Nice informative video, thanks. But when you're sanding, you should always try to use a flat surface. You could end up with grooves, curves or radiuses where you don't want them, just a tip. Nice work, keep it up:) PS: This is nothing against you, but I do have a personal gripe against crushed and bent tubes of stuff xD just start rolling from the back, then you get to use it all:) Edit: Had not come to the point where you described sanding blocks. Sorry. Love your work.
Do you directly paint over the Bright Metallic spray paint or use a clear coat? If you do prefer a clear coat, which have you found is most compatible with the Rust-oleum?
There is not a cheap or easy way to get a metallic finish, and Rustoleum (and all can metallics) will dull with clear coats, and masking tape and masking fluids will also dull it. The way I get those is with airbrush metallics (Alclad chrome is cheaper but works great, but the examples shown were Alumaluster). Those metallics will also dull with standard clear coats, so they need a 2-part 2K clear, which I mix and airbrush on with an HPLV gun. It's not easy, and takes a lot of work to prep, but its really the only way to get a reflective metallic like that ready to coat with paint for chipping.
I keep start and stopping my first project which is a full mandolarian armor. I got the full suit like 70% and just was taking forever. I wish I had this video 2 yrs ago. I going to get it another try now.
I tried this method on my tank for the tank of my SlimeBlower from Ghostbusters 2. I had some kind of failure in the seams but only on the seams that were facing up and most recently painted with 2x1 primer and filler. I’m wondering if I need to rebondo with 100% bondo and then spray it again? I have pics if needed to reference.
Hey man this is a really informative video but please wear a respirator when working with bondo and acetone and dry sanding, you’re gonna burn a hole in your lung
while I do agree with PPE for many things, a standard dust mask is fine for sanding Bondo. Acetone will not “burn a hole in your lung” in any way. according to the NIH, repeated industrial long exposure to acetone can be a mild irritant to the lungs (and reduced exposure reverses any effects), but that is after weeks of 8 hours shifts. this article documents many of their test results. You are welcome to use a respirator, but I only am exposed for 30 minutes on occasion a month apart, which is well below that danger for mild irritation: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK590387/
Everyone in the US uses Bondo for covering lines - here in Europe you can´t buy it regulary. Why not using wood filler - it is also not chemical you don´t need gloves or masks.
This may be a very long video, but it showed me perfectly how to get smooth parts. I'm so going to invest in all items shown here. Thank you very much! New subscriber, and bookmarked the video for future reference! Keep up the good work.
I haven't tried it, but the issue may be with paint interaction. I know contact cement sort of dissolves paint, and that may be true of Rubber Cement. You can try it, but latex masking fluid is not expensive.
A few questions: 1) Can wet sanding be done since the beginning, in order to avoid too much dust and preserve the sanding paper (i.e. with 120 sandpaper), or does it work only with higher numbers of sandpaper (i.e. 400 and above)? I have started with a dry 120 and it did barely do anything at all, but the print was not too smooth. It is just a test prototype... 2) Can the protective tape be masking tape, or does it have to be thicker/more protective? Did you remove it by just pulling it up, or did you have to use more caution (like a cutter) in order to prevent more stuff coming off? 3) did you sandpaper also the "future velcro parts areas" before putting tape on them, or did you leave them raw PLA and just put the tape on them? 4) Did you do any work (sandpaper/putty/primer/paint) on the inside (not the edges) or did you leave it raw PLA? Thank you for the precious video!
Great questions! 1- You can wet sand at any stage to avoid dust, as long as the paper is waterproof (it usually says "wet or dry" if it is okay to use wet). 2- Masking tape works great to protect it. Because of so many layers of paint on top, I used a blade to cut the edges of the tape before peeling it off. 3- I did not sand those areas, raw PLA is great to glue to. 4- I usually do not finish the inside of helmets, but some props do need finishing inside, like a recent rigid backpack build I did, because the inside is meant to be seen.
Ive been researching many ways to finish many sizes of 3d prints. This tutorial is easily the best and most efficient method ive seen for large prints. Thank you so much, cant wait to get started on this method. I just need my large printer to arrive!
Thank you for a great video! I am making a slime blower from Ghostbusters 2 and I am about ready to use this method on the tanks! Can't wait to see the results!!
Tweaking your slicer settings will get rid of those print artifacts. Also, try using random seams instead of aligned seams. I hardly have to do anything in terms of post processing because I took the time to optimize filament, layer, support and quality settings.
I do not have a filament printer, I purchased these prints. But based on the feedback to this video, clearly most people have to post-process prints to get a smooth surface, regardless of artifacts. The thigh plate had no artifacts, but still required filling.
Purely hypothetically speaking... let's say you used one of your wife's nice bowls to mix this stuff in. How would you go about cleaning it? Asking for a friend.
Great tutorial! I learnt a lot throughout the 4 parts. As far as diffusing LEDs, have you considered using LED foam (Plastazote LD45)? I haven't used it a whole lot, but so far, it works great for me!
I appreciate how you not just explain key points but also demonstrate (e.g. acetone effect on solo cup). These nuances set your video far above others. Well done!
Absolutely love this. It’s these additions that can make or break a starwars ambiance. I’ve used adhesion promoter I believe rustoleum makes it. Really helped with the cases I’ve been doing.
the idea is that it fills the valleys, and you sand down to them. usually it is more red than print, but it does peek through at times. it may be that you need a few more coats to fully cover it, and sand only enough to get it smooth. filler primer will usually fill a bit, as well as reveal the true texture
@OddViking I did only do two coats the first time and I guess I was a little heavy handed on the sanding. I re-applied 3 coats and ill go a little easier with the sanding on round two
the water in wet sanding basically become like lubricant, it make the sanding more smoothly, and the grid come down a little too, but I agree, it keep dust away, making it more effective and literally smoothing out the sand, making you you less likely getting scratch on your primer, hence smoother finished, also this channel is super underrated
One of the best start to finish... finishing videos I've found. A good friend is printing me a full size 40k chainsword, and it will be my first attempt at this type of finishing and painting. I will be rewatching this several times in preparation. Any tips or videos you could point me at for painting small details that will require brush work? This is also something I've never done.
That sounds like a great project! For brush painting, I don't have any suggestions for that. I came to this hobby with a past as an illustrator, so brush painting was always something I could already do.
I haven't met a anyone in the 501st acting like that yet, I've had great experiences with all the 501st members I've met, I'm joining because of them, I agree with your response.
Hey man, love your work, looks really awesome. I wanted to say, have you heard of Protopasta? They have a filament that has actual metal powder fibers in it and you can actually sand and buff it to get an actual shine on the print. You can even have it naturally patina. Check it out if you haven’t seen their stuff.
I'm wondering how you made the Rebel Endor Helmet? I've always wanted one :) I have stl files for the doughnut, just not sure where to get the WWI/WWII pilot hat?
they are on EBay, and while some are pricy you can find them sometimes for $80 or so. most common are medium ones, and large was tight on me. then you have to add the ribbed top and leather corner flaps
