Phoenix has much more dynamic range than that. I have photos from Phoenix in harsh light developed in C41 that have decent dynamic range, a touch more than Ektachrome. It's really the scanners where Phoenix falls apart.
If you want to shoot instant film with a Hasselblad it's totally worth it. Otherwise you can spend that money on actual important things like 30 Chipotle burritos or something.
I use a Zinstax back on my RZ67. I've had exactly the same experience trying to meter at box speed and much better results at 1600. My nieces love seeing the instax photos so for that alone it's been worth the money.
Tip from someone who has shot a lot of Instax: your exposure duration actually affects the color response. Ideally you shoot it at 1/60 or 1/125. Anything slower begins to skew blue very dramatically, higher shutter speeds gradually give a warmer response
@@nbautista12 I think it's more like 640. But with the very narrow dynamic range, it's hard to tell precisely. I treat it like slide film and meter for the highlights. The brightest point with detail is about 1 2/3 stops over, the darkest point with detail is about 1 2/3 stops under.
@@dmrain94 even more interesting! I recently purchased one of Mint’s TL70 plus cameras that also uses instax squares. Love the shooting experience but like Attic Darkroom, would say the film is temperamental so hoping any tips shooting it will help. Thanks for sharing!
Shooting Instax with the Lomograflok on my 4x5, the biggest issue I've found is that it's basically only got about 3 stops of usable dynamic range, compared to the 8-10 or more of most negative film stocks. That means most built-in camera meters that take a scene or centre-weighted average just aren't going to be enough to know if the scene will expose correctly. I've had my best results so far shooting studio portraits using strobes, but you've got to meter really thoroughly and use a *really* flat lighting ratio to get anything good. I can also really recommend the black & white Instax if you can get it!
Look forward to seeing more trichrome work with this combo! Hope you make a video on it! Love the content! Always excited to watch when i get a notification that youve uploaded a new video!
One way to use Instax is to meter for the highlights and use flash to illuminate the foreground. This works well with the Mamiyas and Hasselblads due to their fast sync speeds at 1/500th
i took an inxtax mini around before i ever had any 35mm developed. it was fun crossing the country hitting up goodwills for film and just taking pictures. its its own animal from real film, it will squeeze depth out of the latest scenes. in my eye not better or worse just different. gotta re calibrte the brain to instax mode to get landscapes and light houses out of what reely wants to be flash portraits in dim lit partys.
Enjoyed the video!! Did you look into the HassyPB? Made by a super nice guy in Thailand and seems to address many of the issues you had with the Nons. Similar price too
I had escura from kick starter was kinda disappointing and I got this as well. If the could clear out the black frame and fully cover the install square would be great. My dark slide was also scratched due to the crank as well. Manual ejection for me is good so I could be creative with multi exposure
Did they actually create a USB-C device without the mandatory 5.1k resistors? That's why it doesn't charge, the device is simply out of USB spec. You expect that from $10 USB flashlights, not $300 device. For such price I'd actually return it.
I have a zinstax for my RZ67, it works pretty well but it does take time to get used to how to shoot instax with no dynamic range. It sometimes gives a light leak when i replace the dark slide but its not really that bad, just a white spot on one side of the frame.
Ive been working on making some of these for other medium format cameras. Also, keep in mind, instax looks WAY better than Polaroid And 8:46 its wider but its actually not nearly as deep as the stock back
Temperamental film exposure is an issue, but I don’t expect perfect clarity or exposure from this. But it could be better. I bent the dark slide the first time I used it. Inserting the slide is very difficult when new, and damn near impossible once bent, especially when trying to do so when the back is still mounted on the camera body.
It would be nice, if they made the instax square magazine universal like the Polaroid type 100 magazines, with different mounting plates depending on the camera.
Ar this point I am almost certain that instax film has some reciprocity shenanigans relates to EV. There seems to be a sweet spot EV for 800 but any other EV requires extra extra compensation and with a significant DR drop
HVSQ made a better version of the instax magazine, it is compatible with all the hassy v system line and is slick, small and full metal I've never been so happy to buy a well designed item like that, has full warranty and the company is happy to replace it with updates. It took 4 years to master the 2.1 version but again it was worth the wait Cons: for some users could be expensive
You can't really resolve much from the prints so having sharper lenses don't really do much. From a distance they look about the same. The nice thing is being able to control depth-of-field or shooting macro or shooting anything other than f11 and flash.
Going by official datasheets, I recall that instax >wide< resolves 10lpmm, or equivalent to like 3mpx. You don't need much resolving power. But you won't get much blurred backgrounds with these dark plastic lenses.
@@atticdarkroomThe ability to use this in low light without flash is what interests me the most. I'm just not comfortable in buying a product without warranty (it can't be shipped back as it has an internal battery). I had a Kindle that was DOA and I could not get it replaced.
So it seems like whoever designed this never actually used a Hasselblad before. It does look solidly built, but shoddily designed. Maybe they'll do revisions in the future to fix those issues you brought up.
I toyed with the idea of grabbing the Lomograflok back for my 4x5, but what keeps putting me off is the terrible dynamic range of Instax film. I like Instax for what it is, but if you can't handle a woodland scene on a cloudy day without blank white skies... that's worse than slide film.
2:00 extra is because the film has guides to hold it flat and the instax film is wider and held further away. Image circle is the same, you just don’t see it on 120 because it’s effectively slightly masked. You’d get slightly larger images still on a 70mm back. 100% with you on the battery, hate them fixed in. That the dark slide supposedly doesn’t reliably work is kind of ridiculous honestly, as is the inability to wind with it in. Surely they could also have punched a hole in the dark slide and had a micro switch for the body pin to hit and use to trigger ejecting? As for the film, yeah it’s nice when it works but it’s very very high contrast. I’ve shot it a fair amount in a lomo back (and one sheet at a time manually before that) in a studio with strobes and you need to be within 1/3 of a stop essentially and with very low contrast ratios. Try a reflector if you’re outside with small enough subjects.
