Jeff has been in business for over 20 years! Old school Tips and information about SMALL ENGINES and MORE. All HORSEPOWER makes and models Lawnmower Repair and Service Tips! Craftsman , riding , John Deere , Poulan , Ryobi , Toro , Snapper , Sears , Hayter , Mountfield , Coleman , MTD , AYP Anyone can fix their own lawnmower or start a business fixing lawnmowers with the help from my channel. Thanks friends! PLEASE KEEP IN MIND when you are watching my videos: I am showing you the least expensive, quickest "backyard" methods for repairing or servicing your lawnmower or equipment. Replacing all components such as gaskets and fuel lines is always recommended when rebuilding or repairing equipment. With these videos I hope you are able to fix and repair your lawnmower yourself with minimal parts, knowledge and tools. Thank you for watching!
My problem is it would spin the starter but not engage. I started by checking the battery voltage and it was negative. I had the new battery hooked up backwards lol. I flip the battery around and reconnected it, and it started right up!
Good job and good video, thanks!!!! I might be doing the same on my Snapper SPX 2246. The rear end seems to have just quit working today. I was able to back it out of the shed, but it seemed a little "glitchy" like it was slipping, but now it won't go forward or reverse. I checked the belt tension, it seems adequate, but will have my wife operate the pedal when she comes home from work later today so I can see if the pulley on top of the transaxle is actually spinning or not. If the trans is bad, I do have a potential buy of a Snapper LT120 with (hopefully) the same transaxle for $75. It's missing the deck, has four flat tires, and of course the motor doesn't run. So, we will see how this turns out in a day or three. Wish me luck lol. 😁
I put a new solenoid on my Mary 14 horsepower new battery it's not clicking it's not doing anything when I turn it over the batteries brand new news Illinois so what else could I do is it the starter or is it the ignition switch?
Hello, my regards, thank you for your videos, which are really excellent and a great help to everyone. I have a Honda TB 130 XP, but it keeps throwing white smoke and some oil from the exhaust. It has power, so I don't rule out the possibility that it's the rings, but I've heard that it could be the poorly calibrated carburetor that produces smoke on my lawnmower, meaning that the needle is too high and the gasoline goes into the crankcases, making the oil rise. Question: Could this be true? I don't know what to do to repair this machine anymore. Could you please explain to me that I should do to end this nightmare?
You can't even test this carb without putting the entire thing back together since it will not run without the air filter on. It took me a little while to figure that one out, lol.
I have a Craftsman mower with the same engine. It runs great under load, but if I set the parking brake and let it idle, it will start surging. This mower sat in my shop for a year and half due to several issues. I have been through the carburetor once. The main jet is stripped, so it is not coming out. Is there anything I can do for it?
Mine only locks up when the engine is not running, but once I put the transmission in any gear it unlocks, but then locks up when it sits for a few. Same issue you think?
I have been working on a Kohler Command 25. It had no spark. Tested the coils and one was dead. I found out that you have to replace both coils if one is bad. So I bought 2 new coils. No spark. Then I disconnected the kill wire and received spark. Then the carburetor was the problem and I fixed it but no one talks about what happens to the spark advance unit if you disconnect the kill wire. No one says that it might throw the timing off that it won't run even though it has spark. What has been your experience with the Spark Advance Module. Can the engine be rewired to use the new coils and bypass/ eliminate the Spark Advance Module?
I watched your video again and realized you use an air pressure hose to clear out the gas tank. I have a mower with a Honda engine exactly like yours which needs to have the fuel removed and the tank and lines cleared with the air hose. Any suggestions how this could be done at home as I have no air hose. This mower is different from the mower mentioned below in the comments and which also has been in storage. Thank you for a very practical video and for posting it!
Okay im not going to be a gamma and rip into you. Initially i taught you must be left handed but what you done is incorrect. The torx is the lockscrew that needs to be removed slightly. The nut is for adjusting the rocker. No torque need be applied to that nut other than to help remove the screw. I seen others saying use locktight... do not use lock tight. I aim for 0.15mm exhaust 0.1mm intake
Thank you for posting! That’s the exact mower I have with the Honda engine. I used Chevron premium gas octane 94 while in storage for the last 2 years while starting it every 3-4 weeks. It started okay with fresh gas but I made the mistake of tipping it on the air filter side to clean the deck and gas dripped out of the air filter. When I started it again it smoked for a long time. I added fresh gas and kept running it and now it’s working well.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice Always is. Im glad to see when your channel shows up in my search. You have helped me in many repairs. Appreciated. Thanks again.
Have you ever seen one of these briggs motors with the intake valve on top? There are no numbers on my valve cover for me to see what series the motor is specifically (just know it is a 17.5hp in a Scotts S1742). Every video I have watched has the intake valve on the bottom with the aluminum push rod on the bottom, but mine has the aluminum rod on top which has caused me to believe that the top has to be the intake valve. But now I am wondering if someone worked on this motor previously and mixed up the push rods
I used this to fix my Rear wheel drive M320. I do not have a channel, but filmed it if you’d like to narrate it and add it to your channel. Thanks Much CE
The carbs for this engine all seem to have the same problem; they leak and start POURING gas into the engine. I'm on my third replacement carb...after cleaning each one countless times.
@@jeffslawnmowerrepairandservice What's the best price you've found for a genuine original carb for this engine? I went to Briggs and Stratton website and they're asking $230 for one. At that price I could get a lot of something else.... They're such a simple little thing, they can't be WORTH more than $30. Somebody is gouging heavy.
Hello there. Thank you for the great video. I noticed you said the engine is only 16 hp. I failed to notice how large the deck was for that lawnmower. Maybe it was a 42 or a 46. However, if you think back 25 years ago, they were putting a 12, 13 and 14 hp engines on mowers that size. I don’t know why they’ve increased the horsepower so much. I’m not complaining though. I have a 42 inch “Troy Bilt” with an 18 hp “Braggs & Scratton” engine and a 19 1/2 hp I can put on it if the 18 hp goes out. Both engines are in good running condition so far and are Braggs & Scratton (I’ve gotten caught up with the “Taryl Fixes All” crowd and nicknames for all engine makes). So let’s see how this turns out when you replace that “Krohler”. I do hope the “carbitrator” is nice and clean. By the way, you are so blessed to have all of those junk motors. I would love to have all of those for parts. I am 47 years old and have had a change of career and gone self-employed. I am slowly starting to build up a stock of broken or replacement engines but now I need some tractors and stuff.
