Thanks for your videos - I am looking at either a used 2023 and new 2024 Aquila 32 Sport and I find your videos informative. I am curious, have you even wakeboarded or rafted with the boat? I think I may be able to use the cleats between the engines to raft and wakeboard. That being said, I am not sure what they are anchored to. So, really 2 questions: have you rafted or wakeboarded and how did you do it? Do you know what the cleats on the swim ladder area between the engines are anchored to and could they handle the weight/force of rafting or wakeboarding
This particular video actually covers where to hook the tow rope. It's a y configuration and yes it is connected to the swim platform cleats between the motors. I got with Aquila and they told me that it can actually hold the boat's weight so they are definitely strong enough for water sports.
And by the way, thank you for your kind comments. The 32 is an extremely versatile boat, which is why we bought it. You can do everything from water sports like you would any other ski boat and you can take the leisurely cruise for several days.
That, my friend, is an excellent question! What you need to do is make sure that the wire is rolled up neatly. To do that, you will need to let your lift all the way down and just keep coming for a little bit and then stop. Now, start the wind-up process again with tension on the wire so that it neatly wraps around the spool. Once you do this, there won't be any jumping around. Further, we have gotten used to stopping the lift a few inches before it hits the floor so this doesn't happen again. That is the cause.
Thank you for the reply. I have done both things you mentioned. I'll agree, stopping before touchdown on the floor is the best possible solution. But that's a guessing game. It seems to work fine for several times and then the issue returns. Probably needs a lower stop switch but I'm not sure how to put that into the system.
The problem I found is not with Marine Max in general, but the proximity of a Marine Max near your boat. You might check with them to see if you can have someone locally fix your boat, including an auto body guy and have them sign off on the warranty work. A lot of times, you can actually get an auto body guy to come to you.
Purchased the same wireless remote and when plugged in the motor beeps and hums? My motor from HF does not have the blue wire but it is a light brown. All other colors are the same
Sorry I'm not two mechanically inclined when it comes to these type of adjustments. Maybe you can give me additional information or it might be a great idea for an update video when space is an issue. Thanks for answering my question, I find your videos very interesting and informative thank you so much!
I did find another video that may help others with the remote wiring issue. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-br34AO4gQG4.htmlsi=fscXlj37kgHCieAu
I have the exact system you have but they changed the color code on the remote wires, it would be nice to know the wire color code on the motor. The newer version has Red,Black,White & Brown thanks for the cool setup idea, now to just get mine to work 😊!!
@@mikeh7256 👍 I’ve tried using the brown on mine in place of your blue wire but that didn’t work. I’ve found the schematic online but that doesn’t give the wire color codes. I’ll get it to work eventually and then add the color codes I’ve came up with when done, it may help others. Thanks 👍
@@waderambo460 I actually got better information off this video. It was all a help but with the wire color codes this one made more sense to me. I did get mine working after buying the relays, I also bought a plastic box to put it all in. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l330V8klkLU.htmlsi=LMFhflKyxN6h6gs5
Mike, I would like to thank you for putting these videos together for the Aquila 32. I have been searching high and low for video's that explain how the systems onboard work and I can't believe that Marine Max doesn't have any such videos. My wife and I live in Sunset Beach, NC and we are in the process of purchasing an 2020 Aquila 32 Sport from Florida. We are very excited and can't wait to cruise the ICW. Like you, we also own a Pontoon boat at our Lake House in Pennsylvania so this will be our first large boat. It took me over two years to actually get aboard an Aquila and I had to drive to Fort Lauderdale for the boat show back in Oct 2023. We had our sights set on the Aquila 42 at first but the cost was not going to work. We fell in love the the Aquila 36 but again those are over our budget, even the used ones are crazy expensive. I decided we needed to lower our expectations and that lead us to the 32 which will be fine and maybe down the road we can trade up. At least like you I will have the opportunity to learn everything about the 32 and get used to driving this thing around. I really enjoyed your video on the CZone system as ours is a 2020 and also lack a generator. You did a great job explaining how it works so I feel a little better. It will be a learning experience and I look forward to it. I'm in search of dock space down here right now and also looking at the SeaPen which I believe is a genius invention as opposed to having to bottom paint the thing every couple years. If you haven't seen them you should check them out. It raises the boat out of the water and allow you to clean the entire haul. Sorry for being so long winded and again thanks for taking the time to do these videos. If you and your wife every head down this way look us up. I'm on facebook.
Wayne, thank you so much for taking the time to send such nice comments. I knew up front when I created these videos that there wouldn't be a ton of views, but it could be or hopefully could be helpful to people who have either just bought or are looking at buying a new 32. I almost bought a 2020 and opted for the 21 because of the different seating configuration. One thing I would caution you about on the 2020 is the lowering swim platform in the back. Hopefully yours doesn't have it. They quit offering it because of all the maintenance issues. In the next couple of weeks, I'm going to release another video on upgrading from AGM batteries to a lithium bank. It's more than just a battery swap and definitely worth it! I did look at the seapen because I was keeping the boat at the house. Not sure if you've seen my latest video. I got a boathouse approved in Elizabeth City, NC and a 24k hydrolic lift from Sunstream. Yes, there will be a video on that! LOL. My boat came with bottom paint and I didn't want to paint it every year either so the best option was getting the hull out of the water. Some folks were concerned with getting growth on the Seapen system itself, because it stays in the water and your Hull doesn't get dry. Because of that, you can get osmosis contamination. Also , I'm in an area that can get two and 3-ft waves if the wind is right and I don't think it would perform well in my environment. The lift was super expensive, 40K, but it only takes a few seconds to deploy, has a remote and battery backup and has enough girth to lift a 36 out of the water if we get one in the future so there's that! LOL. The advantage with yours is that it doesn't care how much the boat weighs, so you will be fine getting at a larger boat in the future and using the same lift system. Again, you have no idea how much it means to hear that others are getting a benefit from my videos. If I get down that way, I will definitely look you up! If you get up this way, look me up! You won't need a b&b. Lol
These videos are great - keep them coming! I found them when searching for tips on the Aquila 32 SureShade and have found them all very useful. I had Aquila 32 Hull 007 - due to continuing issues with the swim platform, we traded for a 2022 Aquila 32. Aquila and MarineMax were great to work with to address that issue, as well as just this week addressing the SureShade issues.
I'm working with Hull number 12 so mine is early in the construction as well. No real problems here. I think they kind of got it right, but there is absolutely no orientation from anyone so I hope this is helpful to others as well. Thanks for commenting.
@@mikeh7256 Do you have the swim platform or had they fixed that by hull 12? I went out to get tubing and weatherstripping material today to address the canopy/cocktail leak and the rear SpureShade water incursion. Thanks for those tips!
@@jeffreycarr835 they had discontinued the automated swim platform in 2020, so mine is literally exactly like the 2024s are made today. Does yours have the drains installed in the Sureshade cylinder shafts?
@@mikeh7256 It does - plus they installed 2 more near the rear of the Hard top - although I can’t see where they drain. I installed the clear tubing in the forward holes today, the flex seal tape dam and the weatherstripping (my gap is much smaller than yours) - thanks for the tips! Also I learned several things from your C-Zone video!
I am looking at the 2200lb Vevor on amazon. The wired remote is different from the harbor freight in video. Any clue if wireless remote kit still work?
@@chrisholt6136 no, but a quick call to the vendor might help. Also, you might check online for some manuals for the unit. A lot of times it will tell you what wire does what
Help! I am planning my build like this but the only way I can mount the unistrut is on inside of 2 4x4 steel posts. So the channels of the unistrut would be facing each other. Will that still work?
What I would do is to take some wood and attach that to the steel posts and then attach the unistruts facing forward to those wood pieces. That will get to you exactly what I built
OK I have a question. Where I want to build this, the unistrut needs to be on the inside of a 4inch steal beam. So instead of the channel of the unistrut facing out to platform, they will face inward facing each other. Is that ok?
I just purchased the cobra siege 300 with magazine And I was looking for a cheaper alternative for the 7.5” bolts The siege uses the same bolt as the adder but the tips are 125 grains an a touch longer
I have watched this video a lot and have built my own lift into the storage room above the garage. Unfortunately, I can't get the wireless remote to work. The only difference between yours and mine is that I bought a Pittsburgh hoist that can handle 2000lb. I wired it exactly the same but it just makes a loud noise when I push the up and down button. Looking for any suggestions I can get.
Initially, I had to give up on the wiring so I broke down and hired an electrician to help so I didn't burn down the house. My wife would have never forgiven me! Lol Sounds like you're at that point...
The red bolts are now available cheap. If you shoot them a couple times, the tip will come loose. You are then at liberty to modify them. I’ve added mechanical broadheads to them. They work well but are expensive, and though the Adder is powerful those mechanicals only penetrate a few inches into meat before getting stuck. So now I am buying the 6.5” bolts with screw-in mini broadheads, and taking them apart and using the mini broadhead in the red arrow. There are companies actually selling those broadheads pre-installed in the red arrows, but those arrows are nearly a half inch too long to fit in the Adder!
Well done video and built one very similar just a bit smaller. But I can't get the remote to work both ways, just down. I've followed the learning button process to the "T" (several times) but still just one way. AND, with the two remotes, once I program one, it forgets the other (it stops working). I wired the motor exactly as you have here, as mine is the same winch. Anyone have insight on this?
Unstructured is kinda expensive. Being said as it's not needed for strength. The hoist is your strengh.why not use garage door channel and wheels? Also I would use lag screws everywhere but in those unistruts.
hey any way you could show the hoist wiring so i know what cable going into the wireless unit does and where they come from? my four wires are different colors. thanks
I can only show what I bought and was able to figure out. I ended up sitting down next to the unit, attaching some wires and testing. That's probably my best recommendation to you. Best of luck!
Hi 👋, I found this very helpful and interesting, as I have and live in Moulin/Mill in France , 4 floors, As I need to get logs from my basement to my lounge and attic, for my heating, great territorial, thank you very much appreciated, I think I might be starting this within the next week or so, just got to locate all the components, Phil from the moulin.
Hi 👋, thank you for the reply, I will definitely try, 😂, I was going to build a decking off the side of my property, Somewhere between four and 5 m up, and I was going to build a jib into it, that would swing out, so I could then lower a pulley down to pick up a basket of logs, or even my groceries, so I could then bring them up to my kitchen dining room, and lounge, The layout of my property is a bit strange, I’ve got a basement, then I’ve got my bedrooms bathrooms et cetera, and then I’ve got my lounge kitchen diner, then the attic, But because of certain circumstances , one being burgled, and losing some special cutting machines to cut through walls, and secondly, I’ve just had an ongoing battle with my ex, Great having to chat, stay safe I’ll try and tell you if I get it all sorted within the next month or so it might be a little bit longer, Phil from the moulin.
Can't thank you enough for the details on the wireless remote! This was PERFECT for my home project. One note I thought I would add on here, you can wire everything like in the video, but ALSO wire back in the wired remote to the same wires and be able to use it along with the two wireless remotes. Total of 3 remotes (2 wireless and the original wired). Figured that could come in handy for someone else here or spare them from having to get a third wireless remote if they wanted a remote in several spaces.
I bought the AR Stinger because I had reservations about the adder. You can buy 6.5” bolts that are non proprietary and they work without any issues. I’ve been going back and forth about whether to pay for the adder, but it looks like it would be more practical to get the R9 and install the magazine from up-bolt that allows you to shoot 15” bolts , and replace the 90 lb limb with a 170 or 190 lb limb. I believe Joerg has a video on how to add a magazine onto the R9.
You have no idea how nice that is. One alteration from the video is that I switched it back to the factory settings so that you press it once to make it go up without having to hold it down. Saves batteries.
other than typical safety concerns the main thing I noticed was lack of doubling up the 2x beams / joists where you cut the floor... .and lack of joist hangers on the cut beams, which have been required for decades now. Any time you cut a joist and transfer load, that next beam needs to be doubled up. You also need to support the floor all the way to the edge. Plywood edges without a 2x under it is asking for trouble.
Mike; Question. Where did you put the 16-20 uF capacitor for starting the hoist motor?? Did you just delete it, or is it somewhere else? I'm doing the same mod to my ATV stacker.
I assume you're talking about the jumper pin. Originally, I moved the pin from the factory position to get momentary reaction. Later I found out that it ate batteries pretty quickly. Recently, I put the pin back in the factory position so that it was toggled. Just leave it in the toggle position. Read my comments that I posted a month ago. It's very important on the downward momentum. Especially with heavier loads, the downward motion doesn't stop immediately, but comes to a stop. Go to about 16:20 in the video.
@@mikeh7256 hey Mike, thanks for your reply. I was talking about the large motor start capacitor that is in the handle of the hand controller. It takes up most of the volume of the controller. Other remotes I have looked at use large high voltage high current AC relays to do the motor supply voltage switching, and the wireless remote controller to supply the trigger voltage to the relays. They installed the large start capacitor at the relays up next to the motor. My setup may be different from yours, I'm not sure.
@@JohnnieBravo1some hoists have the capacitor in the remote handle mine and Mikes has it in the black box attached to the motor. Depends on what hoist you bought, I believe they are built different.
Agree, you DO NOT need to snip any plastic to remove the cover. Just remove the rear center armrest/cupholder (easy to do) and that makes enough room to pull the cover out. There is a video on how to remove this on RU-vid by a guy named NorseVikiing. Just search center console Mercedes SL and it should pop up. Another note on the battery, make sure you get a battery that has the correct type/placement of the terminals. I bought a Super Start replacement battery from O'Reilly and the terminals didn't line up so the little pivoting cover would not close over the battery. Off to the MB dealer to get an original, at least it was only $10 more. Hope that helps!
Upgrade your center lifting eye bolt to a "shoulder eye bolt". The shoulder is just under the eye. That way, the nut on the bottom has the shoulder to tighten against. The one you bought can't be tightened meaning that it will always be slack. How does this elevator stop at the lowest end of its travel? You should install a limit switch down there too. Lastly, and I'm sure everyone has been saying this, you need a hand rail on the sides and front. the front one could hinge at the floor and then fold down to make a handy ramp. The fold-up ramp should have a limit switch such that the elevator won't run unless the ramp is raised and latched into place. Even if this is just a freight elevator, you still should at least have a lip on the 3 exposed sides to prevent the load from shifting and sliding off.
Great ideas! On the lower limit switch, I haven't figured that one out yet. When going down and I press the stop manually, it simply slows down and then comes to a stop. It's not immediate like the one going up.
Have you thought about making these arrows for ppl & selling them yourself you could turn it in to a business some ppl dont have the stuff to make them & i would definitely be interested in buying them from you
