This simple channel is a helping hand. We BUY GOOD QUALITY (when possible) and try to "MAINTAIN AND REPAIR" more often than we "THROW OUT AND REPLACE."
Tackling many automotive and home do-it-yourself (DIY) challenges are not very difficult with the right guidance, know-how, and desire. Having the right tools not only help with efficiency but makes the tasks more fun as well!
Follow along with us as we do our best to maintain and repair our home and automobiles for our family and friends, while trying to minimize our general waste footprint by trying to reuse as much as we possibly can.
In these videos, we show you what we do when things need to be maintained, fixed, or replaced. We don't encourage you to do the same as us unless you are comfortable with the activities, tools, and concepts. We're not liable for anything you decide to do yourself and always recommend seeking help from a professional, when in doubt!
We hope you enjoy your DIY journey as much as we do!
Hi in was wondering if your able to help me my tow/haul button works when I push it like it lights up but I don’t feel the rpm changing or nothing just drives the same does not feel like it’s engaging would this be caused by the same wire?
@@lmsdiy I just got the truck so I haven’t towed anything with it’s drives so good shifts smooth 140k miles just can’t feel the tow haul kicking in on my other Chevy 1500 when I push that button the rpm changes like kicks up higher this 2500 Silverado does nothing just trailer light turns on
@@faisals.6645 it will but it’s not a high revving feeling like a sports car. Where it will normally shift sooner for fuel economy, if you keep moderate pressure on the pedal it will likely climb to 3500rpm or higher and stay in gear longer. To be honest, I kind of don’t notice it if I’m not towing a load but I definitely know it’s on when I am towing.
I just bought a transfer pump from walmart (hyper tough $11.00) and it has sharkbite fittings to hold the hoses to the pump--much better than harbor freight and also has the clear standard tough hose that will not collapse. The HF hoses are way to soft for suction and will collapse. The hose will go all the way to the bottom in my caravan. Your small hose is probably stopped up with sludge and also to small. you could try cutting out a 1/4 notch at the end so it won't get plugged with sludge. Same technique as racking wine.You could buy the clear hose at homedepot that will work.
Thanks for sharing. Sounds like great value for that Walmart purchase. No sludge build-up in my transmission and I did a full service prior so I’ve seen the bottom of the tranny pan, fluid, and magnet. But after this video I used the clear hose a couple of times and no more suction issues. Like you said, it’s that soft hose that it came with that just collapses-junk!
Many thanks. I needed insight into removing and replacing the ignition coils and your video was very helpful in understanding how to remove the three in the back. Pizza and beer time?!
It's puzzling why some companies don't give their products easily distinguishable names instead of requiring a comparison of specifications by model number. As of 2024, for an additional $10, Model # PBLID01B is the superior choice with its 2200 in-lb (185 ft lb) max torque.
Not the same as my 03 Honda Pilot. Mine has a separate, smaller belt for the power steering pump. The upper engine mount has to be disconnected before putting that belt on.
Been using for the last 4 years a LEDLENSER H14R.2 and was 100 % happy. The battery pack has lasted 4 yrs. used every day for 8 hrs conservatively , I am blind in one eye and good eye is not so good! I finally replaced it through MAC tools with this Coast XPH 30 R 1200 LUMS. This Coast is much lighter but only time will tell . The LEDLENSER had the option of clipping battery pack on your belt , long cable fed the lamp. The comments sound encouraging.
4 years of daily use is very impressive actually. Hope you enjoy the Coast! Just be careful doing it because of the cheap plastic holders but Coast warranty/support is very good.
Great job on the reviews and clear, crisp presentation! Found it very helpful. Have just bought the Coast. Love that I can change out the batteries so as not to miss any work time. Bought and extra battery for just that reason. Also, do love the white light since I'm old and my eyes are not as good as they used to be. Works for me.
Do you know how tight an auto tech secures an oil drain plug and the oil filter? Well the 1/4" Ryobi impact couldn't bust it. So lucky thing I have the Ryobi PBLIWO1 1,070 breakaway torque pounds. It took mere seconds to remove the oil plug and oil filter where the 1/4" impact failed after about 10 seconds. When I bought it I tested it immediately on our SUV's lugnuts and it broke every nut I tried it on. So we're looking at a lot of work ahead together as we tackle everything around the house and auto. Beautiful just beautiful!
@@lmsdiy the manual for our Kia Optima states that the wheel lug nut torque should be between 65-79 lb-ft. The lug nuts were over torqued, and the baby impact couldn't handle it. I'm not sure what they were at, but I believe my Ryobi can handle the recommended range. I believe that my Silverado 1500 has to be at 140 lb-ft.
@@mannyu26 if you already have the impact, the battery and the appropriate impact socket, you’re only a $10 quarter inch adapter away from trying it. 🙂 My guess is that it would be enough for your Kia but I think it will have a difficult time trying to remove all 24 lugnuts off the Silverado. That’s just a guess on my part so I’m happy to be proven wrong! 😎
Number 8 plug is a demon. I was literally laying on top of the engine to get at it. I used my old plug wire to guide and thread it into position and then tightened it off with the socket.
What is causing you engine noise is the lifeters that are clogged and very difficult to clean without taking the engine apart and or replacing them. Every engine that I have seen that was abused in one way or another does the exact the same sound. Also, lets us not forget worn rockers do not help either. Peace fella vf.
@@lmsdiy I understand. Using transfluid is still the cheapest and best way I have found do far. One other thing, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR WHEN YOU DO THIS TRICK, . Peace vf
The oil I see in the video is brown. That is not the color you are suppose to have fella. The color is suppose to be on the black side. Also, you should get a meter which you can see the percentage of suspended particles and other parts that are in the oil itself.. Then you will be able to give some accurate information. What you are doing now is speculating. I do not know what was exactly in your engine to cause the brown mud color.
I started putting grease in the zerk for the ilder arm on the passenger side. I pumped and pumped and full red grease came out the other side. Wasn't anything in it. Dry as a bone. No wonder it isn't solid at highway speeds. It's okay though. I'm replacing all of it when all my Rock Auto boxes get here. She's a 2001 with OE parts on her. Time for a refresh.
Took me maybe 10 minutes to take it apart, disconnect the module and put it back together. charging the battery overnight. will then leave the car sit for a couple of days and see what happens. fingers crossed. Thank you!
Brother, I’m glad a watched this first, my RV has a ftlb of 103 (140nm) and I was going to use this as my emergency Tyre removal tool……I’ll forget that now ! (I also carry a breaker bar and lug nut wrench)
I put atf fluid in everything now. It’s in the transmission, the engine, the radiator the gas tank the tires and also my pan cakes. 100% all you need is some atf unless you have guns in which you need no atf or far far less atf.
Awesome. They did very well and no concerns. Just finishing trailering season and they performed perfectly. I’m planning to begin using this brand more and more for all our vehicles’ brakes. 👍
My pleasure. Since I’ve had it on the black powder coating has come off exposing the metal. I will primer and repair it but it’s not rusting or anything. 🙂
@@aveirozinou2919 he would run it with the ATF…his uncle has a Peterbuilt with an N14 Cummins and he puts a full litre of ATF in every oil change and a full litre in every tank of fuel and that truck hit over 3 million Kms on it before Cummins replaced the engine free of charge because he took it in for its scheduled valve adjustment and they screwed something up which damaged the engine so they replaced it for him on condition that he would give them his old engine so they could analyze it to see what failed and also how it lasted so long!..getting over 3 million kms on a truck engine without a rebuild is very abnormal even though the N14 is in the million mile club…
@@MrMan5014 that's awesome I'm surprised that can an engine run for 3 millions km, for sure the way he drive the truck and also way he uses atf make the difference, i have a volkswagen cc run with 5w40 oil, can i added atf to the oil or do i have to use it just for flushing the engine? Thank you for the reply man 🙂
@@aveirozinou2919 if it was my engine I would have no problem putting a quarter of a litre in the oil…that being said, using a 5w40 synthetic oil is probably all you need…oils are so much better today than they were years ago and putting ATF in the oil is an old school trick for older engines…
@@MrMan5014 probably innthis case i will use ATF as an engine flush every 2 or 3 oil drain (i usually do my oil change every 7500 km), to be honest i use it in my fuel disel tank for approximately a 300 km and it looks like a did a rebuild to my engine so quite so smooth, i do not know if i can use it every full tank refueling but if it will not harm the catalytic converter and the egr ( i will delete the egr sooner) i will never hesitate to do it 😅
Maybe I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but adjust the strut and knuckle slightly before/as you tighten the bolts but otherwise need to do the wheel alignment and you should be good. Is that what you mean?
I'm a little confused, and I would much rather trust you guys than the Ryobi representative I spoke to at the Home Depot the other day I asked him if a 2 amp hour or a 4 amp hour or a 6 amp hour battery has anything to do with the performance of the drill or impact wrench specs and he said no. He told me the battery affects run time not total performance. He gave me an example that a powerful tool like a half inch impact wrench for a chainsaw or whatever will use up the smaller batteries reserved power quicker. Do you guys agree because I have two two amp hour batteries and I'm only looking to have the tool in my truck in the event that I have to change my tire I do not do other mechanical work so there's no other reason to use the gun except to take off my 140 ft-lb lugs on my SUV
While I agree that the amp hour rating is simply referring to the batteries capacity and therefore longer runtime, it’s the cell count and configuration in the higher amp hour batteries that actually create the the possibility of more sustained power. In light duty applications, it won’t make a difference, but with heavier duty ones it will. Check out this link and decide for yourself: www.protoolreviews.com/battery-amp-hours-affect-power/
Leave the transmission oil there don't remove it. It will make your motor run better. Reason why transmission oil changes are every 60 to 90kkk is because transmission oil it protects the internal metals way better than motor oil. I have been adding 1 quart of transmission oil to all my oil changes, and I have never had any more thicking or valve problems. Start doing it... you will thank me later 🫵🏻
Have a 2007 Pilot EXL, bought it new 17 years ago, have just started watching your videos. Excellent. Just watched brake cleaning video, and I'm curious.... I had an independent shop do 4-wheel , pads and rotors service 2 years ago, and for the first time since 2007, I started to get a metallic brake squeal when backing up at SLOW speed, more pronounced first thing in morning. They said they couldn't find anything wrong, but.... Wondering if you have an opinion about whether that might be lack of putting silicone brake pad lubricant on the ears of the brake pads where they might contact the brake pad clips, or if it's common for the clips to get bent or re-installed incorrectly. ( If it's poor etiquette of me to ask this question in this way, please let me know, and apologies. )
Hi @travsprad if it's mainly in the morning it could just be condensation. I've learned to put silicon grease on all parts where metal rubs metal (except between the pads and rotor of course 😂) and it certainly helps. I haven't had any brake squeal with regular maintenance and we have very hot and cold snowy weather here. In a safe place you could also try braking in forward or reverse, and using the parking brake only to see if it's louder in the front or rear. That might help isolate it but I wouldn't be able to diagnose it remotely sorry.
I should mention that this was after installing new pads and rotors and maintenance. I've previously had a shop install new brakes and rotors all around and they ended up squeaking after a year and they couldn't figure it out at the shop at all... It was futile but that was with that particular shop.
Sorry skip that suggestion. I had it fresh in mind because I'm doing it on my truck but it has drum brakes in the back. The pilot has disc rear so this is not a valid suggestion...
@@lmsdiy Thanks for your reply! My issue is mostly when braking while backing upo, and mostly only at VERY low speed, like in parking lots. I read your suggestion about silicon grease, but was unsure if your later post was nixxing that suggestion. It's not critical, I've been living with it for a good while.I figured one of the clips might have bent, etc.
On silverado the wider orange tube fits in dipstick hole. If you do it when fluid is cold and has drained into pan overnight it works way better and faster ... drain container being lower makes big diff also ... and being parked with front downhill overnight tilts pan so more fluid is near dipstick where tube picks up ...
