@@dukeofnyd1 just an occasional sloppy shift from 3rd to 2nd when quickly braking, but unfortunately that still happens even after the fluid change. Otherwise the maintenance was just overdue 💪
Thought you would never ask :'] ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tGlGJzU8ehM.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tVH_yscXDBA.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fUmXgkEsvbk.html
A nice one again! I actually have a similar (not exact) issue. For some reason the right headlight washer activates "automatically" (I can see residual fluid after I drive time to time), then I got washer fluid low warning even though I have not used it. I filled to the top, never used it, then get the warning light again - nothing on the garage floor. May be it slowly dripped on to the plastic undercover (I have not checked). Or may be the infamous sensor....any thoughts?
Good morning, if there's no puddle then the sensor sounds like it could be a culprit. Reasoning: You said there's no puddle, there would have to be a puddle if there was a real leak. First thing I would do is pull the wheel liner and see if the fluid is above the sensor line. 🫡
Thanks for this. I have to this today in order to replace my rear control Module. My seats are not manual, electric, so I am going to leave the battery connected until I get both bolts undone
Absolutely! They feel notchy at first but loosen up over time and feel super reliable. (gm!) Here's the link: flat6motorsports.com/products/numeric-racing-performance-shifter-cables-987-cayman-boxster
@@RuslanVideoFilms Did you ever change the right hydraulic strut ? and maybe you know location of strut fluid tank? my right strut has bad leak and I don’t know how to replace it
Davico brand, purchased from CarParts.com. I’m not sure if there’s enough space to do this on the V8, you will most likely have to do everything from below. Here’s a 10% off CarParts code, expires 10/01, in case you end up using the site (I got it in the email after buying mine): EMSD003L44JOC9V
Also, what other fixes / maintenance / upgrades would you recommend doing at the same time (since you are already accessing the engine bay & underneath rear-end)? 2006 987
honestly, there aren’t any pressing maintenance items. The air oil separator can be accessed from the top if you haven’t done that recently. That’s the biggest one. while the top is off, you can basically do anything else like maintaining the throttle body, but that’s a whole separate procedure.
@@RuslanVideoFilms Thanks! I didn't think about the throttle body - good tip! I haven't done the air oil separator yet. I thought that might be a good project to conquer at the same time! Luckly, I haven't had any major signs that the AOS is going out - but, while I'm there.... The shifting is pretty glitchy. I already changed transmission box fluid and realigned the shifter cables - but they had little effect. I'm hoping replacing the shifter cables will do the trick!
This is really excellent Video! It give me the confidence to tackle it myself. 😃 Ironically, I'm waiting until after our move from Florida to SC - and I saw your license plate. We are planning on moving to upstate SC. Where are you filming from? How is the weather for a boxster and working on your cars?!
I’m glad to hear and thanks for the kind words! Outside of Greenville, we love it, weathers great although this summer is killer. Where are you moving from, from Florida?
@@RuslanVideoFilms I'm glad to hear you're loving it in Greenville! Yes, we are in Central Florida and the Summers are KILLER. It's so humid right now, I can't even finish fixing my broken convertible top! We are looking at most areas around Greenville and Spartanburg. Hopefully, our house will sell soon! :)
And one other thing - I bought a car with some Aliexpress shortshift installed - do you think it could've caused or "helped" to cable break? (although cable break is common failure)
I don’t think so - the cables will resist lateral movements so I don’t think a short shifter can cause much additional stress. Might be wrong if somebody gets a short shifter really wrong though lol!
Great tutorial. My L2 R1 cable have already snaped so I'm considering if I'm able to do it... If i buy OEM cables, I assume calibration would be easier as I can adjust length directly on OEM shifter linkages? And btw., how can I support you - this video is very helpfull for me and I feel that "thank you" is just not enough :D.
Actually, on the 987.1 installing the numeric cables might be easier, because the OEM cables come with updated brackets that I would recommend doing research on. If you upgrade to numeric, you do not need to worry about the brackets because the numeric cables use the old 987.1brackets. that being said, you’re absolutely right, calibration will be easier. and you might be able to buy the original 987.1 shift cables with the original brackets and that would be a surefire way to minimize hassle liking and subscribing and the really kind comment is compensation enough ❤️
There are other center console removal videos where they are able to do it without needing to remove the PCM, the climate controls or the section of buttons below that.
Totally valid approach and thanks for sharing. The climate controls and buttons were removed to remove the storage bin without bending its tab down. You can remove the bin without removing the items above if you’re willing to bend your storage bin a bit. Taking out the climate controls and spoiler buttons takes 30 seconds or less.
I installed a new CarPlay Head Unit in my 05 Boxster S. It has the SPP (non-Bose) package with the amp in the frunk. I am getting sound from the door mids and dash highs. There are woffer speakers in the doors. I am not getting any sound from the woffers. Any ideas that will help me resolve this issue.
If it was working before, sounds like a wiring issue or issue with head unit not supporting those. Would double check wiring and contact manufacturer for help.
I forget. I sized up the drill bit so its solid part was the same diameter as the solid part on the camera’s bolt. Big enough for the “core” of the bolt, small enough so the threads grab
[TIPS & CORRECTIONS] [CORRECTIONS] #1: In the video the subtitle says to snip the clamp. It is metal. Remove the clamp using pliers, don't snip it and risk damaging the drain. [TIPS] #1 TO REMOVE THE CLAMP on the drain, use pliers. amzn.to/3KNx62N #2 IF YOU HAD A PUDDLE, you will most likely need to replace your cabin air filter, since it is possibly soaked. #3 BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE DRAIN, make sure you have lubricant on hand to reinstall it. Without lubrication it will not be easy to reinstall into the firewall. #4 BEFORE CUTTING THE DRAIN be aware that it increases the likelihood of bugs sneaking in. It's a decision of (1) risk of bugs vs (2) functional drain.
where does the vaccuum line from the tube flapper go to? I accidentally disconnected both the front and back flapper tubes and dont know where they go. theres two "changeover valves" which one goes where?
The larger changeover valve vacuum lines go to thinner lines that should be under the respective valves. Unfortunately, the best solution I can recommend is guessing which smaller line the larger lines get connected to - if you mix them up it will idle poorly and you'll get a CEL. I took a look in the parts diagrams but the closest I got to finding them is the parts diagram for the changeover valves and vacuum lines - didn't find what they connect to - part 17 - www.porscheatlantaperimeterparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=474594&ukey_product=3813225#9 I disconnected one of my flapper tubes too, on accident, but only one so it was easy to see which line it gets connected to ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gzuTL8Ymnrk.html
The fuse panel in driver’s footwell has (+) & (-) connection points to connect 12Vdc to power minor systems including the hood and hatch. Much easier than going through the wheel well. (provided you have a memory maintainer gadget or other 12Vdc power source) ALSO, don’t go without power for too long because the head unit can enter an anti-theft mode which requires its unique passcode to unlock. The previous owner did not provide said code and until I pull the head unit for its S/N I’m only hearing exhaust notes on my rides.
