Looking at slides on a light table first and expecting your scans to transfer that magic look is like seeing your partner eat the leftover Olive Garden breadsticks right in front of you. Your day just gets 8% worse.
Im just getting into film, using a very old and rusty can of d76 that i got a good deal on, seems to work fine, and the powder is virtually pure white, but i have a) literally never used anything else and b) have no clue what I am doing at all
Use an orange and either a blue or teal filter on black and white film to emulate cinecolor movies or a red filter and cyan to emulate technicolor 2/3 and maybe experiment with dyeing the film negatives and gluing them together to create diy negative slides
Idea for one more tri chrome experiment: use a lens with shallow depth of field (f/1.4 ff equiv or thereabouts) and focus three colors on three different subjects, but from the same position on the tripod. Goal is to have prominent bokeh in some of the color layers, but not the others.
The fridge film looked so much better to me. As someone who wants the best out of their film, that’s validation enough that I should continue freezing everything
The reverse trichrome i think is a great idea for having more power over double exposures in general if you treat it like a normal double exposure. It lets you control the intensity of each exposure, before combining them both as just a BW result.
I wonder if you could get more 'precise' (and I'm sure more expensive) filters for the reverse trichrome to isolate the light to only the portion of the wavelengths that don't have overlap on the response chart...
have you ever thought about trying to make an autochrome photo with film? since you love trichrome so much, I would assume you thought about it, if you tried this you would need to make an autochrome lens filter and a piece of glass plane also with an autochrome mixture to put on top of the finished image, you would have to bleach the film then develop it but if it does work it could result in an interesting picture at the end of it.
For the reverse trichrome it might be interesting to see how black on white text would work like getting more information out of one frame with a similar idea as a microdot
No no no, this is all good stuff. Experimental stuff is great and allows us to see whst happened. You may have also solved a mystery to me on why some films I have that are the exact same are curly and some not, despite being sold as "cold stored"... This video answers some great questions.
I like the idea of the multifocal trichrome. If I were to try it, I think I'd go with a zoom lens so I had more control about how much or little I zoomed; it could even make for interesting portraits if you had a very still subject, shot them small in frame, and only varied the zoom a little bit. I've also tried the reverse trichrome, to mixed effect. Thanks for sharing your results; it's exciting there are still boundaries to push in film in 2024!
On trichromatic photography ideas I had once a theoretical one: using IR sensivity film like Rllei IR400 (sensitive up to 820nm) or similar and capture a 3 band false-colour image using band filters (for example 700, 750, 800 nm) plus a visible block filter/wood filter and then asign RGB colour and produce a total false colour image. The colour channel shift woulb something like "IR made visible and in colour).
reverse trichrome is actually wild, maybe a bichrome would also work well for completely separated BW images and cool colored double exposures, like blue-red or even cyan-red, could also look cool af as a 3d cyan-red image in colour and 2 views of the same object in BW using this idea
Love this channel, always shocked with the outlandish stuff you test and experiment with. Your work is so unique and you're a master at it even if things don't always come out perfect
You just need better filters for the task for reverse trichrome. The normal trichrome ones (25, 58 whatever) are meant to overlap, other filters are meant to be a lot sharper and narrower of a range. There are definitely all kinds of sharp cutoff blue and red bandpass filters. if you can't find a type of green, you should be able to stack a generous low pass and a generous high pass that have passed by each other, so together they let though sharply-cut-off green only, The images would probably look weird and bad though, because everything other than like... specifically kelly green objects would just be black in the image.
I’m half expecting a new trend of examining the effects of varying degrees of mistreatment of fresh and expired film stocks before shooting them. So far it looks like there are no definitive “rules” about what happens when heat or odd storage of film is in play.. results are all over the place - both good and bad.
when i heard reverse trichrome i imagined taking a trichrome of a single location but triple exposing, one with each filter. it would probably be pretty interesting if you get like an urban landscape where a lot of stuff is moving
For the hot and cold experiment, you should do it with slide film because it's a lot more sensitive to improper storage conditions (just buy some expired slide film with unknown storage history to see the effect), you could possibly find a threshold for how long a certain slide film can withstand poor conditions too, because it's obviously not going to go bad with a few hot days, otherwise you wouldn't be able to use the film in hotter weather. Perhaps 1 month, 3 months, 6 months, and a year? For the reverse trichrome, does thresholding the channels help separate them better, although you may end up losing some information in the channel that you desire in that case, it is a necessary aspect of it. Again, maybe try it with slide film since there isn't a mask on slide film to interfere with the channels either.
You should try the leaving film in the car for a year with different films. Gold is a consumer/prosumer film that is designed with the understanding that it may be stored in less than ideal conditions. Portra on the other hand, not so much. Ultramax and colorplus were designed to last even longer and in worse conditions. It should be very interesting to see how much difference there really is.
How negligible are storage temperatures actually? What if you cooled one roll to for example -20C (-4F) and heated another to 20C (68F), what would be the difference. And how would a roll react if it was subjected to both temperatures? OR go extreme and put one roll in liquid nitrogen and bake another roll in the oven. You wouldn't want to melt the film or have it become so brittle it breaks, but wow far would one have to go before you can actually tell the difference?
Kodak Gold is basically indestructible at this point, so not surprised. lol. But that does make me think my Kodak Gold has gotten too hot... most of my Gold 120 rolls are super curly like that, and I store all of my film in the fridge before and after shooting (awaiting development). Although maybe it could also be due to ambient humidity while drying.... Some of the "reverse trichromes" were pretty cool!
Check out some weird developers if you want. Caffenol is a banger for sure, I think some people have developed film with beer before which sounds hilarious.
The film left in the car seems like it has better contrast? I think? The shadows look slightly darker to me. And the colors appear slightly warmer too. So I think I like the one left in the glove box better tbh xD
The last experiment (three in one 3ch) could theoretically be salvaged by channel mixer and very careful mathematical calculation. In theory, you should be able to compensate the color bleed in the mixer.
With the Trifocal Trichrome, I think it would be cool if you tried to get the same coposition for each focal length - Which would be a much bigger ball ache though it my make for a fasinating image...
It looks under exposed 1/3~2/3 stop which gave it some yummy shadows tbh. I almost chalked it up to lens differences till he said he was switching backs on the same camera.
@@willowrabbit Ah okay. Is it under exposed though or is the other one slightly over? The fridge images looked brighter and more flat from what I remember.