After spending years working as a mechanic and then an engineer, I've found trades haven't always been as good as you could imagine, so I did it myself. I've built cars, aeroplanes and renovated houses. I plan to show you some of the things I do and explain why.
I'm also very passionate about Motorbikes and am planning several trips which I hope to share. I love travelling, so in my trusty camper I'll also be doing tours and posting for you..
Interesting - the budget pipe seems a little raspier on the recording...in real life, is there much of a sound difference between the pipe variations? And is this ok from a mechanical perspective? Seems like its blocking something that was previosly free flowing.
Hi, thanks for the message, the stock sound tube has a gasket internally that stops the flow and on the vehicles that don't have a stock sound tube, these have a block there, so no, not blocking anything. In real life terms, I personally prefer the other tube and metal ends, as the others sound too fake to me, however its a completely personal choice. There is definitely a sound difference in real life too. Is what ok from the mechanical perspective? the assembly or the budget pipe? I have been running a oem type with metal screw in end for over 2 years with no issues. Hope that helps. :)
@@davedoesit Thanks for the response! You answered my "mechanical" question which was pertaining to the flow. When you say you prefer the "other" tube, I assume you're saying you prefer the OEM style tube? Thanks for putting this kit together. Great timesaver for folks who don't want to spend hours tinkering and refining. I just gotta decide which tube for me and then I'll be ordering the no-nut LHD version for use in the USA!
I do prefer the oem style pipe personally, however I had to offer a budget version as someone else is selling that style. Funnily enough, not sold one yet tho!
@@davedoesit unfortunately, it doesn't look like you ship to Pennsylvania, US. So perhaps I do have to spend hours tinkering...or find this copycat ebay listing :(
@@andrewyeung7317 Apologies eBay has been a complete Pain in my A over the last week, something changed and my listing became a violation, now it's taken global shipping off... geese. I have put it back on now, let me know if it's not there. However, I have shipped to USA many times, so should be sorted. If you want to buy direct from me though, if it's cheaper, shipping is normally £14-18. All the best.
Hi, Thanks for your message, I have had 2 messages to say they struggled with fitting the nut to the LHD car, so I have designed a "push" in one. Not had any other complaints from the 100 kits Ive sold. Hope that helps!
Hey there Dave, I sent you a Message on Ebay, I would like to buy, but I own a 2017 1.5L ND Left-Hand drive with OEM-Soundtube for the Norwegian market?? Listening to the sound clips, I hear slight differences in tone/and artifacts or vibrations tranferring?? I prefer some of the cheaper option soundclips, *and your favorite Metal-adapter with a nut and oem pipe combo*?? Can you please Listen to the clips again? and please tell us, that it is the recording thats done or a not completely perfectly mounted pipe that screwed up the results somehow? Thanks in advance! You see I don't want *metal-ratteling sounds* transferred into cabin YUCK.. My 1st. choice for my 1.5L LHD car was the quality option with metal push-in adapter and OEM style pipe! but not now I am a bit uncertain "because of those rattling sounds" in some of the soundclips? Please advice?? Thanks RedMX5NorwayGuy
Hi, thanks for the message. Interesting... so the metal push in one is pushed into a rubber grommet, so is isolated. I'm not sure what rattling sounds you heard, however, I've got hard suspension, uprated arb, diff mounts and chassis braces. I also think I have a clunk from my suspension I can't find... however, for these videos the screw in adaptors weren't bolted down, the rest should were as fitted.. hope thar helps.. cheers
Dave Hmm , that's kind of intriguing? 😮 I Wish I could use *your favorite combo* 🤔 But because of the no need to use threaded nut due to dashboard access issues I am uncertain? 😯😳 The aluminium push in adapter and OEM style pipe Is probably the best solution, if it has a rubber-grommet between the chassis,and push-in adapter? is it mostly plug and play the rest of the install? Are there any revisions to the rubber glove solution? Is it a more engineered membrane cover now? With also a filter? Also the supplied supressor(sound reduction) does it sound the same just lower volume???? I have Goodwin Racing Roadstersport Super-street Single-Tip Exhaust, that will soon go on the car, and compliment its sound, so not sure if I will need to have the suppressor installed for the best soundballance??? 😂 I fear that my car will approch RACE-CAR volume next time I get everything installed.. Hopefully NOT, and it's a tolerable but kind of loud, atleast not stock/OEM.. 😅😅 Also, Could you please reply back on my Ebay message Dave?? Thanks in advance. 👍 Thanks RedMX5NorwayGuy
Hi Rune, I have replied on Ebay, strange if you haven't received it... if I were you, I'd go for the push in metal one. I attach a document on how to fit it, the oem part has a gasket on it, which I say peel off and add to this one, so extra protection there. Next fit this first before the exhaust to hear it, and as its a push in part, you can easily fit or remove the suppressor. I am envious of your exhaust, I wanted that one... The glove is long gone, a twin nitrile membrane is now stock and assembled, so you just fit the pipe and enjoy! Cheers!
Does the shock shield rub on the U section of the swing arm or does it stay clear as suspension rises/falls. I am concerned this may damage paint on swing arm
Hi, It certainly will, I have a stock intake and K&N filter, which does NOTHING.... haha... watch my other video (latest) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-padWSjqhua8.html and you'll hear the difference... Glove is old hat and gone now. Cheers!
@AntiHurdaci well, if you have my pipe which I engineered, you'd have a barrier in there, if your using something you've put together, I can't answer that. In my latest video you can see and hear the tubes...cheers!
cool, also an elise owner? where's the link to your store? just the different materials on the ends have noticeable difference in audio signature? how do the OEM-style compare to modifying the stock sound tube? any links to feedback from the mx5 miata community?
I used to be yes! Had about 5 over my time, however the mx I can just drive without the need or rebuilding it each time... haha.. I'm working on a store for the things I make, however for now you can buy direct from me or go on Ebay. As for the sounds, I think the oem style sounds more throttle body, the plastic ends sound fake. I've had the oem style on for about 2 years and I grin every time I drive.. As from the mx5 community, this went worldwide on there a year ago, which gave me a massive buzz. I've seen people say best mod for little money.. but... that's just me.. haha... cheers!
Hi, thanks, I don't have an ebay store either, haha, seems like I need to up my game... I've added a load of text to the details on the video now, and renamed it, they email and ebay address are in there. Bluenokesy is my ebay name. Cheers
Thanks for this. The only decent video I could find for replacing the middle roller. I also didn’t know about the screw behind the rear light 😮 👍😉 very helpful!
@@davedoesit stupid question, but what thickness ply did you use, see I've just noticed that the old ply I had in my van was 3mm thick, I've ordered 6mm and these fixings fly into the old 3mm , but don't get close in the 6mm. 😩
Hi, my panels were 5.5mm to 6mm, so unless the fixings you have are different to mine, you should be ok. only thing I did to help was chamfer each side and cut the ear slightly on the fixing. Cheers
@@davedoesit yeah I did see that you cut the point down. Mine seem to have been made for 3mm ply and I can't see any online that actually say they're for 6mm . The diagrams they've got don't display the measurement in-between head and thread. I've already ordered, precut boards (which didn't fit) , made my own panel with what seems to be the wrong thickness of ply and now this. This is beginning to break me 😂
I "think I still have a load of mine, so if you local to mk, i can give you them, or I can send. lastly I think the ones I ordered were from Harrisons trim. Cheers!
Hi, Dave! I'm waiting for a reply on my last 2 emails. I payed for the product and just a tracking number since then. Wanted to know how many days it usually takes for a shipping procedure. And I don't know if you send the product already...
Hi, the OEM style pipe is the one I have sold all across the world, the budget pipe is a cheap version, which is the same as another seller is now selling ( I think this is nasty personally ) this is the same for the end, you can have cheap plastic ( same as previous comment ) or the metal one that I designed and tested and have sold across the world. If your car has the sound tube on already, then the "no" for the 1.5 is the answer as you don't need the longer tube and the 90 degree adaptor. Hope this helps!
Mam ten drugi wariant błotnika o ktorym mówisz. Był kupiony z Ali za 72zl. Przejechal ok 1500km. Trzeba tylko użyć taśmy dwustronnej 3M lub Tesa i skrócić ok 10cm, bo ociera o wahacz.
I'll try to, I'm away for a bit. However, I routed it down the left side, through the oem wiring routing, which was a bit of a pain. My usb has now failed, so I have swapped it, new video coming!
Hi, it's an interesting subject, I spent months getting it right (for me) I'm now tuning to improve for you guys. The glove has now been replaced by a membrane, however, the glove has been on my car for well over a year and still going strong... cheers!
Thanks for the video! Really helpful. Any ideas if changing from the three cables to two on a new unit is reason to cause issues? Ive plugged in a new unit with 12v without a light in it (so only two cables) but no power.. anything come to mind why they wouldn't be compatible? Cheers
Hi, not teaching you to suck eggs, however, have you got the power and earth cables confused, If memory serves me, its either the grey or brown that is the lamp feed which is the one you dont want to connect. Simple multi meter check will confirm. However, did you check the part worked before you installed it? lots of AmaChina stuff is rubbish. Lastly it could be the fuse if you managed to touch the wires together when the car was on, its a 15A fuse in position 12, 3rd on in top right fusebox under the cupholder.
@@davedoesit thanks for replying man! Potentially faulty unit, have switched back to test old unit and re charger still works on that. It could be incorrect +/- on the new unit I suppose, I can't turn it as there's a grove in the plug so it only fits one way.. I'll try and figure if the new unit is faulty. Can't see any for sale with the light cable as well! I guess they gave up on that idea
Hi, bit confused by your light cable comment... Best way is to take the connector off the pins and fit the pins directly to the usb unit. however, to try it, get two wires, put one in the + and put on the + of the usb , then do the same for the - to the neg of the usb then try to see if it works. It may be that in using the plug onto the usb, you are getting the wires to the wrong places.
As in: I cant see any new cup holder units for sale that have three wires going to the lighter/charger. They all seem to have 2. But the original I took out, had three in it. Anyways, I'll see what I can figure out and let you know! Thanks for taking the time man @@davedoesit
Mine was a low level vehicle so didn't have electric windows or anything, so that's why I went for non MFA. However, if you are planning to upscale your clock to a later version or one with a screen in it, then you will need a MFA one. Hope that helps. Just remember, that if its a low level, you will need to change the BCM to a high level one to make it work. :)
thanks for this vid just got mine needing doing now and guess was... it's just past 35k in miles lol dont supose you can make and sell some of those cup tools or put up the dimentions to have my own made. i'm in coventry if your local to rent them hehe
Glad I could help, I am actually in Milton Keynes so not a million miles apart, if your down this way, we could do it, or I could lend you them... cheers
why you cut the two wires BEFORE the video ? what type of connector had ? and you should have done the video showing the disassembly and not just tell about it... next time?
Hi, no wires were cut in the installation, the only wires were put into a joining t-piece plug male and female. The connector was a male and female "T" ..... search for "2 Way-T Black Pin Motorcycle Electrical Wiring Multi-Connector 6.3mm Terminals". I have since changed the connector to a Roc+ waterproof usb as the one fitted failed. cheers!
Glad the video helped, unfortunately not no, however all I did was trim a bit off the USB lip so it fitted flush, on a corner (yes round things don't have corners, however you get my drift haha), then lightly touched the hole so the usb was a really tight fit (encase I wanted to return to a cig point) then connected the + and - to it. cheers!
Thanks so much for the video. Fitted a van x cup holder and it didn’t sit right with me cutting the cables so searched for a better way and found your video which really helped me out. The hardest part was getting the cigarette lighter to release from old unit as it was welded tight. I also had to file cigarette holder hole larger on van x and file base of ash tray cover to get it sliding smoothly. Finally I sprayed silicone spray on surfaces that are sliding and it slides in and out perfectly now.
Hi, i fitted a twin usb with a rubber boot, however, it has since failed, so ive replaced it with a Rokk+ Charge twin usb and designed a bracket to hold it on the handlebar bolts, ill try to put a video up today. i might sell the brackets, or the design to help you guys out.. cheers Dave
Yes, they worked perfectly, admittedly the old OEM repair was to replace the hub, however now we can just replace the bushes, so get them to do that, or if your local to Milton Keynes, I can do it for you!
@@davedoesit how much would you charge for replacing those if i take the hubs out or how much would you aks for lending the tool alone. Just picked up ND 2015 plate from Nottingham with 50k on the clock. DUring test drive did not notice nothing, checked if there is any play on the wheels but didnt find any issues. Two days later over a speed bump i noticed the knocking noise from the rear of the car thinking its the jack or something else lose in the boot but couldnt locate any lose objects. Its only when i sarched online for the knocking noise on the ND model i found your video. I am in Bedford btw. thanks
Hi, I won't be able to help you until after the 28th July, but only max 2 hrs mot massive... depends if you want me to order the bushes for you too. Best come meet me and I'll check it out then go from there if it helps?
Thanks for the message, the membrane is nitrile and if it splits (had mine on for over a year, no issues) then you would know straight away from the car hunting on idle. Only way it would be "sucked in" is if it wasn't fitted securely. Happy to explore other ideas, however its all about sound frequency passing through a non-pressure air barrier. Cheers
Thanks Dave I just received my tube. How do you get access to the cabin area where the nut attaches to? Is it necessary? I’ve been running without so far.
Hi, Glad it got to you safe! Hopefully you got the instructions too? The best way I found was poking a tool through the hole from the engine side then go searching for it. I haven't fitted mine either, its only there as belt and braces! Hope you love the new noise!
@@davedoesit I actually chose the MX5 over a C8 Corvette because there is no way to start a Corvette without waking my family and all my neighbors in the morning.
I went back to the original mirrors for now as they just worked (for my height) however I am still thinking of the doubletake mirrors, its just the money for them!
Many thanks! I will be checking them soon, just been too busy and when they need replacing Ill put another video up. As for the tool, I "may rent it out", or you can use some big sockets with a washer.
