They were growing fast but I had to give them away so that I could take care of my father because he was very ill. About two months ago, my female clownfish jumped out of the tank. Unfortunately I'll have to hold off on breeding till I get another pair of clownfish breeding.
Lydgate beach is calm because there's rocks that are put around the beach to keep the waves from crashing in. There are fishes in that pool of water. There is a school of large yellow fin tangs there are well. Probably 20 or more and they are up to 2 ft in length. There's also a lot of smaller fishes as well by the rocks.
Neptune dropped the ball with this one. A complete L. Not only that but they won’t give any information on production. Over 25 years and no nutrients automation testing
I wasn't aware of the new mastertronic unit coming out. I will have to look into that one. Out of the new units, the one that i hope will be compatible with Hydros is the new Kamoer unit. Out of the units i know about, the Kamorer unit seems to be able to test all major parameters and test multiple times per day if needed in one complete unit. Now i just hope that i will be able to import the test results into the Hydros and utilize the data to automate minor dosing adjustments as needed or to do an auto water change. I have been waiting for the technology to catch up to this idea as it seems like the next logical step in automation. It will certainly be helpful, but i dont fore see a truly hands-off reef tank any time soon.
Looking into getting this after having an overnight power outage which almost cost me my tank. I live in a rental condo so a generator is not an option but I honestly just need something to run my pump and heater. We’ve had a few outages so I don’t want to take anymore chances
Great video. I have the same puffer in my SPS dominant tank as well. Mine also likes to sample new frags but does leave them alone afterward. I do have a pistol shrimp in my tank and so far there's been no issues. He will go after snails if the bottom is exposed but that's about it. My favourite fish!
Auto testing needs to become a normal thing in this hobby. This will help all of us out by being informed of any changes and to keep things stable easier.
Prices need to come down though and reagent costs. But with ICP now available, is it really necessary? If ICP prices come down more or there was a subscription base, being able get a bigger insite to the tank, it kinda makes them pointless.
I think it's not necessary but it would make it that much more enjoyable if one doesn't have the time to consistently test. I like being notified when a parameter is off so that adjustments can be make as soon as possible.
@ModernReefer I think machines of this complexity are always going to break down at some point. Will people bother with maintenance? Probably not. People have issues with the trident because they never clean the machine until a issue arrises. ICP you have no headaches. Just post the sample and wait for the results. They do all the maintaining of their equipment on a regular basis to lab spec.
@@adambundy2639 nothing wrong with icp but it’s way better to have daily tests done for you than not. One day these machines will get easier and more reliable (and cheaper when more people are using them). Innovation is always a good thing in any hobby. It will take time.
yes. This is a factory auto setup for Red Sea fish tanks so the factory ATO tank has a tube that goes to a float switch in the sump. I'm applying the same principle from the external bucket to the ATO tank.
First, just used food grade calcium carbonate in R/O its a lot cheaper, dose once a week the average time is 6-8 weeks. Ive killed vermatids in many tanks like this. It takes a while. 1 week is no where near long enough. The longest ever i needed to dose was 12 weeks.
I think you need to give it longer before judging. I've been dosing a diy snow and after 3-4 weeks I definatly notice less of the feeding lines from the snails. As someone else suggested you could also add bumblebee snails, I would but my clown wrasse would think he was being treated😂
@@mabdulmajeed1 That is one of the things I need to try again and do it for a month long to see if the results are better. The last time around, I did it for a week and then stopped because I ran out of the coral snow. I'm told I should do it for a month at least. I'll get some ordered and try again soon.
I used 25 bumblebee snails in my 100g. After a month, they were gone. Coral snow works but it takes a couple of months.to starve the vermetids. Bear in mind with coral snow, you are feeding them mostly calcium that has no nutritional value so in essence you are starving them-and thats a slow process.
Thanks for sharing the info. I have over 40 bumblebee and they don't go after the large vermetid snails. If I broke the vermetid shell, then they do their work but I just don't have the time to crack all the shells unfortunately.
Hello hello - how to select the pump power to handle the main water return to the aquarium and the manifold? Is there any rule that it must be for example +25%? Thank you in advance for help.
For me, I look at the the flow requirements for the tank, ca reactor, media reactor, etc and then add them all together. I then multiply by 2 so that I have room for adjustments later on as pumps do get slower over time. I also like to run my pumps 50-60% power so that it's not on max.
I tried one bottle of Coral Snow but didn't see any results. Some suggest trying a few bottles but those bottles are pretty expensive. I'll have to try it again at a later date.
What worked for me was the combination of: 1)Stop broadcast feeding, feed only minimum pellets that the fish will consume. 2) DIY Corol Snow every day 3) Bumble Bee Snails. After a few weeks I didn't seem to have any more. If its not bad for the tank maybe do Coral Snow twice a day. The idea is to waste all the vermitid's calories consuming Coral Snow so they have no energy to reproduce while they starve or get eaten by the BB snails.
It's only a week... I was doing it and I def think it helped with them. But other benefits too (although I did a DIY with a little bacteria and carbon)... I think it's probably great nutrition for the corals but also water clarity... anyhow I run ozone so that's not really an issue
@@ModernReefer regarding Vermitids I think I used it for 3 months and they were mostly gone. But my population had already dropped and I just bought the Calcium Carbonate (I think that is what it is) from a chemical manufacuturer (along with some other chemicals). IMO there's no real difference if you are trying to get rid of the Vermitids and I am not sure if KZ add anything else. I've become a very lazy reefer lately but if I wasn't DIYing the carbonate, adding some bacteria and food (I added Aminos and I think TM Bactobalance) is the way to go with a caveat... I've used some bacteria and some aminos in the past where I suspect they caused negative impacts on my corals. Having them bound up in the snow I think means they either get captured by the corals OR removed by the skimmer / become inert. This is why TMs Coral Snow thing is different and what I think they are trying to achieve - feeding the corals - as it didn't clarify the water when I was using. I still have it but MUCH prefer the DIY method as per Reefsite dot com's method. Also, Vermitids were not on my list as to reasons why I did it but I would definitely recommend doing it if they are a problem which mine used to be... I actually wonder what caused my population to drop... possibly using less coral foods and / or ozone... and saying that I'd add my foods into the snow in the future. Happy reefing! :)
I had a tonne of them. Got a few bumblebee snails but doubt that solved it until my Twistii Wrasse arrived and I don’t even remember when I stopped worrying about them or even seeing them, but they certainly never pose a problem now. The Twistii is one of those wrasse you can sometimes actually hear the clicking little pop of it sucking something out of the rockwork with force!
I read an article and lost it. But it said to only feed the tank flake and pellet food for a while. This way you stop feeding them. I can confirm my population is slowing since I started doing. I also never see the nets anymore being cast. But my tank is covered in them. It may take a long time before they all starve out. The article called for flake food and then dosing a supplement when they cast their nets during water changes to kill them but can’t remember what it was. But try just feeding flake food for a while. You’ll see a difference
Yep, I read that also. They will not eat flakes or pellets. They then starve. Also try a uv sterilizer. If they have a free swimming larvae stage the uv will sterilize them and they will not be able to reproduce.
Gladly I can remove my structures as I kept them as big as possible while still being able to take them out. I just cracked off many with pliers while moving my tank. I heard about starving them out, so maybe additional coral snow will take them out over a period of time.
BRS has these large curved shaped coral cutters that tend to be very helpful in crushing the base of these snails. Vermetids tend to go for foods that are being broadcasted and are meaty. Try feeding less and if you can switch to pellets for a while with the powerheads off. Avoid feeding over the rockscape. I am currently dealing with them and this has been helping in reducing their spread. Also after every feeding before I turn on the powerheads I hit it with 4ml of coral snow to try and trap someof that left over food and remove it from the tank.
Nice Video The only thing I Can say is that the product looks great Reed Dudes has another battery that is cheaper Any how The only thing I can say is that in case of an emergency most reefer will have only one or two power heads connected to the battery That way you can run more time Believe mostly any out there just wants to keep the tank alive not pretty looking while there is an emergency. Just a thought You bought a great battery you probably want to have only 1 or 2 power heads there. The choice is yours. Thanks for the videos have a good night
That is totally true. All one need is just a battery to power the dc pumps until the power comes back on. I went a little overboard here but I wanted to see how it would do with everything running.
Hi, just added a blue spotted puffer to my tank and I can confirm he definitely picks the vermitted snails of the rock! Will have to wait and see if he will continues once he had a taste of the main frozen food.
@@ModernReefer only noticed him going after the small ones but must say i only have a few large ones. I take them out with plier if i see them. He is about the size of a regular clown fish.
Honestly mine just went away after a couple years. One thing I did was stop broadcast feeding. I use only frozen brine and I use a pipette to feed the fish only what they can consume in a few seconds. Then I add more until the fish stop coming to the surface for more food. The shells of the vermented snails are still there but they don't cast that web anymore. I destroy the empty shells I can get to and they don't grow back anymore.
Thanks man. Just ordered the part on AliExpress. I’m in Japan so will take some time getting the parts and my first desoldering project. No Neptune products here so if this doesn’t work I’ll have to order from US.