I try to make videos that are either informative/educational or just plain fun. I draw inspiration from my main hobbies of Toyota 4x4's, Motorcycling, Skiing, Climbing, Cycling, archery, camping, etc. This channel page, video details, and comments may contain Amazon affiliate links. If you use one of those links to visit Amazon and end up buying something, the channel will receive a small commission paid by Amazon, no extra cost to you.
Assuming my column A has a whole year spread out in 15min intervals, meaning for example one day has like around 100 lines, and a month 3000 lines roughly. How do I find out where one month starts and ends, and then mark the data of the month to lets say make a graph (it's got 3 whole columns of data, A: date, B: minute, C: Value for graph)
Does the slave have anything to do with the clutch not getting it into gear? Most posts say it has to be leaking to replace it. Mine is original to my 86 4wd and does not leak. Replaced Clutch MC a few times but never the Slave. Thks...jc
The slave cylinder pushrod pushes on the clutch fork to disengage the clutch from the flywheel on the back of the engine. If the clutch isn't disengaged and you try to shift, unless the rpms of the engine line up with the spinning of the transmission (rpm shifting), you'll grind the gears trying to shift. Block the wheels, crawl under the truck, and have someone work the clutch and you should be able to visually see if the clutch slave cylinder is moving the clutch fork. If you have air in the system, the air will compress before the clutch fork is moved by the slave cylinder pushrod. The rod should move immediately when the clutch pedal is depressed.
Hi Pete this is Laura 86 22r it’s dark I’m stuck no tools crept Phillips screwdriver carb is flooding took air horn off blew out needle valve seat still flooding any advise ASAP?
Are the floats still working? I had a float once get a little pin hole in it and fill with gas and sink to the bottom effectively keeping the flow of gas wide open into the bowl. Saw this also on another video comments section and I echo it: "Too much gas in the bowl is a condition of one or more of four possible failures, float set too high, floats leaking, or float needle stuck open, or the needle seat is worn. On most carbs it is either the 3rd or 4th condition that causes a bowl to overfill. While the first two conditions should never be ignored, those two conditions are the less likely of the four."
Hey brother. As a fellow RU-vidr, I just want to say thank you! You did an excellent job of confirming what I was thinking to try. I believe I’ve got an internal leak on a 1968 Cougar and I’m trying to deadhead the system to pinpoint the area of failure. Thanks!
I’m gonna use this idea to make a female “cap” style as well. You rock! I subscribed to your channel. Since you’re a Toyota guy you may appreciate this; 20 years ago I got to occasionally apprentice under John Brekke at John Elway Toyota. He was the Toyota National Champion in 2002. Thanks again.
Fantastic you have coincided with your 9 year old brilliant video and another Aussie doing a video on the ' New ' LCC27 something you US guys have had for so long, the internal thread is our saviour . Have for 1 year re-filling camping gas sized cans and have saved an fortune similar to your excellent demo. Have learned a lot, you have crammed a whole lot of safe and valuable info into my cranium which is a major feat. Many Thanks.
I tried this set up and it mess with thin sheets. I'm wondering if using a high capacity rheostat will controll the amperage coming out of the battery.
@WheeliePete THANK YOU!!! Getting ready to install some CV axles on a '98 Tacoma. Hopefully my OEM axles are not "damaged"... inner boots are broken and I don't know how long they have been? Not too long I know that much, but still. Anyways, I really like the parts layout and just EXCELLENT teaching on how to reassemble and test. Subscribed to your channel and keep up on the excellent work. I've never worked on manual locking hubs before and this video is just superb!!!
This is such a great how to. Couldn’t if anything clear on the web about how to rebuild these lock in hubs till I seen this. Definitely will be showing other people
This cracks me up! I just inherited my grandpa's truck a couple years ago the horn didn't work when I first got it and I took it apart and found a .22 shell and thought it was so funny and clever how he Jerry rigged this thing. I just put a new .22 shell back in there and it still works like a champ. Then I find this video today. I'm dieing😂 Unbelievable.. LMAO..
I knocked my trigger rotor out of alignment (I think) because it doesn't align with the rotor now - its about 20 degrees counterclockwise. It looks like it should be directly aligned with the rotor. I also have a "paddle rotor" on the shaft directly above the 4 paddle triggering rotor that's alingned with the rotor. It doesn't serve any purpose I can see except to help align the triggering rotor below it...?? Its a 93 Toyota pickup.
Do you have any suggestions for not loosing all your fluid while you are waiting weeks for your new calipers to show up? Any cool brake line plug ideas?
I have seen numerous ways of doing this in RU-vid. Including using the starter, which i am reluctant to do. But this method seems to be the way it is supposed to be done. Thanks for uploading this. Glad i found this video!
Hey WP I just watched your video on locking hubs and subbed now I see this and wanted to tell you that I currently own Tuki. I have seen this video before but its cool to see it after watching another vid to help me. Rick is a great mechanic and guy from what I can tell and thanks for the help.
Rick's a good dude. He's not on the internet much any more, but he's working on another killer project for a snow wheeling rig. I'll try to get him to let me film it when he gets done.
Hey brother. 2001 KLR650. I touched the thermo switch wire to the engine and the fan did not turn on, but it did spark where it was touching, and it did blow the 10a fuse by the relay that I just replaced. Removed the fan from the bike and connected current via leads from the battery directly into the plug- it spins. Would it still spin if it was shorting in the fan? Performed a continuity test on the relay with a multimeter and the relay seems to be operational, I hear it click when connected to current and the resistance drops when activated- though previous owner replaced relay with an aftermarket version with a higher amperage rating. I’m guessing I have a short- everything seems to be operational just the fuse blows and the fan won’t turn when it is supposed to. Any ideas?
