In 2021 I decided to make a conscious shift to spend my time working toward a new life goal inspired by my great grandfather. On my living room wall sits a hand made violin, built by George Beyer, a humble carpenter who spent his free time pursuing a craft and his passion to become a luthier. He fixed and built instruments with a focus on the violin, dreaming on one day having a world renowned violinist play one of his instruments on the world's biggest stages. While that dream never came true, his passion to bettering his skills inspires me to do the same. To build the best woodwork I possibly can to inspire a future generation of people to follow in my footsteps, pursue their passion and build their craft.
I disagree, that's like saying you should only use a forstner bit when drilling a hole for a doorknob in a door, that's typically done with a hole saw. This is a 2 inch hole which is pretty darn big for a forstner bit, especially handheld which was a requirement given the size of these desk tops. There's no way I could have wrestled them onto the drill press and used a forstner bit.
Even tho he succeeded with the hole he definitely should have started from underneath essentially guaranteeing no mistakes… I’m a cabinet maker, qualified to shit on this technique.
Shit as you wish, you're probably right. I was placing the grommet so any minor issues would have been avoided, but your method would avoid major issues too
If you want a truly clean 90 hole. Cut a smaller hole smaller than what it needs to finish at. Use a rabbeting bit in your router to get the final diameter the hole. Subtract double the rabbeting bit from your final dimension. Flip the table over and use a flush trim bit to clean out what the rabbeting bit didn’t get. Viola. Perfect clean whole and the edges are 90 degrees to the surface.
See, I'm not sure I agree with this. The rollers do pull the board through but the planer blades are going the opposite direction and can easily throw a board back at you. So with this way, you're relying on your rollers to be stronger than the motor's torque and blades digging into your board. That's why the traditional way has the fence on the back of the sled. Always better to have the sled "backwards" and use hot glue. Makes it way safer in the long run. But that's just my two cents! (And most other woodworkers)
The thing is you are always relying on the rollers to stop the cutter from kicking the board back so this is not different from the way you would typically operate a planer. The force of the rollers is working in your favor to keep the board moving forward and the shims in place.
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking that's a good point! What is stopping the work piece from shooting out using the planer normally? haha What about a drum sander? Same concept right?! 🤔
@@Voicesofjake the rollers of the planer keep the workpiece moving forward. It can shoot back if your piece is too short and can't engage at least one roller, which is why they usually say min length of 12 inches. A drum sander has the base that is sand paper and works as a conveyor belt to move the piece forward. Btw, thanks for the comments and finding my videos. I've seen your videos, they always make me laugh!
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking I just always thought with such force from the planer blades, you'd want a back cleat and not front. But it makes sense! But also the other way too sorta.. haha I just ran a warped cherry board through my drum sander and I had the cleat on the back. I think if I didn't, it would've pushed it off the sled. Since the sled was slipping on the conveyor belt too. (Fixed that with some spray rubber on the bottom of the melamine.) But that's great to hear! Thanks dude! I'm really getting into wood working now and love learning and watching all the recommended videos RU-vid throws at me! haha
10 дней назад
You are a savior! What kinds of chemicals can be used when alcohol is not available? IPA? I saw acetone in the comments. Gasoline?
Acetone would work but it's harsher. By IPA I think you mean isopropyl alcohol which would work just fine. Mineral spirits would probably work too but I haven't tested that. I wouldn't use gasoline as it might penetrate into the wood and cause issues with finish later.
It's all relative. The first time I ever made a picture frame it was tough and I messed it up in more ways than one. This is the method I use now after figuring it out. Hopefully this video gives you a good starting point to make a few less mistakes than I did when you make your picture frames.
I was also about to cut a circle when my router wouldn't turn on. Since I bought it on Craigslist, I thought it was toast. I followed your suggestion and it worked! Thanks!!
You've got to make it two tiers or it doesn't count. I challenge you to build a 2 or 3 tier lazy Susan. 2 tier using 3 poles on outer diameter. 3 tier or 4 tier with 1 pole in the middle. OR a lazy Susan that hangs from the ceiling that looks like a wedding cake suspended in the air
I did enjoy watching the video. The reason for looking up these videos was I’m going to build a display case for my great granddaughters princess Diana doll, it’s huge so I need a good case for it. I’m new at woodworking so I watch videos to get an idea of the project I’m going to build. Good luck and God bless on your future Projects.
How do you make the tenon width match the width of the mortise? It seems like it would be very difficult to dial in the blade height exactly, especially making the tenon centered. Is there a trick? I have never attempted a M and T joint because I could never figure this part out. This is what I was hoping the video would show. Thanks.
That's a good question. First thing, use a scrap piece cut off your rails that is the same thickness as your work pieces. Next, measure the distance from the edge of the board to the mortise, that's how high your blade should be. Set the blade to that height, but undershoot it a little. Cut the tenon on the end of the test board and test the fit, it should be too big to fit. Raise the blade slightly and trim the tenon but cutting both sides of the face until it fits. If you overshoot it and the joint is too loose use the other end of your test piece and lower the blade slightly. Once dialed in cut all your work pieces and they'll all be perfect. I'll show this process in an upcoming video, I usually glaze over the details otherwise people get bored and don't watch the video
Yep, I don't typically do this type of thing. I did use epoxy instead of wood glue on purpose. The entire top piece was plastic and wood glue would not have stuck
Painters tape, and if you're going all the way through painters tape both sides and a piece of wood sacrifice to put underneath the piece you're drilling. But you really don't even need to worry about blowout for grommets because they're supposed to overlap the hole anyway covering imperfections anyhow
Exact reason, exact problem. Had to go to Home Depot to get longer bit. Wondering if there is any prevention mechanism we can use like using a tape just to seal off the switch
For that kind of work you may: Clean up the glue (as you did) Fil up the dowels holes on the two parts Check possition first Put a small nail in the center of each assembly and cut it to let ~4/64' protruding Place the broken part ,now you have your center hole/mark Drill at your dowel size as far as you can or comfortable with,on both part Make a test assembly, If there is (very often) a small adjustment needed , drill one size up un one of the brokem part until it fits, As for the glue, as for restauration work we often us reversible glue such as animal hide and bone mix or fish glue but any glue tha can fill and dry in a "gaping" joint will be fine (epoxy) Have fun 🙂 , A random cabinet restorer
Is there really a limit to how high a stool can be? Could I put one end of a barstool at the bottom of the kola superdeep borehole and the other end as tall as the materials budget will allow? Would it still be a stool? Even if it was impossible to sit on? Or see the top or bottom of the stool? Are guywires a normal part of bar stools? How about aircraft warning lights? Sorry, my sleep meds aren't working tonight, I'm kinda out of it.
I would have temporarily glued the parts back together, then cut them apart so the two faces matched and glued them back together with the dowel like I did but this time there wouldn't be any seams to fix
I mean, 🤷 dont get me wrong, a fix is a fix as long as it holds. Nobody said it had to be pretty. But my biggest question, honestly pure curiosity, why a two part epoxy instead of the standard wood glue and dowels? It would have saved you at least a few minutes of finishing work with the whole blending attempt. The chip could have just been filled in with some wood filler or really fine sawdust and CA glue for a perfect matching fill in with only minimal sanding.
Thanks for the great question. It's hard to explain everything and make a compelling short video. The reason for the epoxy is because the back of this stool wasn't wood, it was molded plastic. Wood glue wouldn't have stuck. Also, the wood isn't wood, this whole thing was wrapped in some type of plastic veneer that looked somewhat like wood so no ability to sand, also no matching sawdust. I did end up filling the gaps and chips with filler and then blended the whole thing to get a color to match. When asked to fix this my plan was to do what you suggested but I had no idea the chair was mostly plastic and had to pivot.
It's the Base Camp Pro M dust mask. I'm not sure if links work in a shorts comment but I'll try, it's affiliated but I do really like this mask, I talked about it in my latest long form video where I make a gate. bcmask.com/?ref=keatonbeyerwoodworking (use keaton10 for 10% off your order)
You seem very interactive with your comments, so I'll ask: why is this a stool and not a chair? Where is the line drawn? Is it in the use of the object, or simply a nominal title for the device given by it's maker?
Thank you for a very reasonable question. I know it doesn't look like it in the video but this is a counter height stool with a back. Sitting on it your legs can't reach the ground whereas chairs you sit and your feet touch the ground. But it does look like a chair with the back but I and most furniture stores would consider it a stool given it's height. It's a bar stool.
@@keatonbeyerwoodworking then I would say a stool is a chair-like platform of an unusual height. Foot stools are like bar stools because they are different in height from a chair. Are there stools the same heights as chairs?
@keatonbeyerwoodworking thnx, I was about to say interesting vernacular, where did you grow up? Assuming it was a colloquial word. Glad perspective was the reason. Phew!
Took me a while to figure it out. I used to do way more math and get it wrong half the time until I figured this formula out and now it's super easy, especially since it's based on the artwork and the size of your frame pieces so the picture always fits.
Good question, the upper curved piece was completely made out of molded plastic and wood glue wouldn't stick to it so I needed something different. On top of that, the original joint was pretty loose and the dowel they used was pinned in place with nails. I wanted to fill all those gaps so my new dowel had some structure to hold on to and epoxy does a much better job at filling gaps.
Good question, the upper curved piece was completely made out of molded plastic and wood glue wouldn't stick to it so I needed something different. On top of that, the original joint was pretty loose and the dowel they used was pinned in place with nails. I wanted to fill all those gaps so my new dowel had some structure to hold on to and epoxy does a much better job at filling gaps.
Good news is it's easier than it seems. Big mortise and tenons, a groove, which you could normally cut at the table saw with a dado stack, and cutting panels to fit. Seriously, practice by making some cabinet doors and it really was the same process, just bigger. Oh, and the most important part is straight, flat lumber which makes everything easier. You got this! And thanks for the subscribe!
Beautiful door Keaton! Approximately how much did it cost to build? Today I was quoted $15 a board foot for 2x6x8 clear vertical grain western red cedar. So each board is $120! I almost fainted.
My cost between wood and hardware was $430, wood being $330 of that. This type of cedar is expensive but I definitely overbought. I did have 2 2x6x10's and 9 tongue and groove boards which were 3/4x6x10
Would you mind sharing your supplier for the quarter sawn cedar? I live in the PNW as well, south of Portland and I am having a hard time finding quality clear cedar. Thank you very kindly. Great project, and your craftsmanship is awesome. Thank you.
I picked this up at Building Material Resources in Sherwood. They have some but their stock tends to vary because they sell a lot of reclaimed materials but usually have cedar in stock.
