valve or gate valve.
Must be a Lennox thing. Had the same issue on a similar looking Lennox condenser this week and happened on your video that pointed me in the right direction. Good find on your part 👍🏼👍🏼
Few things to highlight here: 1. You are using flame (from sulfur stick) near to NH3 gas leak, which aggravates fire risks. You know NH3 is flammable right? 2. I don't see you have an NH3 detectors around that area to easily detect leakage. 3. It seems also you don't attach this area to your scrubber system, if you have one. 4. It seems also you don't wear any breathing PPE at all when you are entering to this area.
You do have some good points but ammonia is flammable at a 15-18 percent concentration And at that concentration there’s no way I would be able to enter the room. That’s like 15,000ppm. There’s a leak detector in that room but it doesn’t alarm till it reaches 150ppm or 300 ppm. I do have my mask on me and personal monitor.
@@UlisesPalacios Actually I am now working in a factory that refine NH3 in Malaysia. Our safety system is not the best but we are thriving to meet our regulatory in terms of Safety, Health & Environment regulations.
Sulfur sticks were all we used back in the 60’s. There were no electronic detectors. None of that stuff. As far as fire danger, you wouldn’t get anywhere near a leak big enough to light on fire with a sulfur stick. Even with a mask that ammonia would be burning your skin inside your clothes.
So since the capacitor was wired backwards that's causes I'm assuming both the compressor and fan to run backwards? can this happen just by reversing the incoming powers polarity ?
Only thing I didn’t like was that Acid Away. Nothing belongs in a system besides refrigerant, and oil. No stop leak, or additives designed to absorb moisture or acid. If you do a proper clean up, you shouldn’t have to add something to finish the job.
is the noise at 1:34 "like a moped" is normal ? My heating pump is doing same noise, I've had a pac for a few years, and I find it surprising that it makes this noise.
1:26 This doesn't even have to be the removal or failure of the overload. This can happen simply if some dummy wires an outlet receptacle wrong! All it takes is something like a failed start relay or overheated compressor motor to short out the stator windings and unless the breaker trips, or house fuse blows, the rest is history.
The thin flapper valves are a weak point in compressors. They cracked in my Harbor Freight air compressor, but replacements were ~$8 and easy swap (youtubes). Of course no liquid passed thru, just fatigue from repeated flexing. Similar flapper plates in the Denso AC compressor of my 2002 Chrysler. Didn't break, but a rebuilder messed up, putting 2 flappers plates on one sid (stuck together) and none on the other side (dual-acting pistons). Tore it down and fixed it. Given the bent thick steel on the backers of this compressor, I agree that liquid likely got inside the cylinder to hydrolock. Appears not a robust design with that plastic inlet tube and iffy seal to keep out oil. I wonder if specific to Carrier, or if they out-source compressors. Indeed, many HVAC boxes come from the same factories with just different brand names attached.
