Thank you so much for this video. A lot of guys who paint in the community are so snarky about sharing any sort of techniques and how to do them. It’s so nice to finally see someone explain it.
Your videos are so helpful, I feel like my weathering has improved so much since watching your tutorials. Could you make a video about how you add texture and depth to your paint jobs? I notice in a lot of close-up shots of your props and armor that you have some really great bumps and ridges in the paint, or in your paint chipping tutorial it looks like the big chip on the Bo Katan helmet has some real depth to it and I'm not sure how to replicate that. I've heard you mention something about a tape ball, but I'm not sure what that is and I couldn't find anything about it online. Love your videos, if you had a full prop-making course I'd pay to attend!
I really should, you are right. So the technique is one ai learned from Island Fett, and he has a RU-vid video showing it. But I should do one with all of that. I have some examples of that layering on my Instagram account’s build posts, so you can look there to start.
For soft cloth parts, I use way watered-down acrylic, using a spray bottle of plain water to soften any edges of marks. it always looks way too dark, but then dries and looks too faint. layer it up slowly, and wear it if possible to hit things like elbows and knees on the right places. Then I usually follow that up with some fullers earth powders. I also like using “Otter Wax” to get a greasy look on the edges.
I don't apply clear before this, but I do after. I have had no reactions from the ipa. I scrub and dab at the ink, no effect on spray paints or my (dry) acrylic wash weathering.
This looks brilliant. I'm creating my first weathered, Fallout inspired, 3d printed box (12 inch long) for a prop I need . I've been using spray cans so far and I don't have an airbrush. I'd love one but not sure how much use it would get to warrant the investment in all the kit needed. So, I was wondering whether something approximating this effect could be done with spray cans and rubbing alchohol? I'm going to try applying a fine dust of black that I have lying around onto olive drab base and then the fine mist of rubbing alcohol. Do you have any thoughts on the approach?
I don’t think alcohol would be a solvent for spray paint. I have heard you can get this look with Naptha on oil paints (brushed on thin, not from an airbrush).
@@OddViking It didn't work. I've had a little more success with water drops on first then spray a colour, wait a few mins then wash off. But it's not great. I may try your method but with just fine mist spray bottles instead of an airbrush. One question - do you let the initial airbrush layer dry before the mist coat that causes the effect? Thankyou
Instead of using a cloth to remove excessive weathering have you thought of using a Sea Sponge? Taking advantage of the texture of the sponge…which in its own way creates texture
It absolutely could be used, but I find I have better control with rags. Sometimes the sponge adds too much texture, and I am most often using the rag to remove excess texture. But I haven't tried it with this, so it is worth trying out.
Hi! Thanks for the video. You say airbrush thin layer of copic, and then spray via spray bottle the copic again again. Why do you need to airbrush? Are you saying do both? Or one OR the other
No, the copic is sprayed in a very fine even coat with the airbrush (the ink is usually thinned with more alcohol in the airbrush pot). That layer is so soft, fine, and even that you can't really see it easily. Then you use a spray bottle to mist it with alcohol, and compared to the airbrush, this creates much larger mist and those spots of alcohol instantly dissolves the ink to create the speckled spots.
no, I seal it after. the alcohol doesn’t appear to affect the acrylic at all. I know it can be a solvent for it, but it is on there so briefly. I just did it this morning again, no affect on the wash.
