Mine makes the same exact noises. But the only thing that is different is that it reads DVD’s just fine, but when I put in Elden ring PS5, nothing. Same issue or you think it’s laser?
Whats that yellow tap look alike called that you used to reinforce it the hole that connect to the posts is ripped tried using electrical tap but nothing 🤦♂️
Thanks, yes we can not replace with stock sticks or Hall Effect anlogs and calibrate them correctly: ubermicro.co.uk/product/dualsense-edge-analog-stick-drift-repair/
My right joystick lost its calibration after it fell, so I replaced it with another one, problem is it works fine in Elden Ring, but in Need for Speed Hot Pursuit Remastered when I use DS4Windows the camera is set to back as if I'm holding down on right stick, before change it it was fine, funny thing if I close DS4Windows it works fine.
@UberMicroRepairs just got home from work and tried some things. Did a power cycle while one the dock, this allowed me to remove it and still have power. Could turn off and back on by controller alone. After this I tried connecting USB and it shut it down. May just leave it alone since all buttons and thumbsticks work.
@UberMicroRepairs this charging power circut, does it happen to include the 2 figure 8 springs? Because I did have one break off. It was the J2 spring on positive.
So its driving me a bit crazy... But iv had the elite controllers since the beginning and just the other day... was the first time I saw this option... I did it... AND NOW I CANT FIND IT ANYWHERE! Its gone.
The obligation to have these 2 PCBs soldered so as not to have interference with the triggers is a real thorn in my ass. I want to change my XboX Series sticks myself and there are new potential risks of screwing up that present themselves to me with all this soldering because of this damn interference. Isn't there a simpler solution to isolate the Hall Effect from this small magnetic source? Like a small iron plate that would be placed against the potentiometer? Anyway, thank you for this video. It shows exactly what to solder where and how if I really have to deal with this stain on my controller. This will require me to invest a minimum in a vice system (my little pliers are too weak for such a meticulous task) and a magnifying glass, not to mention the exercises that I will have to do to train myself to squeeze my buttocks properly. The work doesn't seem too difficult, but the extra wires and diodes are what scares me. I would test with metallic self-adhesive tape on the most exposed side of the potentiometer to see if it can avoid all this work. A surface sufficiently sensitive to magnetism can paradoxically act as an insulator. It shouldn't rub the thumbstick and the trigger magnets are far enough away and small enough that it might work. A small elastic band should also be enough to hold it in place if old age and heat loosen the tape. It's not great to have a conductive object that moves freely on a PCB, LMNAO. If it ever works, I will report the result to you (when I take the next step in the still undetermined future ^^).
Pure nickel is the best magnetic insulator. I've tried it all. It needs to be about 3mm think to be anywhere near effective! This is the only best and worse way round it! If that makes sense?
@@UberMicroRepairs Ok. Too difficult to find, probably too expensive for such a project and takes up too much space not to interfere with the stick. Thank you very much for these details.
Some people (myself included) were unable to find this application on the Microsoft Store directly and by downloading the link that takes us to this Microsoft Store page, the download button does not even appear. I found a solution that worked for me and hope it can help others who are experiencing this problem. To do this, I just had to go to the Windows settings to change my region by selecting United States then restarting the Microsoft Store by typing "WSReset" in the Windows search bar then clicking on the green icon for the result this research. You then just have to search for the application in the Microsof Store which, this time, will appear in the results as well as the download button, and you don't even need to restart the computer. It's been days since I tried to recover this damn software by any means possible, notably by looking for a "portable or independent" version but in vain before coming across a forum which gave me this tip. Thanks for this video anyway. I would have liked to see a circularity test before and after calibration with the GamepadTester tools to see the precision provided by this calibration. I plan to soon replace my sticks with Hall Effects and I would like to have a preview of what I can expect from this software. I'm going to play mad scientist a bit. I have an official XboX Series X/S controller and I'm going to buy Elite 2 sticks (those with a screw thread on them and whose spring tension can be adjusted) obviously with screwable thumbsticks adapted to these modules. I would also buy XboX One/Series X/S sticks with their Hall Effect potentiometers to replace those that would be delivered with the Elite 2 sticks in the event that they were not the same (and there is a good chance that this is the case) because, good god, it is difficult to find information on the resistance of these Hall Effects (2.3k or 10k and how to distinguish them), on their sense ( some work in the opposite direction, others for reading the position of the stick) and on which controller uses which pair of potentiometers. I have already replaced the basic Thumbsticks with those from an old, dead Elite 1, on the analog modules. There are no threads to cause problems when refilling and they are exactly the same which worked perfectly. On the other hand, this is not the case with the D-Pad. You can replace the basic D-Pad with the magnetic ones from the Elite 1 but the latter is less deep than the original one. The D-Pad remains a little buried in the casing which makes the use of the cross inconsistent and that of the round module (which looks more like the original) almost unusable, especially for the down key which hooks the cock on the edge of the plastic shell for both cases.
Ive got a connection with cable issue im trying to sort out. Got power but no cable detect. New port and now new power board but still no cable detect.
@@UberMicroRepairs well ps4 games work and ps5 games just sometimes even though they are brand new. Do you know how i can sent it back for repair to sony? because its just 4 month old
You make it look easy....but I tried this repair and somehow unsoldered the terminals for the pos and neg connection on the board. Now there doesn't appear to be anything to solder to. Any suggestions?
Thank you, From what you are describing you may have pulled the pads from the PCB. If you can send a picture of the battery terminals to enquiries@ubermicro.co.uk I may be able to help.
It’s a 300€ controller, that’s unacceptable. This is the reason I modified all my PS5 controllers with Extreme Rate parts, way better and cost saving. Now my last mod will be replacing potentiometers with Hall effect units. At the moment I read Ginfull V5 units are pretty good.
Ok so i need a bit of help i have a PS5 and i need to install the newest update but it gives me an error code SU-101312-8 which means the disc drive is not being read any help would be appreciated! Pin comment if you could
It's honestly crazy that my PS5's laser breaks so easily, when my launch day PS3 is still strong, has way longer playtime, and been in rougher shape lol. I had to replace the laser on my PS5, and now I'm wondering if I should stock up on replacement parts, simply because it seems to be a recurring issue for many people...
Is there a good source for finding Xbox SCUF Instinct Pro parts? I have a friend that requires a specific plastic part that attaches to the lever on the backshell (the clip on the back that basically converts the normal trigger function to a mouseclick). The plastic cap that goes over the lever basically chipped off so now there is no way to reliably press on the mouseclick switch. I'm from the US but any source may help. I'd even take a whole Instinct Pro backshell but I just need a source for that specific piece.
SCUF controllers are notorious for this the cap of the stick scraping the shell sometimes to the point it even gets stuck especially on SCUF Impact where they have replaceable sticks with removable plastic around the stick i have 3 of those all 3 had this issue and i had to order several replacement rings and sanding down them to allow the stick to move properly
I don't agree when it comes to moding controllers / consoles. Flex cables are a professional way of doing quality work. On a side note in a stock Xbox controller covering all the models there are no flex cables at all. The PlayStation on the other hand has exclusively used them and tbh, they are fine. Also remember SCUF / Corsair just re-shell standard Xbox and PS controllers it's the only way they can get round the licensing.
@@UberMicroRepairs No ,flex cables are not needed when a simple socketed wire can carry the info they need. Simple. So yeah, i didsagree with your entirely. Enjoy :)
Cex is the worst. I went in with a brand new phone I had just bought out of Vodafone and just out curiosity to see what they would grade it, and the girl told me it was a C grade and would get £40 for a phone I paid £250 20 min earlier after showing her the box and the receipt from Vodafone she went bright red and the 3 people who where about to sell a phone walked out the shop waited out side and thanked me 😂😂 what they do is give you a shit grade then send it to another shop as grade A DONT USE CEX
Saw a YT short on this the other day. The guy was trying to make out a scratch on a 10 minute old iPhone 10. Graded it as B, the phone was new, 110% new! 😆
I don't understand the prices for some of these controllers, my gamesir T4K costs 30 quid and looks much better with hall effect triggers and sticks. Works perfectly 1 year after which for some of the scuff controllers would be an achievement.
@@UberMicroRepairs agreed, they are. But when you're Microsoft or scuff that produce them in their millions through factories that they have relationships with, they won't cost much. It's not the same as using the likes of PCB way to produce one off bespoke designs. And then even still, they charge what they do because it's hardly something we can make at home, so once again they know we'll pay it. Look how cheaply you can get PS4/ps5 controller face button fpcbs for. 100 for £20 😂 this doesn't warrant +£150 on a regular controller... But I'll still buy elite controllers 😭
I realise that buying in bulk is exponentiality cheaper, these devices are built to a cost. There is BOM and they have to project sales to get the prices down. The sales fluctuate from week to week and they even it out with the cost of the device. It's incredibly more complicated than singling out one or two components on the device.
Not sure if I have this problem, replacement drive not working (with original board). Drives take the disk but never fully spin, no error code is posted. Any other ideas or way to confirm the IC has gone? Happy to do my own repairs but wouldn’t want to solder as only have a basic £10 one, don’t think that would be good enough for this
@@UberMicroRepairs thanks. I did think could be the laser but I’ve tried the original drive and two replacements now. Just can’t seem to figure out the problem. Thanks for the reply
Marketing BS class it as 2K "you'll find 2K monitors with a display resolution of 2560x1440, that's why it's often shortened to 1440p" Also known as Quad HD (QHD) or 1440p. Either way it's just a term and it works, I'm just going to roll with it.
Started by repairing / modding my own stuff, The purchased broken stuff. Got confident at doing some simple repairs and it snowballed from there. I've always been into repairs/ modding / making / building over several hobbies since I was very young.
Correct. I wasn't too happy about using cyanoacrylate as it doesn't bond to ABS plastic too well. I just needed the screw to have some grab. The main chassis screws will do the rest of the clamping force. Also the midframes are not standard so I can't just swap it out.
the qulity on a custom mudded controller is sad its like you dont even pay for decent parts at the price point id expect it to be like what you just did not trash
I have a cuestion what happens if i calibrate a Xbox series x or s controller with Hall effect joystick on the xbox app do it works or it would not work help pls and nice video
