I have a 2019, and the frame doesn't have those 2 holes where you route the hose through the upper hole, which keeps it away from the exhaust shield. On mine there's one hole but it's lower and thus would bring the hose closer to the exhaust shield.
You are awesome dude, it's so easy, I've never changed dif fluid before so i had no idea what to expect, but I sure as hell did not expect it to be this easy 😂Toyota said $428,i said hold on let me check youtube real quick😂😂😂😂
rear diff is the perfect one to get your feet wet! go get the supplies and kick your feet back and marvel at the over $300 savings you've just completed! Best of luck, you got this. -Austin
This is a coolant fluid drain and fill, not a full coolant flush. In order to get the 10-11qts out, you’d likely need to pump it through the block/heater core to get it all out. Changing out ~70% of the fluid is good enough to get any of the acidity/contaminants that we’re worried about out of the system! -Austin
@@teamoildrop do you happen to have a coolant flush video I thought this was the same thing. Did it now at 60k since I just bought the truck my first Tacoma so I’m still learning. Will probably do the flush at 100k. Awesome content btw it really helped me. I’m following your videos since I’m doing all the fluids/oils since I don’t trust the dealership did them even though they said they did
We don't have a flush video. Flushes are typically done at a mechanic shop with a machine that has an external pump and is pumping fluid through the cooling system. So not exactly DIY friendly since you need a special machine. For DIY, drain and fill is more than good enough. -Austin
Throttle response is more similar if you pick mild, but if you go up to medium or spicy, the throttle is a lot more responsive than that of the ECT Power button. Shift points on the OTT are smoother and more well balanced, sometimes ECT Power really drags out the gears unnecessarily and OTT has a much more adaptive shift map rather than a minimum set value. -Austin
Just ordered your maintenance tracker and map and headed over to check out your channel. By far one of the best DIY videos I've seen to date. Commentary was paced perfectly, and camera shots were spot on. Production level for this content is much appreciated. Looks like I'm going to tackle the rear drums.
@@teamoildrop It might take me a minute, but I'll be watching your library of content. I've hesitated at the transmission c/o, but if it is explained in a similar fashion and pace as the rear drum video, I'll tackle it. There is a cost savings to DIY, but also an unchartered metric being a sense of accomplishment. Thanks again for the stellar content. Now the only choice is which video to watch first lol...
@@EuroboostUSA we take every task nice and easyyyy. Proceed at your own risk but know we are always a quick message away. Join us in the discord as well for quicker responses and help 😎
They're two different numbers actually: Drain washer: 90430-24003 Fill washer: 12157-10010 drain is the copper flat washer and fill is the stainless crush washer -Austin
This is one of the best DIY video formats and style I’ve seen, and I’ve watched quite a few. Thank you! Now I can confidently look forward to kicking, screaming, and cursing while on the driver’s side this weekend.
Quick question here - went through the temp check procedure and when I was in drive it was solid, put in park and it flashed D. Went back to D and solid again. Which one am I tracking? I got 2.5 qts out on the drain, put in 3.75qts, and then drained 1qt from the overflow
@@ovrt21 sounds like it was telling you the fluid was too hot to continue, indicated by the flashing D, and when you went back to drive it left temp check mode. I’d redo temp check mode on a cooler day and be ready for a drain, just to be sure.
@@teamoildropdrove around this morning and shifting felt smooth. Would I need to add more fluid back in? Are there any markers I should be looking out for to flag issues?
As long as you had a small trickle at the end before you capped the check valve, you should be at the correct fluid level. It's harder to say affirmatively based on the quantity you drained and refilled as you don't know what the level was at prior to the fluid exchange. -Austin
You can certainly do this, but it actually might end up pushing more oil out of the fill hole though with all the gears turning and spinning up the oil in the housing. -Austin
Love all your videos, so incredibly informative. One note, those two pesky bolts at the bottom of the brackets, they are super easy to access through the front wheel well rather than coming in from the top..
Is it recommended to loosen UCA and re-torque with weight on the tires after new struts or is that only necessary with extreme lifts? I’m doing bilstein 5100 on #2 0.85” to level my 4Runner.
Technically all suspension components should be torqued while the vehicle weight is loading up the suspension. Although some components do make that very difficult when you have the wheels on the vehicle or it's on the ground. The UCA isn't mission critical to torque while on the ground, but it is recommended. -Austin
My Taco has just over 20,000 miles and EVERYTHING underneath is getting really rusty. (Its never been off road) I have a little Mitsubishi mirage with 150,000 miles that is way older and the undercarriage looks way better. I would reccomend going under the Tacomas immediately after driving it off the dealers lot, and coating everything you can with a zinc rust inhibiting paint, and then coating it with whatever protects against moisture.
Unfortunately with the large amount of steel components under the Tacoma's, they do start to show rust before their unibody counterparts. We highly recommend a lanolin based oil coating get applied at least once per year, ideally in the fall before winter comes. -Austin
Fluid in the pan is at 95-113 deg Fahrenheit when temp check mode is activated. Pan itself isn’t measured but likely a few degrees cooler, probably somewhere in the 80s. -Austin
@@wade998 I am almost positive the procedure will go identically… it’s been a MINUTE since I did this to a second gen and back then I was doing the outdated method… bolt sizes may differ but procedure will be the same. Be safe and go slow!
More simple than the older models, any of the 2020+ you just need to start the truck and go from N to D back and forth until the D disappears. Then you wait for the D to reappear when you're at the correct temp. See below for technical writeup: AC60F (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION / TRANSAXLE): AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID: ADJUSTMENT; 2020+ Tacoma To enter automatic transmission fluid temperature detection mode: Depress and hold the brake pedal. Start the engine. [#1] Turn off electrical and mechanical loads Slowly move the shift lever from P to S, then move the shift lever to P. (~3 seconds each position [#2] While observing the D shift indicator on the combination meter, move the shift lever back and forth between N and D at an interval of less than 1.5 seconds for 12 seconds or more. [#3] Perform #1, #2, & #3 within 60 seconds Check that the D shift indicator comes on for 2 seconds. Move the shift lever from N to P. Release the brake pedal. Allow the engine to idle until the automatic transmission fluid temperature reaches 35 to 45°C (95 to 113°F). The D shift indicator will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 35°C (95°F) and will blink when it exceeds 45°C (113°F). Performing this operation will cause the vehicle to enter fluid temperature detection mode and engine idle speed control mode. In engine idle speed control mode, engine idle speed control starts when the fluid temperature reaches the specified temperature and the engine speed is maintained. -Austin
So I noticed in your video, the original pads had shims on them, but when you reinstalled the new ones, there was no shims on the backside of the pads. Was this a misstep or intentional in your video???
@@ryank.7920 if I recall correctly those were Bosch coming out with the fixed shims on them. I switched to OEM without shims (not recommended) as for some very minute odd reason (maybe bad shims) OEM pad shims combo had squealed on me previously. Ignore that part of the video and shim as normal. I think I covered this in the notes section of the comments as well for you eagle eyed viewers.
90301-15004 is the Toyota part number for it, but you don't necessarily need to use this part as a replacement. It's just a standard O ring and any that matches in size will work just fine as well! -Austin
Hi there, I just bought a used 2009 tacoma and the spare tire is a bit loose. It needs the key lock to tighten it, and the kit is missing, as I am the 4th owner. Any idea on how to get the key lock so I can tighten it? Or any other ideas on how to tighten it without the key lock? the hook obviously wont work in this instance. Any advice greatly appreciated!
So you can actually purchase an OEM lock replacement set, unfortunately they're not super cheap. If you're able to crawl under the truck you can get up there and try to pry off the locking portion but you may not be able to reach with the spare still in the way unfortunately. Here's a link for that OEM lock/key that would allow you to drop or tighten your existing one on the truck. amzn.to/3XErH4t -Austin
